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Thread: The Black Pearl P Sport Hydro 2017

  1. #121
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    Thought so. I was thinking of trying that however I need to find someone that does it at a reasonable price.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  2. #122
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    Think I'm going to use the Pete canopy on mine. I don't have time to invent one right now.

    I tried to leave the sponsons alone Pete. Honest I did.
    Noisy person

  3. #123
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    Yes, I usually do a few models to make it worth it. On this model I increased the tunnel depth by 2.2 mm overall, went to g-10 ride pads, and added 8mm in length to the nose block (lightened bass wood).

  4. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    I tried to leave the sponsons alone Pete. Honest I did.
    Most important words here I tried But did you succeed??

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  5. #125
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    Ready for sealer. I'm thinking about trying something different this time. Maybe sanding sealer and then epoxy primer. Anyone else have any suggestions.

    I also will need to trim the nose differently. The nose in the photo is from the V5.7 boat (thicker leading edge).
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  6. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Ready for sealer. I'm thinking about trying something different this time. Maybe sanding sealer and then epoxy primer. Anyone else have any suggestions.

    I also will need to trim the nose differently. The nose in the photo is from the V5.7 boat (thicker leading edge).
    I really like this stuff Pete. https://www.systemthree.com/products...6ZIaAgR28P8HAQ

    I used it on one of my Nitro boats tubs. It's much thinner than West systems allowing it to soak in a little better. Next time I will try and use there "Turbo Cure" additive to speed up the curing process.

  7. #127
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    Thanks Mike!

  8. #128
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    Some big changes! I completed revamped the boat to make it more 'buildable'. Version 8. The entire frame can now be tilted onto a flat surface to build the front end straight and square. I also added square holes for the spruce sticks under the tapered air bleeds. The angles that used to be sanded onto some of the components have now been implemented into the laser cutting. Unfortunately, this is going to require a complete tear-up of the instructions. Not looking forward to that.
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  9. #129
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    I only have a few days left of my membership at the shop. Back to painting! And more laser cutting!
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  10. #130
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    That's a cool setup. A membership at a shop, kind of like a gym but less cardio and more fun.

    I wonder if anyone is smart or inventive enough to do that in my locality?

    It's a great way to make the most use of a shop that is otherwise not busy etc. Their must be insurance or waivers to deal with?

    Their are shops in my area for rent but that's not the same and it's mainly just for mechanic work.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  11. #131
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    It's called Techshop. Yes, they make you sign waivers. They have laser cutting, mill, lathe, welding, CNC woodworking, vinyl cutting, injection molding, vacuum forming, etc. They even have a 4' x 8' water jet table. The only downside is the cost. I usually buy a month and try to get the most out of it. Only two or three trips this last month....hehe....they got me!

  12. #132
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    Cool. I'll look for something up here.

    There are so many people retiring with shops and less and less people skilled to use all of that. I'd be in my glory at a place like that.

    You've produced a lot of good, great things there!
    Nortavlag Bulc

  13. #133
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    You speak the truth, Ray. I grew up around tools, lathes, mills, etc... A lot of kids these days can only do things if it involves a mouse or game controller!

    OK. Trash night on Tuesday. Probably enough scrap to build (3) boats!
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  14. #134
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    Starting V8 tonight. I used the palm sander and removed all the laser burn marks on the opposite side of the components. Totally unnecessary. Meticulous at all new levels, I know, but it only took a few minutes.
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  15. #135
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    How can I get a Black Pearl?

  16. #136
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    If Pete can't take care of you I could part with my V 5.7 at a very reasonable price. Not that I want to part with it, just a bit over extended with builds.

    I can't afford too many open class 2p boats anymore. Batteries to Canada are insane $$$$
    Nortavlag Bulc

  17. #137
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    V8 is going together nicely. The square holes for the spruce sticks fit like a glove. The entire frame is tilted forward onto a flat surface to build the ride surfaces flat and square.
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  18. #138
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    Still working on the older V5.7 boat. Trying to think of a better way to mount the nose. This new method keeps it away from the bottom of the boat. I think it will work well, but the glue is already separating as seen in the third photo. The seam is definitely going to require some overlap. Right now it's just a butt weld.

    Any other ideas to attach the nose?
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  19. #139
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    ssssO close!20170329_214238.jpg
    Noisy person

  20. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Any other ideas to attach the nose?
    Fill the inside of nose cone area with a thick mix (not runny) of lightweight micro balloons and epoxy, apply release agent to front of boat, attach nose cone and let cure. Micro balloons and epoxy is an old model airplane filler...it is lightweight and strong...and should float. There are other light weight fillers such as fumed mica or milled fiber.

    http://raka.com/fillers.html

    http://www.kitebuilder.com/kitestudio.html



    ...
    Last edited by detox; 04-02-2017 at 09:04 AM.

  21. #141
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    I like that idea. I wonder if two part urethane foam would work as well?

    The nose is eventually going to need a revamp. It was designed to fit the V5.7 version. The latest version of the hull has a much thinner leading edge and the nose no longer fits right, unless you do what I've done above.

    I've thought of making a one piece hatch (a lot of folks have asked for one), but I like the look of the nose extending in the front.

  22. #142
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    Pete
    A One piece hatch please.

    Even just a bubble on it,

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  23. #143
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    Did you see the one Kevin put on his Pete? Took a canopy off of an ML. Think it's a GP310 lid maybe. Looks pretty good on there.

    Something similar could work really well. We could do something like that and mold it easy enough. Then drop a plug out of hydrocal or something for Styrene pulls. A glass option from the mold would be nice though.
    Noisy person

  24. #144
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    Tease... show the whole boat. lol... That must be the limited setup. Trying to get it under 5lbs I take it?




    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    Heading to Florida tomorrow... Niece's wedding.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  25. #145
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    A one piece would be lighter in weight, but use too much tape. A two piece hatch with sealed stern area makes more sense and will use less tape.

  26. #146
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    Ray, its almost done. All the piece were just laying in the boat so that's RTR weight. Pretty close. Don't have a shot assembled yet but all that's left is the stuff tube.20170327_220230.jpg
    Noisy person

  27. #147
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    I'm always impressed with your creative colour schemes. Did you use a stain or paint for the checkers?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  28. #148
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    That boats looks sweet Terry. I personally think the nose looks great!!! . What can I say, I'm partial to it after waiting 4hrs for the CNC to cut it out!!

    As for the hatch, I'll pull whatever you guys want! Just give me the buck and done deal! I could laser cut splines and build a base to give you guys a head start and match the contour/curvature of the top of the boat. Just tell me where to send it.

    I've used that ultracal before. Great stuff. I think I still have a half depot bucket of it.

  29. #149
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    Terry, you are missing the black decal for the air intake.

  30. #150
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    Saw it. Should have stuck with the black windshield too. That chrome is a PIA.

    Ray, the checkers are two shade of Createx. Some sort of cosmic orange and then a blue I had laying around. It's just a misting though. I wanted the wood to show through. Then there are 3 coats of Klasskote clear on top of that. It will look good from a distance but up close it's a turd.
    Noisy person

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