Page 2 of 15 FirstFirst 123412 ... LastLast
Results 31 to 60 of 425

Thread: The Black Pearl P Sport Hydro 2017

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    9,384

    Default

    Nice work. Learning a lot.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,536

    Default

    Oh, come on Ray, you've built plenty of these things!!!!! You ain't learnin nothin!!

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    9,384

    Default

    Well, the stuffing tube needs to be redone in my Whip 40 so, I mess up drivelines once in a while. I've never done that collet thing before.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    9,384

    Default

    If I change it would it be better to go down to 3/16" instead of the 1/4" I used?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,536

    Default

    Yes, I would change it to 3/16. 1/4" is overkill IMO for Q. As you know, I'm a bit of a strange bird when it comes to stuffing tubes. I prefer teflon exclusively, and I run thin silicone oil. This setup is very low friction, very forgiving, and no mess, when done properly.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,536

    Default

    I'm going to stick-build the nose this time. The other boats have all been shaped from a solid pc of basswood. Hopefully this will save some weight.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    mi
    Posts
    344

    Default

    i should start building mine anyday now!
    finally feeling better!

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,536

    Default

    Glad to hear, John! I told your son you were "starting" to get grumpy.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    mi
    Posts
    344

    Default

    yup! the stroke really didn't help-i wasn't very happy and scared of things to come. but now it's on with life.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    2,318

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    I'm going to stick-build the nose this time. The other boats have all been shaped from a solid pc of basswood. Hopefully this will save some weight.
    I see you are making some nice improvements to your hull...lower height, stick built nose. I really like the Aquacraft UL-1 nose cone best. Will your nose contour fit it and the hatch?

    Can you put more taper toward stern for a really streamlined look?

    Your hydro hull is the best on market BTW...great job!

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,536

    Default

    Thanks! I agree, this size/design is tough to beat for full P power. The smaller boats just don't have the stance to maintain stability beyond 60mph in race water. I'm not sure if the UL-1 will fit. I have a UL-1 nose. I'll size it up tomorrow. What do you mean by more taper/streamline?

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    2,318

    Default

    Lower the stern height...is there enough room to shorten the stern height?

    Maybe you can also lengthen the distance tip to stern to 34" exactly... just by adding length to rear of boat behind sponsons.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,536

    Default

    It looks like the UL-1 nose fits a 0.80" round in the front, while the Pearl has a 1.00". Picture on the right is the finished Pearl, picture on the left is the UL-1 nose.

    So, to answer your questions,iIt would take some custom work, but it COULD be done.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Shooter; 02-06-2017 at 12:58 PM. Reason: left and right mixed up!

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,536

    Default

    You would have to use the original UL-1 hatch though. The Pearl hatch has much too large of a diameter to fit the UL-1 nose. The UL-1 nose might look a little small on this boat though, it's quite a bit larger than the UL-1.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,536

    Default

    I finished the steering link today. The servo mount location is designed for a straight shot to the rudder when using speedmaster hardware.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #46
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    9,384

    Default

    Like the steering linkage. On the servo side, where do these parts come from? The rudder ends looks like Dubro no? That is 3mm or larger rod? Threaded both ends I take it? I can get some from China but... lol... If threaded on both ends did you put the servo mount hole in a specific place to utilize a standard length rod?

    I'm getting my building area cleaned up at my apt. Getting the build bug finally. Nice touch putting FG & epoxy over the joints on the transom. You are giving away all of yours and Mike's building secrets man!
    Nortavlag Bulc

  17. #47
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,536

    Default

    Hey Ray. The servo side is just an aluminum horn with a ball cup (easy to take on and off). Yes, rudder end is dubro, drilled out with 2.5mm drill bit. The rod is 3mm, threaded on both sides with a die (no standard length, although that would be a good idea!). BTW, the rod is 'easy to machine' stainless from Mcmaster Carr. The system is very rigid. No flexing/bending/etc...

    BTW - I'm trying something different....a right-mount rudder. One disadvantage is that it doesn't 'pull' the servo to turn. It's also dragging on the same side as the turn fin.

    Regarding the question the other day about streamlining. The transom is just tall enough to accept speedmaster hardware. Any shorter, and the hardware would not mount.

  18. #48
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    9,384

    Default

    There is a way to thin it out ala Terry Davis style. All you need to do is add inner solid blocking where you want to use L aluminum to mount stuff to. Terry had some custom machining done that is beautiful and super strong however the same can be achieved with of the shelf angle aluminum and inner blocking to mount it to, hard to explain... I have a whip kit to try it on but, so many things to do, so little time.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  19. #49
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    2,318

    Default

    I had to file adjustment slot in strut longer so that I could adjust prop less deep. Strut adjusted too deep caused stern to ride too high resulting in my boat's sponsons running too wet. Boat was lots faster afterwards.
    Last edited by detox; 02-06-2017 at 09:55 PM.

  20. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    6,181

    Default

    Haven't even taken Ty's out of the box yet. I'm still carrying the money he owes you around in my coat pocket. haha

    Pete, did you change the sponosons on this version at all? I'll probably build it like mine. I have a tick less vacuum than you do. I'm not sure I ever showed it to you. I like to run a little higher in the water.
    Noisy person

  21. #51
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    3,112

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    Haven't even taken Ty's out of the box yet. I'm still carrying the money he owes you around in my coat pocket. haha

    Pete, did you change the sponosons on this version at all? I'll probably build it like mine. I have a tick less vacuum than you do. I'm not sure I ever showed it to you. I like to run a little higher in the water.
    So you increased the ride height by adding ride pads?

  22. #52
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,536

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    Pete, did you change the sponosons on this version at all? I'll probably build it like mine. I have a tick less vacuum than you do. I'm not sure I ever showed it to you. I like to run a little higher in the water.
    Yes, the sponson bottoms are 5mm wider, so if you want to build them up, you can follow along the side angle without losing too much of a foot print. The only other changes involved the hull thickness (less room inside).

    I saw your mod (a rogue visit to the pond on a Saturday afternoon last year). It worked very well, and seemed to turn better as well. The geometry was too complex to add in the laser cut, but simple to add on!

    BTW - I did end up building up the ride height on the 'Kool' boat. I think we ran it that same Saturday. It ran like a bat outta hell (67mph w/Neu 1515), but was more or less 'flying' on top of the water. It was a little loose for my taste. Dave has that boat now.

  23. #53
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    6,181

    Default

    That and I decreased the pocket that gives that ground effect. Basically I dropped a wedge in there. The boat isn't as sucked down if you know what I mean. I like to run a little looser than Pete does.
    Noisy person

  24. #54
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    6,181

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    BTW - I did end up building up the ride height on the 'Kool' boat. I think we ran it that same Saturday. It ran like a bat outta hell (67mph w/Neu 1515), but was more or less 'flying' on top of the water. It was a little loose for my taste. Dave has that boat now.
    I remember now. Mine is sort of in between your original and the built up version.
    Noisy person

  25. #55
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,536

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    That and I decreased the pocket that gives that ground effect. Basically I dropped a wedge in there. The boat isn't as sucked down if you know what I mean. I like to run a little looser than Pete does.
    Yep, the intention of the tapered bleeds was to lower the pressure under the hull and keep her glued to the water. So far, nobody that I know has blown one of these off, so maybe it's a bit too 'glued'.

    Question - Would it be legal to bleed air out from the top of the deck? I was thinking of a few 1/2"-1" diameter holes on each side that could be plugged simply with tape, and then opened up for rough/windy conditions. You could make the change seconds before launch!

  26. #56
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    3,112

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Question - Would it be legal to bleed air out from the top of the deck? I was thinking of a few 1/2"-1" diameter holes on each side that could be plugged simply with tape, and then opened up for rough/windy conditions. You could make the change seconds before launch!
    Sorry, not allowed...

    https://nebula.wsimg.com/b73ec9ed8c6...&alloworigin=1

    Section J. Rule F.2.g

    "Picklefork hulls shall not have open areas ahead of the forward riding surfaces totaling more than 25% of the total hull length. No other hull vent(s) are allowed"

  27. #57
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,536

    Default

    Phooey!

    Apparently someone already thought of doing that.

  28. #58
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,536

    Default

    The boat was sized to accept 1" foam insulation on each side. This is true for everything from V3.0 and beyond. This one I'm building now is V7.0, which is the same as V6.2 with the addition of the stick built nose.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  29. #59
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,536

    Default

    More progress. The deck is on.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  30. #60
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    9,384

    Default

    Do you glass the side and top joints? Both sides? Thx.
    Nortavlag Bulc

Page 2 of 15 FirstFirst 123412 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •