Pete.
If you have raised the transom by dropping the strut, then you have also changed the angle of the turn fin in relation to the water line. It's got a little bit more positive angle now. That would make a difference.
Pete.
If you have raised the transom by dropping the strut, then you have also changed the angle of the turn fin in relation to the water line. It's got a little bit more positive angle now. That would make a difference.
See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320
Good point. I didn't think of that! Might not be much, but it's certainly directionally correct to keep it down rather than lift it. Thanks!
Hi Larry. It is a custom Y wind 4050, 2400kv. So far, so good, but I only have 6 laps under my belt. I think this is about the max can size you need for P. I've tried larger cans, but they just draw more current and increase voltage ripple with relatively no gain. At least that is what I've experienced.
Congrats to Kevin and Mike. 1st and 2nd place P Sport in Atlanta!!
Not the greatest day at the pond. She’s fast, but blew over several times. Lowered the strut and still blew over. We will have to figure out a way to get the CG more forward and I need to take a closer look at the turn fin angle.
I just about have Minipearl figured out too Pete. The Dragon is pretty mangled. Wont be fixed before Sunday.
Noisy person
You'll have to let me in on your secret. I had a bear with mine yesterday. Does it make sense that the rudder on the right side of the boat could be causing some lift while making small left adjustments, and making it more susceptible to riding up the fin and blowing off?
Pete
I would say YES to that.
Any rudder - with the bottom of it angled to the rear will push the rear of the hull up when it is turned.
If the bottom of the rudder is tipped in toward the hull it will pull the rear of the hull down when turned.
It is also best on any hull to run with the bottom of the rudder angled to the rear (away from the hull)
Now lets look at your problem as if this was a NASCAR ( Jack up the rear left to put more weight on the right front)
A left steering correction -
Left sponson rides up on the turn-fin, Also with your rudder on the Right - it is pushing the right rear of the hull up and the Left sponson Down
Magnifying the problem.
When the rudder is on the Left With a bit of Left correction-(Rear left pushes up) this creates a bit of downforce on the Right Sponson trying to counteract the Right sponson riding up on the turn fin.
In conclusion -
Rudder on the Left, you have a better change of NOT rolling over on a Left Correction.
This is my though on this, others may be different.
Larry
Last edited by TRUCKPULL; 04-27-2017 at 05:05 PM.
Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
Exactly my thoughts, Larry. I will move the rudder to test the theory. She's still on her toes though, even without the left input due to the combination of the faster motor and lighter nose pc (cg moved rearward).
Pete
With the extra speed you now have. A turn fin with a real aggressive hook will add to your problem when doing a left correction.
I have found that a slight correction is Ok, anything more and you better be off of the throttle at the same time.
Larry
Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
I ended up adding 5.2oz to move the Cg forward. Then a gigantic ABC prop with some lift. Really close. Testing was pretty good today. The course is correct again BTW.
Last edited by T.S.Davis; 05-01-2017 at 09:49 AM.
Noisy person
Extending the strut rearward will allow you to run less weight. Adding more weight slightly behind turnfin COG helps prop dig in and go.
Bench Racer and Tester
whiplash 424.jpg
I lowered the strut considerably last time out, and my batts puffed. Granted the batts are 3yrs old, I'm still disappointed and about ready to give up on this new motor.
That first run, however, really got me hooked. More speed and the current/ripple looked very good (see attached)
D - I like that longer strut. I'm going to try that on my next boat for sure. Ball was telling me I should have a flat bottom strut as well. Mine is currently round.
Run strut less deep it (less wet on sponsons) and add weight to prevent blow overs. I balanced my hull slightly tail heavy behind turnfin.
Extended strut. I read sanding the flat 90 degree edge (left hand side only) more round will help boat turn better. I know it looks good on paper, but does it actually work?
Last edited by detox; 05-01-2017 at 04:15 PM.
The Minipearl ran great Saturday. Now if I can get the Dragon cobbled back together. Smock found all the missing bits so I can epoxy it back together. Yard sale of wood chunks.
Noisy person
I need to hear the story about the Dragon. What happened???
The panther just got her first plug job (careful Tom!). NOW she's a race boat.
We're not sure . we think I ran into the square part of Kevins strut when he spun out chipped the leading edge if my tunnel to bits.
Last edited by T.S.Davis; 05-09-2017 at 03:35 PM.
Noisy person
Well Ball's Boat Works actually got some "stuff" done getting ready for Flint. This is one of the early versions of Pete's boats that he built. I finally got a chance to work with a vinyl cutter that a bought a while back.
IMG_1190.JPGIMG_1191.JPG
That is really looking good! I like the black/white lettering over the orange.
Those vinyl machines can be so much fun.
Pete, do you have any nose cones? Mine is ruined on the paper weight boat. Completely forgot about it until this very minute. Mine is a cone of shame.
Noisy person
Update. I did some testing on Saturday after moving the rudder to the left. It no longer rides up the turn fin with small left corrections. Much improved.
Race day was very windy. It blew over once in the back straight on the first heat. I added 6oz of lead at the CG. It ran very well in the next two heats. Took 2nd overall. I still think a light boat is advantageous, because you can add the weight where YOU want it. I'm considering adding an option for motor position to be 1" more forward. This will still allow room for the longer can guys, but provide an option to move things forward for smaller cans. Also, I plan to bring the servo forward if possible.
Thanks for letting us know.
Question. Does prop spray hitting against side of rudder have an affect on hull tracking strait or hull/rudder fighting itself down the straits. Shouldn't prop extend past rudder to prevent?
Mr. Schaffer of ABC props mentioned this to me "What is the effect of prop spray hitting against side of rudder?"
...
I never even thought of that. I would imagine that it does have some effect.
I'm just happy that it's no longer riding up the fin. We were discussing in another thread that the right mounted rudder plants the left sponson when turning left. You would think this is a good thing, but it's just helping it climb up the fin in my case.
The Black Pearl now has a sister ship!!! LSH!!!!!
Very nice! I love those laser cut kits, really makes building them a pleasure! Might have to try one out after the DF Vortex 33 Hydro build
Smaller frame?
Noisy person
Thanks guys!
Yes, it's a smaller frame. 30" boat. I've been chipping away at this project since we talked about it earlier this year. I had to re constrain all the slot dimensions in such a way that they shifted the same way when changing the widths. A real PIA. Then, scaled the slots up, and scaled the entire thing down to LSH size. Result was slots that are still set up for 1/8" ply. So far, so good.
Hi shooter , long time away from your posts, I see your on V6 of this boat . WOW. nice work, Are you still selling the frames ???
ty Darryl
Hey Darryl!! Good to hear from ya. Sent you a PM.
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