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Thread: The Black Pearl P Sport Hydro 2017

  1. #1
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    Default The Black Pearl P Sport Hydro 2017

    Hi everyone. I made some changes to the boat this year, so I figured I’d start a new thread for the latest build. I’m still maintaining the original goal of ‘stability’ and it still has the integrated FE motor mount.

    V6.2 Changes:

    >The overall height has been reduced about 8mm. It’s a bit sleeker looking now and can still package (2) 5000mah batts.

    >The ride pad width has increased by 5mm per side. I’m hoping this will ‘hold up’ the boat more with the heavier, higher capacity batts. In addition, if anyone wants to build up the sponsons to run loose (many have done this), you could follow the outer angle and still have decent ride pad width.

    >Added support under the deck between the last frame pc and the tips. I noticed there was some flex in this area on the last version.

    >The tapered air bleeds will remain unchanged.

    Some photos of the previous version and a link to the previous build and vids below....

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ort-Hydro-2015!
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    Last edited by Shooter; 02-15-2017 at 02:59 PM.

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    BTW – I’m all ears to better build methods, so chime in if you have ideas!

    Here is the frame, tacked together with CA. It’s very easy to build in a ‘twist’. Wax paper with gridlines is about the best way I’ve found to ensure all the angles are correct. A center line alone is not nearly as robust. The frame will be epoxied and glassed later.
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    • File Type: jpg V8.jpg (162.9 KB, 168 views)
    • File Type: jpg 1.jpg (133.7 KB, 126 views)
    • File Type: jpg 2.jpg (132.5 KB, 140 views)
    Last edited by Shooter; 03-25-2017 at 12:15 PM. Reason: Added V8 ISO View

  3. #3
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    I've been using this super long sanding block with coated ceramic 60 or 80 paper (belt sanding belt cut to size and adhered with 3M spray adhesive). This takes material off quickly and makes an easy job of sanding surfaces flat for the sheeting to be applied.
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    Finished frame, minus decking. I added about 1/2oz of west systems into each sponson tip. This makes it possible to easily pierce thru club bouys and other boats.
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    I started sealing at this point. I glassed virtually every seam and corner. I still don’t know if this is absolutely necessary, but all of my boats are still in service, even after major collisions. I’d love to find a better way to do this, so please chime in! Some type of 'spray and done' would be nice!

    I also added the turn fin mount. 1/4" aluminum.
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    I ran the NEU 1515-1Y for years, so it's time to try something new. Here is the NEW custom wound motor for the 2017 season!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    I started sealing at this point. I glassed virtually every seam and corner. I still don’t know if this is absolutely necessary, but all of my boats are still in service, even after major collisions. I’d love to find a better way to do this, so please chime in! Some type of 'spray and done' would be nice!

    I also added the turn fin mount. 1/4" aluminum.
    Do you actually lay cloth into all the corners and seams, or just epoxy or resin.
    Regards,
    Bob

  8. #8
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    Hi Bob. Yes, I lay small pcs of cloth at each corner. I usually cut the cloth into small strips. I use the wet brush to dab the cloth, pick it up, and place it at each corner. Then I wet it out when it is in position. The hull is very strong when complete, but I'm not sure it's necessary.

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    BTW, I use very thin glass. It easily follows the shapes of the contours. Multiple layers creates a very strong bond. I've been doing my stuffing tubes like this (see attached). It looks clean and it's extremely strong. Learned this from Mike.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Hi Bob. Yes, I lay small pcs of cloth at each corner. I usually cut the cloth into small strips. I use the wet brush to dab the cloth, pick it up, and place it at each corner. Then I wet it out when it is in position. The hull is very strong when complete, but I'm not sure it's necessary.
    It matters. If you hit even small stuff wood boats are so rigid that the weak spots will show themselves pretty quick. I'm going to use this method in future.
    Nortavlag Bulc

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    BTW, I use very thin glass. It easily follows the shapes of the contours. Multiple layers creates a very strong bond. I've been doing my stuffing tubes like this (see attached). It looks clean and it's extremely strong. Learned this from Mike.
    Do you do multiple layers at one time or let dry before next etc...?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    I ran the NEU 1515-1Y for years, so it's time to try something new. Here is the NEW custom wound motor for the 2017 season!
    What size can and will you tell us approx KV? I'm not going to get any custom motors thats for sure.

    Do all TP's now come with gold front plate? I've seen many different versions of TP Power motors on Ebay.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    BTW, I use very thin glass. It easily follows the shapes of the contours. Multiple layers creates a very strong bond. I've been doing my stuffing tubes like this (see attached). It looks clean and it's extremely strong. Learned this from Mike.
    Nice job, doesn't even look like there is any cloth. It's got to be very painstaking, a trial to the patience to be sure. My compliments.
    Bob

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    Pete nice building and I'm pretty sure your boats last for long.Thanks for sharing.Gill
    GO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
    www.grsboats.com.br

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    That build looks great.
    Is there a Motor ESC combo for this class that would be competitive while not breaking the bank?
    "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
    Billy Graham

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    T180 or SF220, Castle 1515 1Y.
    Nortavlag Bulc

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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    Do you do multiple layers at one time or let dry before next etc...?
    Multiple layers at one time.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob horowitz View Post
    Nice job, doesn't even look like there is any cloth. It's got to be very painstaking, a trial to the patience to be sure. My compliments.
    Bob
    It's tough to see, but here is a close up.....and yes, it definitely tests your patience! :)

    I've also heard of people doing the outside of the boat once the deck is on, but I've never tried that.
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    Ray, it's a TP 4050, 2400KV. I'm going to try an H5 and I'm hoping to approach 70mph in the straights. This boat is plenty wide and doesn't build much pressure underneath with the tapered bleeds. It was glued to the water in chop during (5) boat heats at 62-65mph last year.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grsboats View Post
    Pete nice building and I'm pretty sure your boats last for long.Thanks for sharing.Gill
    Thanks Gill. My boats don't break the sound barrier like yours do, but they do survive the Wednesday night grind line at our club practices!!

  21. #21
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    Finally back at it. Bending these acid brushes makes it easy to cover the undersides with resin.
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    Finished glassing all the corners and seams. I've been using the brush to dab and pick-up the glass and then position it and wet it out. The bottom of this pc in the photo still needs to be wetted out. For long pcs, I've been dipping my left index finger in epoxy and dabbing one end of the glass, then dabbing the other end with the brush to pick it up and move it into position. That probably sounds trivial, but it took me MANY boats to come up with a good way to transfer and position glass pcs. I move pretty quickly now. Forget the tweezers and everything else!

    BTW, it was OK to cover the motor mount holes with glass (I can drill them out later), but NEVER THE SKULL!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Ray, it's a TP 4050, 2400KV. I'm going to try an H5 and I'm hoping to approach 70mph in the straights. This boat is plenty wide and doesn't build much pressure underneath with the tapered bleeds. It was glued to the water in chop during (5) boat heats at 62-65mph last year.
    Thanks Pete.

    Nice building tips too!

    Since it's so stable, if one was to go very light on motor ESC and batts would it free the hull up?

    Just curious.

    BTW, if you were so inclined to run 6s in this for Q, what motor/kv would you try?
    Nortavlag Bulc

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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    Thanks Pete.

    Nice building tips too!

    Since it's so stable, if one was to go very light on motor ESC and batts would it free the hull up?

    Just curious.

    BTW, if you were so inclined to run 6s in this for Q, what motor/kv would you try?
    Thanks Ray. No doubt that less weight (depending where the CG is of course) would loosen it up. I would have no idea where to start for a Q, probably a 1250KV like we run in our Whips.

  25. #25
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    I have a Scorpion 1470kv 4025 outrunner to tinker with.
    Nortavlag Bulc

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    Now that sounds fun!

  27. #27
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    OK. I had a couple hours last night so I installed the stuffing tube. I pushed it up onto the motor shaft using telescoping brass tubes. I also left a lot of xtra length at either end, so after I made the bend, it left me some freedom to slide it up and down along the motor shaft for adjustment. Cut to length on each side and DONE.

    Also, a good way to check concentricity is to install the flex and leave the collet on the motor shaft without tightening the grub screws. When it spins completely free with no binding, then you know you’re dead nutz and ready to glue.
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    I thought this was a neat idea. I put the strut mount screws in backwards to act as guide pins and provide quick release while adjusting/installing/re-installing the strut (my holes are fairly tight, 1/8” for 6-32 screws, so this works well). The downside of tight fitting fasteners is that it doesn’t leave room for any error, but the upside is consistent alignment and no water in the hull!
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  29. #29
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    Here is what I was talking about earlier regarding glassing the stuffing tube. It’s clean, simple, waterproof, and stronger than any glob of epoxy. If you study Mike Ball’s boats, you can learn a lot! He goes one step further and puts a tube slightly larger for removal. I’m not quite there yet.
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    The top side is complete. I will glass the bottom side later tonight. BTW, I only mixed 0.6grams total of epoxy to do this, and it was still way too much.
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