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Thread: 2017 Build Log - Jet Chopper 30 Hull

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  1. #1
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    Default 2017 Build Log - Jet Chopper 30 Hull

    Hey Gang, been saving up parts and finally got the Jet Chopper 30 hull in from Leo. Excited to do my first hull up build with a CF inlay.

    Specs:
    SSS3674 Brushless 2075kv motor running on 4S
    Turnigy V2 180 Amp esc
    TFL Running Gear (Trim Tabs, Turn Fins, Rudder, Servo Mount)
    Speedmaster Stinger for 3/16 Cable
    Reusing some items from the ProBoat Shockwave 26

    20170111_141603.jpg

    components.jpg

    Speedmaster Stinger.187 a.jpg
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  2. #2
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    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  3. #3
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    First questions are regarding the reinforcement of the seams. I will be doing a CF inlay, but was curious if I should run some CF into the bow and reinforce the seam all the way to the nose? I assume I should do that first, then a little it of Epoxy in the nose, then my 2-part flotation goes in before the final main compartment inlay is completed?

    20170112_105011.jpg

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    Second question, what can I use for filling in the pin holes on the outside of the seam? Epoxy and micro-balloons?

    20170112_104948.jpg

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    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tamelesstgr View Post
    First questions are regarding the reinforcement of the seams. I will be doing a CF inlay, but was curious if I should run some CF into the bow and reinforce the seam all the way to the nose? I assume I should do that first, then a little it of Epoxy in the nose, then my 2-part flotation goes in before the final main compartment inlay is completed?

    20170112_105011.jpg

    20170112_104959.jpg

    Second question, what can I use for filling in the pin holes on the outside of the seam? Epoxy and micro-balloons?

    20170112_104948.jpg

    20170112_104906.jpg
    I use glazing putty(Walmart) to fill any imperfections. As far as the seams I think those are fairly well put together but a spare 2" strip up the nose under the inlay would work well for strengthening. They usually split along the curve up to a couple inches from the nose.
    BTW, they usually split from the deck compressing underwater. How much foam were you planning to use? If you get it to support the deck it would help.
    Last edited by srislash; 01-25-2017 at 07:18 PM.

  5. #5
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    Recieved my motor mount yesterday and it won't fit the 3674 SSS motor with the stock jacket. I think a few relocated holes and I can get it to work. I started sanding the inside of the seam and floor in preparation for the CF inlay. Went with 150 grit paper, but I am going to go coarser. I hope that will help flatten the floor so the inlay looks good when cured and it should give plenty of grip for the epoxy. Cutting out a template for the inlay and I need to get some 1/4" wide masking tape before cutting the CF cloth.

    20170121_222108.jpg
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  6. #6
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    Undecided on if I will use the 2-part expanding foam or pool noodles.
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  7. #7
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    no foam for me. resin in the nose, pool noodles in the voids.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  8. #8
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    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  9. #9
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    Some work on the stringer install and layout. Would like to have the battery tray centered in the hull so I can run (1) 4s pack or (2) 2s packs. Took more sanding than I thought it would to knock down the fiberglass and clean up the seams from the bow to transom. I think I'm ready to do the front seams first though. Then do the floor inlay and wrap that up the sides. Then I'll eopxy in place the transom doubler I cut out of CF sheet.

    20170126_211631.jpg

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    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  10. #10
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    Had some time last night so I went for it on the CF inlay. Using the tape method, it was much easier to keep the fibers from fraying and going all over the place. Read Keith Bradley's tutorial for that! I laid down some epoxy first, then folded the inlay in 1/3rds and positioned it. I'm a little disappointed that I did not get it as straight as I would have liked, but I got up into the seam area on both sides, so that is good. I lot of the inlay will get covered up anyway. I need to finish the front seams and epoxy the nose.

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    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
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  11. #11
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    Looks good now you have a nice fresh Matt to attach mounts/etc to.. Good job!

  12. #12
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    Looks good to me.
    Your build has almost inspired me to drag my hull out &start building it. Although I won't be putting a carbon inlay into it.
    Keep up the good work.

  13. #13
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    Cut up some thin carbon strips and epoxied those slightly overlapping the large inlay forward to the nose. Once that was cured I dropped about 20ml of epoxy in the nose itself and let that cure. Next I set the transom doubler in and epoxied that in place with some BSI mid-cure.

    20170203_224400.jpg

    20170203_223243.jpg

    I've been going back and forth on whether or not I would use transom pickups like on my 32 Deep-V, so I decided that I would try the rudder pickup on this boat and I drilled out a hole for a second pickup inline with the rudder blade. Always liked this design from the ProBoat Shockwave 26 I had. I actually had twin rudder pickups on that hull.

    20170203_230216.jpg

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    20151119_225015.jpg
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  14. #14
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    Can't Decide if I need to build a new motor mount, I am thinking about being able to swap between the AquaCraft 2030kv (3660 Can size) and the SSS 3674. The mount I bought doesn't really work well for either motor, so I guess I answered my own question.

    20170208_195650.jpg
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
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  15. #15
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    Started working on the trim tabs and turn fins. I think I am going to build a flood tube for this hull as well to be able to adjust the stinger up and down based on prop selection.

    20170209_215852.jpg

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    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
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  16. #16
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    hi how do you mark the holes? how do you know the exact position?

  17. #17
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    Slowly progressing, need to work on the following:

    Bend Stuffing Tube and make support
    Give final determination to COG and part placement
    Glue in motor mount and servo mount
    Fabricate battery tray
    Install flotation
    Work on hatch hold down

    20170219_081438.jpg

    20170219_080942.jpg

    20170219_080750.jpg

    20170219_080725.jpg
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
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  18. #18
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    Figuring out the COG I started positioning the motor mount and prepped the surfaces. I used JB Weld smeared on the bottom of the rails and a few drops of CA to tack it in place while the motor is in. I will remove the motor soon and finish applying epoxy on both sides of the mount. I think I will add small strips of CF cloth on the inside of the rails for a little extra security.

    20170303_204904.jpg

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    20170302_214524.jpg
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  19. #19
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    I was struggling deciding how I wanted to mount the batteries, I settled on side by side trays for (2) 2s packs. I also added some slots in the middle of the tray so if I was to run my (1) 4s pack it could straddle the trays and the battery straps could still secure a single large pack.

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    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
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  20. #20
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    Time for some updates. I wanted to go with a removeable flotation, but pool noodles always seemed difficult to cut and fit well in the nose. A guy on Elite RC Boats on Facebook sells this flotation sheet for $25, so I gave it a whirl. Several layers tapered to a point and stuffed in the bow.

    20170303_203715.jpg

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    20170303_203723.jpg

    20170303_203744.jpg

    20170303_203804.jpg
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  21. #21
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    Tedious work cutting CF with a dremel, but it works. Added the standoffs and epoxied the trays to the hull.

    20170311_215342.jpg

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    20170312_145132.jpg

    20170312_150339.jpg
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  22. #22
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    Not quite sure what to do with the warped hatch. Tape won't hold it flush, some said to secure it down to a board with nails over the edges of the hatch and heat the corners up with a hair dryer or heat gun. I do plan on adding M3 hatch screws like I did on my Deep-V, maybe that will be enough to hold everything in place.

    20170321_214617.jpg

    20170321_214621.jpg
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  23. #23
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    I'm getting eager to drop this guy in the water soon, so I decided to put off paint till the warmer months. I slapped on the transom some CF vinyl and then re-installed all the hardware with plumbers putty to seal out any water. I also plumbed the water cooling lines, I'm apprehensive about the amount of water flow that the rudder pickup will deliver based on experience with ProBoat and Aquacraft boats in the family. If I am not satisfied with this TFL rudder pickup I will add another dedicated pickup next to the one I drilled in the rudder arm.

    20170326_171351.jpg

    20170326_171359.jpg

    20170203_230216.jpg
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  24. #24
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    I had to lengthen my temp probe to be able to reach the esc. Then I had to add some shrinkwrap and coat my datalogger with Corrosion X. Few inside shots of the layout, it's amazing how fast a bare hull fills up with wires, straps and cooling lines.

    20170327_174536.jpg

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    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  25. #25
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    As she sits right now, programmed the ESC, I might add a little extra bend in the rudder linkage, not happy with the throw

    20170327_221006.jpg
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  26. #26
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    Epoxied the servo mount in place

    20170317_224605.jpg

    20170317_224608.jpg
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  27. #27
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    Soldering of the flex cable with my crucible

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NZuMTlDdt8

    20170327_173026.jpg
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
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  28. #28
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    Just talking out loud, but why not mount the servo closer to the transom so it could clear the motor mount and sit directly inline with the pushrod?
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  29. #29
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    Wasn't certain if I would be putting the receiver box on that side or not and I went ahead and epoxied it anyway. Lesson learned to line it up better, a simple bend should take care of it.
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  30. #30
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    Worked on the hatch a bit last few days, I epoxied 1/8" aluminum flat stock under the 4 corners then drilled and tapped them for Stainless M3 screws. I bought these nifty flat o-rings and those should seal nicely. Still wondering if I can find some thin membrane to line the hatch opening with. I will be using hatch tape, but would add like to add something between the hatch and hull as ProBoat does.

    20170329_215137.jpg

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    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

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