Pheonix cooling

[T.S.Davis]

I know a number of you have converted the Phoenix ICE controllers and added water cooling.

Would you be willing to share how you added the cooling? I know there are some creative guys doing this. Was curious how you were doing it.

[Fluid]

Today I am using two copper cooling tubes attached to the buss bars on the sides of the controller, on the control board side. These bars need to be cleaned thoroughly with a wire brush as there is a residue on them which can effect heat transfer and tube adherence. I use Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive epoxy to attach the tubes rather than solder, the latter is tricky to do without damaging the ESC. It is vital to get the tube in contact with the bar, I use clothespins while the epoxy cures.

If it is a high-amp draw use I will sometimes solder a few 1000 mF caps between the power wires where they attach to the bars.

You might need a PiStix if you don't use a Spektrum or Futaba controller.
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[longballlumber]

Here is a couple of the ICE Lite that I did...

[longballlumber]

This is 100amp and 200amp Edge Lite...

[Darin Jordan]

Here is how I was doing it.

20151230_172546.jpg 20151230_172557.jpg 20151230_173036.jpg

I now am trying it like Jay T. (and Brian) do it... affix a pair of cooling tubes directly to the bus-bars. I don't think it's necessary to have tubes on both sides... just on the side opposite the wires.

[ray schrauwen]

If you search Ebay they sell battery cooling plates extruded like mine. just cut to suit, less adhesives.

I received a free plate from Doby and have made great use of it doing this XL-2, SF 200 and a SF240.

[T.S.Davis]

I have a few hydra with the green cooling box. I don't trust the green cooling box. Isn't it just a Phoenix in a different case?

[Fluid]

The parts which do the work (not the green aluminum) are the same. You can remove the green metal but there will be a bit of adhesive/thermal grease to clean off the buss bars. I did it and it works.

The firmware is different though and the non-Hydras will need either a PiStix or a radio which will give enough throttle adjustment.


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[kfxguy]

Does this count? Lol















My post didn't help much did it?

[NativePaul]

While I prefer the lighter methods that have been posted already, it is always good to have alternatives and I am sure it will be helpful to some. It looks like it will work well, and aesthetically it is very neat.

[NeverEnuff]

Here is my twist on the subject. I machined some bars out of 1/4" flat stock I had. Then I used Arctic MX-4 for thermal compound with heat shrink around the whole thing. Also, I would like to thank everyone for posting, I got my ideas from Fluid's original post.
tIMG_2349.jpgIMG_2346.jpgIMG_2350.jpgIMG_2351.jpg

[ray schrauwen]

Nice work. I changed out my caps for Rubycons.

[oscarel]

Any one done a before and after to see how much the cooling plates help?

[Fluid]

A "Lite" will burn up without cooling - saw a friend run his without a cooling line hooked up - smoked it. Another said that soldering the cooling tubes directly to the buss bars lowered his ESC temps by ~20 degrees compared to using the cooled aluminum extensions wrapped around the bars.



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[T.S.Davis]

Holy crap. Can you do that without killing the thing Jay?

I have an idea in my head that includes brass plates and some soldering. Soldering tube the the buss blocks sounds risky.

[T.S.Davis]

One last thing. Are you guys cooling the fets too or just the buss bars?

[ray schrauwen]

Mine cover both on the majority

[Fluid]

Terry it is a mess unless you are set up right, I'm not. Actually, the thermally conductive epoxy may work even better as its thermal conductivity value is close to (or better than?) solder....and no risk of melting anything. Regardless, the epoxy works for me.

The FETs don't need direct cooling - remember the Schultze 40-160? Only the buss bars (copper) were cooled. Not that it wouldn't help, but why if it works without the extra complexity?



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[Jamey]

Holy crap. Can you do that without killing the thing Jay?

I have an idea in my head that includes brass plates and some soldering. Soldering tube the the buss blocks sounds risky.

I am sure brass would likely work but keep in mind aluminum and especially copper have a much higher thermal conductivity factor.

[JayB]

Hey guys, what's the OD of the copper tubing are you using please? Thanks.

Went with 3/16"...

[longballlumber]

Here is a Hydra Ice 240 that I took out of the stock clam shell cooling set up and converted to a more efficient set up. Next time I am going to try copper from K&S. I am really happy with out this one turned out. Soldering the brass components wasn't as tough as I expected.

[Mike Caruso]

This Thead should be added to the ESC section great info for a guy trying on his own. Castle Lite 130 Etti cooling plate cut up just for the sides works great on 3s

EVO CASTLE LITE END VIEW WITH COOLING.jpg 2015 candlewick pictures 168.jpg

[T.S.Davis]

2 of the speedo I bought already died. The one I dissembled got 3 runs on it maybe. The second was raced in Atlanta on a conservative setup. Took it out of the boat to work on the boat. Put back in the boat..............no sign of life.

Sucks.

[kfxguy]

2 of the speedo I bought already died. The one I dissembled got 3 runs on it maybe. The second was raced in Atlanta on a conservative setup. Took it out of the boat to work on the boat. Put back in the boat..............no sign of life.

Sucks.

Man you got some bad juujuu with escs lol. We need to call upon a witch to release you from the bad spell!

[T.S.Davis]

You have no idea.

You should have seen the MGM melt down in Phoenix. Glorious.

[ray schrauwen]

Yours or someone else?

[T.S.Davis]

Mine.

[TRUCKPULL]

What motor was that MGM connected to.
I have heard that they don't play nice with some motors.

Larry

[robstercraws]

Terry what motor were you using when the MGM esc fried?

[StevenBryant]

What motor was that MGM connected to.
I have heard that they don't play nice with some motors.

Larry

MGM and Nue motors can be problematic, I used a 28026 MGM and a NUE 1527 and I had bad problems, luckily the motor and the esc are both fine


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