Project VooDoo mono build

[golfito]

I look excellent!
I would have liked to apply his method before doing mine. But for the next it will be !. I learned what not to do on my boat ... haha. Use the twill and detach or deform more than the plain.
Plain of 96grs would be ideal for me, but it is not achieved in my country.

http://www.ebay.es/itm/112222248013?rmvSB=true
It's the tape you use. It is thin and leave 2mm of that tape as a frame. In the places that I could not remove it inside the hull almost does not appreciate.

[fweasel]

What kind of epoxy are your using to soak into the carbon cloth?

[kfxguy]

What kind of epoxy are your using to soak into the carbon cloth?

West system 105 and 207. It took almost three pumps of it but I soaked up about a pump of it back into my foam roller. It was noticeably thinner with it warmed up a bit.

[kfxguy]

I look excellent!
I would have liked to apply his method before doing mine. But for the next it will be !. I learned what not to do on my boat ... haha. Use the twill and detach or deform more than the plain.
Plain of 96grs would be ideal for me, but it is not achieved in my country.

http://www.ebay.es/itm/112222248013?rmvSB=true
It's the tape you use. It is thin and leave 2mm of that tape as a frame. In the places that I could not remove it inside the hull almost does not appreciate.

Thanks. That's not the tape I use. It's a tape similar to this. It may be the Tamiya version I bought last time.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-Maski...oAAOSwoydWr5E1

[kfxguy]

We went out of town for the weekend but I had a little time this evening so I figured I'd try to mess with it some. I'm extremely happy with the inlay btw, it's very stiff now.

So I decided it's time to start drilling holes and getting it all mocked up. No matter how hard I tried, the gel coat still chipped. I had tape over it. I went up drill bit by drill bit. Didn't mattter. O well I can repair it.



Here i mixed up a little epoxy and dyed it white. I've already shaved it even once the epoxy started to harden.






I'm doing a flooded tube of course because I'm going to run a strut so I made this fitting real quick in my lathe. Same thing as the other kb34's but takes me much less Time now because I came use the machine more efficiently.





And it goes in the flooded tube like this. Once I get the othe piece cut I'll assemble it to show you how it goes together.

[kfxguy]

Nothing special. Just tacked the motor in. This was a process and I figure it's the hardest part and behind me now. It's hard to get up in the hull and measure for the motors centerline, and be exact. I ended up using a flexible tape measure. I used to have a laser that shot a straight line but I can't find it now.








Now it's time for me to quit being cheap and bite the bullet and order my dang rudder. I was trying to wait till ose got more prop stock in but I can't wait anymore

[boredom.is.me]

Looking good so far.

For gelcoat, what if you used a razor blade and scored the border of the hole before drilling?

[kfxguy]

Looking good so far.

For gelcoat, what if you used a razor blade and scored the border of the hole before drilling?

Not a bad idea. Never thought of that, I'll have to try it next time....thx for the idea! Anyone else have some ideas? Masking tape works sometimes but obviously not all the time.

[kfxguy]

Btw, just ordered the last piece of the puzzle, the speedmaster rudder from ose. Should get here by the weekend I can still mount the strut, trim tabs and turn fins tho. What I like about this hull is it has a thick pice of wood skinned in carbon on the transom so Allen head wood screws are sufficient so I don't see any ugly screws and nuts sticking through the transom. I guess my preference for a cleaner look.

[fweasel]

When I drill wood cabinetry for wire and cable access, we use hole saws with arbor pilot bits and score the surface on each side with a few, slow revolutions before hogging out the main plug. If you find a hole saw in the diameter you need for the wet well, you could drill in from the outside, just enough to score the gel coat, then continue on using your step bit which would likely create a cleaner edge on the inside of the boat. The higher the tooth count on the hole saw the better for detail work. Possibly over complicating the process, but I see the hole saw as a more uniform way to create the score line than free handing it with a blade, and deeper than using just a scribe point.

[kfxguy]

I was going to holesaw it but the smallest one I had was 3/4" and I needed a tad smaller

[kfxguy]

Well I got the next hardest part out the way, epoxying in the motor mount. Came out quite nice. This puppy is 3mm plate, I copied the original 2mm side plates and had Monojeff cut them out for me. I learned my lesson with another boat I crashed at 100mph and broke the mount. It should go quickly now besides paint, which I haven't decided on yet.

[golfito]

: Thumbup1:
Excelente!

[Lone-Wolf]

Fantastic, super clean looking, nice to see you don't have any dog hair in it like everything I epoxy.

[rearwheelin]

Right on , good luck !! Ur build rock 👍

[rearwheelin]

Fantastic, super clean looking, nice to see you don't have any dog hair in it like everything I epoxy.

IMG_4154.jpg

[rearwheelin]

I want that hull for my fun runner ! I don't want it as fast as ur's but it needs to be fast ✊

[kfxguy]

I want that hull for my fun runner ! I don't want it as fast as ur's but it needs to be fast ✊

I'm hoping to have it work well as a "dual purpose" boat. I want a good sport runner and then a fast straight lin boat. So 4s and 6s parallel is what's planned for long run times.



Moving right along. I soldered the 8mm bullets on the motor. I added a carbon wrap (sorry, as usual...it just looks so good!) to the cooling can. I'm going to show you guys my secret on how I do it. I've been told by a few people that they couldn't get there's to stay on and not peel up. My method has never failed me. So here it is.

First I use .010 thick carbon. Basically just one thin layer of cloth. Sometimes I'll lay it up on my own or I'll buy it. Depends on my mood. I've been making my own lately to say money but you can find super thing carbon on eBay. It's very flexible. I cut it to size. The way I get the length perfect is I wrap a piece of masking take around it and slice thru it where it overlaps. Then the length of the tape is perfect. Then cut your carbon to length. Scuff up the backside of the carbon. I then add a thin thin layer of 5 minute epoxy. When I say thin, I mean it. You don't want it oozing out. Have three long wire ties ready. Wrap the carbon around the cooler, join in the middle at the bottom side that you won't see when it's in the boat. Strap it tightly in there places. Then put two little strips of epoxy between the wire ties. Let dry. Cut straps off. Then add epoxy in the area the ties were in. Done.

[kfxguy]

put the motor back in for more mockup. Started epoxying the wet well tube. I use a .187 rod and brass tubing to take up the slack to line it up while the epoxy dries.

[TheShaddix]

Looks very clean as usual. Do you remove the masking tape before or after the epoxy cures on the motor mount?

[kfxguy]

Looks very clean as usual. Do you remove the masking tape before or after the epoxy cures on the motor mount?

Thx. I remove the tape at one hour on the jb weld. When I'm using 5 minute (man this minute stuff I've been using for some things is extremely strong and lays beautifully) stuff I wait just till it's not quite runny anymore, maybe 2-3 minutes and peel the tape. That's what I use to make the jb weld black. This stuff mixed with some black dye comes out smooth and flawless.


Got some more done tonight. I epoxied the tabs on the battery trays that hold it up a little to create enough of a gap to put battery straps. I also finished my wet well. I might be stuck right now, my rudder didn't make it and I can't mount the servo till I mount the rudder.
I also decided to dress up the sf300 full size esc. I laminated the removable cover with real carbon.
I'm going to cut some decals for it too. Plain carbon is....too plain.











Pure sexiness! This one will have hidden wires and cooling lines too btw. I think I'm going to make the servo mount plate removable too, that will help me hide the wires under it.

[kfxguy]

Got a little done today. I decided because my rudder didn't make it, why not finish (or attempt to) wiring the esc up and making a cap bank. I tried something different this time. I wanted a compact cap bank. I skipped the circuit board and glued the caps together then connected then with brass (I know copper would have been better but that's all I had) bar. Drilled holes through the bars and then side the cap legs through. Then routed the wires as nearly as you can with swordfishes screwed up wiring layout (ugh!!! I hate it!). Then epoxy sealed them.

[kfxguy]

Next i needed to make the support for my wet well. Made a cardboard template then transferred it to carbon.




It fit so perfectly there was no slack.

Epoxy in



Done

[kfxguy]

Wiring and thingsto do with wiring is one of my unfavorite parts, so I'm trying to sneak stuff in here and there so it don't pile up at the end. I did this on the last couple of these boats I built and it works nicely. I use these little plastic clamps to hold the wires and cooling line in place along the side of the boat out of sight. I use some thumb screws to secure them shut and for easy access.

[srislash]

Nice work Travis. I like the clamp plan.

[Lone-Wolf]

Cap bank looks awesome and I too like the clamps alot, so neat and tidy...and well thought out.

[kfxguy]

Thanks fellas. This is an accumulation of all of my builds and experience. I have something else to show you guys this evening, simple but very convenient when making strut adjustments. Gotta hit the hardware store when I get off work and I'll post it up. Stay tuned.

[rearwheelin]

Wiring and thingsto do with wiring is one of my unfavorite parts, so I'm trying to sneak stuff in here and there so it don't pile up at the end. I did this on the last couple of these boats I built and it works nicely. I use these little plastic clamps to hold the wires and cooling line in place along the side of the boat out of sight. I use some thumb screws to secure them shut and for easy access.

I use these type , I get them in a bag of 100 . They have a 3m backing and stick great, just run a small zip tie through it and around the wires .IMG_8373.jpg

[kfxguy]

I use these type , I get them in a bag of 100 . They have a 3m backing and stick great, just run a small zip tie through it and around the wires .IMG_8373.jpg

I've seen those. Not sure how much I trust double stick especially if it get a little wet, I use silicon to hold them....I know sooner or later water will find its way in there lol

[rearwheelin]

I've seen those. Not sure how much I trust double stick especially if it get a little wet.

They are fine wet ! Our mechanic here at work uses them to hold wire in place on trailer lights .