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Thread: Speedo sadness

  1. #31
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    Yep, that's why I don't encourage anybody to go 2s. It's a bit counter intuitive. You're brain thinks 2 cells is cheaper than 4 cell but to race........you need 2s2p so 4 cells. You need a sick motor. You need a bunch of amps. Amps are the devil.

    Darins one cell boat draws approximately one p'scillion amps. That's p'scillion. Not b'scillion. Huge difference.
    Noisy person

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    Yep, that's why I don't encourage anybody to go 2s. It's a bit counter intuitive. You're brain thinks 2 cells is cheaper than 4 cell but to race........you need 2s2p so 4 cells. You need a sick motor. You need a bunch of amps. Amps are the devil.

    Darins one cell boat draws approximately one p'scillion amps. That's p'scillion. Not b'scillion. Huge difference.
    That almost says to me that the "p" class should be assessed. If the p class sized boats were allowed to run 6s they would only go so fast before being uncontrollable in race water. So amps would be down and you could probably get away with a single set of 3s packs, instead of 2 x 4s in parallel. Just thinking out loud so please dont beat me to badly.
    Steven Vaccaro

    Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!

  3. #33
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    One thing at a time. We're experimenting with spec right now.

    IMPBA minimums only exist in sport hydro. That might actually make sense. Only a max dim for cat, mono, hydro, and tunnel. A 26" tunnel boat with 10s in it is legal but it runs in T. Or maybe the submarine class.

    IMO though, a Delta 33 with a pair of 3s packs is not going to handle the water made by a Delta 45mkII with 6s2p and a 2215 in it. Like ocean racing by the third lap. I ran a 36" mono in T on 8s with the big boys. It was a disaster.
    Noisy person

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    One thing at a time. We're experimenting with spec right now.

    IMPBA minimums only exist in sport hydro. That might actually make sense. Only a max dim for cat, mono, hydro, and tunnel. A 26" tunnel boat with 10s in it is legal but it runs in T. Or maybe the submarine class.

    IMO though, a Delta 33 with a pair of 3s packs is not going to handle the water made by a Delta 45mkII with 6s2p and a 2215 in it. Like ocean racing by the third lap. I ran a 36" mono in T on 8s with the big boys. It was a disaster.
    I know you dont care about namba any longer, but if they kept the NAMBA electric sizes as they are today but opened the voltage I think it would balance out. there is only so fast a 33" boat can go before it spends more time upside down than rightside up.

    Spec is going to be interesting.

    BTW I included a nice sticker sheet for you to use on your boats. ;-)
    Steven Vaccaro

    Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!

  5. #35
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    NAMBA? Yeah, I've heard of it.

    FYI Tyler intends to make his boats all OSE. Like a theme. Right down to we're ordering some paint matched with you stickers. I'll send you pics if we ever get any done. Too many projects.

    Oh and I sold that Delta I was going to return. Hope you didn't actually need it.
    Noisy person

  6. #36
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    Like I said, I set my oval boats to go fast enough to win, but not to go so fast that I flip easily or burn. Are there faster boats in the heat? Often, but most of them don't finish. Flip, crash, or burn. Gotta finish to win.

    Most of my oval boats will run WOT through the corners - traffic permitting. Tune them that way. We all know that peddling an ESC or even worse running mostly part throttle will toast an ESC quickly in a high power setup. So why do it?

    That may be why I have better luck with Castles - ICE, not old Hydras. The latter sucked, mostly firmware but parts too. Several club members run standard ICE aircraft controllers with just a fan in P and Q sport hydros, they last until they get wet. Not many ESCs can handle much water, even the "waterproof" ones.

    Part of the secret is to build a dry boat, another problem so many seem to have. How many ESCs blow due to getting wet? I see and hear of way too many FE boats with water in them. Often the owner just says "that's normal, my boat always has water in it." Then they complain of receivers, servos and controllers not working. If they would learn to master the basics first before spending pikes 'o cash on over-the-top setups and replacement electronics they would have a better boating experience.

    A reliable boat is a lot more fun than one which keeps giving trouble. But I guess it's sexier to buy speed setups that some guy on YouTube says he used than it is to learn to set up a boat right in the first place. Why do some experienced racers seem to be faster with less powerful setups? Food for thought...


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  7. #37
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    Mar 2009
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    OH
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    Default Speedo sadness

    2 to 10s. I've run it all on the edge. P and Q easy to over power but I rarely get to put all the amps I can to them. So they run fairly Cool and fast. S-T on the other hand will go as fast as I can put the power down. My limit on my open rigger is the controller. I'm pulling a lot of amps to go 85 in heat trim. My open mono and cat are huge. The limit is 60" and 24 pounds. My open cat goes 70+ and sucks about 240 amps in oval trim. I have a 60" mono that can go 60 all day but again 240 amps to do it. So yes we can blow big set ups too. I have the blown 300 amp Schulze and swordfish controllers to prove it. POOF! I hate this hobby. :)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #38
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    Dec 2013
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    How are u making your castle light controllers work on an airtronics m12??

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    Why do some experienced racers seem to be faster with less powerful setups? Food for thought...
    I get questions all that time like "Is that a Seaking 180 in there? How the hell is that working? That's just not possible."

    Based on my pile of crap it clearly isn't working. Works for a while then bzzzzt fr'shizzle. Ode de phenolic resin. Is it weird to rub burnt speedos on your skin? Seems like it is.
    Noisy person

  10. #40
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    Sep 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    Like I said, I set my oval boats to go fast enough to win, but not to go so fast that I flip easily or burn. Are there faster boats in the heat? Often, but most of them don't finish. Flip, crash, or burn. Gotta finish to win.

    Most of my oval boats will run WOT through the corners - traffic permitting. Tune them that way. We all know that peddling an ESC or even worse running mostly part throttle will toast an ESC quickly in a high power setup. So why do it?

    That may be why I have better luck with Castles - ICE, not old Hydras. The latter sucked, mostly firmware but parts too. Several club members run standard ICE aircraft controllers with just a fan in P and Q sport hydros, they last until they get wet. Not many ESCs can handle much water, even the "waterproof" ones.

    Part of the secret is to build a dry boat, another problem so many seem to have. How many ESCs blow due to getting wet? I see and hear of way too many FE boats with water in them. Often the owner just says "that's normal, my boat always has water in it." Then they complain of receivers, servos and controllers not working. If they would learn to master the basics first before spending pikes 'o cash on over-the-top setups and replacement electronics they would have a better boating experience.

    A reliable boat is a lot more fun than one which keeps giving trouble. But I guess it's sexier to buy speed setups that some guy on YouTube says he used than it is to learn to set up a boat right in the first place. Why do some experienced racers seem to be faster with less powerful setups? Food for thought...


    .
    Jay has learned stuff, Jay is smart, Be like Jay.

    I do have to agree with Jay's way here in setting up oval boats. Being reliable and finishing beats max speed. I pretty much run against gassers all the time and my 6s boats are often winning. The reliability of FE over gas is good if you are setup well. And it is not just the boat, driving well makes a huge difference. I was surprised the other day at how much slower my Q hydro wasn't against gas riggers and sport hydros. I did get beat but only just at the line in one heat. Although I do like to hog lane one!
    I generally set my boats up so they run as fast as possible, staying stable and controllable in race water, at full throttle. As I predominantly run 1P as that is what our class rules allow, it means doing that on 4000mah. Generally though the only time I don't finish a race is because I am upside down (except when a lead melts off a connector or 2 out of 3 2s packs didn't get charged and went back in the boat!)
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
    BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    AZ
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    How are u making your castle light controllers work on an airtronics m12??
    Were you directing this at me? Frankly I've only seen one Airtronics wheel radio running an FE boat in the past five years. The Castles aircraft ESCs work with Spektrum and apparently Futaba; I assume a PiStix would let it work with an Airtronics wheel transmitter.


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