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Thread: Huge difference between esc temps and motor temps

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mxkid261 View Post
    I would ditch those XT90 connectors those have like 4.5mm bullets. 6.5 castle connectors would be a much better option
    This is what I use. If I need to run 2p I run a T with two 6.5's into one 8mm.

    Like theseDSCN1425[1].jpg

    if you want a set I can send you these, I made a few of them

  2. #32
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    Could the connectors be causing the esc heat issues?

  3. #33
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    Any pics or links to these castle connectors?

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by RuntheraceAMC View Post
    Any pics or links to these castle connectors?
    Look at my above post, I have edited

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    I am suspect of the XT90 plug as well as the cooling lines. I looked the XT's up and cant find the size of bullit. But the dimensions of the housing that I found would not allow big enough connectors for this. How can one expect to give enough power to warrent 8mm connectors at the motor when the battery connector is only 5mm? If it is even that. Neat connector though with the anti spark but you should have 8mm there too. Anti spark is not really necessary for 6s.
    I just looked it up and they are indeed only 4.5mm bullets in the xt90 connector which is way to small for the OP's setup. 5.5mm bullets at minimum, 6.5 castle connectors would be a better. I too think all those water lines/fittings are unnecessary

  6. #36
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    I run the 6.5's on all my batteries. And I never have had an issue even on this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2LykA7azQA

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  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by RuntheraceAMC View Post
    Could the connectors be causing the esc heat issues?
    OH YEAH, it is a bottleneck. The motor wants the energy and pulls on the ESC for power, ESC cant get it threw the XT so it heats up trying

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    This is what I use. If I need to run 2p I run a T with two 6.5's into one 8mm.

    Like theseDSCN1425[1].jpg

    if you want a set I can send you these, I made a few of them
    I would love to grab those off of you. What do I owe you?

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by RuntheraceAMC View Post
    I would love to grab those off of you. What do I owe you?
    How about $20 shipped, I am off to the PO today so PM me your address

  11. #41
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    Soooo I just went to run the boat and my motor was making the most God awful sound. Took it to my LHS and was advised that it's probably a loose magnet. I was also advised that repairing these magnets is usually unsuccessful.

    So I think I am ordering a new motor. Was thinking of dropping the kv so I can run 8s. My esc is ratites up to 14s. The 1300kv leopard was going to be my pick. High enough kv that 6s should still be fast but low enough to run 8s. Thoughts?

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by RuntheraceAMC View Post
    Thoughts?
    Now that the motor is coming out, you can replumb your cooling lines.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  13. #43
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    Lol. True.

    Any thoughts on motor choice?

  14. #44
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    PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation. ESCs switch (modulate) the full battery voltage on and off for various width of pulses extremely fast to simulate a lower voltage, in order to control the speed. It is actually AC, but the switching so fast that it is approximates DC. The standard frequency for the switching is 8mhz, but some motors can still see the fluctuations and are not happy, many ESCs can be programmed to ramp up the speed of the switching to 16mhz or 32mhz for a much smoother approximation of DC in order to keep these motors happy. The FETs that chop up the DC in ESCs have switching losses as well as resistance, and doubling the switching rate doubles the heat generated by those switching losses. If you set your ESCs to higher than 8mhz with most motors you are needlessly generating heat.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  15. #45
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    And on that note, default on Etti's is 16mhz

  16. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by RuntheraceAMC View Post
    Soooo I just went to run the boat and my motor was making the most God awful sound. Took it to my LHS and was advised that it's probably a loose magnet. I was also advised that repairing these magnets is usually unsuccessful.

    So I think I am ordering a new motor. Was thinking of dropping the kv so I can run 8s. My esc is ratites up to 14s. The 1300kv leopard was going to be my pick. High enough kv that 6s should still be fast but low enough to run 8s. Thoughts?
    Ok let's start simple before throwing money at it, is the flex cable greased?

  17. #47
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    Always. I ran it out of the hull. It quivers and shakes. Probably only doing a few hundred rpms

  18. #48
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    So the bad noise is definitely the motor? If so ok, stay off Leopard and go to TP. Far superior.

  19. #49
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    I don't even know where to start with TP. I was running a 4092 1730k on 6s. Hoping to find a motor that will do 50-55 on 6s and high 60s on 8s

    What motor and kv should I look at. Will my 40mm engine mount need replaced?

  20. #50
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    I am pretty sure physically they are same size. You are in the right ball park KV wise,1300-1400 for your wants.
    I just measured one here and have 39.5'ish mm so that is not much difference. You could put a piece of paper around the can where the tail ring hold the motor


    BTW stuff is in the mail system

  21. #51
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    Thanks man. I appreciate it

    So which to should I go with? Diameter and length

  22. #52
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    I would go with the 4260 here: http://www.tppower.com/sort.asp?class_id=4&news=115

    Either a 4Y or the 7D. That is on the TP site though not the US one.

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    I don't understand what I am doing wrong. I thought my 4092 was dead. So I threw my 4074 back in there and went to the lake. 5s for 2:30. Temps were 120. 6s for 2 mins temps were 125 so I propped down from a 648 to a 545 and it did two passes, then the motor made the same shaky rough running sound as it did on the 4092. I tried to limp it in but it died. Smoke all in side. Motor and esc Temps were 190 degrees!!! What the heck just happened. My esc is dead. I'm convinced my 4092 is fine and it was the esc all along. There goes $250. Now what. Drop another $250 when I have no idea what caused the problem. I am at my wits end!

  25. #55
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    Well I did not see that coming, besides motor what did you change anything?

  26. #56
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    Nothing. Even proper down. In the past I had even used a Prather 235 and Prather 240 on the 4092

    It was like something changed with the esc to cause it to run poorly with the motor and it just burnt up. How do you go from 125 degrees to 190 in two passes

  27. #57
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    No water flow

    Were you able to see any come out the outlets?

  28. #58
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    I didn't check. But I've never had an issue

  29. #59
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    The past is the past but now I have no idea what esc to get

  30. #60
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    DID you have any water within the hull? I really didn't expect you to throw another motor in.

    Can you blow thru the cooling lines? This time of year the water can get leaves and such in it, it has happened to me. I lost a Lehner and Swordy that time.

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