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Thread: Need Help with newest 180A SeaKings

  1. #31
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    I hate sending stuff back and getting the same old "we see that it is within our specs" reply.

    I'm tempted to remove the new cap bank to see what that does. I thought that caps were suppose to be on the power wires, but these go into the potted area. I know that should not affect it, but the old ones without these caps don't have this problem.

  2. #32
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    Ya that shouldn't make a difference and if you do that you will definitely void any warranty it may have

  3. #33
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    One of mine on a twin mono is doing the same thing. I have the programming car and have tried every option. Does anyone know what size the bullet connectors are on the V3. I broke one and it needs to be replaced

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by centralrcmystic View Post
    One of mine on a twin mono is doing the same thing. I have the programming car and have tried every option. Does anyone know what size the bullet connectors are on the V3. I broke one and it needs to be replaced
    Most come with 6mm bullets.I also have the same problem with the three of mine. After a lot of R&D I put a 240 esc with data logger and found the only thing going on crazy was was the amp draw I had which was about 229 amps. I found that they were very sensitive to prop size. I bought all these 180 esc's in the last year with one being a tunigy.

  5. #35
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    So has anyone who is having problems actually contacted Hobbywing North America's tech support? You can email or even text message Charlie@hobbywing.com and you should get a quick response. If they did infact have a bad batch of ESC's the only way they're going to know there are issues is if people are informing them about it. When the controller actually shuts down, has anyone left it alone and gone out to the boat to see what the LED status on the ESC is? For those having issues, what radio system are you using?

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mxkid261 View Post
    So has anyone who is having problems actually contacted Hobbywing North America's tech support? You can email or even text message Charlie@hobbywing.com and you should get a quick response. If they did infact have a bad batch of ESC's the only way they're going to know there are issues is if people are informing them about it. When the controller actually shuts down, has anyone left it alone and gone out to the boat to see what the LED status on the ESC is? For those having issues, what radio system are you using?
    Haven't brought it in yet right after it quit. Good idea. Controllers are Traxxas,Tactic and Spectrum. Just sent an email to Charlie as you suggested. Thanks Ralph

  7. #37
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    Ya I would try to run it as close to shore as you can, get it to act up and immediately try to get it in and see what the LED is doing.

  8. #38
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    Mine is also doing it with no LED flashing. LVC is off, auto or set to 6s, different throttle settings same issue. Quick on/off on throttle it keeps running. Have e-mailed Charlie an after a few thinks he had me try no change.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by modvp55 View Post
    Mine is also doing it with no LED flashing. LVC is off, auto or set to 6s, different throttle settings same issue. Quick on/off on throttle it keeps running. Have e-mailed Charlie an after a few thinks he had me try no change.
    Charlie had said their new digital box will update the 180 esc. I haven't tried that yet. So I know for sure that to big of prop or to much drag being motor alignment or flex cable causing the amps to be to much will cause it to shut down momentarily. The castle 240 Hydra in the same boat did not cut off on me.

  10. #40
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    So I got one of the multifunction program boxes, and it will not go past "connecting ESC"

  11. #41
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    Which one of the program boxes did you get?

  12. #42
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  13. #43
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    Hello!
    I have the previous LCD programmer card and I did not get it to work. Try changing the soft several times and it did not work.

    The card that you indicate in your description indicates that it works with the seaking pro line only.
    Then you need the LED card for seaking boat esc.

    Part Number

    30501003

    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...-seaking-pcard


    Hobbywing Multifunction LCD Professional Program Box
    Overview

    This multifunction program box is for programming HobbyWing brushless ESCs. Its friendly LCD interface makes ESC programming easy and quick. With a PC, you can upgrade ESC firmware and further adjust ESC parameters online. Besides, it’s compact, portable and very applicable for field use.

    This multifunction LCD program box is applicable for the following HOBBYWING products:

    Platinum series of brushless aircraft ESCs,
    XeRun series & EzRun series of brushless car ESCs,
    Seaking Pro series of brushless boat ESCs

    https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/pages/download

    For SEAKING ESC

    New firmware “SK-3.1.16” for Seaking PRO 160A ESCs is released, which improves the communication capability and strengthens the voltage protection function (of the ESCs) for meeting the racing requirements.
    New firmware “SK-3.1.05” for Seaking PRO 120A ESCs is released, which improves the communication capability and strengths the voltage protection function (of the ESCs), for meeting the racing


    Unless you find any updates that you can load on the LCD card and work with the Seaking. At the time you can not find the appropriate update. Buy the LED.

    Saludos!

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by donhuff View Post
    So I got one of the multifunction program boxes, and it will not go past "connecting ESC"
    donhuff, Try emailing Charlie at [Charlie@hobbywing.com] and tell him what is going on. I never got around to getting the LCD box he said would work I just happen to run across a Hydra Ice 240 and it cured my problems.

  15. #45
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    golfito,

    I have the $8.95 LED card, and it has always worked with my older 180a's. But It does not have any effect on these new ones. I don't mean to say that it has no effect, but rather that it does not fix the problem. If it is truly changing the setting, then turning the LVC off, should make the ESCs work. But they do not.

  16. #46
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    Flash,

    I have sent an email to charlie, now waiting for a return.

  17. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by donhuff View Post
    Flash,

    I have sent an email to charlie, now waiting for a return.
    You have had plenty of time to find the fix Mr. Huff. I'm a little disappointed in you honestly.
    If this had been one of those rotating mass things, the issue would have been solved long ago.
    Please hurry I have Peter's mono just about ready to test and he has the newer control.
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  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by donhuff View Post
    Flash,

    I have sent an email to charlie, now waiting for a return.
    Keep us posted. I got a 180 acting up too.

  19. #49
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    Doug,

    If it had been a carburetor, I would be able to SEE what was wrong! But with this electric BS, I have to wait for something to come down out of the clouds, and then "HOPE" that it works!

    And as you know, I've been busy lately trying to get the Q boat ready. I got the stinger, stuffing tube, motor mount/rails all glued in and mounted today. I hope to attach the top deck to the hull tomorrow, and then get the rest of the hardware mounted. I'm trying to get it all mounted solid so we can do some 80-90-??? mph aero-aqua-batics with it, and not damage the hull to the point that we have to start over. So I glued the rails in before joining the hull and deck, lots easier to work on that way. I have a red and a white top ready, and have the bottoms to go with them, gotta look after my record setting buddies. I just want to try the yellow one first to make sure it floats!


    Flash, I'll be sure to post what I find out. I still think it's gonna be something I'm doing wrong or something that I'm not doing. Charlie got back to me around 12:00 today, but I was in the shop and did not get back to him before late evening. He wants a picture of the thing so that he knows which one I have. I thought that was odd, but looking back at my post, I forgot to say what I had other than a 180A. "sorry Charlie"

  20. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by donhuff View Post
    Doug,

    If it had been a carburetor, I would be able to SEE what was wrong! But with this electric BS, I have to wait for something to come down out of the clouds, and then "HOPE" that it works!

    And as you know, I've been busy lately trying to get the Q boat ready. I got the stinger, stuffing tube, motor mount/rails all glued in and mounted today. I hope to attach the top deck to the hull tomorrow, and then get the rest of the hardware mounted. I'm trying to get it all mounted solid so we can do some 80-90-??? mph aero-aqua-batics with it, and not damage the hull to the point that we have to start over. So I glued the rails in before joining the hull and deck, lots easier to work on that way. I have a red and a white top ready, and have the bottoms to go with them, gotta look after my record setting buddies. I just want to try the yellow one first to make sure it floats!
    MODEL BOAT RACER
    IMPBA President
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    IMPBA National Records Director 2009-2019
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  21. #51
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    I have 2 seaking V3 180s that were acting the same way.
    they would get up to full throttle then shut down.
    then go again and shut down. in my case it was the bec
    browning out and shutting down the receiver.
    I'm using these to power the receiver now , no more problems.
    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...-for-lipo.html

  22. #52
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    I'm pretty sure that I tried a separate battery for the RX, didn't change anything.

    I get the flashing light that sez it's a LVC problem.

  23. #53
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    Hi Don. I really didn't think that is your issue but I saw other guys having
    trouble so I thought it might help them. the bec on the v3 is not very good
    and I even have a v2 that had the same problem.

  24. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by donhuff View Post
    I'm pretty sure that I tried a separate battery for the RX, didn't change anything.
    Yes you did.
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  25. #55
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    I have 2 180's, one from OSE and one from HK purchased in the last year and both have the same cut out then reset issue. Posted on another thread here and no one has come up with a solution that works. I also tried all the settings and eliminated the BEC with the same results. 4s and 6s. Totally frustrating as my oldest 180 has worked perfectly for years.
    Solution is buy another brand ESC or find a short course with 50 ft straightaways, lift and get back on it.
    What could have changed from the old to new V-3's? Hardware or software program?
    Mic

    Mic Halbrehder
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  26. #56
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    Hi Mic,

    Thank God somebody else is having the same issues as I'm having. Sorry that it's happening to you, but I was beginning to think that I had bought the only three BAD escs that they made.

    Charlie did get back to me, but did not offer a lot of info. He said that I should set the throttle limits (?). This is something that I had not done as "usually" with the seaking 180s and 120s that we have used before, this was not an issue. We just take em out of the box, solder ends on them, set cell count no reverse and timing with a program box, and go racing. The throttle has always been right before, without having to set the limits. The throttle was ok with these units too, just like the older ones were. Doug Smock told me to do the same thing so I'M GONNA DO IT and give that a try even though I have absolutely no faith that it will have anything to do with the problem. We'll see this weekend if that has any effect, and Doug will too as he also has one of these newer units in a boat that he is setting up for another club member.

    It really seems like an over heat problem to me, and since I get the green blinking light when it shuts down, this seems to verify it. Then after the first shut down, the second one comes quicker, and the the third even quicker. Sounds like a heat buildup to me. But then it seems to level off and runs the same length of time there after. I'm about ready to send them to Hobbywing usa but I bet that they will give me flack about cutting off the switch and shortening the leads.

  27. #57
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    I wonder if the issue is the program or components to go to a failsafe mode triggered by a heat sensor is kicking in prematurely and then releasing back to full throttle as it recognizes a safe temp? Just thinking. I have always set my end point to 120%. Maybe a less percentage will keep it from triggering the momentary shut down. If I hold the throttle just short of full it doesn't quit? Then again it's a cheap controller and you get what you pay for. Have not tried my $38 Flycolor 150's with more than a 1515 yet. Maybe on 6s they will run a 1521? As for "P" it looks like an MGM or Swordy 240-300.
    Mic

    Mic Halbrehder
    IMPBA 8656
    NAMBA 1414

  28. #58
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    Anything new on this fellas?
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  29. #59
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    I'm still waiting for that magical answer too.

  30. #60
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    Yep, I spent $320 for another MGM (25035 Lite) and have 2 worthless 180's on the "healing Shelf" with some Castles and Swordy's for company. For what I have spent on cheap esc's I could have a few more MGM's or Swordy 300's.
    Mic
    Solutions are never cheap!

    Mic Halbrehder
    IMPBA 8656
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