I have three v3's with the 2 caps on the case, 4 wired separately, and 2 on the power/ground wires. I've never had any issues with these controllers thankfully. But they were all purchased over a year ago. They must have a bad batch or something.
I have three v3's with the 2 caps on the case, 4 wired separately, and 2 on the power/ground wires. I've never had any issues with these controllers thankfully. But they were all purchased over a year ago. They must have a bad batch or something.
I rec a email back from Hobby Wing, they asked me to test an esc with this issue. Unfortunately I had one here but cant find it right now. They are trying to narrow down if its a lvc issue. See below.
"If you want to test whether yours' problem comes from the LVC,you can test with the LVC function off totally,not just turn down,which function caused the power cut off will be obviously."
ALSO If you bought a Seaking 180 from OSE that has this cut out issue, please email me directly so I can start a list.
info@offshoreelectrics.com
Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
We had a guy at our club on Sunday where the ESC would go into limp mode after only two laps. We turned off the LVC but it did the same thing in the next two races as well.
It may be an over sensitive temp sensor. Although nothing in the boat was hot.
See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320
So everyone is basically on "hold" while someone at Hobbywing is trying to solve the problem? Now that make me really confident in buying their products in the future. I will not send money their way again. What happened to companies just saying send it back and we'll replace a defective unit, with an apology for your inconvenience. Not the current business model.
Mic
Mic Halbrehder
IMPBA 8656
NAMBA 1414
I understand your frustration, but what's the point in them sending out replacement product until they know they've corrected the issue? My experience in the consumer electronics industry leads me to believe this will be resolved in the consumers favor. The manufacturer has acknowledged the issue, is actively testing a solution, and has stated they would take care of affected customers. Perhaps this is not all taking place on an ideal timeline, but it is in the works, which is better than many manufacturers I deal with on far more expensive, mission critical components.
Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
There are also people with problem esc's and people with setup issues.
For example, I had a customer that will remain nameless, he is a forum member and can chime in if he likes.
He had on/off problems, he then bought a hydra 240 with data logging and found out his setups were very high current. one of them 240 amps, and the other 260-300 amps. So in his case I believe the esc may have shut down correctly.
IM NOT trying to diminish the issue, but every case does need to be checked.
Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
OK, thanks!
OK ,so I sent in an RMA request that BTW was pretty long with a ton of questions that have nothing to do with boats, but is aimed mostly at car setups. They sent me a message back saying that since I bought these units from OSE that they WERE NOT eligable for an RMA warrenty request! Thats because OSE, IS NOT an authorized dealer/distributor. BUT, they said they would make an exception for me "this time"!
This does not sound like a company that KNOWS it has a bad product, and wants to make it right. I hope I'm wrong about this.
Or maybe, Charlie has not communicated to them about the problem.
Hi Steven,
Doug Smock and I tried that on the ones I have. It had NO effect on the problem at all. It made me think that my program box was not working. Thats why I ordered the fancy LCD box, and then found out that it does not work with the boat ESCs.
BTW Doug has one of the six cap versions for a friends build he is doing. He tried it Yesterday and it ran ok. But this was in a limited setup and I'm not sure that is enough to make them act up, cause I can run mine at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and they do ok. We should have put it in a full P but this was at a race and there is always something else going on, and we were sorta pushed for time.
Hi Guys,
Has there been any further updates with the full throttle cutting out problem on these new seaking v3's, a member purchased a new one a fortnight ago and it is playing up on him when on full throttle after only 1.5 - 2 laps, everything is cold electronic wise as its not a hot set up.
Thanks
Trev
I had a similar problem on a 2s setup. On the advice of some of the more knowledgeable people on this forum I hooked up a separate battery to power the rx and the esc. That solved the problem for me. This told me I was having a kind of brown out of my control voltage. I then bypassed the internal bec and connected an external bec directly to my power batteries, and this worked just as well as a separate rx pack. Again this was a 2s setup. I don't know if this helps, but it's worth a try. Don't forgot to disconnect the red wire from the ESC to the rx.
Bob
Hi Bob,
Thanks for your reply, a separate rx pack has solved the problem.
Trev
Trev,
Glad it worked. Like I said, it did the trick for me.
Bob
Yes. That was me Trev was talking about a few post back.
I had tried everything. Even tried lifting the strut to get the nose up more until it couldn't bite.
I ended up with a 6v 1600mah pack hooked into the rx and it solved the issue straight away.
Now that it runs I was able to race over the weekend and after a 5 lap race I still have 45% battery left and really cool Temps. Easy to say amp draw was not an issue in my case.
Cheers
Locky
Hey guys I'm just gonna put this out there for you that the V3 T180's are JUNK... I've been round and round with HK on this. they have replaced 3 of the 4 defective V3 ESC and I've scraped running them period. Every one in our club is or has had problems with these so save yourself a few bucks and the trouble. I've cleaned out BURN residue from my P-Mono Now 3 times from this POS ESC...
Hi all just to add some more info.
Even though i got my boat to run fine with a separate battery pack to the rx mine will still only run with a 70c battery. Also propped up some more until coming in with 30% left after a race.
On the weekend some fellow racers loaned me a set of batteries to run a final as i only had the one pack and didnt have time to charge. Ended up on my lid in the last heat and didnt require them for the final anyway.
After racing i went to run the packs down and because of a slightly lower C rating the esc still cut off again.
Conclusion from that was that a high c rated pack is still required regardless.
Cheers
Locky
Well, after reading for an hour about this, it seems we still have no solution.
I have the EXACT problem as Don and Mic, and cant get these damn things to work. Don or Mic, have you guys made any progress on the V3 ESCs?
I'm not saying you don't have an esc problem because it's impossible to say from this side of a monitor. But This was a big problem when the first v3 esc's came out. It was resolved. The only issues I've seen since then I have been instances where the esc's were over amped and shut down or weak packs were used.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
Steven, I’m not buying it. I have 4 of these V3s and they are all various versions of V3. I also have 3 of the V2’s and none of them have this issue. They are all on the same exact setup. 4082 Leopard, 1600kv, M445 props with brand New (literally brand new) 75C Graphene 6000 MAH 6S lipos. I’ve run the V2s with this exact setup for 7 years with zero issues. I’m talking about race conditions, not just playing out at the lake.
I talked to Don Huff about it, I’ve talked to Mic Halbrehder about it, I’ve talked to Doug Smock about it. It’s an issue, and Turnigy/Hobby King hasn’t done anything to fix it apparently.
I wish I had known beforehand, I would not have wasted $500 on 4 of these ESCs. It is what it is, now I know. But there is most definitely an ESC problem.
Yeah. I won't buy another Seaking 180 V3 until there are multiple reports of success. Amazing that the manufacturer just won't come up with a version that works. POS.
Too bad we can't get V2 back. They are shooting themselves in the foot.
Nortavlag Bulc
I asked for one and they said they no longer make them. If we or someone asks for 100 or more, maybe they will make a batch?
https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...28eb5e77oObHqO
Nortavlag Bulc
Ive got 3 of those Ray and they are bullet proof. Ive been running them for years in my race boats. Too bad the V3's fall short.
I see there have been no updates related to the 'ESC early shutdown' problem in over a year. Does that mean the problem has been completely resolved? Or, does this problem still occur? Does the firmware need to be updated to a certain version (or higher), and, if so, what is the minimum firmware version number? Speaking of firmware, can the 180 V3's firmware even be updated?
Moving over to the programming side of things, do both programming devices (ie. Multifunction LCD Professional Program Box, Program Card for Seaking Boat ESCs) work with the 180 V3, or does only one of these work (and, if so, which one)? Going another route...not sure if anyone has even attempted this...can the Hobbywing WiFi Express Module be used for programming (and updating the firmware)? I've read that the WiFi Module can be used with certain HW Seaking ESCs, but I haven't found anything indicating specifically which Seaking ESCs. As I have off-road vehicles, I already have the Multifunction LCD Box, as well as the WiFi Module, and I'm hoping that at least one of them can be used with the 180 V3.
~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
Going by the Hobbywing website, only the older LED program box can be used (click on Specifications). http://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?i...attr=6639.6640
Their newer Pro series marine ESCs can use the LCD box or WiFi.
I bought a 180 V3 off a club member. I was running with Leo 4070 1650kv on 4s no problems. Switch the motor to TP 4050 2300kv motor on 4s(yes I realize TP are amp hogs) I started to have cutting out problems. It would run then stop. Then I could go again. I added a bec, seeing if that would help with the cutting out. It was still cutting out. I really wish seaking would remake the V3?s back to V2?s and make them a pro model. Also wish they would up it to 200amp.
Eric, since you increased the peak rpm of the motor by almost 10,000 rpm, I hope you reduced the diameter of the prop by about 10 mm.
And I'm curious as to why you say the TPs are "amp hogs" ? I guess it's because you have read this before. I keep hearing this about different brands, but I never hear any reasoning for anyone saying this.
As don mentioned, hopefully you propped down. What is the LVC set to? Your batteries may be experiencing more voltage sag on the new setup and tripping the LVC too early. I've had trouble with overly sensitive LVC on the V3 ESC, and usualy just disable it by default since I time my runs.
Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
Bookmarks