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Thread: Blew my Raider 150 and SK180. What now?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    This is absolutely accurate. The route water can travel with less resistance will flow more water. I've seen this multiple times inside peoples boats.

    The only way the flow splits perfectly even is if the friction loss in both directions are equal. Really tough to do since there is more to it than just lineal inches. As the tubing bends it creates more friction. If one is bent in a tighter radius or something the friction is a little different.
    You can put a restriction on the esc line after the split to increase flow to motor. If you experiment with different restrictions you can tailor your flow as you like. This is similar to tuning a nitro engine by controlling the water flow it gets. Terry Keeley (sp) learned me on this two years ago. Pretty cool.

    FWIW, I don't split cooling lines.


    This just made me realize where THE heat issue on my Q sport is coming from, thank you !!!!!! now I can fix it one custom motor down unfortunately... once I make the change we will see how restrictive a brass .75" radius actually is/was.

    Thanks Bro!!!
    Nortavlag Bulc

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by photohoward1 View Post
    Why do you need bilge pumps? The boat should stay dry. If it's not that should be a priority.
    Because the boat has such a low profile the motor has to be mounted very low causing the flex shaft stuffing tube opening to literally be a few millimeters off of the tunnel. It leaks after the first battery and the grease breaks down. But mostly because I'm a geek and I think they are cool.

  3. #33
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    Try a small piece of silicone hose over the end of the stuffing tube. It can keep teflon liners from popping out, wipes grease off the flexshaft, and will certainly slow the ingress of water.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  4. #34
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    Sep 2012
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    FL
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    Here's my thoughts on batts and I strictly run for fun, no racing. I have turnigy and revo batts and they all perform well and have lasted a long time, 2-3 years. I balance charge and storage charge them and time my runs for 4 minutes, so never depleting the packs way low. My boats run speeds of 40-85mph for reference.

    Also, 99% of my packs have been purchased here used and I've had good luck and try to buy from reputable sellers, HOWEVER I still have purchased a few duds that didn't last long but for the reduced price I pay, it's no big deal.

    The batts I have killed were(in no particular order) grim racer and dinogy.

    Last thought, while I think the bilge pumps are cool, they seem to be overkill for an rc boat and you should heed the advice above to stop the water coming into your boat. Thanks for sharing your issues, it helps us all learn from the veterans.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by RuntheraceAMC View Post
    Because the boat has such a low profile the motor has to be mounted very low causing the flex shaft stuffing tube opening to literally be a few millimeters off of the tunnel. It leaks after the first battery and the grease breaks down. But mostly because I'm a geek and I think they are cool.
    How much water do you get in it after a full run?

  6. #36
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    First run. Just a few drops. Second and third run.... If I were to soak it up with a paper towel, squeeze and repeat: 2-3 times with a paper towel takes care of it.

    The other reason why I like the bilges is because on my lower power batteries (e.g. 5s) I don't care to mess with taping the hatch. So I get a bit more water, but no sweat. The bilge just pumps it out.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Water flying around within the boat does kill things. From time to time a well run boat will develop leaks but we try to deal with them as they arise.
    Shawn

  8. #38
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    I have a unique ability to learn these lessons the hard way.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by RuntheraceAMC View Post
    I have a unique ability to learn these lessons the hard way.
    And how do ya think I know,,, haha

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    You can put a restriction on the esc line after the split to increase flow to motor. If you experiment with different restrictions you can tailor your flow as you like. This is similar to tuning a nitro engine by controlling the water flow it gets. Terry Keeley (sp) learned me on this two years ago. Pretty cool.

    FWIW, I don't split cooling lines.


    This just made me realize where THE heat issue on my Q sport is coming from, thank you !!!!!! now I can fix it one custom motor down unfortunately... once I make the change we will see how restrictive a brass .75" radius actually is/was.

    Thanks Bro!!!




    I have added a pic of the choke point... well I hope it works.

    a9503186-219-IMG_20161104_195214.jpg
    Nortavlag Bulc

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