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Thread: 1/8 Scale Winston Eagle Hydro

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    NV
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    139

    Default 1/8 Scale Winston Eagle Hydro

    Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Motor: Neu 1527 1.5y
    Batteries: 2-5S Revo
    ESC: Swordfish 240 PRO

    Motor and drive train: Since the center section is offset in the hull everything (drive train) can just be centered in that section and placement of the motor (forward or aft) can be placed where it best suits the balance or is there a approximate measurement from the built up frame that makes up the rear sponson.

    Turn fin: I will be using the Speedmaster Lg.turn fin that has no bend in it so what would be a good approximate angle for mounting and then it can be adjusted by the mount after the fact.

    Strut: I somewhat remember that when I built my Miss Circus Circus hydro, it had some measurements (on the plans) for how far it drops below the belly but that it had a slight angle to it for a good starting point.

    Prop: Would starting with a Octura 457 be too big (or too small), this was a go to prop when I was running nitro

    Stuffing Box: Use Teflon tube or not, back in the day I used to run them. Is there an advantage to not using one besides it binding up in the brass.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    SP
    Posts
    975

    Default

    Motor Neu 1530 is my personal preference.
    GO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
    www.grsboats.com.br

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    NV
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    139

    Default

    After figuring out that my desktop won't download pics, this is where I'm at as of today. Had it all framed up and the bottom ply attached as of last week, worked on building up the sponson's (riding surface and sides) during last week and laid some carbon fiber in the sponson's and sides in the rear today20161002_142112_resized.jpg20161002_142125_resized.jpg20161002_142054_resized.jpg20161002_142135_resized.jpg. Hopefully will have all the parts this week from RCBoatCompany so I can start working on the cowl and get the center sections all configured and carbon fiber laid down. Here are some pics of my progress so far.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    NV
    Posts
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    Default

    Well, 100 views and only one response (grsboats) thanks for responding but had already bought motor setup, I'm in need of some assistance and can only hope the right person reads my post and can offer a little help.

    Turn fin: I went with the large Speedmaster (blade is 3-1/2"tall) and it does have a bend in it so I figure I'll fix it to the sponson so that the mount is vertical. Where I could use some help is do I want to mount it so the entire blade is in the water or is there a about range (a minumum) and does the blade need to be in line with the outer most side of the riding pad?20161003_164907_resized.jpg20161003_164922_resized.jpg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Ql
    Posts
    3,169

    Default

    I like to mount the fin so that the leading edge is right where the ride pad & dead rise meet on the heel of the sponson. I mount them as low as practical. Rough days need plenty of fin in the water.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    NV
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    139

    Default

    Perfect....Thank You!!

  7. #7
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    NV
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    Default

    About to mount the rudder and was wondering, On the full size hydro they ran counter clockwise so turn fin was on the left side and in pics online you can see that the rudder was mounted on the right. Since we run clockwise, turn fin is on the right. Should the rudder be mounted on the left or opposite side of turn fin. Does it matter or should this be done to stay with how the real hydro was set up. So that it's truly built to scale just in case I decide to race it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    SP
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    Yes it can be mounted in the left with no problems even if you decide to race it it will turn great.
    GO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
    www.grsboats.com.br

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    NV
    Posts
    139

    Default

    Some pics, Using HRC motor mount and wanted mounting through the bottom of the hull so cut and shaped some aluminum to widen for drilling and tapping. JB welded pices to mount and also added three screws on each side to make me feel better. Got all hardware fixed to hull and drilled hole for shaft tube and ran water cooling lines.
    The trick I read in a post about adding salt in the brass tube before bending (genius) came out nice. Ups showed up today with all my parts from RCBoaycompany and got a start tonight on the front. 20161007_183902_resized.jpg20161007_183935_resized.jpg20161008_095727_resized.jpg20161008_190335_resized.jpg20161008_190555_resized.jpg

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    SP
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    Brass tubes can easily be bent just heating them till they change color..let them cold down and you will found out how soft they became.
    GO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
    www.grsboats.com.br

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    NV
    Posts
    139

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    Well, Finally got the carbon fiber laid down in the center section..been a little hectic around the house lately but should be able to make some good progress in the next couple of weeks...will be the last time I do this as the process is time consuming but turned out pretty good for the first time working with carbon fiber and should pop nicely when color ia laid down and motor is mounted.carbon1.jpgcarbon2.jpg

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    NV
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    139

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    Got some updates finally, added the wing mounts got plumbing in and foamed everything except where the front wing is mounted. used a carbon fiber tube to tie the front together20161113_115457.jpg20161119_212313.jpg20161119_212323 (2).jpg20161119_212346 (2).jpg

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    NV
    Posts
    139

    Default

    Also got the decks on (glad that's done) this weekend and mounted uprights and wing using RCBoatCompany's hardware, turned out pretty good. prior post shows flaps on front wing, going to put on auxillary channel so they can be adjusted by knob or thinking maybe about mixing with the throttle channel, Still thinking about that one.20161130_161758 (2).jpg20161205_181015.jpg20161205_181035.jpg

  14. #14
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    Sep 2016
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    NV
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    Default

    Rotated this one20161205_181015.jpg

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Co
    Posts
    3,915

    Default

    Nice build. I like all the flotation.
    Randy
    For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware
    BBY Racing

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    NV
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    139

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    Thanks Randy, It's been slow going but the holidays are about over and I'm getting things done slowly but surely. Got the front wing hinges installed on the flaps, padded up the rear hull wings and got the initial shape done, The front flaps will be operational and assigned to an auxiliary channel on radio20161214_153739.jpg20161214_153735.jpg[ATTACH=CONFIG]148508[/ATTACH
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by worthing3104; 12-28-2016 at 01:27 AM.

  17. #17
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    NV
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    139

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    Also worked on the fitment of the cowl, got the framing epoxied to it 20161221_185034.jpg20161221_185047.jpg20161227_213647.jpg20161227_213657.jpgand worked on the cowl latches tonight getting them installed. Servos will be here tomorrow and can start work on setting up the servo that will work the flaps and finalize the push rod for the rudder by the weekend, Figure I should be ready for primer in about four weeks.

  18. #18
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    NV
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    139

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    Some updates, built the rear deck that will have the turbine tube attached to it. Found the tube at summit racing (intake tube 3-1/2") a little heavier than making one but it's a solid piece with no welding or gluing of seams.20161231_142118.jpg20161231_142136.jpg20161231_154848.jpg20170101_145843.jpg20170101_145934.jpg

  19. #19
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    Sep 2016
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  20. #20
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    Sep 2016
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    NV
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    Got the rudder servo (MKS) 20170107_123410.jpg20170107_123424.jpg20170107_123431.jpgand rod setup, using carbon fiber rod with the OSE rod ends.

  21. #21
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    Sep 2016
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    NV
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    Here's a few of the setup for the flaps, will be adjustable on the radio (Airtronics)20170119_122808.jpg20170119_122813.jpg20170121_133809.jpg using an auxiliary channel and a MKS wing servo mounted to the battery tray I made up

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    NV
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    A few pics of the boat. Am using catboi's idea for the mounting of the window plastics20170102_175720.jpg20170102_175730.jpg20170102_175754.jpg20170102_175817.jpg20170118_230033.jpg

  23. #23
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    Sep 2016
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  24. #24
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    NV
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    Did all of the filling this past week using bondo (wood filler) and will do all of the final sanding this next week and the sealing of wood. Sand one more time then take it to a buddy that will lay down the primer for me. Should be done with all that in about two weeks then color can be laid down. Can't wait to be done with this project but it's been fun trying to figure things out and prefab something from scratch.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    56

    Thumbs up

    Very nice build !!!

  26. #26
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    NV
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    Thank you WestJL21!! Got everything sanded and ready to start sealing wood tomorrow. Got the graphics today, Mike at Thunderboat Graphics did an awesome job and can't wait to see them on and paint will be here on Wednesday. I can finally see a lttle bit of light at the end of the tunnel...lol

  27. #27
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    Jul 2013
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    Wa
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    1

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    How are you going to seal the wood and prep for primer?

  28. #28
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    Sep 2016
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    NV
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    139

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    I used a epoxy finish resin...sanding wasn't too bad...usually where I start to lose my patients but came out pretty good and primer laid down nice

  29. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    La
    Posts
    550

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    beautiful boat , very very nice.

  30. #30
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    NV
    Posts
    139

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    Thank you!!...Will post some pics soon...all parts are painted white and have some of the smaller parts ready for clear.

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