My first construction, mystic 114

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  • golfito
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2011
    • 296

    #1

    My first construction, mystic 114

    My first construction, mystic 114.
    I will try to assemble my first boat. I have a tfl pursuit, but you buy it fully armed. So, I will try to learn.
    After several months of waiting, I could get some of the items I need. It is not easy on my land to get the parties. Imports are very restricted and times for the parts extend sometimes many months. Not counting the lost shipments. Luckily, some friends bring me some parts gift on your travels.
    Steven apologize for the inconvenience that causes him sometimes.20160619_010517.jpg20160710_172724.jpg20160710_172750.jpg20160710_172803.jpg
  • golfito
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2011
    • 296

    #2
    20160911_005043.jpg20160824_001643.jpg20160904_162608.jpg20160904_162556.jpg20160917_123651.jpg

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    • golfito
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2011
      • 296

      #3
      20160904_173206.jpg20160904_173218.jpg20160917_221747.jpg20160918_004453.jpg20160918_004503.jpg

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      • TheShaddix
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2013
        • 759

        #4
        Great work on the bracket. I would refine it a bit to clean up the edges, etc. Those don't look like stainless bolts though. Are they just regular steel?

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        • golfito
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2011
          • 296

          #5
          Thank you very much. Sorry if you do not understand properly.
          Still it lacks polish everything. I'm testing the parties. Since nothing is original part MHZ.
          Supports the stinger and rudder are made of aluminum. They are still very raw, cut to manual closed.

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          • golfito
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2011
            • 296

            #6
            Thank you very much. Sorry if you do not understand properly.
            Still it lacks polish everything. I'm testing the parties. Since nothing is original part MHZ.
            Supports the stinger and rudder are made of aluminum. They are still very raw, cut to manual closed.
            Screws will change for stainless steel or titanium.

            Comment

            • boredom.is.me
              Senior Member
              • Jun 2009
              • 595

              #7
              Nice build so far.

              Just go with stainless steel bolts.

              What motors are you using?

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              • golfito
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2011
                • 296

                #8
                Thank you very much.
                The engines are two TP 4050 1700KV. They were used with two Turnigy T180A, V3. Or maybe two flycolor 150A. Lipos 6S, 5A, 40C. Octura 447.
                I am evaluating how to avoid water entering the intake ducts rudder cables. Also as manufacturing adjustable brackets batteries. And make a reinforcement with carbon and epoxy twill inside the hull of fiber. The latter generates doubts me.
                I am also removing the hull paint, because I was with many imperfections. Not a MHZ hull.20160921_225853.jpg20160921_225819.jpg13312884_1548089578826111_1982930763276392043_n (1).jpg13241281_1548090072159395_5923778655062168583_n.jpg
                Last edited by golfito; 09-21-2016, 11:07 PM.

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                • golfito
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2011
                  • 296

                  #9
                  I'm trying to find ways to make the connection cables traction rudder.
                  If I use the wires in their normal position I get only a distance of approximately 30 degrees to each side. Because if I pass that I have not registo limit on the steel shaft. And it locks in some occasions if you exceed the limit and the position is resumed.
                  If I invest cables I have free movement.
                  And I'm also thinking about how to isolate the water. If using rubber bellows inside the hull. At the end of the pipe cables.20160926_003610.jpg20160927_220823.jpg20160927_220839.jpg

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                  • golfito
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2011
                    • 296

                    #10


                    Last edited by golfito; 12-04-2016, 09:04 PM.

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                    • TheShaddix
                      Senior Member
                      • Sep 2013
                      • 759

                      #11
                      Your issue with the rudder is that at some point it just stops pulling because of the location of those horns on the rudder and your spacing of the cable "feet" on the hull. The angle will not allow it to keep pulling. You can reposition the horns, i have the same rudder and I relocated them to be inline with that pivot pin. And you can also move the attachment feet closer to the center. This way you get more movement.

                      Comment

                      • golfito
                        Senior Member
                        • Sep 2011
                        • 296

                        #12
                        Compilation of photos with some progress. I try to keep with a low budget in the construction. I hope you like it although there are no clean constructions with CNC.
                        Greetings.

                        Comment

                        • boredom.is.me
                          Senior Member
                          • Jun 2009
                          • 595

                          #13
                          Originally posted by TheShaddix
                          Your issue with the rudder is that at some point it just stops pulling because of the location of those horns on the rudder and your spacing of the cable "feet" on the hull. The angle will not allow it to keep pulling. You can reposition the horns, i have the same rudder and I relocated them to be inline with that pivot pin. And you can also move the attachment feet closer to the center. This way you get more movement.
                          It's kind of a relative thing though. If your push rod is absolutely straight (front to back), then the ideal position for the control horn hole would be directly to the side of the pivot. You want those three points to form an L. The l would be the push rod and the _ would be the line between the horn hole and the pivot point.

                          With the rudder linkages being so wide, it is actually ideal for him to not reposition the horn. The total rudder throw is simply maxed out.

                          That's my viewpoint at least. I'm not disagreeing with anything you just said.

                          Comment

                          • boredom.is.me
                            Senior Member
                            • Jun 2009
                            • 595

                            #14
                            Originally posted by golfito
                            Compilation of photos with some progress. I try to keep with a low budget in the construction. I hope you like it although there are no clean constructions with CNC.
                            Greetings.

                            You don't need a machine to get stuff done. That is really good handwork though.

                            For the cables, you would have to use tubing to keep the cable lined up properly with the servo. You can maybe just use some heat shrink to keep it low profile. The smallest bellows I have seen are the ones made by aquacraft for the radio box. That'ss what I'm using on my build.

                            This boat will be a real beast! The carbon inlay looks amazing.

                            Comment

                            • TheShaddix
                              Senior Member
                              • Sep 2013
                              • 759

                              #15
                              Good point, i guess if the movement is maxed out at that point, then the horns make sense. I also noticed on my boats the rudder doesn't have to turn as much for the boat to turn as long as the blade surface area is large enough. I repositioned the horns only because I just do the cables almost parallel. This way there is less drag and the rudder returns to dead center much easier even with cheaper servos.

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