Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 80

Thread: My first construction, mystic 114

  1. #1

    Default My first construction, mystic 114

    My first construction, mystic 114.
    I will try to assemble my first boat. I have a tfl pursuit, but you buy it fully armed. So, I will try to learn.
    After several months of waiting, I could get some of the items I need. It is not easy on my land to get the parties. Imports are very restricted and times for the parts extend sometimes many months. Not counting the lost shipments. Luckily, some friends bring me some parts gift on your travels.
    Steven apologize for the inconvenience that causes him sometimes.20160619_010517.jpg20160710_172724.jpg20160710_172750.jpg20160710_172803.jpg

  2. #2

  3. #3

  4. #4

    Default

    Great work on the bracket. I would refine it a bit to clean up the edges, etc. Those don't look like stainless bolts though. Are they just regular steel?

  5. #5

    Default

    Thank you very much. Sorry if you do not understand properly.
    Still it lacks polish everything. I'm testing the parties. Since nothing is original part MHZ.
    Supports the stinger and rudder are made of aluminum. They are still very raw, cut to manual closed.

  6. #6

    Default

    Thank you very much. Sorry if you do not understand properly.
    Still it lacks polish everything. I'm testing the parties. Since nothing is original part MHZ.
    Supports the stinger and rudder are made of aluminum. They are still very raw, cut to manual closed.
    Screws will change for stainless steel or titanium.

  7. #7

    Default

    Nice build so far.

    Just go with stainless steel bolts.

    What motors are you using?

  8. #8

    Default

    Thank you very much.
    The engines are two TP 4050 1700KV. They were used with two Turnigy T180A, V3. Or maybe two flycolor 150A. Lipos 6S, 5A, 40C. Octura 447.
    I am evaluating how to avoid water entering the intake ducts rudder cables. Also as manufacturing adjustable brackets batteries. And make a reinforcement with carbon and epoxy twill inside the hull of fiber. The latter generates doubts me.
    I am also removing the hull paint, because I was with many imperfections. Not a MHZ hull.20160921_225853.jpg20160921_225819.jpg13312884_1548089578826111_1982930763276392043_n (1).jpg13241281_1548090072159395_5923778655062168583_n.jpg
    Last edited by golfito; 09-21-2016 at 11:07 PM.

  9. #9

    Default

    I'm trying to find ways to make the connection cables traction rudder.
    If I use the wires in their normal position I get only a distance of approximately 30 degrees to each side. Because if I pass that I have not registo limit on the steel shaft. And it locks in some occasions if you exceed the limit and the position is resumed.
    If I invest cables I have free movement.
    And I'm also thinking about how to isolate the water. If using rubber bellows inside the hull. At the end of the pipe cables.20160926_003610.jpg20160927_220823.jpg20160927_220839.jpg

  10. #10

    Default

    Last edited by golfito; 12-04-2016 at 09:04 PM.

  11. #11

    Default

    Your issue with the rudder is that at some point it just stops pulling because of the location of those horns on the rudder and your spacing of the cable "feet" on the hull. The angle will not allow it to keep pulling. You can reposition the horns, i have the same rudder and I relocated them to be inline with that pivot pin. And you can also move the attachment feet closer to the center. This way you get more movement.

  12. #12

    Default

    Compilation of photos with some progress. I try to keep with a low budget in the construction. I hope you like it although there are no clean constructions with CNC.
    Greetings.


  13. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TheShaddix View Post
    Your issue with the rudder is that at some point it just stops pulling because of the location of those horns on the rudder and your spacing of the cable "feet" on the hull. The angle will not allow it to keep pulling. You can reposition the horns, i have the same rudder and I relocated them to be inline with that pivot pin. And you can also move the attachment feet closer to the center. This way you get more movement.
    It's kind of a relative thing though. If your push rod is absolutely straight (front to back), then the ideal position for the control horn hole would be directly to the side of the pivot. You want those three points to form an L. The l would be the push rod and the _ would be the line between the horn hole and the pivot point.

    With the rudder linkages being so wide, it is actually ideal for him to not reposition the horn. The total rudder throw is simply maxed out.

    That's my viewpoint at least. I'm not disagreeing with anything you just said.

  14. #14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by golfito View Post
    Compilation of photos with some progress. I try to keep with a low budget in the construction. I hope you like it although there are no clean constructions with CNC.
    Greetings.

    You don't need a machine to get stuff done. That is really good handwork though.

    For the cables, you would have to use tubing to keep the cable lined up properly with the servo. You can maybe just use some heat shrink to keep it low profile. The smallest bellows I have seen are the ones made by aquacraft for the radio box. That'ss what I'm using on my build.

    This boat will be a real beast! The carbon inlay looks amazing.

  15. #15

    Default

    Good point, i guess if the movement is maxed out at that point, then the horns make sense. I also noticed on my boats the rudder doesn't have to turn as much for the boat to turn as long as the blade surface area is large enough. I repositioned the horns only because I just do the cables almost parallel. This way there is less drag and the rudder returns to dead center much easier even with cheaper servos.

  16. #16

    Default

    Thank you so much guys!
    As soon as I have something resolved I will send photos. That way it's easier to communicate.
    Greetings.

  17. #17

    Default


  18. #18

  19. #19

  20. #20

    Default

    Today I finish the rudder with my modifications. I will start with the stingers shafts and the motor mount.

    20161209_185508.jpg20161209_185524.jpg20161209_190005.jpg20161209_191213.jpg

    20161209_185508.jpg20161209_185751.jpg


  21. #21

    Default

    The carbon looks way too wet and bumpy, that happens when you pour epoxy onto the surface, then lay the cloth down, but don't press/roll it in so it flattens, so now you have epoxy puddles under and over the surface. A foam brush/roller would have solved the problem to get the excess epoxy off of it. I would definitely sand that down (60-80 grit) and do another inlay on top. Also, what is the purpose of those fake hydraulics on the rudder if they are just for the look, but the main, functional ones are very obvious and not concealed like on some boats. I don't get the point of this redundancy, should be either one or the other.

    My advice would be for you to focus on refining all the parts you make because clearly you do great work on some things like that rudder bracket. It could use additional sanding and polishing to get the scratches off. I'd also add some plugs where those holes are on the hull for the steering cables to dress it up.

  22. #22

    Default

    Thank you very much for the advice and recommendations.
    I will try to correct the appearance of carbon. It was not a good job. Lack of experience and anxiety... haha. Also had a base with many potholes and balloons.
    With the rudder could not make it work correctly. The mechanism I didn't. Too much friction was generated in wires when passing by the arms. Maybe could pass the rubber bellows inside...
    The recommendations are well received.

  23. #23

    Default

    Loosen the pushrod holder on the servo arm. The nut only needs to be tight enough to stop it from shaking.



    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  24. #24

    Default

    Oh, that is true, it looks like his linkage is also too tight at the rudder, you can see the couplers are not rotating along with the wire.

    As for the surface having defects, you should always block-sand it first before any carbon work. Those small bumps are super easy to remove. Now you can still do that, just make a wooden block and wrap some 40-60 grit around that, it should flatten your inlay nicely. Put a vacuum hose there so you don't get any carbon dust.

  25. #25

    Default

    Can I consult?
    I'm going to use 6s lipos and 447 R / L.
    I have the V2 and V3 versions of T180 turnigy. I'm going to put a bank of capacitors. Which version would be more appropriate?
    The motors are tp 4050 1700kv or I also have a pair of leopard 4082 2200kv. But I go for the tp 1700kv.
    Thank you!.20161231_172612.jpg20161231_174616.jpg20161231_174343.jpg
    Last edited by golfito; 01-08-2017 at 09:55 PM.

  26. #26

    Default

    what speed are you aiming for? Those TP 1700kv will give you around 75-80 mph and be a safe setup. The leopards 2200kv are good for 95+ mph, but not safe for continuous running. I run 2200kv sss motors but I use swordfish 240A esc's. I blew up multiple 180A turnigy/seaking esc's running that setup. It's just unstable unless all you plan to do is a few runs back and forth full throttle and bring it back.

  27. #27

    Default

    Thank you very much for helping.
    Think about using the 1700kv for fear of burning the T180. I also estimate that my boat will be considerably heavier than other mystic ones.
    I had been advised to use the 2200kv when buying the hull. But I was afraid that the T180s would not resist.
    75mph is something like 120km / h ... is more than I could drive ... lol.
    I thought that the T180 V2 could handle the configuration better (so I read in the forum), but others said that V3 is superior. So I do not know which one to choose.
    I have a pair of flycolor 150a too, but I do not dare use them in this boat. At least until you try it on another boat.

  28. #28

    Default

    Also going through the forum, I find that the set of TX RX is not viable. Reading I find that my old DX3S (DSM) and my rx sr3000 / sr3500 / sr3300t are not advisable for navigation ...
    Plan B, I will use a turnigy gtx3 which is a renamed gt3b flysky. From what I saw, if they're using it.
    And lipos ... for now turnigy or zippy. It is very difficult to find good lipo material in Argentina. Even more with the new regulation of air shipments.

  29. #29

    Default

    Have you tried looking on hobbyking for lipos? I recommend those graphene ones. Just be sure to always use 50+ C rating.

  30. #30

    Default

    It does not send more Hobbyking lipos, at least so it shows the screen to me of the web.
    And there are no good quality lipos, or high raiting "C". I have a pair of zippy compact 6s 5000 40c. I am dealing with an importer to get something better.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •