27" Fast Lovemachine on 6S smashed, need repair advice

[planezero]

I finally installed new goodies in my SV over the weekend...
Feigao 7XL (2382 KV)
Hyrda 120
3x 2S1P SMC 5000mah
Eagletree logger & LCD panel to capture everything... GPS/RPM sensor/3x temp sensors



I know this is all way beyond the specs of the hull/motor/esc, but of course one likes to discover limits & go beyond...
Unloaded, the prop would turn 60000 rpm waaay past the motor bearing spec. of 50K..

Here's a video of it while everything was still fine...
(just feathering the throttle as I didnt dare go faster yet)
You Tube Video
(whats up with that swan anyway ??? wouldnt budge to save its life!)

Like everyone says on this forum..over 45 mph is no fun with this boat...
just feathering the throttle brings it to 70km/h...

Anyway, after the vid I brought it in and smashed it into the bank at 35mph
I had to pry it loose with all my might as the nose was stuck between some wooden planks in the bank.

Major damage to the hull...
The 3 Lipos were ripped out of their plastic wraps...
The motor mount was even warped ?!?
The Hydra esc was leaking electrlyt from both capacitors and cooking, which didnt surprise me as it was pulling 180 amps according to the logger. (prop was X440/3)

Im thinking of repairing the hull if it is possible (and runnning 4S in the future
which was also stupid fast)

I have no experience repairing fibre glass or painting (what is it again, a gel paint ?)
Is it repairable and how do I go about it or should I just buy a new/used hull ?

Thanks for any advice !

Berry

Here are some pics of the damage :

[j.m.]

just get a new hull. They're cheap:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRXZ0&P=7

Yes. The motor mount would definitely bend. It was not designed to take the weight of an XL motor.

The back end of the motor needs to be supported.

[Steven Vaccaro]

Many people are running xl motors in sv's. These motor mounts are fine with xl's if they are not crashed that bad.

Sorry to see the destruction. I would try it with 4s and a new hull.

[RCprince]

I run my SV on 6S but with a BJ Motor, thats alot of kv 2382

[line6]

6s with a 7xL I love it! probably won't last but fun for a while. I shyed away from a 7xL with 4s in a sv. although i still want to try it I would try to fix that hull just read up on fiberglass work. you have a perfect hull to practice on.

[planezero]

Line6,

I still have a big grin on my face from the few minutes I got to run it, which makes up for the damage

4S was do-able with the lipos moved way up front next to the motor as you have them.With the 3 lipos it just immediately rides on the prop and becomes uncontrollable (thats why I tried to accelerate slowly in the vid)
I'd probably want to put some weight in the front, put the upgraded 70K
bearings in the motor (which Steven carries), and go for a 200 amp esc as this was just too much for the poor Hyrda 120 and this might become a great setup.
(As long as the motor wiring holds up)

Theres a cheap & good esc here which only needs to be made waterproof :
http://www.himodel.com/electric/HiMo...200A-OPTO.html

I was also thinking of learning some repair skills, I have the feeling I will need them in the future ...

[Eodman]

Well pick up a new hull ... and use it for reference as you practice on the damaged one! There are enough guys on here that have stuffed their SV's that are more than willing to answer questions!

[j.m.]

It would be very, very hard to get that hull smooth without the use of some sort of mold pulled from a new hull.

You can use a parting board and pour a plaster mold for the top and bottom of the front of a new hull, and use those to repair your boat.

[Eodman]

Hard I think next to impossible to get it near smooth ... but he can get it operational again without pulling molds! Just won't be real pretty ... although out on the water at speed you probably won't notice!

[ghostofpf1]

Meh..push things back into general shape and CA in place...mix some micro balloons (easier to sand) into some epoxy...finishing epoxy works best (also easier to sand than 5 - 30 minute stuff) and slather it on like you're doing auto body work.Let set until just hard enough that it's no longer rubbery then rough it out with a file. After that finish up with sandpaper on a block and you'll be good to go...... until you hit another stationary object
HTH
Ghost

[Ctonez]

hot setup even with 4S...but 6S?!?
you were gonna burn it all up anyway. Ironic that you crushed the hull first.

[planezero]

Thanks for the advice...
I will try what ghostofpf1 suggested first, if it fails Ill move everything over to a new hull.
Will order some Topflight microballoons (had never heard the stuff )
I have some Pacer Z-poxy finishinig resin at home which I used to strengthen the wooden frame inside the hull.

What paint can I use after epoxying & sanding to mimic the Aquacraft yellow gel coating ?
(again I'm useless at hull work but eager to learn )

Berry

[egneg]

Incorporate the damage into a snazy mod with some molding material and paint.

[j.m.]

That's probably what it will end up looking like without a set of molds...

That or you are in for a LOT of wet sanding.

[785boats]

Trying to match both colour & finish would be difficult.
Why not use a contrasting colour like purple or red & feather it onto the good part of the hull with overspray so one colour fades to the other. A light sand with 1200 wet paper, then a cut & polish.
Or perhaps you could mask off the damaged portion in an irregular zig zag fashion & spray the area with silver or chrome.
Or any other combination that takes your fancy.
Might as well customise a bit now that you've been given a reason to.
What surprises me is that there is no resin in the matting itself. I'm no 'Glassing' expert but is this normal? I like to get the mat well soaked when I glass something.
All the best.
Paul.

[planezero]

LOL EGNEG !!!, a mean barracuda look did cross my mind !
Ill let my 10 year old have a go...


785boats, The colour wouldnt have to match, could mask it diagonally and paint a black nose, might look good...

But dont have a clue which paint to use in order to match aquacraft the gel coat finish.

Maybe I shouldnt worry about that yet and try to fix it first...

Since the shape of the nose is reasonably retained I was thinking of :

* Masking the nose till the I get to the portion of the hull that is still in tact.
* Getting rid of the paint...
* Taping the front half of the damaged part of the nose to hold everything together and epoxy the other half
* Then remove the tape and epoxy the rest.
* Sand & paint...

Will this work ?


Berry

[Eodman]

While not an easy repair ... with patience and elbow grease it shouldn't look too bad!

As a reference take a look at Darin's repairing of his Oberto 1991. While not the same materials certainly the same procedures can be followed but with the right materials!

Again take your time and don't rush it!

His thread is under boat building titled " repairing the Oberto 1991 1/10th scale