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Thread: Seaking 180a completely blows up.

  1. #1
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    Default Seaking 180a completely blows up.

    Check this out. Been running on my Impulse for 3-4 years on 6s no problems at all and 58-60mph runs. I'm thinking the water line got clogged and over heated. I blew through the water line and noticed a clog after the run. At least the boat didn't catch on fire lol.




  2. #2
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    Darn, that really stinks. I typically blow all the water out of the lines after a run, maybe I should remember to blow through them before running as well.
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  3. #3
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    Damage to ESCs is often cumulative, so it may burn under conditions that were fine before. Too, these are not designed or made to last forever, so if you got four years of heavy use, consider yourself lucky.



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  4. #4
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    Had this happen to me as well :)

    This M-80 firework in disguise has a tendency to make you pee your pants :D

  5. #5
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    Also twice this year in two saw events pushing hard my electronics.......this is part of the game.
    GO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
    www.grsboats.com.br

  6. #6
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    Can anyone else smell that just thinking about it? Just me?

    I had the Turnigy version of this spit a power lead right out of the case. It was basically brand new.
    Noisy person

  7. #7
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    I hate that smell Lol. I've burned up two v3's. I had one do what yours did Terry and the power lead melted right out of the case

  8. #8
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    I've got a Seaking V2 180 that I'm about to maiden in the mono hull I've been building for over a year, I'm hope everything goes smoothly!
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

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    It happens, especially common on borderline SAW applications that are pushed to the limit, even a 2mm prop change can mean the difference between a reliable ESC that works perfectly to one smoked out.

    I can get a boat from smoked out to ready to run including free of any smoke smell in about 24 hours. I've had some practice in the past on my SAW setups. Its only slightly worse to me than flooding the hull with saltwater, mainly because I will actually have to replace an ESC.

  10. #10
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    Maybe a good idea not to use these crappy 180's? The failure rate seems really high... so much for 1000amp burst

    Perhaps you guys should start attaching some additional cooling to them... more so than just that 1 cooling tube mod thru heatsink. Maybe attaching 2-4 more copper tubes onto the outside of the heatsink using some thermal epoxy if it's this hard to cool them down :)

  11. #11
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    Every failure I've had with the 180a ESC was self imposed. That quest for speed on a budget, especially at such a reasonable $80, makes it an ESC that is probably put in more less than ideal situations.

    The OP apparently had a water line plugged up or kinked. I don't know of any ESC that will work without cooling.

    Use it correctly in a reasonable setup, and it will probably be bullet proof and last for years. Stick it on a boat with a 4082 2,200kv on 6S with a 47mm prop, probably should go with a Swordfish.

  12. #12
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    The version 2 is a much better unit than the newest version. This kind of epic failure isn't the norm with these. At this price point I'm not sure what we expect. I mean $120 for 180 amps is super cheap. If I want bullet proof I need to bite the bullet and get an MGM.

    I finally got to run a Raider over the weekend. Pretty impressive IMO. Not sure what the burst is but I ran it in a P mono without baking it. Short run though. Felt smooth enough. Tom beat the snot out of the same unit in his P sport for 7 laps. 150amps seemed to be plenty. We've never actually calculated or logged the real amp draw on that setup so who knows.
    Noisy person

  13. #13
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    double post....
    Last edited by T.S.Davis; 07-19-2016 at 11:11 AM.
    Noisy person

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    Is there a difference between manufacturers? The current Turnigy Marine 120 I have in my 26" mono seems like there is no throttle curve, it's just on or off, would prefer something a little smoother, especially coming out of turns.
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD Eracer View Post

    Use it correctly in a reasonable setup, and it will probably be bullet proof and last for years. Stick it on a boat with a 4082 2,200kv on 6S with a 47mm prop, probably should go with a Swordfish.
    You got that right. The T-180 in my cat runs very cool on 4s, but its a hot setup on 6s. When I hit the water on 6s I pretty much assume there could potentially be a failure Lol. I wouldn't venture off and call them crappy ESC's, they are just borderline for some of our setups. I run extra tube in the heat sink, but when its going over 180A extra cooling probably isn't going to do much.

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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post

    I finally got to run a Raider over the weekend. Pretty impressive IMO. Not sure what the burst is but I ran it in a P mono without baking it. Short run though. Felt smooth enough. Tom beat the snot out of the same unit in his P sport for 7 laps. 150amps seemed to be plenty. We've never actually calculated or logged the real amp draw on that setup though so who knows.
    Did they run fairly cool? I think I may try one of these in my DF 29 mono. They seem to be holding up well so far for those that have used them

  17. #17
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    Thanks for the tips guys. This was actually a V1 unit bought years ago. Too bad I just ordered a V3 to replace it lol. I will get a swordfish after the V3 blows up hopefully doesn't catch the boat on fire ! From now on I'm blowing through my water line at start up!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mxkid261 View Post
    Did they run fairly cool? I think I may try one of these in my DF 29 mono. They seem to be holding up well so far for those that have used them
    Honestly, I didn't think to check the actual temperature. I don't want to lead you guys astray. It was warm out. The water was warm. The speedo was just warm like I would expect. Not all blistery like we sometimes get. It's usually when things get really hot that I reach for the temp gun.

    We'll likely see it run again tomorrow. I'll try to remember to check it proper.
    Noisy person

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mtwinste View Post
    Thanks for the tips guys. This was actually a V1 unit bought years ago. Too bad I just ordered a V3 to replace it lol. I will get a swordfish after the V3 blows up hopefully doesn't catch the boat on fire ! From now on I'm blowing through my water line at start up!
    Cut the 2 dinky caps off the battery leads and put a decent capacitor bank on it. I put the big Etti bank in my rivercat after my most recent v3 meltdown. Ya I blow through my water line before and after a run, and always check that I have water flow while running

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    Honestly, I didn't think to check the actual temperature. I don't want to lead you guys astray. It was warm out. The water was warm. The speedo was just warm like I would expect. Not all blistery like we sometimes get. It's usually when things get really hot that I reach for the temp gun.

    We'll likely see it run again tomorrow. I'll try to remember to check it proper.
    Cool ya its not a big deal but if you have your temp gun handy grab a few readings

  21. #21
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    Mtwinstie.
    Over the years I've had 3 of the V2 ESCs let go on 6s. Two like yours. The other just stopped.
    The limits were being pushed in big boats running wet in the turns.Totally my fault.
    The common denominator were Leopard motors that also fritzed at the same time. I've always felt that it was the motors that failed first causing the meltdown of the ESCs.

    Have you checked that the motor is still ok?
    With mine, when you turned them by hand they felt a bit squishy instead of positive cogging of the magnets. Like the rotor was dragging on the stator. But I pulled the rotors out & that wasn't the case.
    When power was applied to them, one just didn't work & the others just chattered back & forth, like it's lost a phase. But all the windings looked good.
    Any way, check the motor if you haven't already.

  22. #22
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    A motor with bad magnets will take out an ESC pretty quickly. All it takes is getting the motor too hot a few times - probably over 160*F will start to kill the magnets on budget motors. As they weaken the motor Kv goes up, eventually too high for the setup. Another explanation anyway.



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    I don't think HK180 does very well with 6 pole motors or partially burnt out ones... mine blew up on 6s with some very minimal partial load on them. Seems like a "sensitive" ESC. What can you expect for $80 though.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    A motor with bad magnets will take out an ESC pretty quickly. All it takes is getting the motor too hot a few times - probably over 160*F will start to kill the magnets on budget motors. As they weaken the motor Kv goes up, eventually too high for the setup. Another explanation anyway.



    .
    That's true, for sure. But the second motor was a new one to replace the first one. I even went down from 1600kv to 1250kv. In the same 36" mono with the same 447/3 prop, & a new 180A ESC.
    I think from memory it lasted 3 runs, Didn't get hot, then bang. Motor & ESC gone.
    Put a TP power motor in it & a new ESC & she ran fine 'till I sold it.
    I blame the Leopard motors.

    Dmitri100.
    The motors were only 4 pole not 6 pole.
    The rest of the 180's I have in my other race boats on both 4s & 6s are fine on TP, SSS, Nue, or HET motors.

  25. #25
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    Darn, I have a Leopard 4082 with 1450kv (used) and a T180 V2 (used) going in on 6s. I can only run up to a 43mm prop the way I have my rudder and strut set up though. Probably start out with 40mm and work up.
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  26. #26
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    I will check the motor after I get the new ECS installed. The Motor and the ESC had the exact same hours on them.

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    So I wired up the new ESC and powered it on and gave some throttle and the ESC immediately heated up super hot something started smoking and the motor would barely turn. I unplugged everything asap and took out the motor to throw it in the trash lol. So it was maybe the motor the burned up the ESC.

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  29. #29
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    Anyone have any suggestions on which motor to replace this in for my impulse 31 on 6s?

  30. #30
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    I hope that little excercise didn't damage your new ESC. If there was smoke as you say, I think it probably did.
    These are the motors I run in a couple of 6s boats, Which are larger hulls than the impulse. A good price and a free water jacket.

    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...p?prod=tp-4050

    But I feel that ther impulse is a bit small for a 6s set up. A 4s system is plenty for that hull.

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