HPR 010 Mono: Very Slow Build

[boredom.is.me]

I ordered some 1" polyethylene sheets. It's the same foam used to make pool noodles. I do have black noodles, but it's just an awkward shape. I figured I could use more area in a neater way with the sheet. My AUW should be just under 6kg (~13lb). What you see is 7.38kg worth of flotation, but that's only 3" thick. I can still fit another two narrower layers into the V.

I also got the ESC's finished. I just have to figure out how to cover it up. Maybe some heat shrink around the bullet with a dab of epoxy around the solder joint.

[boredom.is.me]

forgot the pics...

[boredom.is.me]

The esc trays have been made. The first picture is of course two bottoms, but it gives an idea of what it would look like with 40mm standoffs and a cover. The covers aren't a priority though.

I made an extra sled made, because what's the point of having a sled with only one pack.

I ordered some super high quality sleeving, enough to wrap each wire and waterline.

Then there was some test fitting. The trays were fitted with 6mm standoffs and tiny pieces of double sided tape. I'd like to move the esc's back to help with balance. With the esc's mounted in front of the motor mount bolts, the 11200mAh 6S2P is less than 10mm from max aft position to achieve a 30% balance. These are a little bigger than what it would run, but it is an available option. I moved a SINGLE esc back by about 45mm. That alone allowed the batteries to slide forward another 20mm or so. Keep in mind that this is not with the rear mounted hardware or the pound worth of flotation, most of which is under the deck.

Moving it back does require me change the way I made the cap bank to esc wires, but that's no biggie.

Would there be any issues with the motor wires running under the receiver? I pretty sure I can almost cut the esc motor wires in half if it stays in the rear position.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[boredom.is.me]

The batteries are in the most forward position in this pic. The total travel is 90mm from insertion. I'd say there is a safe 80mm though.

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[boredom.is.me]

Some trimming needs to be done around where the hull tapers (sides and bottom), but so far, it all fits good. I still have enough foam for another layer along with the 1.5" tubing. Another possibility is to place a smaller backing rod (same material) inside of the piping insulation tubes.

I was also able to get an idea for some basic paint from a body shop. I first spoke to the painter. We were both on the same page, and he understood that I would have been doing all of the body work and only wanted the actual paint. We even went over different types of primers that would fill in the slight imperfections that would still be present. But of course things change when the "finance guy" steps into the picture. Right away, he pulled the "you don't know anything" act. I let him go on about how it would have to be sanded down which would get carbon dust everywhere, which means that it would have to be isolated in the shop. He went on and on to the point where I just had to stop him. "There is fiberglass, gelcoat, and my own body work. If you make it down the carbon, you screwed up big time." (I can't be a salesman. Assuming every potential customer is clueless and talking down to them is never cool.) He said it would be a minimum of $600, even for an incredibly basic spray. Don't get me wrong. I understand that there is a lot of equipment and other overheads, but it's not worth it. I really just wanted a nice grey that I can't find in a can.

There aren't any pics, but the last bit of putty is on. After this sanding, it should be good for a second spray attempt.


EDIT:
Can anyone see the pictures? Everything from post 141 isn't showing up for me on my PC, but is there through Tapatalk on my phone.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[srislash]

Some trimming needs to be done around where the hull tapers (sides and bottom), but so far, it all fits good. I still have enough foam for another layer along with the 1.5" tubing. Another possibility is to place a smaller backing rod (same material) inside of the piping insulation tubes.

I was also able to get an idea for some basic paint from a body shop. I first spoke to the painter. We were both on the same page, and he understood that I would have been doing all of the body work and only wanted the actual paint. We even went over different types of primers that would fill in the slight imperfections that would still be present. But of course things change when the "finance guy" steps into the picture. Right away, he pulled the "you don't know anything" act. I let him go on about how it would have to be sanded down which would get carbon dust everywhere, which means that it would have to be isolated in the shop. He went on and on to the point where I just had to stop him. "There is fiberglass, gelcoat, and my own body work. If you make it down the carbon, you screwed up big time." (I can't be a salesman. Assuming every potential customer is clueless and talking down to them is never cool.) He said it would be a minimum of $600, even for an incredibly basic spray. Don't get me wrong. I understand that there is a lot of equipment and other overheads, but it's not worth it. I really just wanted a nice grey that I can't find in a can.

There aren't any pics, but the last bit of putty is on. After this sanding, it should be good for a second spray attempt.


EDIT:
Can anyone see the pictures? Everything from post 141 isn't showing up for me on my PC, but is there through Tapatalk on my phone.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

See them fine from my iPad

[boredom.is.me]

This poor thing never saw water. After the botched paint job, I lost motivation. Well I have been making slow progress over the past few months. Going back over things that could be changed and improved. Yesterday, I dropped the hull off at a paint shop yesterday. It will remain simple with a white bottom and grey top. The tear drop as well as the deck recess will be white as well.

[fweasel]

Wow, blast from the past. I had forgotten about this build. So many cool custom parts inside. Hope it gets to run sooner than later.

[boredom.is.me]

Almost there for real this time.

Not much to report. They are hoping to have it finished this weekend.

[boredom.is.me]

Good news and bad news. You can see the good news. The bad news is that the carbon decal for the windshield just couldn't conform to the compound curve. I don't want to paint the windshield on, so I'll design something else with smaller sections. I really want to keep that carbon look. Whenever that happens, I'll just come back and get another coat of clear thrown on it. Oh ya, all of the decals are under the clear coat.

I was really torn on where to put the HPR 010 decal. I didn't want it to be a symmetrical design, more of a signature, which is why I placed it along the teardrop rear edge. There is a slight extension beyond the teardrop, but I still have to place the antenna which should continue the teardrop to a "point".

I can't wait. I gave the painter a multicolor swatch and said, "give me something between these two. Make sure there is no warm tone to it. I want it cool." He nailed it! (My phone shows colors a little warmer than they are.)

[boredom.is.me]

Got her home. The clear went on this morning, so I'll give it a day or so before I really mess with it.

[boredom.is.me]

Not much major stuff for for today, but a bit of minor stuff.

The first thing was figuring out where to place the water outlets. I used little round stickers to show to options. The first is between the rear "N" in the name. Because of the very geometric oriented design of the font, the first N on the right side matches the location of the second N on the left side. Ultimately, I think I'll just put it behind the name.entirely.

I do not like chrome. I was able to find 6v waterproof lights premade as a complete unit to replace the ones I made. They do have tinted lenses, but the bezels are all black. And since they are 6v, I can run them straight through the on/off remote switch with the step down or resistor on the red. To add to the black lights, I ordered black water outlets as well. The antenna isn't chrome, so that can stay.

Speaking of antenna, I finally put that on.

I realized that I was using smaller 3mm id tubing so I ordered 4mm. I also ordered proper sized silicone o-rings for all of the external fittings. I have to replace the hardware for the stingers as I guess I used them somewhere else. It's a good chance to get the final pretty hardware.

I need to repin the front of the canopy. I technically never finished it up properly, but it was easier to remove them than it was to deal with the built up paint.

Aside from that, it was really just a bunch of edge work as a result of the paint building up.

[lilbigmacky]

Paint looks great. Did you take it to an auto painter?

[boredom.is.me]

Thanks. Yes a local body shop took care of it. It's all automotive grade paint.

I forgot the interior update. I chiseled out the mini threaded standoffs. They really didn't bond too well to the hull. It's a combination of not a lot of surface area, not the ideal surface (aluminum), and less than ideal glue. They really weren't strong enough for the job. This did leave spots where the sheen was ripped off of the layup. The new mounts are a bit different as they cover the entire perimeter of the esc trays. I'll be trying out "Zap Adhesives Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo" from OSE. The OSE description makes it sound good for the job so we'll see.

The lights are also coming from China, so that's going to be a Christmas upgrade.

[boredom.is.me]

After the windshield vinyl fight, I decided to order "carbon fiber" and florescent yellow pin striping in 3mm and 5mm widths (they came in pairs). The plan is a black windshield (paint) with a carbon frame. It would then get a clear coat. Here is a rough idea done with electrical tape. The yellow would just be for a little trim, but I wouldn't clear coat over it.

I'm wondering if I should do black or something lighter for the windshield color. I was looking at color changing vinyl at first, but didn't want to get into knifeless tapes or cutting.

I mocked up new esc covers. My cnc is down due to having to move, but that's not holding anything up. They will just be printed for now.

[fweasel]

You could pinstripe the windshield frame with the thin 3mm tape, mask off the rest of the canopy, and spray the windshield on with gloss black paint. Pull the tape and you'll be left with a white window frame. Personally, I think the canopies look sleeker when the window wraps further down the sides and tapers off.

I did this one free hand with pinstripe tape on my Mini Zonda
2018-08-15 00.15.22.jpg

[boredom.is.me]

The white outline is nice. I wouldn't apply that to this build, but definitely something to consider for the next. That should be something on the darker side, maybe a very dark grey and either bright blue or yellow.
Your double white strip is pretty much what I'm thinking about doing with the fluorescent yellow: the offset, tear drop wrap around, except a single stripe.
I do agree with the windshield wrap too. I feel like this boat is just difficult to take pictures of. It's wrapped pretty far back, and the taper is a lot shallower than it looks.

[boredom.is.me]

Why replace the aluminum parts with plastic? Well, I lost the two aluminum bits around the shaft entrance. It would also be a pain to remake them if they ever stripped, which isn't unlikely.

I forgot to design the signal wire passage way on the ESC mount, so I had to cut those out. No biggie.

The ESC mounts are in. I'm going to leave them to set up a bit more today, then will go back with a little more adhesive just for a little extra strength.

I did move the ESC's forward a little to account for the fact that I may want to go with 4082 motors in the future. Each if these outrunners is 310 vs the 450 per 4082

[fweasel]

The ESC mounts are awesome. Were those resin printed?

[Alfa Spirit]

Mitoot-SUPPO outrunner motors are awesome, incredible quality/price ratio, good choice the magnets are very strong.

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/10050...61a8218a4DC8CS

[boredom.is.me]

The ESC mounts are awesome. Were those resin printed?

:D They are nylon SLS printed (powder) from shapeways.

Mitoot-SUPPO outrunner motors are awesome, incredible quality/price ratio, good choice the magnets are very strong.

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/10050...61a8218a4DC8CS

The smaller version of those is exactly what I have. I went with the 3730 because of the 1580kv. There isn't much sense in the slight jump to the 3736, even if they came in the right kv. The largest is the 3740. The issue again is kv. They are either 1180kv or 1760kv. My prop size maxes out at 50mm which shouldn't be an issue for the 1760kv, but that's a lot of rpm on 6s. Going 1180kv would require new speed controllers as well as I would then need to run 8s.



I change how I'll wire the shared capacitor bank. I wish I had 14awg, but the 16awg shouldn't be a problem. It's only there to even out the voltage between both sides. You could say, but what about ripple?" Each ESC has two smaller caps and two much larger caps. The bank uses seven 1000uf caps. I also decided to ditch the 90 degree connector and solder the wire straight.

Since we're talking about wiring... I got the OSE 8mm bullet connectors, the ones that look like giant XT60/90. They are just way too overkill to justify the force it takes to work with them. To get around losing the anti-spark, I can just hook an extra connector tot he balance lead of one of the batteries to the capacitor bank. If anything, it's still easier than having an extra wire on the battery and ESC.

I didn't realize how massive the larger water outlet was. It's a good thing I made sure to order larger hose.


EDIT: Forgot to add the motor chart...

[Alfa Spirit]

If the motors are too hot contact Herve from Mini-Meca he can make a nice water cooled motor mount using your support mounts https://www.mini-meca-rc.com/74-supports-moteurs

[boredom.is.me]

I'm actually not worried about heat at all, but I will keep that in mind.


I plugged in the spark suppressor and nothing blew up. It uses a 50ohm 10W resistor (AA for size comparison). It's major overkill, but it's the best option that I have on hand. I tucked it under the battery tray with double sided tape. It uses the balance connector on the battery to charge. I have a plug between the cap bank and the spark suppressor. I also made a little cover to the balance plug. Of course everything is sleeved silicone wires.

[boredom.is.me]

I'm going to place the water outlets further back as well. I'll ha e the water enter from the front of the front of the esc. The bends are just easier. This routing will also work fine if I were to use water cooling motors.

It doesn't matter how many boats you've built, drilling holes never gets easier...

[boredom.is.me]

I just wanted to enjoy my boat. I wasn't looking for a speed demon or anything. I recently moved back to the Virgin Islands (which is why everything is taking forever to get to me), and word got out. Now people want my head. With that said, I'm don't know if these "baby outrunners" are going to cut it. That raised the question in my head. What am I really getting by going with larger motors at similar kv ratings? Extra mass to spin larger props or the same props at less current. I comfortably max out at 50mm.

This is all hypothetical talk of course. I went out yesterday fir a maiden run, but had a small leak. I knew it was going to leak from where it did, but wasn't expecting as much as it did. Ill be getting what I need ti make proper seals on Tuesday. It will either have its second attempt on either Saturday or Sunday.

[Alfa Spirit]

I think that 2 x 8S batteries and 1100kV or 1200kV motors is a better setup for 1,10 meter mono.

[boredom.is.me]

I'm not against that, but it would require replacing pretty much everything. That is not an option.

[Alfa Spirit]

So you want to keep the Seaking esc and the 6S batteries?

[Jesse J]

Dang, gorgeous build and talk about planning!

In the event you don?t get sufficient water flow, as I have found with those through hull pickups, these are a good option. Sold on Ose store.
I suspect your set up will appreciate a good cooling.

Great work!!

[fweasel]

In the event you don?t get sufficient water flow, as I have found with those through hull pickups, these are a good option. Sold on Ose store.
I suspect your set up will appreciate a good cooling.

Yep, if you can't find them in the water cooling section, search for boat anchors in the scale model accessory section.