HPR 010 Mono: Very Slow Build

[boredom.is.me]

Hey everyone,

This will be a very slow build. In fact, I don't even have the boat. I'm in communication with Hans at the moment about it. I won't be able to order till the 21st since I'm out of the country with no way to make a bank deposit...but moving on. I'm starting this early to get ideas, suggestions, and opinions (both positive and negative).

HPR 010 Mono:
- Carbon Kevlar Hybrid

Electronics:
- SSS 4082 2000kv (x2)
- Turnigy Marine 180A (x2)
- Turnigy 1259TG 16kg
- Turnigy Heavy Duty 5000mAh 4S 60C (x2 in Parallel)

Hardware:
- HPR Twin Drive Set
- Kintec 6 Inch Short Base Cat Rudder (possible)
- Custom Twin Motor Mount
- Custom Carbon/Aluminum Battery, Servo, Rx, and ESC Trays
- Push/Pull Linkages
- Stainless and Anodized Aluminum bolts/nuts/washers
- Castle 6.5mm Bullet Connectors

Extras:
- Running Lights
- Custom Trailer




Why I chose the SSS...
This isn't exactly a budget hull, but I really am not interested in having a saw boat or anything like that. I just want to have fun. With that said, Neu and Lehners are definitely not options. My choice for motors were Leopard, TP, and SSS. I decided on the SSS due to all the claims of how efficient and cool they run compared to the other two. In fact, Leopard is the overall worst of the three what all the reading I have done. The plus is that the SSS is actually the least expensive option. The 2000kv is also safe on 6s which would be fun for a quick sprint.

Motor Mount Advice...
The face plate and rear support will be made of 1/4" aluminum. I'll use M4 bolts to attach it to the side plates. I'm kind of lost on what to use for the side plates. I have three options. I can use aluminum, carbon, or carbon/kevlar. Aluminum could bend, takes a while to machine, and is the heaviest as I would more than likely use the same 1/4" stock. It is the cheapest. Carbon fiber could definitely handle it, but how thick is necessary? It cuts relatively easily. I was thinking about 3/16". It would be about 10x as much as the aluminum in cost. Carbon/Kevlar is stupid expensive so I would have to make it myself. I am uncertain of how it cuts. The strength is also a bit of a concern as making it wouldn't exactly be a perfected science like the manufacturers. I would use the glass panel method and build it up to approximately 3/16". It would match the hull as I can get the same weave cloth, but at the same time, that may not be "nice" or "cool". The side plates pictured below are 3/16". It is also 65mm spacing between motor centers which is subject to change.

TwinMount_1.jpg TwinMount_2.jpg


Kev

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Edit - Current Setup:

Electronics:
- Suppo/FC 3730 1580kv Outunner x2
- T180 ESC x2
- Turnigy 1259TG 16kg

Hardware:
- WD200 Ruder M (HPR 135) Rudder
- HPR Twin Drives
- Custom Carbon Servo Mount
- Custom Carbon Battery Sled
- Custom Carbon/Aluminum Motor Mount

[boredom.is.me]

Here is the battery sled, stuffing support, and trailer. Again, any advice on materials would be greatly appreciated.

I'll probably end up using three, possibly four, different material thicknesses so I have decided to try my hand at making my own sheets. Ordering a million different sizes is a bit much.

BatterySled_1.jpg TwinMount_3.jpg Trailer45_1.jpg

Please, if anyone feels my choice of whatever is a bad idea, please let me know.

[boredom.is.me]

I sent the payment yesterday, but I'm stilling waiting to hear back from Hans about a previous message.

[boredom.is.me]

It's shipping out next week!

[boredom.is.me]

After seeing a few recent "events", I'll just go ahead and stick with 6s. Staying with SSS, they have the 4092 available in 1400kv and 1650kv. I do want to keep it pretty conservative. Any suggestions/advice would be greatly appreciated.

[iridebikes247]

I would go with 1650, definitely. Props you should be good with 447s, I ran 447s in a twin cat with 1600kv leopards 4082s, sk180s and it was a 70 mph setup. I think this will be fast enough if you're looking for a conservative setup.

[boredom.is.me]

Awesome thanks. I got an estimate of about 2 weeks until they are back in stock.

Hopefully, I can start working on samples for the carbon sheets today. I'll start with 1.5-2mm for the ESCs and other accesories.

[boredom.is.me]

One thing has been driving me absolutely crazy. That is the spacing between my prop centers. The closer the prop centers are to eachother, the lower I can seat them. Without incorporating a pair of S bends, the closest I can comfortably get the motors together in the double mount is 52mm. That leaves enough for up to 50mm jackets with an extra 2mm of wiggle.

The largest prop I could ever fathom running would be a 50mm. That's damn near touching with that kind of separation. I'll probably just stick with a pair of 45mm props.

What effect does this have on the rudder?

[boredom.is.me]

Update:
- The hull is in customs.
- I'll hopefully be getting the rudder from WD200-ModellBau, which is the original maker for HPR's rudders. It's less than half the cost direct, which I don't quite understand the markup. I wasn't at all trying to be a cheap skape as this was an accidental discovery but damn... It will not come with the hydraulics, but I don't think they would fit properly even with a mild standoff on the rudder. Unfortunately, they are closed till the 8/21.
- I've decided to skip out on trying to make my own cf sheets. I've shifted ideas around to bring everything down to only two thicknesses.
- The aluminum for the motor and accessory mounts is on the way.
- I may go with the Swordfish Pro 220 ESC's over the T180. They would give more headroom, are lighter, and are easier and potentially cleaner to mount.

[RunningBeer]

Hi Boredom is me, I have built a twin DF mono with SSS4082 2200KV on 2x 4S. I wanted the motors at 45mm centers so had to make a custom twin cooling jacket and mount. The motor mount I made out of 5mm 100mm ali channel. without the struts going below the water line, you have to work out what size prop you think you can turn with your power. I'm pulling a max of 150 amps on 3 blade 42mm props. with the way the angle works on the hull, you will find that the bigger the props, the deeper they will be in the water, but the further apart they will be. As you have mentioned, the wider out the rudder is mounted, the more effect it has on the hull when turning, and it has to be very long to reach the water turning one way. I made a little mount and attached mine to one of the struts. The twin mono is an elusive beast to get going well but enormously rewarding with sharp turning both ways. You can also run twins quite loose as the torque isn't trying to roll the boat when it leaves the water. There's some photos on my page here of my PirateIMGP0766.jpgIMGP0763.jpgIMGP0771.jpgIMGP0767.jpgIMGP0768.jpg

[boredom.is.me]

Thank you very much for your input! The hull will be here in a few days. Then I'll be able to get a real perspective.

And like you said, I really want to build it as a twin just for the satisfaction. I'm not looking to race or set any records.

[RunningBeer]

Hi, this is a pic I drew up when I was designing my twin pirate. The small circles are the strut positions exiting the transom at 42mm centers and 55mm centers. The two sets of bigger circles are the two props ( 42 and 55mm). I was either going to do a 4s system with about 42mmprops or a 6S system with the bigger props. If you look at the sketch you will see the larger props go about 5mm deeper....Remember if the struts are parallel, prop depth is kinda dependent on prop size so you want your system to be able to push the props you want. I'm pulling 150 amps max with the 2x4s system and I can fit the rear batt. pack between the tubes. If I built this boat again I would go for 2x 5S and maybe 45mm props. But I am still very happy with itIMGP0796.jpg

[boredom.is.me]

I got the hull today. I'm not impressed.

[axel]

why?

[boredom.is.me]

Out of respect, I will not post any pictures yet. (Ya, I took a crap ton.) For starters, the seams are pretty terrible, at least BOTH of my $76 Daytona 37" from Fightercat were externally better. I thought I'd at least get bolts, nuts, and no rust with my $260 hardware. There was quite a bit more. But like the pictures, I'm going to wait for a response before I expose the actual issues.

What's disappointing me is that I have never heard of a single negative for all the years I've known about HPR. It might not seem like much, but this was honestly one of my dreams from when I first started to venture into boats. It wasn't cheap, but I finally made it happen...I think.

I can't be all negative though. The interior is gorgeous! In fact, it's everything I expected. The hull is also incredibly strong.

[boredom.is.me]

The rudder is on the way.

I started working on some of the mounting hardware. I don't seem to have any luck lately as all of my cuts have completely screwed up lately. The mounting face was the only piece I was able to salvage. I'll try again today. I still have to make a drill jig for the sides of the mount. That is what I'm really nervous above. I haven't done any side drilling yet.

It has also been a week since I heard from Hans. I do a lot of things, but composite body work is not one of them. How do I fill in a 7"x1" recession in the side of the hull? I'm scared of it just peeling away. Quite a few other spots require heavy sanding and filler as well...
http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/Ke...?sort=3&page=1

[Tamelesstgr]

What are you using to machine the brackets, looks darn good by my standards.

[boredom.is.me]

Thanks. I'm using a CNC shark (which is an utter piece of crap). I tried to apply a two sided bevel which sort of worked. The alignment is very hard to achieve when flipping the model even though it's bolted down and designed as a mirror. It came out usable, but not nearly as nice as it should have been. I'm going to focus on making the other pieces in 1/8" before coming back to the mount.

[Espresso]

Why is your hatch opening partially cut out? Did you opt it like this?

[StevenBryant]

In Europe we fit flood chamber to self right the boat, I presume that's why it's not cut out on this boat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[boredom.is.me]

Why is your hatch opening partially cut out? Did you opt it like this?

Not at all. The front edge is a safe 9mm at the most narrow part.

In Europe we fit flood chamber to self right the boat, I presume that's why it's not cut out on this boat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't even think about that, but who would put a flood chamber on a boat like this?



Here is the difference between a good day and a bad day. Now I just have to tap it. There will be one more similar piece for the rear strut supports. I'm hoping I can trade what I got for the matching set like what's in the picture, but I don't know if they even work on the mono.

produkte_hpr_115_antrieb_1.jpg

[Tamelesstgr]

Wow, that is quite a difference, I looked up that machine, it's not cheap, but is it tailored more towards woodworking?

[boredom.is.me]

I have the original version which is no longer shown. The machine is made for very light duty work. Even hardwoods would stress it. I got this one for a steal, but if I could make my money back on a new build I would, but I can't afford to sink $2k into it with no return. The mark up on these machines are asinine. I'm sure I can build the Shark for $1000, but they want to charge $2,500 (or something like that). I get that they have design time and a few resources in it, but it's not something that calls for that extreme of a price. Not only that, but it was designed by engineers. I went to school for engineering and let me tell you that that is not good. Anyone who actually uses a tool will find it's flaws way quicker than a CAD program will. But I learned enough off of it to know what not to do.

I've been designing my own. Here are 1x2, 2x2, and 2x4, all of which actually exceed nominal travel by about 4" on x/y axis. Integrated vacuum table, proper spindle, proper ball screws, some day...

Ok I'm finished ranting.

[boredom.is.me]

I have a lot to learn but you can be sure that I am. I'll probably redo the transom backing plate since I messed up the two upper holes on the transom side. All I need is to just put nuts, but I don't plan on half-@$$ing it.

I can also use the two "pass through" holes as a mounting platform for something else so we'll see.
I wanted to do this for a few reasons.
1) Everything will stay parallel during install.
2) It provides a better bond of clamp on the mounting points.
3) I shouldn't need lock nuts.

I will also cut 2mm depron gaskets to fill any gaps and help seal it.

[Tamelesstgr]

Man that is slick, nice job on planning it out.

[boredom.is.me]

Thanks, I learned from you guys!

[StevenBryant]

I didn't even think about that, but who would put a flood chamber on a boat like this?
[/QUOTE]

Somebody who want to race the boat in Europe or someone who wants the boat to self right



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[boredom.is.me]

Axel and I were talking on the side and he made a suggestion to use an outrunner to save weight. I do like the idea of an overall lighter build. He initially suggested the Scorpion 2300kv Watercooled on 5s. I want to stay on 6s though. There really aren't too many options though. I've narrowed it down to the Gartt HF500 1600kv (<favored) and the Turnigy T600 1400kv. I can't find the Suppo/Fightercat 3730 1580kv anywhere. I sent Jason (Fightercat) a message.

[axel]

have a look here

http://justgorc.com/zencart/index.ph...ort=20a&page=2

[boredom.is.me]

Thanks!

Man that sight is so sketchy, but I went ahead and ordered the "1850kv". I have no idea how long it will take, but I'm in no rush. The motors were originally $45 each from FC, but the total was $65 ($25 for shipping).

Any advice on what filler to use to fix the exterior of the hull? I'm scared of it just peeling away.