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Thread: ML Boatworks RSX310 , My 1st Outrigger design ever! 31", P/ P-ltd FE Rigger!

  1. #31
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    First test kit has been ordered!
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by cybercrxt View Post
    first test kit has been ordered!
    nice! :)
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  3. #33
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    And he cut it today! Already got the invoice. Looks like this thing is going to be pretty inexpensive to offer. That is a huge plus!
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  4. #34
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    Like it a lot! Thinking a 3683 2200kv Scorpion motor unless its for limited classes?? I should have read more.

    Scorpion just came out with a few new cool boat in runners.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    There's something explicably satisfying about building a wood boat. From kit or from scratch. There's just a little a bit of extra ........pride? Can't put my finger on it.
    Craftsman that build and successfully race their wood boats may show some pride however, those of us that do build woodies are just a different breed all together I think. Maybe more nostalgic than proud. Keeping old past time's alive. I built my first blue blaster from plans in 86'. Was there a FE Boat magazine back then? They were German plans I got from a friend.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  6. #36
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    Ray, can you imagine how satisfying it has to be for Mike? Designs and builds himself for that whole authorship factor. Then have other people build them, race them, and experience some success with them. Has to be very satisfying. He makes a few bucks sure. It's a business but the time it takes to actually design one the way Mike does is likely never recovered. So there's more too it than just $$$$.

    Thanks Mike. Keep do'n what yer do'n. We appreciate the effort.
    Noisy person

  7. #37
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    Thanks guys. Yeah, last I checked, if I had to pay to have these designs done at my current day job bill rate, I would have spent over $100,000 in design fees to a company, haha. Wish I could get paid for that! Yes, I love getting emails, or calls from people saying how much fun they have had with their build, and running it. Sport boaters are my main customers, and a lot of them just get out with their kids and have a good time...Nothing better than that!
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    Ray, can you imagine how satisfying it has to be for Mike? Designs and builds himself for that whole authorship factor. Then have other people build them, race them, and experience some success with them. Has to be very satisfying. He makes a few bucks sure. It's a business but the time it takes to actually design one the way Mike does is likely never recovered. So there's more too it than just $$$$.

    Thanks Mike. Keep do'n what yer do'n. We appreciate the effort.
    For a brief time I had the same satisfaction working on the 'Bow' skyscraper.

    I worked in MasterCam to create the tool pathing to cut the pieces you see in a diamond pattern on the building's exterior. My first CAD/CAM job and it was a Bear.
    I'd like to get back into it when I'm healthier.

    thebowskyscraper1_thumb1.jpg
    Nortavlag Bulc

  9. #39
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    The kit and all my hardware arrived today! The only thing left to get is a motor, and turn fin. Not sure on either of those yet..but I have time to figure that out.

    I already made some changes to the sponsons based on a friend in the knows recommendations. Added dihedral to the outside sponson, which I had at zero (not sure what I was thinking, every other boat I have designed has dihedral on the outside..guess I thought riggers didnt need it!) and changed the AoA on the turn fin side sponson. Upped it a half a degree over the outside sponson. This will help keep the turn fin from sucking down on the inside sponson due to its extra drag. These are changes I can change on the fly with my test build, so no big deal! I will start building soon! Mike
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  10. #40
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    Mike, do you want to try one those new stainless I've been raving about? If you can draw it in the shape you want he can make it to fit dead on. Something you could offer with the boat if you find something that works.
    Noisy person

  11. #41
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    Sure! I dont know what they look like as I have not seen your posts about them. Link? But cool. that would be a great start!
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  12. #42
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    Doesn't matter what mine look like. They're not mine either. Our club is full of skilled people. The guy making them Kevin, is pretty darned sharp. If you can design what you want he can make it happen. I gave him a fin for the scale and told him "just like this with a bit more hook" and a couple few days later he had it in my hands.

    I put the new fin on my T Plus scale and it's the first time I could actually get around the course on our tiny pond. Used to have to bag off because I couldn't hold a line to save my life.

    I'll check with Kevin and check to see if it's okay that I pass his contact info along to you.

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ntial-new-fins
    Noisy person

  13. #43
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    Ok cool, sounds good! Thanks man.
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  14. #44
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    So I spend a couple hours...maybe 2...last night, and got a LOT done. The tub is done, and ready for epoxy and rear shoe sheeting, and the sponson frames are done, and ready to basswood sticks, and sheeting. This thing is a breeze, and I have really high hopes for how its going to run! I cannot wait! So...let the build begin!

    First, I found my center tub parts:



    And its really as simple as taking the matching number on the frame, and locking it into the floor pan. Note, the transom and box should be done last, as they do not touch the flat board naturally. From frame 2 back to 1, it has a kick up, so take your time. And the front raised up 1/4" where the quarter round will go. Everything is so simple to figure out:



    As you can see in the last pic, and this pic, you start lining the corners with 1/8" basswood sticks. I use a piece of angle aluminum along the outside of the tub to ensure the side plates stay in line with the floor pan from front to back..



    Shows the mid rod support and sticks installed:



    You can see the frame 2A and 2B in this pic, and more sticks. The frame 2A is just slightly higher than 2B along the bottom, this allows for you to bend the floor pan up toward the transom frames number 1. 2A is mainly just a floor support for the back floor pan.
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  15. #45
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    Now, I started lining the top of the tub with 1/8" sticks, and you can see in the background, I have CA'ed the hatch liner to the hatch. This supports the cowling and rear hatch cover.



    More upper sticks installed:



    Now that all the upper 1/8" sticks are installed, its time to install the top deck sheeting. It almost interlocks against the basswood sticks and the hatch under liner. Dry fit it first, and make sure you are happy with fitment before gluing.



    Now find your rear she frames...Here they are...I forgot the rear frame in this pic, but you will see it in another pic in a sec.

    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  16. #46
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    I first slide my inside edge plate up through the floor pan slots. Be careful, the slots are tight, and thin. If you break one of the floor pan extentions free, dont panic, it is easy to reglue, and later epoxy solid. Just take your time!

    I started with frame CR and CL to square up things:



    Now you can see all the frames are installed, and everything is CA'ed in to place. I again, used my angle aluminum along the inside edge to keep the ply square to the floor pan surface..very easy!



    Another angle:


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  17. #47
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    I then dry fitted my sponson framework. Woke up early this morning and actually put them on my granite, and glued them up square. I did this even with the Zippkits Long 5/16" rod supports installed by just laying the sponson frames on one corner of the granite, allowing the tube supports to overhand the edges..it worked great!

    Here are some dirty pics of the sponsons...more very very soon!









    In typical ML Boatworks fashion, the inside sponson top will stick up higher than the finished sponson top deck sheeting. Should help keep airflow on the sponson in the turns, and look really cool while doing it!
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  18. #48
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    I found a Tyndall 1/8th scale fin in the garage this morning..this may just work well.



    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  19. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by cybercrxt View Post
    I found a Tyndall 1/8th scale fin in the garage this morning..this may just work well.



    I'm thinking you may want to make provisions to mount it back further... I would suspect it'll need to be mounted a bit behind the ride-pads... Back more towards the rear boom.

    Looking GREAT, Mike!
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  20. #50
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    That fin is pretty thick for light rigger. I texted Kevin with a note to give you a ring.

    Mike, can you give us a close up of how you did the boom tube in the sponson. I've done receivers with brass tube. I've not done anything I liked though. It's sort of a "that should work I guess" kind of thing for me.
    Noisy person

  21. #51
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    I talked to Don about turn fin location, he said leading edge of the fin needs to be at the sponson heal. I will make it all adjustable tho. Its all up in the air right now until I get it running, haha. Also, the sponsons will not be mounted wide like a JAE, more like a crapshooter style width. I think that wide stance is why the JAE fin is so far back, and so big. Yes, this fit is kind huge for this boat. I need something smaller I suspect. Just nothing in hand yet. Here are the boom tube supports I used for the sponsons:

    http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=561

    You have to install the front one before glueing on the outside sponson shear tho, as there is not enough room to slide it in once that shear is installed! That is where a brass open ended tube would be easier, BUT these aluminum tubes are closed ended, so no water can get inside the sponson..AND the boom tube length, and squareness to the tub will never be questioned, as it has a dead end stopping point!
    Last edited by cybercrxt; 06-10-2016 at 09:50 AM.
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  22. #52
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    Also, I used these boom tubes from Zippkits:

    http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=304

    And you can get the collars for the tube side from either zippkits, or mcmaster carr...


    http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=469

    and from Mcmaster carr:

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#6157K32

    Part number:
    6157K32
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  23. #53
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    OSE Order so far:

    ros-spdr-005 Speedmaster Mini Rudder Assembly
    Rudder Style: - Hydro Rudder 1.5" Setback
    ros-spds-005 Speedmaster Sport 20 Strut
    Strut Style: - Round Bottom-spds-005-R-Hydro -
    ose-187L OSE .187 cable system for 3/16" props
    aero-sts-187 STS 187 (Shaft Tube Seals)
    dh-ks-brass-tb K & S Brass Tubing
    tubing size: - pn#8132 : 9/32" Diameter
    And 1/4" brass tube for the stuffing tube itself. The 9/32" tube above is for a doubler near the motor to add the shaft tube seal from Aeromarine, STS 187
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  24. #54
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    Now, I need motor suggestions. I am going to run my trusting water cooled converted Castle Ice 200a controller, 4s Hyperion 5400mah pack...Just need a motor????
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  25. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by cybercrxt View Post
    Now, I need motor suggestions. I am going to run my trusting water cooled converted Castle Ice 200a controller, 4s Hyperion 5400mah pack...Just need a motor????
    Are you thinking P-Hydro??

    TP 4050-5D (2310KV) Would be a SOLID choice. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...p?prod=tp-4050
    TP 4050-3Y (2100KV) IF a little lower KV is your thing.

    LEOPARD 4082-1.5Y (2200KV) http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=leo-4082

    It's also hard to be a typical Castle/Neu 1415 1Y.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  26. #56
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    Yeah, I like something in the 2200-2700 kv range actually. I love the Castle/Neu 1512, 2650kv. I saw that TP4050-5D 2310kv...Do you think more than a 74mm can is needed tho???
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  27. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by cybercrxt View Post
    I saw that TP4050-5D 2310kv...Do you think more than a 74mm can is needed tho???
    "Needed"? Perhaps not...

    DESIRED, Hell Yes!

    For reference, the Castle 1415 1Y is 82mm...

    I don't think the extra torque will hurt you, and your ESC shouldn't have any issues with it.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  28. #58
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    Just ordered the rest of what I needed from OSE!

    tp-4050TP Power Brushless 4050 Motor
    winds/rpm: - 2310Kv 5D- -FREE Water Jacket! Pick Size?: - ham-TP4050 Jacket(40mmX60mm long)

    ose-82000Carbon, Heavy duty water cooled mount for Leopard 40mm Motors
    color of metal parts: - Silver color mount and motor ring- -

    ose-tubing-1/4-clearOSE Large 1/4" Silicone Tubing
    length: - 6 foot piece

    aero-2011Aluminum Large Water Outlet x2

    aero-2014Aluminum Bulkhead Fitting
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

  29. #59
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    Mike if you would like a Turn Fin for this hull let me know.
    You could give me a shape and I can make it for you if you would like.
    Very easy for me to make adjustments as I laser cut them and use a CNC Roll Machine for the Hook.
    I make the fins out of 304-2B Stainless, Thicker on top for the strength and thinner for the part of the blade that is in the water.
    A few pics of the Fins I make for the P-Sport Hydro.
    PM me if your interested..Kevin
    Attached Images Attached Images

  30. #60
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    Kevin, I will send you a PM. I really like the look of that P-sport hydro fin. I may want to try and include a nice fin with the kits...we should talk for sure!
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

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