Darin's Pro Boat Zelos 36 Race Prep

[Darin Jordan]

Pulled the Zelos 36 down off the shelf to start getting it ready for the Nationals, coming up this August.

At the 2-Lap in March, I ran it with these huge 40mm Voracity motors and found a couple of things that needed attention.

1) The motor mounts would "shift" in a hard flip.
2) The stub-shafts were too short to fit the new generation of ABC Props.

Figured I'd document my attempts to fix both issues.

First, the motor mounts.

The black base material that holds the captured motor mount nuts is made of a polymer. As such, it's pretty slippery. Snugging down a piece of shiny, anodized aluminum doesn't provide an interface that promotes holding the motor mount location once a 350g+ sized motor is attached.

The REAL solution would be to install a fully supported front/rear motor mount. However, being lazy, and not wanting to battle getting a motor in/out something like that, I thought I'd try a "quick-fix" first to see if that would work for now.

I milled the motor mount a tad to create some serrations that will hopefully provide some "bite" into the base material.

20160519_204141.jpg

I then cleaned the base material really well with some Lacquer Thinner, and applied some of the thin aluminum adhesive backed duct sealing material, commonly used on dryer vents, etc. Has a very sticky and thin adhesive on one side, and soft aluminum on the other. I'm hoping that the adhesive doesn't get "slippery", and that the serrations help it all to "bite" into the base material enough to hold everything in place.

20160519_191708.jpg

20160519_191837.jpg

Finally, I installed some larger diameter washers to help spread the load a little more when I tighten this thing down.

20160519_193227.jpg

Not sure all this is actually going to work, but figured it wouldn't hurt to try. If not, I'll move onto phase 2... more suitable large-motor mounts.

[Darin Jordan]

Next upgrade was to new flexshafts.

As usual, OSE had what I needed in stock, and I must say, these .187 x 3/16" shafts, with 3.125" long stubs on them, are some of the best quality shafts I've used. Not sure where OSE gets them done, but they are VERY true, and very nicely made.

20160519_182205.jpg

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I settled on 1.5" of available mounting length to locate the drive-dog. This should allow me to use the larger ABC 17-degree+ Rake props, if desired, without having to modify their hubs.

I used my Mill to machine some flats for the set-screws (first time I've ever done this... usually I just use my Dremel and a cutoff wheel. No more. This just looks too nice!)

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With the flats milled, I simply mount the drive dogs with some Sleeve Retainer and set-screw in place. (Before you say it, think about it... when have you EVER had to remove a drive-dog from a stub?? And, if you need to, you can heat it to release the retainer.)

20160519_184230.jpg

[Rafael_Lopez]

Great Job on the motor mounts Darin. I feel you on not wanting to spend the time removing the composite motor base. Some guys specified way too much adhesive be used to mount them in place. I havent had an issue with the shorter 40x68mm motors moving the alum. mount around after a crash. Even that crazy cartwheel crash that was in my last video. I did use some larger 3mm fender washer though to help distribute more pressure around the screw hole. That may have helped. I don't have the fancy equipment you have, so if I see this issue, I'll have to bust out the dremil.

[Darin Jordan]

I don't have the fancy equipment you have, so if I see this issue, I'll have to bust out the dremil.

OR... You can just say the word and I'll mill up a couple of mounts for you... took about 5-min each. :)

[Darin Jordan]

GRRRRRRR.... Was working on a little top-secret project to test out on my Zelos last night, and had it setting on it's side on the workbench while some epoxy layup set. Stepped out to help my wife with something. Came back in 20-min later and found the whole thing laying upside down ON THE FREAKING FLOOR! Clearly landed on the rudder on the way down...

Time to get out the epoxy and laminating materials....

Just whining. I'll get it back in shape. :)

20160706_200345.jpg

I have already taped over the crack, pulled it all back into alignment with clamps, and flooded the transom with epoxy. That set and filtered through the crack, so technically it's back solid again. Going to laminate a layer of Carbon over the inside of the transom, however, just to solidify the seam.

[Banzee]

GRRRRRRR.... Was working on a little top-secret project to test out on my Zelos last night, and had it setting on it's side on the workbench while some epoxy layup set. Stepped out to help my wife with something. Came back in 20-min later and found the whole thing laying upside down ON THE FREAKING FLOOR! Clearly landed on the rudder on the way down...

Time to get out the epoxy and laminating materials....

Just whining. I'll get it back in shape. :)

20160706_200345.jpg

I have already taped over the crack, pulled it all back into alignment with clamps, and flooded the transom with epoxy. That set and filtered through the crack, so technically it's back solid again. Going to laminate a layer of Carbon over the inside of the transom, however, just to solidify the seam.

Look like 1216 need some love ! Sorry for you !!

[Darin Jordan]

Alright... all fixed up. Everything is reassembled, reinforced, and ready to rock! Too bad nobody else has entered Q-CAT at the Nats. Heck, even Q-Offshore is on the bubble. Sheesh, People... what gives?

Anyhow, the final step to getting any race boat ready to race is, of course... adding the decals... So... I guess I'm ready. :)

20160710_132343.jpg

[Titan.]

Beutifull boat! How did you flode the transom? Did you heat upp the epoxy? Did you mix it with fiber glas?

My transom broke yesterday
My rudder and one prop hitt samthing in the water i supose it was a smal peas of tree..

[Titan.]

[Darin Jordan]

Beutifull boat! How did you flode the transom? Did you heat upp the epoxy? Did you mix it with fiber glas?

Well... I taped over the outside of the transom to cover the crack and used clamps to hold it all back together. Then I mixed some epoxy with out anything else in it and poured it into the transom to allow it to seep up into the crack, standing the boat up vertically while it set.

Then, I cut out some carbon and fiberglass "patches" to laminate over the inside of the transom. This shows one of those in place.

20160707_182029.jpg

I then laminated that in place with more epoxy.

If you don't have direct access, then do the first part, and then, after that cures, mix some more epoxy, but put in some milled fiber (chopped up fiberglass or carbon) and flood the area with that. Should provide some structure. Be mindful of the hardware mounting. You may have to remove the hardware and then redrill some of the holes. I just laminated right over everything, figuring that either 1) the lamination would hold the nuts captive and in place so I could then screw/unscrew the hardware without needing a nut-driver, or 2) I will need to, at some point, drill these out and replace the nuts inside with something else.

I'm hoping for #1...

[Titan.]

Hehe i see hoping fore 1 aswell then

I allreddy take the hardwear off and my fingers are to faaaat to com down to the transom thats waye i ask:)
I hawe put fiber in the rest of the boat but it was the trany that brake down..
So i will pour it down and hope for the best
Thanx for the help!

[REDLINE1]

Pulled the Zelos 36 down off the shelf to start getting it ready for the Nationals, coming up this August.

At the 2-Lap in March, I ran it with these huge 40mm Voracity motors and found a couple of things that needed attention.

1) The motor mounts would "shift" in a hard flip.
2) The stub-shafts were too short to fit the new generation of ABC Props.

Figured I'd document my attempts to fix both issues.

First, the motor mounts.

The black base material that holds the captured motor mount nuts is made of a polymer. As such, it's pretty slippery. Snugging down a piece of shiny, anodized aluminum doesn't provide an interface that promotes holding the motor mount location once a 350g+ sized motor is attached.

The REAL solution would be to install a fully supported front/rear motor mount. However, being lazy, and not wanting to battle getting a motor in/out something like that, I thought I'd try a "quick-fix" first to see if that would work for now.

I milled the motor mount a tad to create some serrations that will hopefully provide some "bite" into the base material.

20160519_204141.jpg

I then cleaned the base material really well with some Lacquer Thinner, and applied some of the thin aluminum adhesive backed duct sealing material, commonly used on dryer vents, etc. Has a very sticky and thin adhesive on one side, and soft aluminum on the other. I'm hoping that the adhesive doesn't get "slippery", and that the serrations help it all to "bite" into the base material enough to hold everything in place.

20160519_191708.jpg

20160519_191837.jpg

Finally, I installed some larger diameter washers to help spread the load a little more when I tighten this thing down.

20160519_193227.jpg

Not sure all this is actually going to work, but figured it wouldn't hurt to try. If not, I'll move onto phase 2... more suitable large-motor mounts.

What do you think of this stuff for sticking on the motor mount to prevent shifting
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-2-in-x...35NA/100132176
Had a flip today and both of the motors moved

[REDLINE1]

Pulled the Zelos 36 down off the shelf to start getting it ready for the Nationals, coming up this August.

At the 2-Lap in March, I ran it with these huge 40mm Voracity motors and found a couple of things that needed attention.

1) The motor mounts would "shift" in a hard flip.
2) The stub-shafts were too short to fit the new generation of ABC Props.

Figured I'd document my attempts to fix both issues.

First, the motor mounts.

The black base material that holds the captured motor mount nuts is made of a polymer. As such, it's pretty slippery. Snugging down a piece of shiny, anodized aluminum doesn't provide an interface that promotes holding the motor mount location once a 350g+ sized motor is attached.

The REAL solution would be to install a fully supported front/rear motor mount. However, being lazy, and not wanting to battle getting a motor in/out something like that, I thought I'd try a "quick-fix" first to see if that would work for now.

I milled the motor mount a tad to create some serrations that will hopefully provide some "bite" into the base material.

20160519_204141.jpg

I then cleaned the base material really well with some Lacquer Thinner, and applied some of the thin aluminum adhesive backed duct sealing material, commonly used on dryer vents, etc. Has a very sticky and thin adhesive on one side, and soft aluminum on the other. I'm hoping that the adhesive doesn't get "slippery", and that the serrations help it all to "bite" into the base material enough to hold everything in place.

20160519_191708.jpg

20160519_191837.jpg

Finally, I installed some larger diameter washers to help spread the load a little more when I tighten this thing down.

20160519_193227.jpg

Not sure all this is actually going to work, but figured it wouldn't hurt to try. If not, I'll move onto phase 2... more suitable large-motor mounts.

What do you think of this stuff for sticking on the motor mount to prevent shifting
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-2-in-x...35NA/100132176
Had a flip today and both of the motors moved