First real test run of a glass version of the Spartan. Setting it up to race in our EB mono class.
Neu 1521/1.5D, Turnigy 180A ESC, CNC 4514 prop. 6s lipo.
First real test run of a glass version of the Spartan. Setting it up to race in our EB mono class.
Neu 1521/1.5D, Turnigy 180A ESC, CNC 4514 prop. 6s lipo.
Last edited by 785boats; 05-18-2016 at 02:23 AM.
See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320
That looks really good !
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
Thanks Todd.
She sits pretty well for its first big test run. A bit wet in the corners. But we'll get that sorted.
See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320
Very impressive! Nice driving too!
32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was
Very nice, I love the sparkles!!
Thanks guys.
Race water will be a different prospect though.
See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320
Very consistent..don't think its wet in the corners...congrats Gill
GO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
www.grsboats.com.br
Could be perfect in race water
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
Hi 785boats
looks great. could you post a link to the eBay source?
I hope you are right Todd. The deeper V might cut through the chop better than the shallower V hulls.
zooma.
Here ya go.
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/yamumsrac...p2047675.l2562
See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320
Thanks Gill.
It just seems to drop the nose a bit & slow down in the turns.
I have a 160mm rudder blade on it that has had 25mm cut off it. I think I might take another 6mm off it for the next run.
See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320
Nice and smooth which is a first i've seen for a spartan... how do you waterproof your hatch ?
Hi there, Newbie here. How do i compute Ampere requirement of a motor for esc matching? Does it also mean that between a 4s and a 6s it would better to use a 6s pack since
it will lower the ampere load?
Hi Dimitry.
I made a 1/16" ply sub hatch which is simply taped down under the main hatch. The slot where the tongue of the main hatch goes in is covered with a strip of tape. A small slit is made in it & the tongue is forced through it. That makes a sort of a gasket all around the tongue.
At the moment the main hatch is held on with some tape across the back but I am going to fit some mechanical hatch locks to get rid of the tape.
Here's a pic of the sub hatch.
See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320
Most motors have a "Max Amps" rating in their specs. I generally use an ESC of twice that rating or a Seaking 180A ESC, which ever comes first. Nearly all my boats have the Seaking or Turnigy 180A ESC.
If the same size prop is used for both 4s & 6s, the 6s set up will draw more current because of the higher load on the prop due to the higher revs.
So a smaller prop is used on the 6s than on the 4s.
For example:
I race a 36" mono with a 1600kv motor in both our 4s class & 6s class. The only thing I change is the prop. A 452/3 blade for 4s & a 447/3 blade for 6s.
The total current draw is pretty much the same because both packs have about 25% - 30% left in them after a race.
I hope to be able to do something similar with this boat too.
See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320
How would I know or estimate the amount in Ampere I am consuming in my esc since there is no way we put an ammeter on the boat and visually see it while in the water?
This question is just to know whether i have enough allowance on the esc to stay away from smoking it.
Im comparing the esc like a circuit breaker used in my house. If I have an appliance that is consuming 3000 watts, to get the ampere rating I divide it with the AC supply in volts.
Like 3000 divided by 220 volts = 13.63 Amperes. Is this applicable on computing Ampere rating on RC boats to?
Example: Leopard 4082 2200 it says on the specs 2400 watts. Is it right to compute it this way 2400 divided by 14.8 volts (4s) = 162.16 Amperes and 2400 divided by 22volts (6s) = 109Amps.?
Last edited by Edwin David; 05-20-2016 at 01:13 PM.
Yes, assuming actual voltages and amps under load, not nominal values. The best way to estimate your setup's average amp draw is to start with a full pack, run the boat as normal timing the run - use a stopwatch, not an egg timer. Recharge the pack and note how many amps you put back to bring it to full charge. Then use the Amp Draw calculator here: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/conversion.htm
.
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Visited the link. I think it will explain to me everything that i need to know about electrics on RC Boats.
Lots of factors to consider.
Thank you so much for all the infos you shared. Newbies Like me need to understand all details before starting to upgrade.
Again thank you.
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