The official 36" zelos twin modding thread

[BatteryPete.com]

https://youtu.be/NRL0er0OTP8 - One of our speed runs - beautiful day but not ideal conditions.... watch for the bonus... perfect flip over the sunsets reflection... quite amazing. I have done a few of these but never recorded... once I get her wide open she wants to just fly... running 6s here.

[fweasel]

Unbelievable flip. Perfect landing!

[vinnyp]

Wow, what a blow over. I give it a perfect 10!!! I wish mine would land on the props once in a while. I usually have to go get the damn thing. Here is one of mine, just before my ESC's burned up.

https://youtu.be/lfy_-MvJLEc

[fweasel]

REDLINE and I hit the lake today and came to the realization that both of our boats were in need of more weight farther forward in the hull. After an initial run on 4 3S packs, strapped down in the stock locations, Mark's boat was bouncing and ready to take flight in pretty ideal conditions with x447 props and struts set conservatively at 3mm. So we brought his boat in, moved two of the batteries forward so all 4 were inline and as far forward as the tray allowed. The center two were strapped in, the outter two were wedged in between the center pack and white flotation foam in the sponson. Sent it back out, ran true and smooth. I did the same on both of my runs. First run was 70mph and the second run was 72mph. Boat ran wide open, super stable, for as far as I could run and still see the boat. Best setup I've run personally to date. I think there's room for improvement running it a little looser by sliding the batteries back a bit, but the major leap forward was realized today and will get both of us much closer to fine tuning for the next trip. Plenty of people have run with all 4 packs side by side before, it was just something we hadn't tried in our boats. I'm sold.

Other issue we're both fighting is the strength of the wire drives pushing against our struts and altering their position during the run, without a crash. When I ran flex cables, the only time my struts moved on me was during an acrobatic event. I love the wire drives so my fix will be to disassemble the struts into their two major pieces and rough up the mating surface around the adjustment through bolt. You can't do that while it's assembled as a single unit. Not worth the effort or drag to fabricate a vertical turnbuckle style support connecting the strut arm to the bottom of the hull like the big boys use. I may just use a little JB Weld to hold them in place for the LOTO Mini Shootout next month and do the disassembly work over the winter.

Also got my telemetry working with the DX5R. Still only running a single temp probe on one motor, but it was nice to see the motor temp in real time during the run to know that everything (mostly) was happy and healthy. Started at 90* as I headed out from the dock, ran just under 120* during the run, and spiked a little higher when I brought the boat back in and the cooling flow stopped. Good data to have. Can't wait until I can run dual probes.

2017-07-30 10.39.56.jpg2017-07-30 11.24.51.jpg

[fweasel]

Thanks. Neither of us are chasing any records, just looking to run faster than our smaller boats and keep the business side down. My boat has run faster, but those runs were hotter and less stable. Today it was just plain reliable, which is fun, and something I haven't seen in a while since low 60's. I'll definitely send my 1814's back to Chris over the winter to have them cut down like the set you're running.

[REDLINE1]

Yes good outing today. Boat was much more stable with all 4 batteries forward under the bow. Lost a few mph topped out at 66 with the x447's, but I think I can start moving the batteries back in small increments, find the sweet spot and hopefully pick up a few mph while maintaining stability. I'd like to see 70 then call it a day and just run the boat. Maybe move to the 1814's I have a righhander but haven't been able to find the lefthander

[fweasel]

Mine are 1814's..

Typo on my part. I meant 1814.

[Team Lucas]

My 2 cents on the 4x3s batteries side by side in line forward. Guys I tried that, but what I found was adjusting weight in that boat should be in the center of the hull. I found 2x6s hard case batteries that with a little sanding on the tray, was able to do side by side in the center, big difference.(BATTERYPETE) my be able to do something w/o sanding the tray. Just my 2 cents :)

[Team Lucas]

I wouldn't worry about it, you made a comment about if he even runs his and he got all butt hurt about it. Very sensitive soul. Hopefully he's banned because he doesn't know how to conduct himself around adults.

Anyways, did you do all the free mods I listed at the beginning of the thread?

sorry for not replying, but as in you list of a stock set up? I never seen a list but been on here for a year. would like to see it however, and maybe some others here that might have missed it

[REDLINE1]

My 2 cents on the 4x3s batteries side by side in line forward. Guys I tried that, but what I found was adjusting weight in that boat should be in the center of the hull. I found 2x6s hard case batteries that with a little sanding on the tray, was able to do side by side in the center, big difference.(BATTERYPETE) my be able to do something w/o sanding the tray. Just my 2 cents :)

Ya looks like 2 6s side by side would be the way to go provided you can get them up under the hull. I didn't like the idea of putting all 4 3s up front because the way they set the battery tray up it didn't seen like it was intended to be run that way. But it made a huge difference for me and since I already paid the $ for the batteries and don't plan on buying more now so I'll just run it with all 4 up front. Not sure why others like Madrcer have been able to get there's to run so smooth with all 4 inline

[Team Lucas]

Ya looks like 2 6s side by side would be the way to go provided you can get them up under the hull. I didn't like the idea of putting all 4 3s up front because the way they set the battery tray up it didn't seen like it was intended to be run that way. But it made a huge difference for me and since I already paid the $ for the batteries and don't plan on buying more now so I'll just run it with all 4 up front. Not sure why others like Madrcer have been able to get there's to run so smooth with all 4 inline

see if you can turn them on there sides.

[REDLINE1]

see if you can turn them on there sides.

Ya I'll give that a try Thanks!

[Mxkid261]

sorry for not replying, but as in you list of a stock set up? I never seen a list but been on here for a year. would like to see it however, and maybe some others here that might have missed it

I'm assuming he just means little things like polishing flexes, sharpening rudder, possibly scuffing bottom of sponson's, etc.

[Team Lucas]

I'm assuming he just means little things like polishing flexes, sharpening rudder, possibly scuffing bottom of sponson's, etc.

thanks bro....sharpened rudder, scuff bottom with 220 grit, basics yes, thanks. polishing flex?, never polished a flex cable. how do you do that when the grease pervades the smoothness? is it worth it?

[fweasel]

Strut movement problem: SOLVED. I pulled the struts apart and etched the mating surfaces with a cross hatch pattern using a small screwdriver to increase the clamping friction. Put it back together, set the struts at 3mm, and they held rock solid for 3 runs and 2 aerobatic maneuvers. The boat ais just about finally dialed in and super reliable. The fun quota is increasing exponentially. Ran 73.3mph today.

[Erroneous]

Carefull scoring fiber'glass'. It will follow the weakest line and like glass, break.

[fweasel]

Who's scoring fiberglass? The struts are made of aluminum (aluminium if you're British) I'm referring to the mating surfaces between the two pieces of the strut that slide against each other for the trim adjustment.

[dasboata]

REDLINE and I hit the lake today and came to the realization that both of our boats were in need of more weight farther forward in the hull. After an initial run on 4 3S packs, strapped down in the stock locations, Mark's boat was bouncing and ready to take flight in pretty ideal conditions with x447 props and struts set conservatively at 3mm. So we brought his boat in, moved two of the batteries forward so all 4 were inline and as far forward as the tray allowed. The center two were strapped in, the outter two were wedged in between the center pack and white flotation foam in the sponson. Sent it back out, ran true and smooth. I did the same on both of my runs. First run was 70mph and the second run was 72mph. Boat ran wide open, super stable, for as far as I could run and still see the boat. Best setup I've run personally to date. I think there's room for improvement running it a little looser by sliding the batteries back a bit, but the major leap forward was realized today and will get both of us much closer to fine tuning for the next trip. Plenty of people have run with all 4 packs side by side before, it was just something we hadn't tried in our boats. I'm sold.

Other issue we're both fighting is the strength of the wire drives pushing against our struts and altering their position during the run, without a crash. When I ran flex cables, the only time my struts moved on me was during an acrobatic event. I love the wire drives so my fix will be to disassemble the struts into their two major pieces and rough up the mating surface around the adjustment through bolt. You can't do that while it's assembled as a single unit. Not worth the effort or drag to fabricate a vertical turnbuckle style support connecting the strut arm to the bottom of the hull like the big boys use. I may just use a little JB Weld to hold them in place for the LOTO Mini Shootout next month and do the disassembly work over the winter.

Also got my telemetry working with the DX5R. Still only running a single temp probe on one motor, but it was nice to see the motor temp in real time during the run to know that everything (mostly) was happy and healthy. Started at 90* as I headed out from the dock, ran just under 120* during the run, and spiked a little higher when I brought the boat back in and the cooling flow stopped. Good data to have. Can't wait until I can run dual probes.

2017-07-30 10.39.56.jpg2017-07-30 11.24.51.jpg

If you want to have fun with the boat in the 70MPH range the 447 are the way to go,,,the boat stays on the water and you can have fun driving the boat I'v been at the lake and working on 2 of them for the last few month the 1715 are faste,,r but the 447 make the boat more stable with there increased lift

[dasboata]

REDLINE and I hit the lake today and came to the realization that both of our boats were in need of more weight farther forward in the hull. After an initial run on 4 3S packs, strapped down in the stock locations, Mark's boat was bouncing and ready to take flight in pretty ideal conditions with x447 props and struts set conservatively at 3mm. So we brought his boat in, moved two of the batteries forward so all 4 were inline and as far forward as the tray allowed. The center two were strapped in, the outter two were wedged in between the center pack and white flotation foam in the sponson. Sent it back out, ran true and smooth. I did the same on both of my runs. First run was 70mph and the second run was 72mph. Boat ran wide open, super stable, for as far as I could run and still see the boat. Best setup I've run personally to date. I think there's room for improvement running it a little looser by sliding the batteries back a bit, but the major leap forward was realized today and will get both of us much closer to fine tuning for the next trip. Plenty of people have run with all 4 packs side by side before, it was just something we hadn't tried in our boats. I'm sold.

Other issue we're both fighting is the strength of the wire drives pushing against our struts and altering their position during the run, without a crash. When I ran flex cables, the only time my struts moved on me was during an acrobatic event. I love the wire drives so my fix will be to disassemble the struts into their two major pieces and rough up the mating surface around the adjustment through bolt. You can't do that while it's assembled as a single unit. Not worth the effort or drag to fabricate a vertical turnbuckle style support connecting the strut arm to the bottom of the hull like the big boys use. I may just use a little JB Weld to hold them in place for the LOTO Mini Shootout next month and do the disassembly work over the winter.

Also got my telemetry working with the DX5R. Still only running a single temp probe on one motor, but it was nice to see the motor temp in real time during the run to know that everything (mostly) was happy and healthy. Started at 90* as I headed out from the dock, ran just under 120* during the run, and spiked a little higher when I brought the boat back in and the cooling flow stopped. Good data to have. Can't wait until I can run dual probes.

2017-07-30 10.39.56.jpg2017-07-30 11.24.51.jpg

If you want to have fun with the boat in the 70MPH range the 447 are the way to go,,,the boat stays on the water and you can have fun driving the boat I'v been at the lake and working on 2 of them for the last few month the 1715 are faste,,r but the 447 make the boat more stable with there increased lift

[dasboata]

Just some quick pics of a JB weld repair,,on 1 boat that broke,,, and another way to do a preventive repair on a new boat.. I sanded the surface with 80 grit cleaned with acetone and cut 2" tape by folding it in 1/2 and cutting a hole in it like you would do when you fold a piece of baloney in half and bite a hole in it LOL you'll get the idea came out great I thought I had a pic here ?

[Erroneous]

Who's scoring fiberglass? The struts are made of aluminum (aluminium if you're British) I'm referring to the mating surfaces between the two pieces of the strut that slide against each other for the trim adjustment.

Ahh 10-4... ����*!**♂️

[kfxguy]

Abc 1814-17-45 props are the fastest and most stable I've run on this boat. When I ran 1715's it wanted to take flight too easily.


Tips: I added a few oz of epoxy to the front of mine. Take the foam out and add 2-3oz of epoxy in the tips an tunnel. Make sure you have a 5 gall on bucket of water or your bathtub ready to put the front of the boat in after you pour the epoxy. If you don't then the heat from the curing epoxy will deform the hull.

I wish the rudder on this hull was 1/2" longer. It would help the flightyness a lot.

[dasboata]

Abc 1814-17-45 props are the fastest and most stable I've run on this boat. When I ran 1715's it wanted to take flight too easily.


Tips: I added a few oz of epoxy to the front of mine. Take the foam out and add 2-3oz of epoxy in the tips an tunnel. Make sure you have a 5 gall on bucket of water or your bathtub ready to put the front of the boat in after you pour the epoxy. If you don't then the heat from the curing epoxy will deform the hull.

I wish the rudder on this hull was 1/2" longer. It would help the flightyness a lot.

I have to try the 1814 when I get them if I get them sadly

[Team Lucas]

Abc 1814-17-45 props are the fastest and most stable I've run on this boat. When I ran 1715's it wanted to take flight too easily.


Tips: I added a few oz of epoxy to the front of mine. Take the foam out and add 2-3oz of epoxy in the tips an tunnel. Make sure you have a 5 gall on bucket of water or your bathtub ready to put the front of the boat in after you pour the epoxy. If you don't then the heat from the curing epoxy will deform the hull.

I wish the rudder on this hull was 1/2" longer. It would help the flightyness a lot.

what I had did for weight before pouring the epoxy, is I slide out the 2 foam on the sides and hollowed out the tips and weighed some 22cal led pellets {Walmart sells them} taped a lid on it and slid them back in. gave me a idea of how much I should add.

[fweasel]

These showed up today, just in time for the races this weekend. Thanks Brian! Hope I get some good weather on Saturday to test with them before Sunday morning.

2017-08-14 18.37.10.jpg

[REDLINE1]

Has anyone filed there water pickups down flush with the sponson? I want to do a little blueprinting on the sponsons and the pickup makes it hard to block sand flat

[kfxguy]

Has anyone filed there water pickups down flush with the sponson? I want to do a little blueprinting on the sponsons and the pickup makes it hard to block sand flat

Yes I did mine.

[IRON-PAWW]

Well..... So... Somehow this boat appeared on my workbench. I had <cough> nothing to do with it </cough> I swear. My Zelos 48 trials are great - but I need a break from that for a while.

I've gotten to page 28 on this thread only so I apologize if it's been discussed.

I'm soldering up a wiring harness today. I've got 4 x 3S SPC 6500mah 65c batts.

Now - what's best here?

(1) Do I series the two batts on each side for 6s - then connect each side to the corresponding ESC directly - meaning I have the two ESC's wired separately?

OR

(2) Do I series each side for 6S - then parallel each side together - and then essentially have the two ESC's drawing power from all four batts?

OR

(3) Either way is fine.


Got some X447's on the way from Dasboata (cheers to him!) and I really only want mid 60's out of the boat and that'll do me fine.

[MADRCER]

Less wires = less resistance... so Number 1.

[IRON-PAWW]

Thanks MADRCER, That's about what I was thinking too. Spun it up on the bench today after making the harness. Geez those motors hum don't they?

Did the sponson tips and tunnel nose as well with epoxy. Thanks for Travis for that little gem - yeah I put it in water... :-) Learned the necessity of needing that with my 48's. This hull feels stronger though I have to admit.

That seam though....... Who's strengthened that? Better than in my 48's.. but still looks a tad weak. Were you guys just pouring a little epoxy along it?