The official 36" zelos twin modding thread

[banixj]

i've never pressed the little black button for nimh...
but maybe i've pressed while working around it...
how i can get the status?

[Keagan-Z06]

I think it would be engaged by holding the button down for somewhere between 3-5 secs. It's in the manual I believe.

[fweasel]

I think it would be engaged by holding the button down for somewhere between 3-5 secs. It's in the manual I believe.

The battery chemistry button is not discussed in either the Zelos manual, nor the 120A ESC manual. Rafael has gone over its function, in this thread I believe, and it is discussed in the manuals of other Proboat models.

From post #117:

The little black button is to change chemistry. Hold for 3 seconds and green LED on ESC will flash and turn red after 5 seconds. Red led on ESC is for NiMh and will ruin your LiPos......don't touch the little black button....lol.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Same thing just happened to me . Left side ESC. start out green after a pass or two reduced power on that side and red flashing . Called Horizon tech said its the low voltage cut off indication, only I didn't have low voltage and both esc's were set at 3.2v. He ended up sending me a new esc. I put it in but haven't had a chance to try it because the lakes around here are now ice. Check the low voltage setting on the esc that's flashing verify its not set on one of the higher settings ,if not contact Horizon

Reduced power is LVC. If you're hitting LVC after just a few seconds/ minutes, you're LiPos don't have enough discharge and are dumping very quickly. The light also flashes with thermal shutdown, but you have no power at all. We have to remember that just because a LiPo has voltage it does not mean it has amperage.

In order to change the chemistry with the "set" button, you have to knowingly press it for at least 5 seconds. It doesn't just happen by pressing it once. Info regarding the Set button is being added to manuals, but unfortunately there is nothing we can do about printed manuals inside boats in hobby shops, or ones that have been printed and waiting to go in a box.

[banixj]

ok but why one only ESC is going to LVC reducing?
anyway i will try with 2 fresh lipos arriving for xmas...

[REDLINE1]

Reduced power is LVC. If you're hitting LVC after just a few seconds/ minutes, you're LiPos don't have enough discharge and are dumping very quickly. The light also flashes with thermal shutdown, but you have no power at all. We have to remember that just because a LiPo has voltage it does not mean it has amperage.

In order to change the chemistry with the "set" button, you have to knowingly press it for at least 5 seconds. It doesn't just happen by pressing it once. Info regarding the Set button is being added to manuals, but unfortunately there is nothing we can do about printed manuals inside boats in hobby shops, or ones that have been printed and waiting to go in a box.

By reduced power I meant the left side motor would slow down and have minimal power. If my LIPos were the problem wouldn't both esc's be flashing? I was running with 2- 3s reaction 5000mah 70c batteries ( just a few months old). Unless it was thermal shutdown like you say , but it happened after only 1-2 short passes and only on the left side. Checked cooling lines and they were clear. After talking to the Horizon tech support he seemed to think it was a faulty esc on the left side. Got the new esc in but haven't had a chance to try it because we have only ice around here now. I offered to send the old esc back for testing but the tech didn't want it. If there's any interest on your part I would be happy to send it back so it can be tested
Thanks

[Erroneous]

Sounds to me like LVC or cell count is off on that ESC...... Sorry, reading back I see it has been mentioned.

[Rafael_Lopez]

ok but why one only ESC is going to LVC reducing?
anyway i will try with 2 fresh lipos arriving for xmas...

By reduced power I meant the left side motor would slow down and have minimal power. If my LIPos were the problem wouldn't both esc's be flashing? I was running with 2- 3s reaction 5000mah 70c batteries ( just a few months old). Unless it was thermal shutdown like you say , but it happened after only 1-2 short passes and only on the left side. Checked cooling lines and they were clear. After talking to the Horizon tech support he seemed to think it was a faulty esc on the left side. Got the new esc in but haven't had a chance to try it because we have only ice around here now. I offered to send the old esc back for testing but the tech didn't want it. If there's any interest on your part I would be happy to send it back so it can be tested
Thanks

It could be that one ESC is slightly more sensitive and detects the lowest cell before the other does. I have not seen this yet personally, and no one who tested reported it either. It's hard to say which ESC would be bad in a scenario like this. Is one kicking on too soon or is the other not kicking in soon enough? Try a combination of the two when you get your replacement ESC.

As I mentioned before, thermal shut down will do just that, shut down; completely. It will not reduce power. If you have a flashing light with reduced power, you are hitting LVC.

Redline1, are you sure those are 70C? Dynamite only makes 20, 30, 50, and 80C packs.

[REDLINE1]

Rafael
Yes my mistake only 50c on my 3s packs. So definitely LVC on mine because of reduced power. I do have low voltage alarms I run with on both batteries Cant remember what the exact setting low voltage alarm is set for but I know its set higher that the 3.2v setting on the Esc's (additional failsafe). Neither alarm sounded when I had this problem. Unfortunately I'll have to wait till spring to mess w/ it unless I go on vacation someplace warn where I can bring the boats with LOL

[fweasel]

I had a similar problem to REDLINE1 when I raised my LVC to 3.4V. One ESC would go into LVC after a few WOT passes, on fresh, quality 2x3S batteries. I dropped them both back to 3.2V and haven't seen the problem since. At the time, it definitely wasn't a temperature related issue either due to cooler water temps.

I was at the lake with REDLINE1 and we verified both ESC's were set to 3.2V for LVC. I think we even tried turning them down one step lower since he was running battery checker alarms on both packs. Still no dice.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Rafael
Yes my mistake only 50c on my 3s packs. So definitely LVC on mine because of reduced power. I do have low voltage alarms I run with on both batteries Cant remember what the exact setting low voltage alarm is set for but I know its set higher that the 3.2v setting on the Esc's (additional failsafe). Neither alarm sounded when I had this problem. Unfortunately I'll have to wait till spring to mess w/ it unless I go on vacation someplace warn where I can bring the boats with LOL

Keep in mind that low voltage alarms only work when the voltage you set them at is detected, and the voltage stays there; or below. Batteries will dip in voltage under load and always come back up under rest. Just because your voltage alarm was not beeping when you brought it in does not mean it never went off and possibly stopped when voltage came back up. By that time the ESC could have gone in to limp mode after detecting LVC. LVC does not reset in the ESC until you power cycle the it, unlike a LVC alarm which can stop beeping if the voltage rises above your preset threshold. I run LVC alarms in my airplanes and quads and have experienced them going on and off under load until they finally reach their preset limit.

I am not trying to discredit anything you experienced, I am just pointing out a few more variables that need to be considered. If you get your hands on a program card, see where the LVC on that ESC was set. Could be that maybe they messed something up at the factory and programmed it higher. Cant remember if you already had the ESC replaced, but if you didn't, you're the original purchaser, and the boat is fairly new, call Product Support and get it replaced.

[REDLINE1]

Keep in mind that low voltage alarms only work when the voltage you set them at is detected, and the voltage stays there; or below. Batteries will dip in voltage under load and always come back up under rest. Just because your voltage alarm was not beeping when you brought it in does not mean it never went off and possibly stopped when voltage came back up. By that time the ESC could have gone in to limp mode after detecting LVC. LVC does not reset in the ESC until you power cycle the it, unlike a LVC alarm which can stop beeping if the voltage rises above your preset threshold. I run LVC alarms in my airplanes and quads and have experienced them going on and off under load until they finally reach their preset limit.

I am not trying to discredit anything you experienced, I am just pointing out a few more variables that need to be considered. If you get your hands on a program card, see where the LVC on that ESC was set. Could be that maybe they messed something up at the factory and programmed it higher. Cant remember if you already had the ESC replaced, but if you didn't, you're the original purchaser, and the boat is fairly new, call Product Support and get it replaced.

Rafael,

Ok understand thanks for the input. Yes they did send me a new ESC already and yes I checked the LVC on the ESC when I was having the problem both were at 3.2v
Thanks again

[REDLINE1]

Merry Christmas guys! Happy holidays to all!

[stratus]

Has any1 here removed the teflon lines from the stock brass tubes and run it like that?I would like an advise if the stock brass is to big to run it with out the teflon.
Thnx in advance

[Revolt Flash]

Yes, The tube is to big to run without the liner. Being it already has the 3/16 [.187] cable.

[Team Lucas]

Has any1 here removed the teflon lines from the stock brass tubes and run it like that?I would like an advise if the stock brass is to big to run it with out the teflon.
Thnx in advance

Most race boats don't run a Teflon tube, electric or fuel powered. I have run Jeff's wire drive in this boat and it's the same as running a flex drive w/o Teflon tube. Pro is less drag...con is water entering the hull. If your going to run like a bat out of hell (racing) take the tube out or get a wire drive with a water nipple... or for pleasure like floating at times, keep the Teflon tube in.
Hope this helped.

[stratus]

Ty both guys.I have emailed jeff and sent him a pm in here also cause i was intresting for the wires but he hasnt replied to me yet,so ill have to run it in teflon since the brass tube is to big to run with out

[fweasel]

I'm running my wire drives with the teflon tube in place as is REDLINE1.

[Team Lucas]

I'm running my wire drives with the teflon tube in place as is REDLINE1.

I did same as well

[Team Lucas]

Ty both guys.I have emailed jeff and sent him a pm in here also cause i was intresting for the wires but he hasnt replied to me yet,so ill have to run it in teflon since the brass tube is to big to run with out

wire drives will make the tube way too big, so whats the difference?

[kfxguy]

Most race boats don't run a Teflon tube, electric or fuel powered. I have run Jeff's wire drive in this boat and it's the same as running a flex drive w/o Teflon tube. Pro is less drag...con is water entering the hull. If your going to run like a bat out of hell (racing) take the tube out or get a wire drive with a water nipple... or for pleasure like floating at times, keep the Teflon tube in.
Hope this helped.

Have you tried packing the drive tube with thick grease? Should keepbthe water out.

[REDLINE1]

I think the leaks are coming from where the strut mates w the hull. You don't see it w the flex cable because its bigger than the wire add grease and it sealed good. I remounted the struts with some silicon sealer. Have run the wire drives several times and tested in bathtub no leaks so far

[banixj]

lvc: now is too cold for test, i hope someone will supply me a new ESC if is needed... but i have to wait at least one month...

shaft upgrade: i'd like to install wire drives too but i'm scared by water entry... i asked some more info to jeff...

stock shaft: i noted my shafts are a little thinner in the diameter in the point where collet tight in... is it normal or i have to upgrade immediatly?

[Team Lucas]

lvc: now is too cold for test, i hope someone will supply me a new ESC if is needed... but i have to wait at least one month...

shaft upgrade: i'd like to install wire drives too but i'm scared by water entry... i asked some more info to jeff...

stock shaft: i noted my shafts are a little thinner in the diameter in the point where collet tight in... is it normal or i have to upgrade immediatly?

Hi Banixj. Are your shafts stock? Are they both thinner at collet? On my stock shafts, I had one shaft at the collet was thinner because the shaft unwound a bit, but not enough to make it not run. I went to OSE upgraded shafts. I also have Jeffs wire drives I tried, and there very nice work, however I haven't worked on the water entering the boat yet, Jeff has a good idea I have yet to try.
We run year round here, but I been messing with gas boats, but breaking out the Zelos this sunday, we will have 3 of them racing for fun.

[Erroneous]

Update on the madness. New motors on the way along with 5000mah 435 gopacks. Also sitting on a new pair of ABCs by Dasboata. Figure Ill put one of the Poseidon motors in the V3 Blackjack, Turnigy180 on the way for that. Dont want to let the cat out of the bag yet on motor/prop combo. I will say this will get my blood moving for sure. Going to reinforce my original Zelos hull (will be interesting) as well... Fingers crossed, salt over the shoulder and lucky lucky chicken bones.

[stratus]

Going to reinforce my original Zelos hull (will be interesting) as well...

Take pics when you do pls and keep us informed,are you going to remove motor mounts?Mine are swimming in glue underneath and scares me a bit i wonder if yours is like that also?Good luck on your build :)

[stratus]

Yesturday had my maiden run!Mainly was a test run to see if all was ok,struts was on 4mm and batts all the way forward and i have to say that the boat was really nice planted on the water no bounces or any other bad stuff.I used 2x3s turnigy graphenes 65c 6000 mah,run time was about 8 mins and all temps was super cool 35c each motor both esc around 30c and batterys around 25c,also after the tips from fweasel removed the struts and used silicone in the join with transom also removed the rudder mount and where the links for the servo goes through and silicone there to.Results not a single drop of water inside the hull (was verry happy about it cause on my bathtub test had like 2-3 spoon of water inside).Unfortunatly didnt have a gps with me cause it was like a last minute dicision and just took a couple thinks with me,but the boat looked prety fast and most important really stable (was prety windy also on my run yesturday)

[stratus]

The first vid was a 4 min but ended up with a teaser :p Linking one more which is after i brought the boat out to check temps leaks etc(also on that vid i removed around 3 mins).On both vids im using same batts

[banixj]

good run! but... are u in the sea??

[stratus]

good run! but... are u in the sea??

Thnx and you mean if i was standing in the sea?If that yes but the water barely covered my ankle its to shallow so its basicly like stand on the beach