Glad you were able to get some strut maintenance done while they were off. I'll be replacing mine this winter.
Glad you were able to get some strut maintenance done while they were off. I'll be replacing mine this winter.
i quote REDLINE1: today i've tested Jeff wires for the first time: no water inside...
i agree with others: water can go inside passing by strut/transom assembly...
if you run the water can not enter by wires! so a static test is not real: a boat must run, that's the first rule someone teach me!
a strut service is good to add a plate and to seal better the area with silicone, that's what i did...
anyway with Jeff wires the top speed is really increased (+9kmh/5.6mph) : now my keda motors can reach the top rpm of 2160kv for a final speed of 121kmh 75.2mph! so happy today!
HPR 115 kevlar bulletproof @90mph, MHZ Rapid carbonfiber, Bingo Race Minieco
Futaba AIR TX/RX system with telemetry
Happy to report, boat is dry as a bone after 10min float test in the tub. Of course you guys were right, guess I just didn't get enough caulk in the right places.I I paid special attention to where the brass stuffing tube comes out and meets inside the stinger, just used a little extra caulk around the stuffing tube so that it got into the actual stinger. Must have formed up nicely as it dried. I thought of a rubber washer as well but that test will be for another day. Added the new 3831's as well so will have it out this weekend.
Building Mods to date: air dam up front, battery tray removed-reshaped (to fit 6S 2p under the front) and new epoxy added at the mount brackets for strength, homemade brackets made for both stingers and rudder mounts and placed inside the hull for strength, filed criss/cross groves on motor mounts at both contact points, sealed stingers/rudder brackets with caulk. Filed water pickups, lightly sanded bottom of each transom.
Upgrades or additions:Motors upgraded to the Dynamite 3831 models, also using thrust washers (from OSE) between collet and motor. Using Jeff's wire drives/dogs and collets. re-routed water cooling system to cool motors then ESC's, added more floatation inside, Receiver Spektrum SR6000T (telemetry)
Stock items utilized: Battery and electronics mounting tray, motor mounts, stuffing tubes and mounts, water pickups, stingers, steering system to include servo rudder ect.
Planned mods this winter: Kevlar/Carbon fiber inlay, tips of cat filled with something (not sure what yet) for added strength, quad transom water pickups (2 per side), 2 water outlet nipples added for the quad pickups, and either a wrap or pain job.
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Nice job done and good job to do!
Is it safe for the ESC to reroute the water path in the cooling system??
This is my last temp summary:
Air temp: 22°C 72°F
Water temp: 17°C 63°F
ESC temps: 55°C 131°F
Keda motors temp: 80°C 176°F
LiPo temps: 56°C 133°F
HPR 115 kevlar bulletproof @90mph, MHZ Rapid carbonfiber, Bingo Race Minieco
Futaba AIR TX/RX system with telemetry
Shoc-RC, glad you got the water issue resolved. Dry boats are a good thing. While I don't think its necessary to cool the motors first, given data off my own boat, you still need to rework your cooling lines a bit. Regardless of what order the devices are cooled, water should always enter the lower motor cooling can nipple (aft) first, and exit the upper nipple (fore). You need to clock the cooling cans on each motor so that the forward exit nipple is as close to the 12:00 position as the hull will allow. I used 90* barbs to solve a clearance issue with the lower water inlet getting too close to the tunnel. From what I can see, the flow on your right motor is correct, and the left motor is backwards, and both need a good twist on the cooling cans. I had to put my motor mounts in the bench vice with the motors attached and was able to twist the cans into the position I wanted.
This is not the best picture because most of the cooling can fittings are hidden, but it's all I have on hand at the moment.
2017-09-02 00.29.45.jpg
Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
Guys not sure if this has been asked but can the Teflon liners be removed on this setup? I am not a fan of the Teflon liners as I have had them wad up before and do some damage. What size cables are in these hulls?
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Team Liquid Dash
Yes, the liners "can" be removed. The cables are 3/16". You'd need to sleeve the tube with a smaller brass tube because the stock one is too large for a 3/16" flex without a liner. FWIW, I don't think the stock liner is teflon and has very thick walls. Give it a closer look, maybe you'll feel better about running it as is after seeing how beefy they are and likely to not wad up.
Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
Well if nobody here has had liner problems then I shouldn't either. First couple runs on the new UL19 and the liner wadded up when the cable snapped. If these have 3/16" cables then they should be good to go.
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Team Liquid Dash
Careful, that logic will bite you in the a$$ in the RTR arena. One of my stock flex cables was not well balanced and wore out the bushings in one of my struts, the other began to break at the weld between the flex cable and prop shaft. This was all after only a handful of runs. Many of us use aftermarket options.
Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
Last time I talked about modded a RTR boat people were flipping their noodles. Here is where I am confused and maybe it is because I have never run a twin cat before? My buddy bought a UL-19 and the power system is the exact same that is in the Zelos except only one of them. He is tried running 6s on this system and basically burned the motor, broke the flex cable and wadded the liner in a couple runs. I am seeing here that guys are running 6s without a problem for almost 5 minutes in the Zelos, this is the reason I am so interested in this boat. I really don't care about running 80mph, I would be real happy with 60-65mph for 5 minutes. Our current boats run in the 60's for about 2 minutes max and I want something that will run longer at around the same speeds.
I would really like to be about to run 6s packs on each motor but it looks like from what I am reading you can't get them under the deck enough to balance the hull. I do not want to run 4 packs in this hull so I am going to have to drop down to either 5 or 4s, depending on what fits. My guess is if I drop down to 4 or 5s then I will need to replace the motors with a higher KV or will the stock 2000KV motors do the job? I really think I am going to replace the motors with a pair of Neu 1515's anyway so I just have to figure what KV I should be shooting for.
Team Liquid Dash
Raydee, I run 2x 6s and after sanding the bat tray a little they fit, (just have to pick the batteries that are smaller in dia.) they slide under the deck. I have tried 2x 3s....4x3s, and the 2x 6s... If you just want a stable boat that does in the 60's for 5 laps or so, this boat kicks ass. I would recommend getting a set of O.S.E upgraded shafts and contact Chris about some props.
Zelos 36 stock 68 mph
Team Liquid Dash
I use 2 packs of 6 cells fixed under the deck for a right balance.
With 3300mah packs i get 3 min and half of run time.
With 4500 i get one minute more...
Not enough space for 5000 packs without deep mods..
I use 43mm props and jeff wire drives
HPR 115 kevlar bulletproof @90mph, MHZ Rapid carbonfiber, Bingo Race Minieco
Futaba AIR TX/RX system with telemetry
new record for fastest 36 zelos.i plan to try and beat it with my twin 2700 kv 8s setup in spring.just finished more work on it so will see in spring but here is the new record speed vid to date https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgtEMNL1_uM
Interesting day at the lake today. Pretty windy and this lake is relatively unsheltered, so it can get gusty and I wasn't sure if it was even worth setting up. I forgot my series battery harnesses and thought I was done for the day, but luckily found the two pack parallel harness at the bottom of the tool box. Most of my 3S packs are getting pretty tired after a hard season. I loaded two newer Revo 3S packs that I had previously been running in my mini Zonda, trimmed the struts down just a hair below even, and sent her out. What a basket case. Running with the wind the hull was dancing and the props were popping out of the water and you could hear the motors over revving. The trip back into the wind was one giant wheelie that I feathered the throttle to keep it on the water. That was it. I had already beat the odds of flipping and acrobatics were imminent, so I shut it down and cruised back to shore. Looked ugly. Sounded ugly. Went like stink at 88mph!
2017-10-21 10.51.44.jpg
Loaded four more packs in (still only ran on two, but needed the weight of all four) trimmed the struts a little more negative and went back out again. Boat ran better with more weight up front, but I got cocky and started making long passes. Spent most of the time on it's lid. The mysterious hatch scar got bigger too. My guess was an air bubble between the layers and a good water smack chipped away at it a few weeks back. Today was just more of the same abuse. There was a pretty good crowd gathering on shore marveling at the crash and recovery operation. Someone asked if it was supposed to do that to which I responded, "As long as it doesn't sink."
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I think I'm done running on the bleeding edge of this hull's capabilities in my hands. The off season this winter will be spent reinforcing the remaining parts of the hull not currently covered with carbon cloth that are showing signs of stress cracks. Most notably the rear seams near the corners, the steering cable mounting areas on the transom, and the corners of the hatch opening. Time to scale it back to the 70's where it cruises nice and build a new longer, faster hull to beat on instead next year.
Last edited by fweasel; 10-23-2017 at 09:00 PM.
Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
Although I am not breaking any speed records, I figured I would post this video. I only got 69 mph out of it on this run, so no big speed numbers. The Zelos is slightly modified. In this run, it had Dynamite 3930 motors, stock ESC's, ABC 1814-15-60 3 blades props, that I prepped myself. This set up has yields a wicked acceleration, but not too impressive top end. Check it out at about 2:13. I come cruising by then crack it open.
The other issue I have been having is it constantly melts a solder joint from one of the EC5 connectors. I have run this set up 3 times and it has happened all 3 times. That's what caused the boat to die out on me at the end of the video. Of course, it has to happen far away from me. Why would it happen in front of me?
Last edited by vinnyp; 10-23-2017 at 07:44 PM.
What a BEAST! Awesome run! That's how a Zelos is supposed to look running WOT (flat, level and controllable)! Looked windy as well and still handled the chop good. You left at least 5mph on the table when you feathered it at the 3/4 mark on the "money pass". With the proper props and water you will be all over 80mph with that set up. Looks like that HERO Session setup is the way to go as well. Great video quality! I'm glad you posted it because I'm tired of watching only mine...Lol!
TFL Zonda (124mph), Miss Geico Zelos 36 (108mph), Veles 29 (91mph), Zelos Twin 36 (90mph), Miss Geico 29v3 (83.5mph), Sonicwake 36 V2 (83mph), Blackjack 42 (81mph), TFL Pursuit (79mph), UL-19 (75mph), Sonicwake 36 (73mph), Motley Crew (47.5mph), AquaCraft Rescue 17
Team Liquid Dash
4 of these.... http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=399
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
Vinny, I agree with Brushless, those props might be too much load. What were the temps on the rest of the components like... Motors, ESC's, EC5 connectors, packs? At the very least you may consider upgrading your battery connectors to something larger like a castle 6.5mm. Do you have pictures of those props? I'm not familiar with the 15-60 profiles. I believe Rafael was running that 1750kv motor combo for a while before he went to a full on SAW setup. Always seemed like a good match, but I don't ever recall reading much in the way of results on his boat.
Last edited by fweasel; 10-23-2017 at 09:21 PM.
Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
I also wanted to mention, I drilled out my struts and installed M4 stainless cap head screws instead of the smaller M3 size that come stock. Those combined with a rough file to scuff up the mating surfaces have kept my strut adjustments from moving on me during a run or flip. It's also nice to get a larger sized tool on both sides to really snug them up instead of a 2.5mm hex and a 5.5mm wrench.
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Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
See the below video. Rafael has had good success with this motor and prop setup. Vinny said in his post on YouTube the motors were 108 and ESC's were 100. The heavy batteries and his heavy finger are the most of his problems. SMC 5200mah problem solved. I've been trying to get him unattached from those 7000mah for a while now
Last edited by MADRCER; 10-23-2017 at 10:29 PM.
TFL Zonda (124mph), Miss Geico Zelos 36 (108mph), Veles 29 (91mph), Zelos Twin 36 (90mph), Miss Geico 29v3 (83.5mph), Sonicwake 36 V2 (83mph), Blackjack 42 (81mph), TFL Pursuit (79mph), UL-19 (75mph), Sonicwake 36 (73mph), Motley Crew (47.5mph), AquaCraft Rescue 17
[QUOTE=MADRCER;702898]See the below video. Rafael has had good success with this motor and prop setup. Vinny said in his post on YouTube the motors were 108 and ESC's were 100. The heavy batteries and his heavy finger are the most of his problems. SMC 5200mah problem solved. I've been trying to get him unattached from 7000mah for a while now
Yeah, we have discussed that a few times. There is about 1 1/2 oz difference between the 5200 and the 7200. So maybe 6 oz difference when running 4 packs. Heavy finger!!! Yeah maybe. But I tend to beat up everything I run. My car, my Checkmate , my rc boats..
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
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