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Thread: The official 36" zelos twin modding thread

  1. #2371

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    got me a new lelos .. nice boat ,on the first run other day on 2 hrb 6000mah packs i was getting some bow bouncing wide open and kept getting out of it for fear of a blow over lol its all stock . i had the front of the batteries strapped with secnd and 3rd row of straps . should i move them closer to the front ?

  2. #2372

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    also it has ran what seems to be hot .. i cant hold my finger on the cooling can hot.. i temped after getting home couple miles away . motors 142 esc 118 and bateries 146.. i cleaned cooling passages .. but the esc are new out the box from horizon . my stock ones had a issue that was warrantied . so do i need to set the timing in them? i bought the esc control box too .

  3. #2373

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    Hello, I just purchased a Zelos 36 put in 4 batteries they were each 3Sa batteries took one quick run turned around came back did not even hit half speed it caught wind blew through the air and cracked the hull in half.
    Proboat it was nice enough to replace it but indicated they don’t warrantee against crashes which I guess I understand so my question is I need to build some sort of an airfoil or air wing to put on the front to keep the nose down as I love the boat but I fear that I won’t make it thru the summer.

    Anyone have any tips or links to parts that I could bolt on to this boat to keep it grounded?

  4. #2374

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    Air dams have their place, but in stock trim, you don't really need one on the Zelos. What you do need is a good setup. Have you measured and adjusted the position of both struts and made sure they were tightened down securely as outlined in the manual? Other factors like unfavorable water conditions and wind speed can also contribute to easy blow overs.
    HPR C5009 Mystic twin, Genesis 37, Zelos 36 twin, Voracity 36, Miss Geico 29 V3, King of Shaves P1, Mini Zonda 27, Miss Budweiser 1/12, Delta Force 26, Offshore Infinity, Stealthwake, Vac-U-Tug Jr

  5. #2375

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    Here's one future owner of the Zelos 36, just placed an order.
    Im looking OSE's shops for spare/upgrade parts. What are the must do upgrades for this boat? I got some good advice in other thread to get breakaway screws for the rudder for spares, but what else now that im "shopping". Balanced and sharpened propellers are on my list too. Im gonna keep the electrics stock for now. Still haven't decided what lipo configuration im gonna choose, but 6s for sure. 2x3s or 4x3s or 2x6s lipos. I read that optimal balance is reached with 4 packs. Any suggestions or should I just go which feels right? My idea is to get 2 running sets so 8 packs feels quite pita if going for 4x3s packs.

  6. #2376

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    Get the ose flex shaft savers so you don’t loose a shaft and prop if the collet loosened up , you can get some smc 7400mah 3s lipos and have more run time . The boat runs better I find on 4 batteries . Running on 2 3s only gets the adapters hot !! 6s packs don’t usually fit under the deck so you limited on boat stability I find . Also I say smc batts cause they have a 90c and up rating cause when you prop it up it’s gonna be more load on everything and you don’t wanna puff packs or have other issues .. also get a night tq waterproof metal gear Servo .. and while some say not needed I’d get the dual pick up rudder and cool the motors separate from the esc ..

  7. #2377

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    Thanks kyoshosp2! Didn't know there's such thing as flex cable saver. You seem to have good knowledge of the boat. How much there's room under the deck and the battery tray?
    SMC lipos seems to be out of the question as they don't ship internationally. Im thinking ordering all the lipos and charger from Hobbyking but there's no 90C rated ones in correct config..
    I didn't realize there's no pick up at the rudder. You are referring to this http://www.rcboatbitz.com/index.php?...3#prettyPhoto?

  8. #2378

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    That’s the rudder ..try hrb lipos . 6000mah .. on eBay or amazon .. 6s is to thick to slide under front deck , Ive only seen one set do it and were a low mah rating which kinda negates using them to me ..

  9. #2379

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    Ok, ordered the rudder plus new better flex drive assemblys.
    I found Floureon lipos from Ebay while I was looking HRB's. Anybody has used them in boats? Got a bit mixed feeling about cheap lipos in general when looking different forums for experiences. The thing with them is that the C ratings could be anything and it's on the user to find it out. Are the hobbyking lipos legit?

  10. #2380

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    FYI all LiPO batteries, the labels are misleading, none of the C ratings are correct no matter how much you pay for the pack

    The hobbyking HD60C are a decent value
    Jesus is King .......NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  11. #2381

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    I ran some flyer on in a single .. I find the twins have higher amp draw so I’d stick with a wider used pack name ..

  12. #2382

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brushless55 View Post
    FYI all LiPO batteries, the labels are misleading, none of the C ratings are correct no matter how much you pay for the pack

    The hobbyking HD60C are a decent value
    Ok, thanks! I ran my rc car with A123 Li-ion's, Lipos I don't have so much knowledge. Maybe I will discuss these more in the Battery thread..


    Quote Originally Posted by kyoshosp2 View Post
    I ran some flyer on in a single .. I find the twins have higher amp draw so I’d stick with a wider used pack name ..
    Any idea how much one motor can draw amps in Zelos?

    Edit:.

    Well I made compromise. Got 2x6S HRB 6000mah and 4x3S Turnigy HD 5000mah packs. Thanks kyoshosp2 for the HRB lipo tip, Ebay has good prices for them. Now it will be painful couple weeks to get all the parts and the BOAT in my hands...
    Last edited by Hardstyle; 07-10-2018 at 04:38 PM.

  13. #2383

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    Almost done! Still missing Dasboata's 1716 props... dang customs

    New servo, dual pick up rudder and changed the cooling lines for larger ID. Also re-route the ESC's, dunno if that's better or worse. Usually you shouldn't fix anything that isn't broken...oh well.

    20180723_175841.jpg 20180723_175853.jpg 20180723_180328.jpg


    About the gap between the drive dog and the strut. How it should be measured? Because the motors axle moves 1-2mm inside the motor and it affect the whole drive system.

    I noticed quite some vibrations at the hull when tested the throttle on a bench, is it normal? Of course short period of time, just to make sure everything was working.
    By the way is CRC's silicon grease good for the flex drive? It resist heat and water, and it doesn't brittle rubber/plastic.

  14. #2384

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardstyle View Post
    Almost done! Still missing Dasboata's 1716 props... dang customs

    New servo, dual pick up rudder and changed the cooling lines for larger ID. Also re-route the ESC's, dunno if that's better or worse. Usually you shouldn't fix anything that isn't broken...oh well.

    20180723_175841.jpg 20180723_175853.jpg 20180723_180328.jpg


    About the gap between the drive dog and the strut. How it should be measured? Because the motors axle moves 1-2mm inside the motor and it affect the whole drive system.

    I noticed quite some vibrations at the hull when tested the throttle on a bench, is it normal? Of course short period of time, just to make sure everything was working.
    By the way is CRC's silicon grease good for the flex drive? It resist heat and water, and it doesn't brittle rubber/plastic.
    do I have you on my list ?

  15. #2385

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    I don't believe I am, what list are you referring to? Sorry Im new in this forum.
    Thanks for hooking me up with the props im that Finnish guy. But now those are held in customs and of course im leaving vacation today.

  16. #2386
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    2,789

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    Boats run out of the water with no load on the prop will sound like a bag of spanners.

  17. #2387

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    Haha good to know, won't be doing that often then. Thing will fall apart before its maiden run.

  18. #2388

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    Got the boat running, dang it's fast even with stock props. But with Dasboatas custom props... all hell breaks loose, it's flipping, flying, wheeling, but mostly crashing. So my question is how can I make it to go faster? I did clock it at 64mph on calm water. I noticed that the strut adjustment is very important, almost over heated the electronics because the struts got too much negative angle. Didn't tighten enough the strut bolts and they fell down. For the 64mph run I had the props at stock 4mm positive angle. But it did bounce quite a lot. Batterys I had as far in the nose of the hull, got all 4 lipos side by side, 2 of the packs I had to put bottom of the sponsons.

    Is it normal that there's grease coming out where the struts are mounted to the hull (between the struts and the hull), or so it seems?

    Last edited by Hardstyle; 08-10-2018 at 07:51 AM.

  19. #2389

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    Hardstyle, I assume you're running the ABC 1716 props? I believe that's what you were going to order. The ABC 17* series props produce less lift at the transom than the Octura style props, as such, I've found I need to run less positive trim on my struts when using the ABC's. I too like to run my batteries forward with two in the sponson bottoms. On average, my struts are closer to 2.5mm down from a straight edge run along the rear two ride pads. Now don't take that measurement, or anyone's, as gospel, because I've seen the struts mounted at varying heights in relation to the ride pad surface on multiple boats from the factory. Just a +/- 1mm difference in the strut mounting height will change your trim measurements relative to someone else's. When my struts come off the hull, I try to put them back exactly flush with the surface of the rear ride pad, and more importantly, dead even with each other. Make sure to tighten the adjusting bolt really well as strut adjustment can often get shifted during acrobatics. I drilled out my adjustment hole and used larger M4 hardware to get more torque applied and have not had problems with them moving since.

    Yes, a little grease leaking out between the strut and the hull is common. That same mating surface is where I've had multiple boats (others as well) leak water into the hull. The fix for both issues is to remove the struts, clean the mating surfaces thoroughly, and apply a little clear bathroom silicone caulk to seal it up. Use it sparingly as you don't want any to get into the strut at the teflon liner after you reinstall the strut.
    HPR C5009 Mystic twin, Genesis 37, Zelos 36 twin, Voracity 36, Miss Geico 29 V3, King of Shaves P1, Mini Zonda 27, Miss Budweiser 1/12, Delta Force 26, Offshore Infinity, Stealthwake, Vac-U-Tug Jr

  20. #2390

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    I put 1/2 oz resin and lead in the front of each sponson and I set it in water till it cured.There is a thread with this fix in it.

  21. #2391

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    1/2 oz resin and lead.

    How much Lead in each one??

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  22. #2392

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    1/2 oz total resin & lead mixed together in each sponsor.1 oz total.The sponsors split easy at the seam so the the resin and lead helps there

  23. #2393

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    Quote Originally Posted by rcboone2000 View Post
    1/2 oz total resin & lead mixed together in each sponsor.1 oz total.The sponsors split easy at the seam so the the resin and lead helps there
    did you use buckshot mixed in? or something else?
    i've used BB's in a sailboat for ballast.

  24. #2394

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    I used buckshot.be careful on the strut adjustments one-half of a mm a lot on this boat.If I remember correctly with dasboata 1716 it ran in the low 80s I love his props and the advice he gives along with madrcer on here.Also if you clean the bottom with lemon pledge it will run slicker.I don't run the Zelos much I like my veles better than all of my boats

  25. #2395

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    i need to do this to one of my builds, i have pounds of lead, just no buckshot. thanx for the advice. i like the idea of setting it in water, makes since, since it's how the boat will be well when in it's on the water ha! it's a brilliant idea.
    another foot note for the captains log.

  26. #2396

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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    Hardstyle, I assume you're running the ABC 1716 props? I believe that's what you were going to order. The ABC 17* series props produce less lift at the transom than the Octura style props, as such, I've found I need to run less positive trim on my struts when using the ABC's. I too like to run my batteries forward with two in the sponson bottoms. On average, my struts are closer to 2.5mm down from a straight edge run along the rear two ride pads. Now don't take that measurement, or anyone's, as gospel, because I've seen the struts mounted at varying heights in relation to the ride pad surface on multiple boats from the factory. Just a +/- 1mm difference in the strut mounting height will change your trim measurements relative to someone else's. When my struts come off the hull, I try to put them back exactly flush with the surface of the rear ride pad, and more importantly, dead even with each other. Make sure to tighten the adjusting bolt really well as strut adjustment can often get shifted during acrobatics. I drilled out my adjustment hole and used larger M4 hardware to get more torque applied and have not had problems with them moving since.

    Yes, a little grease leaking out between the strut and the hull is common. That same mating surface is where I've had multiple boats (others as well) leak water into the hull. The fix for both issues is to remove the struts, clean the mating surfaces thoroughly, and apply a little clear bathroom silicone caulk to seal it up. Use it sparingly as you don't want any to get into the strut at the teflon liner after you reinstall the strut.
    Yes you are correct 1716 props. Ok good to know, definitelly will do that M4 conversion for the struts, thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by rcboone2000 View Post
    I put 1/2 oz resin and lead in the front of each sponson and I set it in water till it cured.There is a thread with this fix in it.
    Quote Originally Posted by rcboone2000 View Post
    I used buckshot.be careful on the strut adjustments one-half of a mm a lot on this boat.If I remember correctly with dasboata 1716 it ran in the low 80s I love his props and the advice he gives along with madrcer on here.Also if you clean the bottom with lemon pledge it will run slicker.I don't run the Zelos much I like my veles better than all of my boats

    Yes it came to my mind to add extra weight to the front (or if that's what you meant even?), let see if I can't calm down the bouncing with the strut adjustments. That Pledge idea though, have to try that aswell!


    When looking the Zelos fast list, how is it possible to get it running over 80mph stock? Is the strut angles really the key? I got some new flex wires from Jeff Wolt, will try them out soon.

  27. #2397

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    You can calm down the boat with strut adjustments up around mid 60 mph the faster you go the more bow lift you have especially with the abc props.I have heard of people putting a straw in between the sponsons to disturb the air flow.I do that on my ul1 and ul19 hydro not the Zelos.1/2 mm is a lot of adjustment on the Zelos

  28. #2398

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stillwet View Post
    i need to do this to one of my builds, i have pounds of lead, just no buckshot. thanx for the advice. i like the idea of setting it in water, makes since, since it's how the boat will be well when in it's on the water ha! it's a brilliant idea.
    another foot note for the captains log.
    pretty sure what RCboone means is they put the sponsons tips in water because they believe the epoxy setting up will cause too much heat and distort the hull,, but mixed properly that will never happen \

  29. #2399

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    Thanks Chris that is what I should of said.I need to call you next week with a new project

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