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Thread: The official 36" zelos twin modding thread

  1. #1951
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    First run of the season. Had the struts set at about 2.5mm with ABC 1814 props and 4 3S packs. Had a little too much hop on the first run and never really got many WOT passes. GPS read 67.5mph. Took out the HRB packs and put a set of Revo's 70C graphenes in. Second run was better, smoother down wind, but still not a lot of WOT because I didn't want to flip it today. I did flip it pretty good once, more of a sideways cartwheel, and landed business side down. Ran 71.6mph, but the temps came back really warm. The motor connectors melted the hatch foam and there was a lot of smoke, on both runs. It was alarming at first, but I knew as soon as there was no smell, it wasn't the electronics. I borked one of the struts on the flip to nearly full positive trim angle. Funny, I didn't really notice it much on the few passes I made after the flip before I brought it back. Next trip I'll use an air dam and run the struts at 3mm.
    my first flip was with ABC props... never happened with other props at higher speeds...
    anyway what do you mean with 3mm? 3mm from the "table"? neutral is 4mm from the "table"... so 2.5mm is better of 3mm to bring the nose down...
    HPR 115 kevlar bulletproof @90mph, MHZ Rapid carbonfiber, Bingo Race Minieco
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  2. #1952
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    Quote Originally Posted by banixj View Post
    my first flip was with ABC props... never happened with other props at higher speeds...
    anyway what do you mean with 3mm? 3mm from the "table"? neutral is 4mm from the "table"... so 2.5mm is better of 3mm to bring the nose down...
    I've flipped on all props. It's really not that hard. My strut measurements are taken as illustrated in the manual. Yes, 3mm will run the bow higher, but that's not why I'm making the change. I want less prop in the water to bring the temps down a little and I'll be using an air dam to reduce air pushing up on the bottom of the tunnel.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  3. #1953
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    Everythig is clear! Thank u so much!
    For same reason, less prop in the water, i leave stock 4mm setup..
    I change balance moving the 2 6s lipo packs: in the center of batt tray boat is not so wet and drag when close gas is so low... But i am scared by waves and wind...
    So i move packs a little bit under the hood... I think it is the best solution... But drag increase so much... So at half gas boat is a little bit slower...
    HPR 115 kevlar bulletproof @90mph, MHZ Rapid carbonfiber, Bingo Race Minieco
    Futaba AIR TX/RX system with telemetry

  4. #1954
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    Ended up covering / sealing the spider cracks in the bottom of the hull up with some carbon fiber look vinyl zelos.JPG

    If you look close you can still see a few of them under the vinyl.
    Hope it stays on lol

    Also add 2 layers of CF cloth inside under the battery / electronics tray . That area is much stiffer now. All ready for a few more flips lol

  5. #1955
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    First run of the season. Had the struts set at about 2.5mm with ABC 1814 props and 4 3S packs. Had a little too much hop on the first run and never really got many WOT passes. GPS read 67.5mph. Took out the HRB packs and put a set of Revo's 70C graphenes in. Second run was better, smoother down wind, but still not a lot of WOT because I didn't want to flip it today. I did flip it pretty good once, more of a sideways cartwheel, and landed business side down. Ran 71.6mph, but the temps came back really warm. The motor connectors melted the hatch foam and there was a lot of smoke, on both runs. It was alarming at first, but I knew as soon as there was no smell, it wasn't the electronics. I borked one of the struts on the flip to nearly full positive trim angle. Funny, I didn't really notice it much on the few passes I made after the flip before I brought it back. Next trip I'll use an air dam and run the struts at 3mm.
    So guys to bring the bow angle down,,,, lower your strut in the water, this will raise the transom!!!! which pushes the nose down,,, think of it as a sea saw

  6. #1956
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    I've flipped on all props. It's really not that hard. My strut measurements are taken as illustrated in the manual. Yes, 3mm will run the bow higher, but that's not why I'm making the change. I want less prop in the water to bring the temps down a little and I'll be using an air dam to reduce air pushing up on the bottom of the tunnel.
    then go with a smaller size prop also !!!

  7. #1957
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    Quote Originally Posted by MADRCER View Post
    Looks good...but I wonder how long it will hold up before the water starts making the carbon decal come off? I went ahead day one and brushed a light coat of T88 on the center hump around the battery tray mounts to make that area more rigid and to help secure the battery tray mounts better and possibly keep them from coming loose after a flip.
    We'll see I used acrylic edge sealer that the vinyl guys use to keep the edges from lifting.

    Whats T88 ?

  8. #1958
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    This epoxy is awesome https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...50?recordNum=7 Ive blueprinted two hulls and numerous repairs. Easy to mix, use, sand and paint. Did a test with a blob vs the garage floor, didnt break.

  9. #1959
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    All this talk about the bottom having "spider cracks". as far as I know they don't leak. its just the gelcoat, won't get through the fiberglass. Seeing all the pics you guy's post of the bottom, all nice and shinny I sand my bottom so theres no drag from "sticking" to the water surface. Thought that was in R/C boating 101.
    Zelos 36 stock 68 mph

  10. #1960
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    Quote Originally Posted by Team Lucas View Post
    All this talk about the bottom having "spider cracks". as far as I know they don't leak. its just the gelcoat, won't get through the fiberglass. Seeing all the pics you guy's post of the bottom, all nice and shinny I sand my bottom so theres no drag from "sticking" to the water surface. Thought that was in R/C boating 101.
    It was my understanding that cat hulls when up on plane only ride on the sponsons not the center section of the hull so you only need to sand the bottom of the rear two sponsons.
    You are correct spider cracks are just in the paint and gel coat but my thought was to use the vinyl to seal the cracks from moisture getting in the gel coat fiberglass layer.

  11. #1961
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    After spending several days reading this whole thread you guys have convinced me. I just ordered me a Zelos 36.
    I do have one question that I didn't see answered. Can I use the optional connectors that allow you to run 4 3s batteries and run 4 2s batteries to make 8s of power? Or should I just go ahead and run 2 or 4 3s batteries. I have several 2s batteries. What is your guys thoughts. Would it be faster running 2 3s vs 4 2s?

  12. #1962
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    4 3S or 2 3S
    Proboat Voracity-E 36" , Proboat Zelos 36 Twin , Proboat Miss Geico 29" , Traxxas Spartan, Fightercat Daytona, Zonda

  13. #1963
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    Quote Originally Posted by MADRCER View Post
    Congrats on the boat you will love it.
    4-3s are faster than just 2-3s. for me. I ran 59mph with 2-3s and 62.2mph with 4-3s on the same water and same set up with factory dull props.
    2-3s will only give you about 2.5 min of runtime and will be hitting low voltage quickly unless they are top notch batteries.
    4-2 s packs with the optional adapters would be only 4s to each esc which would work and you would be around 45mph (pretty slow for a boat this size).
    8s will fry the electronics.
    Thank you so much!
    Ya I meant 4s per side.
    Looks like I'm buying some 3s batteries!
    What are your thought on the power hobby batteries I see all over. Price is decent but I know you get what you pay for. I run venom packs now. All my 2s are hard pack. I have had 3 of my venom soft packs have the power wired pull out. They can out all corroded. So skeptical about buying there 3s packs.

  14. #1964
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    Let me lay some truth down for you.

    The best way to run it is a 4s, 5s or 6s pack per motor.
    As said you cannot run 8s on the stock electronics, but I think you figured that out.
    Venom batteries were the first batteries I ran when I got into this. They are decent but too expensive for what you get. I had quite a few failures out of those batteries and getting them warrantied wasn't easy...I was paying $95 each for a 50c 5000mah 3s pack.

    Your best bet is to just skip all the b.s. And buy revolectrix batteries from the ose store. That's the only battery I will run. Are they trouble free? No. But I haven't seen a lipo that is yet. If you take care of them like your supposed to then you will be far less likely to have a problem. They have proven far more reliable in my experience than any other battery I've used with gens ace coming in next in line. Revo has been the most powerful battery I've used also. Check out the prices, cheaper than pretty much everything else and far better. You can thank me later.
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  15. #1965
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    Revolectrix all the way. A couple days ago I decided to soft cycle all my packs and check IRs. The SMC and SPC packs that I used to swear by have twice the resistance of even my oldest most abused Revo packs. I fell victim to the venom packs too.

  16. #1966
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxguy View Post
    Let me lay some truth down for you.

    The best way to run it is a 4s, 5s or 6s pack per motor.
    As said you cannot run 8s on the stock electronics, but I think you figured that out.
    Venom batteries were the first batteries I ran when I got into this. They are decent but too expensive for what you get. I had quite a few failures out of those batteries and getting them warrantied wasn't easy...I was paying $95 each for a 50c 5000mah 3s pack.

    Your best bet is to just skip all the b.s. And buy revolectrix batteries from the ose store. That's the only battery I will run. Are they trouble free? No. But I haven't seen a lipo that is yet. If you take care of them like your supposed to then you will be far less likely to have a problem. They have proven far more reliable in my experience than any other battery I've used with gens ace coming in next in line. Revo has been the most powerful battery I've used also. Check out the prices, cheaper than pretty much everything else and far better. You can thank me later.
    I can't thank you enough for the help! I'll defiantly go that route and buy a couple 6s Revos! I'm also ordering a Set of x447 from Dasboata's!

  17. #1967
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    Great Choice's Hester welcome aboard!

  18. #1968
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    Quote Originally Posted by HESTER24 View Post
    I can't thank you enough for the help! I'll defiantly go that route and buy a couple 6s Revos! I'm also ordering a Set of x447 from Dasboata's!
    You are a full season ahead of me with those two choices. Nice work. I run 3S packs, but be sure the 6S packs you buy will fit under the deck (height wise) so you have the option to slide them all the way forward when tuning your boat.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  19. #1969
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    Has anyone experimented with props that work best in ponds or smaller areas where top speed can't be reached. I have a pond that's about an acre in size and would like a prop that has more low end. Something that would make the boat hop out of the water and provide better handling.

  20. #1970
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    Stock setup stock props should make it jump out of the water. Can try something in the 45mm range with tounges intact. The stock props are basically Octura 442s. Carefull running in a small area you need good momentum to keep the water flowing.

  21. #1971
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    Quote Originally Posted by HESTER24 View Post
    Has anyone experimented with props that work best in ponds or smaller areas where top speed can't be reached. I have a pond that's about an acre in size and would like a prop that has more low end. Something that would make the boat hop out of the water and provide better handling.
    Zelos is not for small ponds at all!!!
    Zelos needs large area for run safetly, turn safetlyand coll down...
    HPR 115 kevlar bulletproof @90mph, MHZ Rapid carbonfiber, Bingo Race Minieco
    Futaba AIR TX/RX system with telemetry

  22. #1972
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    It's not that small I run my rockstar 48 on it! Haha

  23. #1973
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    That's my new power unit for stock ESC:
    Keda Saker SKF 3668 4 poles 2100kv
    Max power: 1650W
    Max torque: 0.411nm
    keda power system.jpg
    I will test with 43mm CNC TFL props but i've to wait couple of weeks coz i've one other test scheduled before: second chance for prepped ABC 1715 with stock electronics under the supervision of the prepper man!
    HPR 115 kevlar bulletproof @90mph, MHZ Rapid carbonfiber, Bingo Race Minieco
    Futaba AIR TX/RX system with telemetry

  24. #1974
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  25. #1975
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    Quote Originally Posted by banixj View Post
    That's my new power unit for stock ESC:
    Keda Saker SKF 3668 4 poles 2100kv
    Max power: 1650W
    Max torque: 0.411nm
    keda power system.jpg
    I will test with 43mm CNC TFL props but i've to wait couple of weeks coz i've one other test scheduled before: second chance for prepped ABC 1715 with stock electronics under the supervision of the prepper man!
    Going with 6s on those?
    Genesis 36", Zelos Twin 36"

  26. #1976
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    yes sure
    HPR 115 kevlar bulletproof @90mph, MHZ Rapid carbonfiber, Bingo Race Minieco
    Futaba AIR TX/RX system with telemetry

  27. #1977
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    Keep us posted on your results :)
    Genesis 36", Zelos Twin 36"

  28. #1978
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    I put a set of Octura 442's on last yr, and I think there less aggressive then stock props. Also might want to ask if changing the timming will calm it down for a small pond.
    Zelos 36 stock 68 mph

  29. #1979
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    Started reinforcment today. I ran two layers of fiberglass (first strip 12" second 14" over the top) from the water outlets as far forward as I could. IMG_0838.jpg IMG_0839.jpg Also put two layers in the transom at the strut mount area. IMG_0840.jpg IMG_0841.jpg Im toying with the idea of another layer at the mounts to be safe. I made a roller to push in the resin down the sides, worked great lol. IMG_0842.jpg

  30. #1980
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    In the third pic to the right of the stuffing tube you can see factory glass that didnt get wetted in. I plan on layering over this too on both sides. Along BOTH sides on the seam towards the bow there was a strip of matt just hanging loose as well. I made sure they got plugged full too.

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