HPR 135 build - Questions on glue/inserts & cooling

[Francois Coulloudon]

Hello all!

I need some advice for my first RC boat build.

Right now, I'm aiming at this configuration:
HRP 135 bulletproof.
Motors: 2 x SSS 56104/1000kv
ESCs: 2 x HiFEI 300A 15S
Lipos: 2 x 12S2P (8 x 2500MAH 6S)
Props: Octura x470 downsized to 60mm
Servo: Power HD BLS-2809HV Servo 28kg 7.4V Brushless Digital

Everything has been ordered so please don't suggest any changes (yet ;-) ).

I have some good ideas for motor mounts design and drives (now deeply looking into high perf. lubrication and thrust bearings).
Will share more info once "work-in-progress".
Also planning to do a High Def. 3D scan of the boat as Hanspeter has no 3D plans. Who would be interested to share the costs?

I need some advice on three topics

---

1) What glue to use and where to supply? (Looking for local sourcing my European friends)
I have read this:
http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/r...-adhesive.html
https://www.rockwestcomposites.com/m...ools/adhesives
http://www.rockwestcomposites.com/ck.../adhesives.pdf

and I'm thinking either going for the VM100
or
http://fr.rs-online.com/web/p/resine...epoxy/7396926/
or
http://fr.rs-online.com/web/p/resine...epoxy/7839732/
or
http://fr.rs-online.com/web/p/resine...epoxy/1757858/

(all these links are also available in English)

I have good knowledge on how Epoxy glue works from a mechanical point of view but very poor chemical knowledge.
Any idea on which one I should go for? Black would of course look better. Anyone with VM100 experience?

I'm looking for facts if you have... (see the PDF, you have Mpa resistance).
I will use this glue for [SS, aluminum or carbon] to carbon substrate.

---

2) I'm planning to fix batteries/ESCs with glued inserts and M5 screws. So I can easily dismantle and change parts.

Thinking of using T-nuts with 5mm carbon sheets to glue at the bottom of the boat. Like this:
http://www.fixation-express.fr/en/ec...072167360.html

After looking at hundreds of pictures, would like to know if you have any simple but strong way to fix an M5 (or M4) insert (and what type of insert).

---

3) Cooling

I need to cool down 2 motors and 2 ESCs. On most setup similar to the one I'm targeting, there are only 2 water inlets (one on each side).
I also have 2 pumps ready just in case. Now my question is, do you have a diagram of your current cooling system? I should have one water inlet on each side that goes to the pump and after I use a "Y" to feed one ESC and one motor? or put everything in series? Do I really need a pump?

---

Thanks in advance for your feedback/help.

Cheers,

Francois

[nata2run]

Hi you can find many answers in on of my threads https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-McLaren-Theme
As for epoxy I use west systems, it's available in many stores around the world. For gluing flex cables I use locktite 643 I believe from memory. But other retaining glued can be used. Look forward to see your built. They are awesome hulls. Careful with 1000kv on 12s with those kind of motors. And specially those props. Those revs and props are already in the 115mph range

[Francois Coulloudon]

Hi you can find many answers in on of my threads https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-McLaren-Theme
As for epoxy I use west systems, it's available in many stores around the world. For gluing flex cables I use locktite 643 I believe from memory. But other retaining glued can be used. Look forward to see your built. They are awesome hulls. Careful with 1000kv on 12s with those kind of motors. And specially those props. Those revs and props are already in the 115mph range

Thanks, very clean build. How did you make your threaded inserts? They are clean. Also you use water cutting or laser cutting for the CF sheets/panel?

Cheers!

[nata2run]

Hi the inserts are stainless rivet nuts. All my carbon is cut on Cnc machine with diamond tip tooling

[nata2run]

Oh and locktite 648 for flexes not 643

[iridebikes247]

I too use West systems. Kent has some of the most detailed build threads going so if you can mirror the steps he took, should do very well. Please though pick up a x457 prop, the 470 red on 10s is 100 mph, that is a serious saw prop and has potential to burn up stuff quick, make sure you have top notch batteries. Also have you gotten a battery sled/tray system or plan on making your own? 99% of people running heavy hv setups silicone in battery sleds, nice amount of give for the heavy 12s system.

[iridebikes247]

http://www.r-g.de/en/

[Francois Coulloudon]

I too use West systems. Kent has some of the most detailed build threads going so if you can mirror the steps he took, should do very well. Please though pick up a x457 prop, the 470 red on 10s is 100 mph, that is a serious saw prop and has potential to burn up stuff quick, make sure you have top notch batteries. Also have you gotten a battery sled/tray system or plan on making your own? 99% of people running heavy hv setups silicone in battery sleds, nice amount of give for the heavy 12s system.

Hi,

Thanks again for all the infos.
I will probably make my own battery sleds. Carbon fiber panels on Ebay (20cm x 30cm) are between 15 to 23€ (2mm to 3mm thickness). Thinking about trying water cutting...

Cheers!

[nata2run]

You need around 450mm carbon for the sled. If stuck, I can make you some cool ones :-)

[iridebikes247]

As far as cooling goes I wouldn't mess with the pumps.

I have seen a few of the European boaters use them for SAW runs and I think for certain applications they "kind of," have a place. For example some people myself included make a long pass followed by a backup and then let the water settle for 30-45 seconds before the next run. A pump could lower temps a bit if adopting this style but running without one should be fine.

Also, don't bother with the thrust bearing on that motor. Its got an 8mm shaft I believe, big bearings and is of little value imo. Every so often they have a use in a boat but not this time.

[dexcraft]

But as with prices for other types of 3D printing materials, it highly depends on the quality of the material, the type of the material and the manufacturer. The average cost of 3D printing equipment for standard SLA resins is around US $ 50 per liter.