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Thread: T-180 V3 cooling mod

  1. #1
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    Default T-180 V3 cooling mod

    I've been using this esc on few boats mainly riggers with good results but not really satisfied with temps due to its poor water cooling.I've tried unsucessfully remove the heatsink,,,man what they did here.....so the mod after some brainstorming is this one and yes NOW temps are low and performance seems to has increased.If you want to do this mod take into consideration that you must be precise doing the two holes.....well I guess pics are better than words!Believe it or not this esc's being used in one of my saw rigger equipped with a 300A motor with zero issues.Thanks Gill
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  2. #2
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    Gill I take it the hole down through the top breaks the 2 original channels into one. Martin.

  3. #3
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    I need more info please. Did you seal two holes on one end with aluminum or is it silver like that from factory.

    Pics are a bit dark but I will study them after I D/l them in high resolution.
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  4. #4
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    Pretty genius there Gill! What did you seal the openings with? Epoxy?

    The only thing I thought about doing if room allowed was having the second nipple on the left rear. Maybe putting a 90 degree fitting. That way the water flows entirely through all three chambers.

  5. #5
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    Makes me wonder if the 160A Pro would actually perform just as good, if not better-- with a similar mod to it in terms of overall performance. Since its a bit more flat/low profile... I'm sure you can add alot more cooling modifications to it.

    grsboats: Is that top heatsink removeable at all? It seems to be attached with those screws... Can you show what is underneath?

  6. #6
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    Gill, tony added a cooling tube to one of his and it looks like it may be an easier solution.
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    Now I have figured it out well, mostly. He drills a side hole to penetrate all cavities and caps it off with a set screw, he also caps the old exit nipple with a set screw. The top hole is drilled so that it removes the wall between the two cavities, drilled and tapped, possibly sealed with some glue. This design forces the water to flow very well through all passages.
    Nice job Gill, let us know how you sealed those cavities somehow???

    You have actually tripled the effective water cooling surface area.

    I thing the end caps are aluminum bar about 4mm thick or so however, what glue diud you use and how did you scuff up the front inner cavity holes to get glue to stick since the capacitors were in the way?
    Last edited by ray schrauwen; 03-02-2016 at 06:12 PM.
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  8. #8
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    I've done this with no aim to improve cooling ('though it likely helps) but to re-route the return back towards the motor in setups where the ESC is in front of the motor, e.g. the FE30 .

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  9. #9
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    Ok guys let's see per parts.For those who own this esc you can verify that the four holes don't trespass the aluminium bloc so here we have just four apertures.Due to physical difficulties the two lower holes remain original as you have cables and programming plug in the way.The two upper ones were closed with thin aluminum "washers" that I did on my lathe with tigh tolerance.These washers were pressed and glued with epoxy glue(30min).The nipel is located at the end of these chambers right in the middle of the separating wall of them so part of the these chambers were exposed and communicate between now.The last two pics show this communication now(left and right side).Tony your solution is good and simpler but the intention here was to low temps as I'm using a hot set up.Ray as I said all the four holes are not trespassing the block ...with a caliper or piece of wire you will figured out this so there nothing to be done on the two capacitor's side.Dmitry this is the fifth esc I've modded with no sucess in removing the heatsink.Jammey in fact now the three chambers have lot of wather passing through out.Martin do you mind to post a pic of your esc as I can't see your mod? Thanks friends for watching and keep posting more suggestions Gill
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  10. #10
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    Here the pic of the aluminum pieces used to block the two upper holes.They are 6,15mm per 1/16"thick.
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  11. #11
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    Gill

    Thanks for this write up helped me kill two birds one stone. was looking for an elbow and was looking to use more of the block if possible.

    Removed the outside fin, Drilled three cross bores, the center one has 1/4-28 x 3/4" socket cap and tapped the ends for 1/4-28 set screws and cut down some low pro socket caps (easier to snuggle up and seal) 5mm set screw for the oem outlet all in no more than 2 hours.

    out20.jpgout19.jpgout18.jpgout17.jpgout16.jpg
    Last edited by markwithak; 04-13-2016 at 12:06 AM.

  12. #12
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    Looks good. Has anyone checked exact temp differences between the original and after the mod?

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    Nice mod Markwithak! Dmitry temps with my saw set up were after two consistent passes around 78-85C...depending on the water temperature(most of the time is hot here)..after my mod temps around 58/60C.Thanks Gill
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  14. #14
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    Wow that's quite the drop in temps.

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    I guess with Mark mod temp will be even lower.
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    Is the heatsink removable? If so, making a complete replacement wouldn't be hard at all. It seems like it is way taller than it needs to be too. I'm sure a smaller more efficient heatsink can be machined easily. I don't have one of these, but should be getting a build going at the end of summer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by boredom.is.me View Post
    Is the heatsink removable? If so, making a complete replacement wouldn't be hard at all. It seems like it is way taller than it needs to be too. I'm sure a smaller more efficient heatsink can be machined easily. I don't have one of these, but should be getting a build going at the end of summer.
    I tried to remove one off a 120 and wasn't successful, I felt like it would get damaged before I could remove it.
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  18. #18
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    Well I snapped all 4 screws and decided not to try and break the epoxy so leaving as is. When you now look at it there's different approaches you can take for the outlets to be in different locations to meet different installs. And a simple drill and tap process. One tip the 1/4 28 set screws don't tap too deep to allow the set screws to snug up mine are on the loose side but tread in nicely and sealed with Teflon with zero leaks.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by grsboats View Post
    Nice mod Markwithak! Dmitry temps with my saw set up were after two consistent passes around 78-85C...depending on the water temperature(most of the time is hot here)..after my mod temps around 58/60C.Thanks Gill
    That's a big difference
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxguy View Post
    I tried to remove one off a 120 and wasn't successful, I felt like it would get damaged before I could remove it.
    Quote Originally Posted by markwithak View Post
    Well I snapped all 4 screws and decided not to try and break the epoxy so leaving as is. When you now look at it there's different approaches you can take for the outlets to be in different locations to meet different installs. And a simple drill and tap process. One tip the 1/4 28 set screws don't tap too deep to allow the set screws to snug up mine are on the loose side but tread in nicely and sealed with Teflon with zero leaks.
    I figured that much. But I like to tinker.

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