Q class current draw?

[zooma]

Trying to determine if I am in the ball park.

Hull is TFL Ariane 2 (37 inch mono)
motor Leopard 4092 3.5D 1480kv
ESC is Swordfish 220 Pro+ with data logging
timing set to auto
Batt is 4S+2S=6S Zippy 60C 5000mah
Prop S&B ABC 1915-17

GPS max speed 56.0 mph

Data log shows a pretty wild sawtooth current draw at constant full throttle. Ranges from 130 to 150 amps.

Is this about right?

I have tried several Octura and Prather props to get to this point. The ABC sure seems to be the best. I would like to get up to 60 mph. I have an ABC 1916-17 that I have not tried yet. I am a little worried about the current draw. The boat is for oval and offshore racing, not SAW.

What kind of current draw do you seasoned racers get?

[Fluid]

My Aeromarine Shadow with Neu 1527/1Y on 6S1P/6500 runs low/mid 60s and averages around 130 amps. Your speed is a little low for the setup but that could be setup, cell quality or water conditions.


.

[Jamey]

Fluid, you are swinging a much larger prop then the OP right? Maybe a 55-60mm?

[kfxguy]

You have a 1916-17-45? The only 1916 available right now is a 1916-10-50 which I've tested back to back against the 1915-17 and it's slower by about 8mph with no changes plus it pulls more amps.

(I don't race those boats do I can't answer what your draw SHOULD be, but I know that's a little high in comparison with some of my setups) but my suggestions would be:

Raise the strut some out the water. Try a couple mm at a time. If it gets faster, raise some more. The higher you go up, it should pull less current.
Make sure you have sufficient drive dog gap
Wires as short as you can within reason

How loose is it running? Try moving the batts further back. I usually set my strut level and use the trim tabs to let the bow up. If raising the trims don't do it, add a touch of positive to the strut. I doubt you need to with that 1915 tho.

My first fast mono I built started out running 49mph on 6s. That was with more kv than you have too, so your ahead, but once I moved batts back and get things adjusted right it ended up doing 70 on 6s. Moral of the story, it just takes some tweaking.

[rayzerdesigns]

it really depends on motor and prop..im using a leopard 5693 with different props..amp draw is averaging 160 to 170, the watts are in the 3600 range average..but anything in mid 50s and up is going to be competitive..keeping boat upright at those speeds is your first concern in race water

[zooma]

You have a 1916-17-45? The only 1916 available right now is a 1916-10-50 which I've tested back to back against the 1915-17 and it's slower by about 8mph with no changes plus it pulls more amps.

You are absolutely right, it's a 1916-10. I just ran it. A little slower and a little more AMPs. But, I had to run it in the small club practice lake, where we have to stay in a circle.

(I don't race those boats do I can't answer what your draw SHOULD be, but I know that's a little high in comparison with some of my setups) but my suggestions would be:

Raise the strut some out the water. Try a couple mm at a time. If it gets faster, raise some more. The higher you go up, it should pull less current.
Make sure you have sufficient drive dog gap
Wires as short as you can within reason

How loose is it running? Try moving the batts further back. I usually set my strut level and use the trim tabs to let the bow up. If raising the trims don't do it, add a touch of positive to the strut. I doubt you need to with that 1915 tho.

Trimmed for running a little wet in the calm practice lake. At the recommendation of Jim Schaefer of ABC Props, it should loosen up in the chop of a race, and go faster. I used to trim for fast & loose in the calm, but then flip during heat racing.

My first fast mono I built started out running 49mph on 6s. That was with more kv than you have too, so your ahead, but once I moved batts back and get things adjusted right it ended up doing 70 on 6s. Moral of the story, it just takes some tweaking.

One thing that's annoying me here is that I can't find a fiberglass hatch, so I have to tape the Garmin Forerunner 201 to the top of the hatch.

[zooma]

it really depends on motor and prop..im using a leopard 5693 with different props..amp draw is averaging 160 to 170, the watts are in the 3600 range average..but anything in mid 50s and up is going to be competitive..keeping boat upright at those speeds is your first concern in race water

That's the plan.

[TRUCKPULL]

If you are going to use this setup for racing;
Forget the GPS and just time your laps, or your time for 6 laps on a 1/6 coarse.

GPS is going to give you top speed only, you need your setup to give and maintain good speed in the turns also.

Larry