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Thread: NEW Pro Boat "ZELOS 36" Twin Cat

  1. #61
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    We recommend our Reaction 50c packs. If you can find good quality 35c packs, that's the minimum I'd run. Run for 1-1:30 minutes and check the pack temps. If they get over 130*, you will more than likely puff them. 100-120* is normal battery temp in this boat.

    Here are pictures of the flotation.

    Rafael Lopez
    Product Developer-Pro Boat
    My Facebook https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010183246751

  2. #62
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    Sweet

  3. #63
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    Been prepping mine to use for Q-Cat this year.

    One thing that is impressive about the factory boat is the quality of the steering servo. Specs are pretty nice for an RTR... Price is certainly amazing for this quality of a Servo!

    http://www.proboatmodels.com/Product...ProdID=SPMS605

    Specifications
    Size Category: Standard
    Type: Digital
    Torque: 161 oz-in @ 6.0V
    Speed: .24 sec/60 degrees @ 6.0V
    Bushing Or Bearing: Bushing
    Gear Type: Metal

    SPMS605-250.jpg

    Because I believe in overkill for racing boats, I decided to give one of the new Spektrum S6230 Digital servos for mine. This will provide way more torque than is required, and also a faster transit/response time, which may (or may not) help in traffic or on an offshore course.


    20160209_193503.jpg

    20160209_193929.jpg

    http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...odID=SPMSS6230

    Size Category: Specialty
    Type: Digital
    Application: 1/10 Buggy, Truck, On-Road
    Torque: 311 oz-in (22.4kg-cm) @ 6.0V
    Speed: 0.14 sec/60 deg @ 6.0V, at no load
    Length: 1.61 in (41mm)
    Width: 0.82 in (20.8mm)
    Height: 1.18 in (30mm)
    Weight: 2.1 oz (59.5g)
    Bushing Or Bearing: Bearing
    Bearing: Dual
    Motor Type: Coreless
    Connector Type: Z-connector, removable
    Gear Type: Metal
    Gear Material: Steel, Aluminum
    Current Draw Idle: 9.8 mA @ 6.0V
    Current Draw Stall: 4900mA @ 6.0V
    Voltage: 6.0V
    Deadband: 4µs
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  4. #64
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    Prepped a couple of props to try on my "modded" Zelos 36. The big motors should turn these ABC 1815's just fine... :) Working on getting some additional sets of props to try as well. Taking this setup to the 2-LAP Time-Trial in LA next month. We'll get a chance to really wring her out there!

    20160214_142732.jpg
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    Prepped a couple of props to try on my "modded" Zelos 36. The big motors should turn these ABC 1815's just fine... :) Working on getting some additional sets of props to try as well. Taking this setup to the 2-LAP Time-Trial in LA next month. We'll get a chance to really wring her out there!

    20160214_142732.jpg

    Those 1815's will move that thing well. I'm sure you already know, but in case you don't, they like a couple degrees negative on the strut or the boat will become an acrobat lol
    Last edited by kfxguy; 02-15-2016 at 01:21 PM.
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    Been prepping mine to use for Q-Cat this year.

    One thing that is impressive about the factory boat is the quality of the steering servo. Specs are pretty nice for an RTR... Price is certainly amazing for this quality of a Servo!

    http://www.proboatmodels.com/Product...ProdID=SPMS605

    Specifications
    Size Category: Standard
    Type: Digital
    Torque: 161 oz-in @ 6.0V
    Speed: .24 sec/60 degrees @ 6.0V
    Bushing Or Bearing: Bushing
    Gear Type: Metal

    SPMS605-250.jpg

    Because I believe in overkill for racing boats, I decided to give one of the new Spektrum S6230 Digital servos for mine. This will provide way more torque than is required, and also a faster transit/response time, which may (or may not) help in traffic or on an offshore course.


    20160209_193503.jpg

    20160209_193929.jpg

    http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...odID=SPMSS6230

    Size Category: Specialty
    Type: Digital
    Application: 1/10 Buggy, Truck, On-Road
    Torque: 311 oz-in (22.4kg-cm) @ 6.0V
    Speed: 0.14 sec/60 deg @ 6.0V, at no load
    Length: 1.61 in (41mm)
    Width: 0.82 in (20.8mm)
    Height: 1.18 in (30mm)
    Weight: 2.1 oz (59.5g)
    Bushing Or Bearing: Bearing
    Bearing: Dual
    Motor Type: Coreless
    Connector Type: Z-connector, removable
    Gear Type: Metal
    Gear Material: Steel, Aluminum
    Current Draw Idle: 9.8 mA @ 6.0V
    Current Draw Stall: 4900mA @ 6.0V
    Voltage: 6.0V
    Deadband: 4µs

    Man I love those servos. I have a few of them. I even have one in my 98mph Rivercat. Smooth, quiet and very powerful. For the price I don't think you can beat them. And they are waterproof! (Which with my luck means a lot! Lol)
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxguy View Post
    ... they like a couple degrees negative on the strut or the boat will become an acrobat lol
    Yes... I figured. I'm thinking these will work well on my Cheetah, probably at Neutral strut.

    Going to be running my Cheetah in P-Cat, and the Zelos in either Q-Cat, or T-Cat. The later depends on what Rafael is going to be doing. If he can make it out, I'm going to make it my mission to help him get the Q-Cat record. If he does that, I'm going to run mine as a T-Cat (6-10 cells, up to 12,000mAh).

    OH, question: Inwards or Outwards rotation??
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  8. #68
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    Added a couple of "niceties", just for fun...

    OSE Front "tow-hook"... these things are styling, and work great!

    20160213_102454.jpg

    Also used an old Stiletto cowl screw mounted on the back of the hatch cover to help in the lifting off of the hatch. Just something I do on all my boats with this type of cover.

    20160213_135011.jpg
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  9. #69
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    How the hell did you get your hands way up in there!?
    Rafael Lopez
    Product Developer-Pro Boat
    My Facebook https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010183246751

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    Yes... I figured. I'm thinking these will work well on my Cheetah, probably at Neutral strut.

    Going to be running my Cheetah in P-Cat, and the Zelos in either Q-Cat, or T-Cat. The later depends on what Rafael is going to be doing. If he can make it out, I'm going to make it my mission to help him get the Q-Cat record. If he does that, I'm going to run mine as a T-Cat (6-10 cells, up to 12,000mAh).

    OH, question: Inwards or Outwards rotation??


    I seem to like inwards. (Left prop clockwise, right counter clock)

    I think your absolutely right about the cheetah wanting it neutral. That think is hard to get the nose up. Don't forget, there is 1816's and 1817's too if you need more speed, but I think those 1815's are the best all around prop you can get. It's my favorite and "go to" prop. Brian and Jim hit the nail on the head with that thing!
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  11. #71
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    Any better eta on this rafael

  12. #72
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    New guy here... I just pre-ordered mine yesterday! Can't wait!

  13. #73
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    The due date has always been mid March. Check the Pro Boat page for updates.
    image.jpg
    Rafael Lopez
    Product Developer-Pro Boat
    My Facebook https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010183246751

  14. #74
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  15. #75
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    Sweet!!
    Rafael Lopez
    Product Developer-Pro Boat
    My Facebook https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010183246751

  16. #76
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    Mine shipped today also!

  17. #77
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    I just got home a few minutes ago, read this thread, and then check my e-mail too... AND...

    My sweet twin is also on her way!!! Man I can't wait!
    I hope it arrives in good condition. Fingers crossed.

  18. #78
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    Got mine today. What an amazing boat. It's very heavy and well built. I swapped the EC5 connector on the harness for 5.5 bullets so I can run my packs. The flexes appeared to be only lightly oiled to prevent rust so make sure and grease them before you run it. The boat is bigger than it looks in pictures! It barely fits in the boat bag I built. Here are a few pics.

    IMG_0886 (Medium).JPG IMG_0887 (Medium).JPG IMG_0906 (Medium).JPG IMG_0920 (Medium).JPG

  19. #79
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    Unfortunately the wind was terrible today. Gusts to 30mph so I couldn't really open the boat up. Here's some video though. It's tough to tell how rough it was but the boat's action kind of gives you an idea. The flip at the end did zero damage and the boat is sealed well. For these runs I was running two 5000mah 3S packs (total of 6S to each motor when you use the included double Y harness). The batteries were as far forward as I could get them while still getting one Velcro strap around each pack. Temps were very low but I didn't measure them. The ESCs were even cool/cold to the touch. Granted I wasn't running super hard....


  20. #80
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    Two tips for you. Set the boat on a table, props and rudder hanging off. Look at it from the side, make sure the struts are parallel or level with the table. No positive or negative in the props. That's how mine is. Also, sharpen the props. You do those things it should do very well. My timing is at 15* and I have no heat issues. I wouldn't put the timing at 15 with stock unsharpened props tho. I didn't try it that was and I know a blunt prop will not cut through the water as easily so I'm not sure if it'll live that way or not. This setup in stock trim really doesn't seems to break a sweat no matter what I've done so far. I even had my shafts in a bind and the escs and motors didn't get hot.



    *****im not condoning changing the timing as your warranty may be void. I did it myself because I have spare esc's anyway so if I burn them in the sake of testing I'm ok with that.
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  21. #81
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    Arrower, cool video. Nice to start seeing video, other than the ones Travis or I post.


    A couple of routine maintenance tips I'd like to share.

    When greasing the shafts, don't squirt grease inside the struts. The diameter of the hole on the strut and the liner is nearly the same diameter as the flex shaft. Doing so will force the grease out of the liner when you insert the flex shaft and you'll end up with a huge mess inside the boat. You also don't want grease inside your coupler.

    I squeeze some grease on a napkin and run the flex shaft through it, making sure I don't get grease on the first 15-20mm of the shaft, which will go in to the coupler. When I install the flex shaft in to the strut, I rotate the flex shaft in the direction the cable is wound. This will help carry as much grease as possible in to the liner. You will notice a lot of the grease will not make it in to the liner, and it will appear to nearly all end up at the strut's opening, this is normal. Use grease sparingly. This is why the manual recommends greasing about every 20 minutes of use, or less when possible. When you are done running for the day, I recommend removing the shafts and wiping them down, grease and reinstall. This does 2 things. It keeps the used grease from accumulating inside of the liner and on the shaft, and it ensures that your boat will always be ready at short notice to go run it.

    Another tip, when greasing always put a drop or two of oil in the front bearing. As the shafts load, they contract putting a load on the front bearing. The rear motor bearing doesn't see this burden. This us useful for any boat, not just this one.

    Lastly, carry a 2.5 L wrench with you. I have a long L wrench with a ball tip on the end that I got from my local hardware store in set. Use the short part of the L wrench and periodically check to make sure the motor mount screws are tight. I check mine every time I grease the flex shafts and oil the bearings. The ball end of the wrench comes in handy if you ever need to remove the motors. Break the bolt loose with the short end and then use the ball driver to easily remove the screws.
    Rafael Lopez
    Product Developer-Pro Boat
    My Facebook https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010183246751

  22. #82
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    My local hobby shop got one in stock the other day. I got the opportunity to open up the box and put hands on this beautiful boat... All I can say is WOW!

    The FG layup really is a lot thicker than anything I've seen from Proboat. Just removing the canopy and holding it I can feel the thickness and quality is top-notch. I love the angles and the lines of this cat. Color is not my first choice but that can be easily changed. The hardware/electronics are incredible too.
    After my Voracity I swore to avoid Another RTR boat and focus on building my next ones. But after reading about the Zelos Twin and now seeing it in person I must say that I cannot wait to bring this big boy home!

  23. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rafael_Lopez View Post
    We recommend our Reaction 50c packs. If you can find good quality 35c packs, that's the minimum I'd run. Run for 1-1:30 minutes and check the pack temps. If they get over 130*, you will more than likely puff them. 100-120* is normal battery temp in this boat.

    Here are pictures of the flotation.

    I had to re-epoxy the foam put of the box. As it was not even attached when I first opened the hatch. Very very minor.

  24. #84
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    As soon as the weather clears up, I'll be taking my new zelos out. #cantwait

  25. #85
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    If the worst complaint is a 5 sec glue job repair I'd say that's pretty damn good.

  26. #86
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    I had some time and flat water this morning to finally open the twin up fully. It ran 58.6mph on two 3S packs (6S to each motor) and 36.7mph on two 2S packs (4S to each motor). This is the out of the box stock configuration. I've only changed the battery plugs on the Y harness. No other adjustments. My packs were as far forward as possible while still being strapped down by the most forward velcro strap. The boat bounced quite a bit at full speed and the nose was very light on 6S. I think my next move will be to set the boat up for four 3S packs (still 6S to each motor). I did notice that one of my struts is trimmed up slightly and that may be where some speed is hiding. I'm having a blast with this boat! It is a ton of fun to drive. The twins sound very cool and I really like the way it handles.
    IMG_0929 (Medium).JPG IMG_0930 (Medium).JPG

  27. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by arrover View Post
    I had some time and flat water this morning to finally open the twin up fully. It ran 58.6mph on two 3S packs (6S to each motor) and 36.7mph on two 2S packs (4S to each motor). This is the out of the box stock configuration. I've only changed the battery plugs on the Y harness. No other adjustments. My packs were as far forward as possible while still being strapped down by the most forward velcro strap. The boat bounced quite a bit at full speed and the nose was very light on 6S. I think my next move will be to set the boat up for four 3S packs (still 6S to each motor). I did notice that one of my struts is trimmed up slightly and that may be where some speed is hiding. I'm having a blast with this boat! It is a ton of fun to drive. The twins sound very cool and I really like the way it handles.
    IMG_0929 (Medium).JPG IMG_0930 (Medium).JPG


    Sharpen the props. Put the struts level. The strut having positive will make it bounce. You shouldn't need extra weight. I'm only running a pair of 3s in mine. Mine did bounce with the batts towards the rear but Raphael told me to move them up and no bounce at all at any speed. Should we start a modding thread like the voracity? I've got some plans for mine......
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  28. #88
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    Thanks Travis. I realize those things will help it run better but I'm just getting a totally stock baseline since this was only the second time I've run it. Good to know you're still running a pair of 3S. I've been thinking the same thing as you! We need a mod thread! I've got some plans too.

  29. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxguy View Post
    Sharpen the props. Put the struts level. The strut having positive will make it bounce. You shouldn't need extra weight. I'm only running a pair of 3s in mine. Mine did bounce with the batts towards the rear but Raphael told me to move them up and no bounce at all at any speed. Should we start a modding thread like the voracity? I've got some plans for mine......
    Agreed. Most every video, other than the one where I'm running laps, has been done with just 2 packs and you will notice the boat doesn't bounce.

    The manual explains how to check and adjust your struts. It says use a ruler to measure to make sure they are level. Here is a picture to help. The distance between the hash marks should be 4mm to 3.75mm. The ruler is represented by the black line. It must lay across the middle and rear pad and extend past the strut.
    Last edited by Rafael_Lopez; 03-27-2016 at 11:15 AM.
    Rafael Lopez
    Product Developer-Pro Boat
    My Facebook https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010183246751

  30. #90
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    Perfect Raphael, thanks for the illustration. I've had to answer this question a few times over the past couple days from people who bought them. Don't mind but the picture says 1000 words.

    Arrover I'll start a thread. I've got a few things I've tried that I didn't mention
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

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