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Thread: 37"Daytona:Bullitproof

  1. #1
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    Default 37"Daytona:Bullitproof

    Well guys I've finally decided to get on with my first Dihedral design hull. So here is what I have:
    37" FC hull
    2 Trackstar 4074 2560kv motors
    110 stingers(to be shortened)
    MBP collets and 150 R&L cables
    A customized mini rudder from OSE
    Savox 'shorty' servo
    And a pair of SK 120 ESC's(which I am still undecided if adequate)


  2. #2
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    Since when did you get yourself some MBP Clicks on your Fantasm, shawn? :) How do you like them?

    Do they stand up to SAW ok? I heard they can sometimes move (left/right) etc after a crash...

  3. #3
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    Those have been on there since I built it Dmitry. They have been great but mine are a little stiff to tune as I got a little loose with epoxy back there when I built it.

  4. #4
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    Looks like a fun build btw what cell count you thinking?

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    Quote Originally Posted by iridebikes247 View Post
    Looks like a fun build btw what cell count you thinking?
    Thinking 4s Mike but I have 5's as well, lol. Y'know, sport!
    Last edited by srislash; 12-27-2015 at 09:06 PM.

  6. #6
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    5s is gonna haul. The 120's may do it but you might be cutting it close. We like overhead, just in case. Pair of seaking 180's would be ideal. I know you've got plenty of props to play with so it would be safer. This should be a very fast but budget build. Can't wait to see it done!
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  7. #7
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    I have a few Castle 200/240's here Travis, The garage sale air versions. I have been thinking of tuning a couple up for this. Once running maybe the 120's will be fine.

  8. #8
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    As per my usual I installed a piece of 1 1/4"x 3/8" aluminum stock into the transom overhang. This I later drill and thread for the rudder standoff. I layed a piece of CF cloth across the transom section first then the aluminum and then another strip of CF wrapped right around the seam up to where my stingers mount.



    I also like to make stringer/deck braces for additional strength. I have found it really helps to stiffen it up and prevents the deck from collapsing if the boat takes a dive.


  9. #9
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    Looks good as usual! Makes me want to finish my daytona I started like 3 years ago hahah
    HPR 135 redemption, HPR C5009, modded zelos 36, 32 boats and counting.
    Flier ESC dealer, pm me for details.
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/EliteRCBoats/

  10. #10
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    You were one of the reasons I bought one.

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    I got my stringers in, inlay and transom doublers in, and then drilled for my stingers and installed my motor mounts. All this done within a couple day window so all was mounted 'green'.


  12. #12
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    And here are the mounts setting up and after.



    I am going with .150 flexes on this one so I installed a 3/16 flex thru the stinger and into a collett attached to the motor to maintain a good natural bend.

  13. #13
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    So this is my rudder which has been made from two OSE rudders. It is as close to 'scale' as I could come up with. I will most likely powder coat it later before final assembly.



    Now for some thoughts from you guys perhaps; when I had these stingers on my Shocker I found they would get tweaked easily. So I have been thinking if I shorten them it would lessen the torsional side forces that tweaked them before. Does anyone know if the bushings just push through the tube wherever or is there a set ridge within? I seem to have up to 20mm or 5/8" to cut off of them


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    Looking good! I need some schooling on how to get my epoxy to lay correctly and not run. What epoxy are you using?
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

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    I run the tfl stingers on my explorer I believe 108mm long. My boat was riding pretty wet so I cut off 18mm of stinger.

    I ordered a bunch of bushings from OSE but after cutting it off I found I left the bushings intact, so just popped them out of the piece I cut off and pressed them into the drive tube. To answer your question I don't think they have a ring or at least the ones I cut down didn't, I cracked two drive posts from driving hard in choppy water since cutting down, much more durable.

    The daytona will likely air out better with short drives

  16. #16
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    looking good man. makes me want to finish my daytona soon. interested to see how those trackstars do under 5s! should sound wicked. and here i thought i was nuts for running 2200kv on 5s!!!
    HPR 135 redemption, HPR C5009, modded zelos 36, 32 boats and counting.
    Flier ESC dealer, pm me for details.
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/EliteRCBoats/

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    I got my stringers in, inlay and transom doublers in, and then drilled for my stingers and installed my motor mounts. All this done within a couple day window so all was mounted 'green'.

    Really like this idea, have not seen these pieces beefed up before. Are you going to fill with expanding foam as well?
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tamelesstgr View Post
    Really like this idea, have not seen these pieces beefed up before. Are you going to fill with expanding foam as well?
    I do have some in the tips and a small way up the sponsons. I have been doing these stringers for awhile now. Geico twin, and my Fantasm which is coming up on its third year running(half that time over 100) and I feel it totally helps keep her SOLID.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by iridebikes247 View Post
    I run the tfl stingers on my explorer I believe 108mm long. My boat was riding pretty wet so I cut off 18mm of stinger.

    I ordered a bunch of bushings from OSE but after cutting it off I found I left the bushings intact, so just popped them out of the piece I cut off and pressed them into the drive tube. To answer your question I don't think they have a ring or at least the ones I cut down didn't, I cracked two drive posts from driving hard in choppy water since cutting down, much more durable.

    The daytona will likely air out better with short drives
    Thanks Mike, just the info I was looking for

    Quote Originally Posted by kfxguy View Post
    Looking good! I need some schooling on how to get my epoxy to lay correctly and not run. What epoxy are you using?
    SystemTree Silvertip Laminating epoxy Trav. It has not failed me yet. I use this $hxx for everything, my runners, my CF repairs, my own sheets, everything.

  20. #20
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    Wow, second page back already! I have been busy but have been working on something along the way, bit by bit.

    I wanted something different in this one and in my future builds so I have made my own servo mount mould.



    I need to cut the hole for the servo yet and tap screw holes but with this I should be able to keep wire extensions and RX connections tucked under in the empty space beside the servo within the mount. Once again as many of my builds, just different.

  21. #21
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    Looks cool. It doesn't look very deep, but I'm sure you made sure the servo fits. I've been tryin to dream up some different stuff to do to my future builds here lately. This gets the thoughts pumping!
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxguy View Post
    Looks cool. It doesn't look very deep, but I'm sure you made sure the servo fits. I've been tryin to dream up some different stuff to do to my future builds here lately. This gets the thoughts pumping!
    Thanks Travis,
    It took me a bit to come up with. It is a hard area to get original on. My others I went functional on and tied the side rails into the the rear deck. This one needs a little more work but I like it.

  23. #23
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    That looks good, its really cool making custom servo mounts you'll never have on break free with the contact area, motor mounts are looking good too! BTW do you add 2 part foam to the front of your boats?

  24. #24
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    How do you make your own CF sheet, shawn? Just slapping a few layers wetted in epoxy and clamping it together with like 2 very even metal plates or something like that ?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmitry100 View Post
    How do you make your own CF sheet, shawn? Just slapping a few layers wetted in epoxy and clamping it together with like 2 very even metal plates or something like that ?
    Something like that buddy, sheets are done with glass and a ton of weight. This one was made with a foam backed female mould and a male 'plug'.

    Quote Originally Posted by iridebikes247 View Post
    That looks good, its really cool making custom servo mounts you'll never have on break free with the contact area, motor mounts are looking good too! BTW do you add 2 part foam to the front of your boats?
    I did put some in the Fantasm and a bit in this one too Mike. I have been using it to force the wetted CF to the hull sides way up front on the seams.

  26. #26
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    I finally got some progress to report.
    DRIVE TUBES ARE IN



    It is all down hill from here. Some pretty'ing up, ESC's, cut foam and run.

    Oh yeah my rudder cabling is all figured out as well. I'll get a pic later

  27. #27
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    Any update on this build?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by boredom.is.me View Post
    Any update on this build?
    Nope, she pretty much sits like this. It has made it back onto the build table twice but I keep hurting one of the other boats and a runner seems to take precedence.
    I was stuck trying to figure some ingenious ESC mounting but I do think I'll just mount them in the middle and get this one going.

    Hopefully on it right quick here.

  29. #29
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    A middle mount would probably be the cleanest if you shorten the wires between the ESC and motors. Are you still planning on running the 120A's? I'm on the fence myself.

  30. #30
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    For that loose carbon fiber stuck to your hull you could try removing it by gently prying a few fibers off of the surface and then just peel them off. Since it wasn't sanded, it should come right off with little effort.

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