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Thread: Bought a ProBoat Stealthwake to play with

  1. #31
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    Haha! Thanks guys. It's been a lot of fun. Kind of different from the bigger boats that we're always talking about. Rafael, has there been any talk about adding the brushless version to the Pro Boat lineup? I'm not sure how that would fit into the lineup and how much you would have to charge, etc, etc. But I do think that it would be a really fun boat. I think a Stealthwake with a brushless motor and a water cooled ESC that did around 25mph would be an amazing RTR boat. Maybe eliminate the battery and charger to bring the price point back down a hair. 2S max battery. Oh and then there's the fiberglass Stealthwake 30 that you need to develop....

  2. #32
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    Nice run keep it goin like all your videos.

  3. #33
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    This hull isn't really made to go these speeds. Yesterday I was running around 30mph with an Octura M645 on 2S. I brought the boat in and noticed this fairly bad damage where the rudder mounts. This aluminum rudder even has a backing plate behind it but the hull just isn't designed for theses high speed stresses. I bet that this area of the hull was damaged from some of my faster wrecks and it finally gave way yesterday. The boat actually still runs fine and I continued to run it after I found this crack. I still like this boat at least as much as some of my much bigger faster boats. Maybe even more. This has been a great project but my opinion is that for maximum FUN, this boat is best left close to stock. Ideally it would have a small water cooled brushless motor and ESC and a metal prop. Keep the speed around 20-25mph and maintain that fun rough water ability. I believe that the Impulse 31V2 stainless prop is the same pitch and diameter as the stock plastic Stealthwake prop (1.6x 40mm).

    IMG_1591 (Medium).JPG IMG_1592 (Medium).JPG

  4. #34
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    Oddly I realized that when starting to design the color scheme for my mono build it looks strikingly similar to the Stealthwake.

    20160526_072128.jpg
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  5. #35
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  6. #36
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    Hi, I'm putting a stainless water outlet on my steathwake and was wondering if you used a hose clamp to connect the water outlet to the tube?

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by be8843 View Post
    Hi, I'm putting a stainless water outlet on my steathwake and was wondering if you used a hose clamp to connect the water outlet to the tube?
    If the cooling hose fits tight enough, no need. If you're uncertain, or want to be sure, a clamp or zip tie won't hurt anything.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  8. #38
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    Just looked at my boat and I do not have a clamp or zip tie on the line. You usually don't need them.

  9. #39
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    Good to know, thanks

  10. #40
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    A couple of the posts in this thread suggest that the Stealthwake was designed specifically for rough water. Is that the case?
    Revolt 30, River Jet, Southampton Tug, Outcast 6S BLX, 8ight-E, Ten-SCBE, 22 2.0.
    '09 Miata.
    Ibanez basses and guitars. Mapex drums, Zildjian cymbals.

  11. #41
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    The Stealthwake is narrower than most boats of the same length and it has a deeper V. I gather that those things are what help it handle rough water better.

  12. #42
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    Sides are higher than most boats also.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by arrover View Post
    The Stealthwake is narrower than most boats of the same length and it has a deeper V. I gather that those things are what help it handle rough water better.
    I see. Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by be8843 View Post
    Sides are higher than most boats also.
    You mean the freeboard, right?



    I can see how that would help.

    Quote Originally Posted by arrover View Post
    Oh and then there's the fiberglass Stealthwake 30 that you need to develop....
    A 30-inch, brushless, fiberglass version of the Stealthwake would be of interest to me.
    Last edited by skeeler; 02-23-2017 at 12:06 PM.
    Revolt 30, River Jet, Southampton Tug, Outcast 6S BLX, 8ight-E, Ten-SCBE, 22 2.0.
    '09 Miata.
    Ibanez basses and guitars. Mapex drums, Zildjian cymbals.

  14. #44
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    Yes, I would like to see a 30 inch brushless version myself.

  15. #45
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    Absolutely! I would love it if it was a little longer even. Like 32"-36". Rafael has one that he tested for a while but I believe they decided against producing it. I think that's what he told me anyway.

  16. #46
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    This seems to be the only boat they don't have a larger version of.

  17. #47
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    Well, I guess if enough Stealthwakes sell, they would offer a larger model.
    Revolt 30, River Jet, Southampton Tug, Outcast 6S BLX, 8ight-E, Ten-SCBE, 22 2.0.
    '09 Miata.
    Ibanez basses and guitars. Mapex drums, Zildjian cymbals.

  18. #48
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    By the way, I like that they've given this boat a bit of military styling. It looks a bit like a Visby-class corvette:

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visby-class_corvette

    That gives this boat a different visual feel than the others in the line-up.
    Revolt 30, River Jet, Southampton Tug, Outcast 6S BLX, 8ight-E, Ten-SCBE, 22 2.0.
    '09 Miata.
    Ibanez basses and guitars. Mapex drums, Zildjian cymbals.

  19. #49
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    hey guys, have a question... i got the stealthwake and the boat is amazing, love it. Have a few questions.
    1. how do i get the water out of the haul after a run? Do i need to drill a small hole at the front, like on Traxxas Blast?
    2. If i do a little damage to the haul, considering its ABS plastic, how can it be fixed? ran in to a post on the last run, no major damage but a small knick on the nose of the haul.
    3. i have a trailer for the boat, i want somehow to secure the boat at the front on the trailer, may be attach a small loop on the haul and then use a bunggy cord to attach to the trailer. any ideas how to do it?

    Thanks for the help ahead of time

  20. #50
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    I use a paper towel or microfiber towel to soak up any water that might be in the hull after a run. Always leave the canopy off so that the boat can air dry. Sorry but I don't know how to fix ABS hull damage or about your trailer issue.

  21. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by arrover View Post
    I use a paper towel or microfiber towel...
    Wow, look who's back!

  22. #52
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    For repairs on ABS you want a 2 part acrylic glue, ordinary epoxy dosnt stick that well to ABS. You can use Devcon Plastic Welder adhesive that sticks very well to ABS. Their are various other makes of plastic weld glues on the market but Devcon I find one of the better ones on ABS.

  23. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    Wow, look who's back!
    Haha! I keep tabs on threads I've been involved with in the past and new products. I just haven't been RC boating much lately.

  24. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by arrover View Post
    This has been a great project but my opinion is that for maximum FUN, this boat is best left close to stock. Ideally it would have a small water cooled brushless motor and ESC and a metal prop. Keep the speed around 20-25mph and maintain that fun rough water ability. I believe that the Impulse 31V2 stainless prop is the same pitch and diameter as the stock plastic Stealthwake prop (1.6x 40mm)

    Thanks for the great info on setting up this boat. I'm getting ready to purchase one and am going to throw a small Dynamite brushless system in and add the metal prop as you recommended. I do have a question on the drive system though. How important would you say it is to swap the direct drive over to a flex shaft? If i'm sticking to 2-3S and around 30mph, do you feel the stock driveshaft is up to the task or would there be some diminished performance with the negative strut/prop angle?

    Thanks, Mark D.

  25. #55
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    I only ran the stock drive system with the stock motor. I changed to the flex shaft and the brushless motor at the same time so I can't comment from experience. It seems to me that the stock prop angle will continue to force the bow down harder as you put more power into it. It might not handle well but I can't say for sure. Rafael also recommended getting the prop level.

  26. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by arrover View Post
    I only ran the stock drive system with the stock motor. I changed to the flex shaft and the brushless motor at the same time so I can't comment from experience. It seems to me that the stock prop angle will continue to force the bow down harder as you put more power into it. It might not handle well but I can't say for sure. Rafael also recommended getting the prop level.

    Rgr, thanks. So it didn't look in the picture like a strut was added when you switched over to the flex cable. Just want to make sure I got that correct. Is the tight fitment of the 9/32 tubing through the ABS hull enough support when running brushless?

    Mark

  27. #57
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    You're correct, I didn't add a strut. The intent was to test it and then add one later but I never seemed to need one to support the stuffing tube. The stuffing tube never moved so I didn't add a strut. I would recommend not having a super tight fit between the stuffing tube and the hull. Mine was very tight and it caused a hull split. So make it a snug fit and then secure it inside with epoxy. I'm not saying my methods were the best way to build a Stealthwake, it's just how I did it and wanted to share.

  28. #58
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    Hey just wondering if you tried to use the sturut from a shockwave 26 along with the tube and flex shaft. I’m trying to go flex shaft but not sure if it will work I really want to avoid cracking my hull😬

  29. #59
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    No, I never tried the shockwave strut. It might work though. There is another in depth stealthwake build on this forum. You should see what he used because I believe he did install a strut.

  30. #60
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    If you don't want to crack the hull, simply open the dimater of the hole in the transom ever so slightly so that the new stuffing tube doesn't split anything open. You need to cover the entry point on the inside of the hull with epoxy anyways, so a little increased tolerance won't hurt anything.

    The Shockwave strut doesn't really do much for this application because it sits so close to the transom and the stuffing tube runs all the way through the strut itself. There would be no vertical or trim angle adjustment. The Recoil 26 strut at least has a bushing in it, which would allow you a small amount of adjustment if there was a little slop in the fitment between your new stuffing tube and the strut body. I used an adjustable stinger when I replaced my solid shaft with a flex cable. I cut the new brass stuffing tube flush with the rear of the hull (through a new, higher hole in the transom) and ran a longer teflon liner out past the transom and into the stinger. This gave me all of the vertical trim adjustment I needed because the teflon liner can flex outside of the hull.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

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