Shoe Goo for mounting a Servo

[TRUCKPULL]

I have used Shoe Goo in the past to hold my servo's in place in Fiberglass hulls.
I am putting a new Mono together.
I have put in a inner liner in the bottom of Carbon Fiber Cloth and a 1" seam tape around the seam on the inside.
Now the area where the servo will be mounted is Carbon Fiber Cloth.

Can I still Shoe Goo and what prep would be needed on the new inlay?

My other choice is Black 5200 marine glue, I am going to use this for the motor mount, and the battery tray's.
The only problem with using this to mount the servo, is you would have a VERY hard time removing it if you had to change a servo.

Larry

[kfxguy]

Not trying to be a smartass but why not use a servo mount? Maybe you've had much better luck than I have but a servo will fail from time to time and it's much easier to spend $10 for a mount and be able to unscrew it and swap it out. Seems like $10 is a small price to pay for avoiding a headache.

[longballlumber]

The only problem with using this to mount the servo, is you would have a VERY hard time removing it if you had to change a servo.
Larry

Just my opinion Larry, but I would never "glue" in a servo into a hull...

It's quite simple to build a mount using some plywood scraps for a base and some bass wood square or rectangle.

[SweetAccord]

Not only that but you would ruin the Carbon Fiber Cloth trying to remove a glued servo if it went bad. Make or get a servo mount is excellent advice, unless you can look into the future and know the servo will never fail.

[TRUCKPULL]

Not trying to be a smartass but why not use a servo mount? Maybe you've had much better luck than I have but a servo will fail from time to time and it's much easier to spend $10 for a mount and be able to unscrew it and swap it out. Seems like $10 is a small price to pay for avoiding a headache.

I have not seen a mount for a 225 MG.

Larry

[TRUCKPULL]

Not only that but you would ruin the Carbon Fiber Cloth trying to remove a glued servo if it went bad. Make or get a servo mount is excellent advice, unless you can look into the future and know the servo will never fail.

Shoe Goo is removable without any damage.

Larry

[TRUCKPULL]

Just my opinion Larry, but I would never "glue" in a servo into a hull...

It's quite simple to build a mount using some plywood scraps for a base and some bass wood square or rectangle.

Ball

This may be the way to go seeing that nobody makes a mount for a 225MG

I am going to try and keep this one neat inside.

Although the 5200 is black, it would not come out very easily, and the Shoe Goo would be a Whitish color.

Larry

[NativePaul]

Weight I would guess, I have never used, and will never use a servo mount in a race boat for that reason.

I have glued them in with epoyy and cyno in the past but UHU Acrylit Plus is my glue of choice now. I loosen the servo screws and aply a little electonic safe silicone sealant to the joints in the case and the screws, retighten the screws, wipe off any excess, apply silicone grease to the output shaft area, the next day when the silicone sealant has hardened I sand the hull bottom to roughen it up leaving the servo smooth, switch the radio on with servo attached and make sure trim is centred, fit horn, adjust linkage, clamp rudder straight but not the servo, apply glue to servo, place in and either clamp or weigh down for half an hour till the glue sets. All the servos in my current race fleet are Hitec Digitals 5-10 years old and at this point all have outsurvived at least 2 hulls usefulness.

I have done it like that for about 20 years, never had one come out unless the rudder was mangled in the crash too and it would have been undrivable anyway. I have only ripped the bottom out of 1 boat removing one, and even when fixed I am sure it was lighter than a fabricated mount and a fraction of the weight of a purchased one (not bad IMO considering my first mini was built from 1/64th ply and went through about a half a dozen micro servos before I found one up to the task). If you are worried about ripping the bottom out of a boat you can glue a sheet of thin balsa to the servo before you glue it in, a tap with a chisel will split the balsa for easy removal, yet the even if you seal the edges with epoxy it weighs under a gram.

[longballlumber]

Weight I would guess, I have never used, and will never use a servo mount in a race boat for that reason.

I have glued them in with epoyy and cyno in the past but UHU Acrylit Plus is my glue of choice now. I loosen the servo screws and aply a little electonic safe silicone sealant to the joints in the case and the screws, retighten the screws, wipe off any excess, apply silicone grease to the output shaft area, the next day when the silicone sealant has hardened I sand the hull bottom to roughen it up leaving the servo smooth, switch the radio on with servo attached and make sure trim is centred, fit horn, adjust linkage, clamp rudder straight but not the servo, apply glue to servo, place in and either clamp or weigh down for half an hour till the glue sets. All the servos in my current race fleet are Hitec Digitals 5-10 years old and at this point all have outsurvived at least 2 hulls usefulness.

I have done it like that for about 20 years, never had one come out unless the rudder was mangled in the crash too and it would have been undrivable anyway. I have only ripped the bottom out of 1 boat removing one, and even when fixed I am sure it was lighter than a fabricated mount and a fraction of the weight of a purchased one (not bad IMO considering my first mini was built from 1/64th ply and went through about a half a dozen micro servos before I found one up to the task). If you are worried about ripping the bottom out of a boat you can glue a sheet of thin balsa to the servo before you glue it in, a tap with a chisel will split the balsa for easy removal, yet the even if you seal the edges with epoxy it weighs under a gram.

How do you manage servo "issues" at an event? If you ripped up the bottom of one boat trying to un-bond a servo in a boat; that is one to many for me. That is what makes this stuff fun. Lots of answers to the same problems.

Later,
Ball

[kfxguy]

Black aquarium silicon. It's very very strong but you can slide a razor blade under it if you need to remove it. Keith turned me on to this for battery trays and I started trying it on other things. It goes a long ways and no sanding to prep it. Just clean and apply. Keith sells it on his site. You won't be disappointed

[dontrinko]

I use hot glue. A heat gun or hair dryer can be used to remove if necessary. Don

[NativePaul]

[QUOTE=longballlumber;649050]How do you manage servo "issues" at an event? If you ripped up the bottom of one boat trying to un-bond a servo in a boat; that is one to many for me. That is what makes this stuff fun. Lots of answers to the same problems./QUOTE]
Quite simply,I don't have servo "issues". If I was to have one I would have to abandon that class for that event, but I would have to if I used a mount as well as I don't have spare servos for most and don't carry the spares for those that I do. My servos along with RXs are the oldest things I still use in this hobby, about 10 years ago I found decent full size and mini servos, (Hitec digitals) waterproofed them and have been using the same ones trouble free ever since, they have seen motors, ESCs, batteries, chargers, hulls, drivelines, TX and cars to put them in, come and go around them yet still they soldier on. I have had issues in the past when the mini classes came out and I was testing micro servos, some with weak tiny plastic gears, a lack of support for the output shaft, weak bearings or metal gears that quickly got sloppy, it was ripping one of these out of a thin ply hull in the field with pliers rather than splitting it out carefully with a hammer and chisel at home that ripped bottom. I found "the micro servo" 5-6 years ago and I bought spares for it, but have long since stopped carting them around to races with me.

[longballlumber]

Larry,

What about this... http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=238

Later,
Ball

[TRUCKPULL]

Nice find Ball. I put that one in favorites.

Here is a picture of the servo in place where I want to install it.
It does not look like a mount will work.
It is now sitting on the floor of the hull, and no way of getting to the two screws that would be on the top of the mount.

I have used Shoe Goo in other boats with no problems,
As the question was in the first post.

Is any prep work required on the Carbon Fiber surface for the Shoe Goo to stick??

Larry

[longballlumber]

That's no problem Larry. Simply take a dremel and cut an oval out at the 2 locations where an access is needed. Besides if your in process of building your boat you can always change the servo position ever so slighty to make a mount work. taking a little material away from the hatch lip won't harm anything. I have done that several times. Take a look a the picture I have attached.

I still can't comprehend how gluing servo is a better solution. Of course, vibration isn't such a big deal in FE compared to Nitro. It must be my OCD. LOL




DSCF2181.JPG

[properchopper]

Larry,

I've shoehorned a servo under the deck with one of these and still had access to mounting screws : http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80094

This is a pic of it in the boat(although this is the standard-sized one). I laid the boat on its side to allow the epoxy to pool around the mounting foot area to cement it in place

[ray schrauwen]

Too hold my battery straps in my q-sport, I sand surface with 100 grit or lower and clean with solvent like laquer thinner.
I don't glue servos in but, I know your reasons.

[JimClark]

I have a piece of angle aluminum and I make whatever I need


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IMG_6162-XL.jpg

[TRUCKPULL]

That's no problem Larry. Simply take a dremel and cut an oval out at the 2 locations where an access is needed. Besides if your in process of building your boat you can always change the servo position ever so slighty to make a mount work. taking a little material away from the hatch lip won't harm anything. I have done that several times. Take a look a the picture I have attached.

I still can't comprehend how gluing servo is a better solution. Of course, vibration isn't such a big deal in FE compared to Nitro. It must be my OCD. LOL




DSCF2181.JPG

Hello Mike

Now that will work.
I do like the ides of a mount instead of glue. I just did not think it would work in this setup seeing that it will be located that far up under the lip.

Larry

[kfxguy]

I have a piece of angle aluminum and I make whatever I need


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IMG_6162-XL.jpg

I like this simple solution

[TRUCKPULL]

I have a piece of angle aluminum and I make whatever I need


20150522_201058-XL.jpg

IMG_6162-XL.jpg

Any mount that uses the regular servo screw location, will not work in this situation.
They would be almost impossible to get to the screw heads after it is in there.
This is all the way up under the side lip of a DF 29 1/2" mono.

So far I like Mike's idea from post three.
Although it will have to be short on the front part of the retainer that holds the servo where the regular screws go, because there is limited room to lift the servo out under the lip.

Larry

[Agitator]

I have not seen a mount for a 225 MG.

Larry

http://www.mastonsrcmarine.com/alumi...ini-size-servo

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80094

[ray schrauwen]

I have a piece of angle aluminum and I make whatever I need


20150522_201058-XL.jpg

IMG_6162-XL.jpg

I use this method too sometimes. I thread the mounting holes for 3mm cap screws that start with fuel tubing and tighten lightly with L shaped Allen keys and the lowest strength purple loctite. No access problems even in a df23. Use at least .0625" or thicker aluminum.