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Thread: New Seaking ESC from HobbyWing

  1. #31
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    Yup, hard to argue with 90mph (depending on props) top speed and barely above ambient motor and ESC temps. Quite happy with those results.

  2. #32
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    I don't mean high end stuff, I meant like going with TP motors instead of SSS... I'm sure efficiency would be better too, etc.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmitry100 View Post
    I don't mean high end stuff, I meant like going with TP motors instead of SSS... I'm sure efficiency would be better too, etc.
    Well I agree there only because I feel that sss are cheapest of the cheap and tp is still affordable but higher quality.
    But as long as it doing what he wants...who cares lol
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  4. #34
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    Actually my choice of SSS motor had nothing to do with the price. At least not based on the motors. They are the same price as similar sized Leopards, and about $20 cheaper than a comparable TP.

    What we discovered with the SSS motors, specifically the 4074 2200kv and 4082 2000kv, is that they have allowed us to run them on 6S while using 180a ESCs. You can't do that with Leopard or TP motors of similar size and kv without smoking the ESC or getting high temps.

    That's where the savings comes in, because I can get a 180a ESC for $85, while the Swordfish 240 is $250. That's a big difference in price. If I could run a similar price Leopard or $20 more expensive TP I would have. But these SSS motors have been outstanding for our applications.

    Like I said, I have an HPR that runs twin 2200kv motors, will do 90 mph, and come back in with motor temps just above ambient temp. You won't find a Leopard or TP motor in a 40mm can at 2200kv that will do that with a 180a ESC on 6S.

  5. #35
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    Hmm ok but isn't that because they're probably not as powerful as TP's version of the motors? Therefore not as much of amp hogs... I don't imagine it's because they're more efficient in any way... cheaper materials and all I'm sure.

    You can quite easily achieve similar speed results with a TP 4050, 4060 (at lower rpm?), or even LMT 1950 -- I've seen it done before. They'll hold up better to that higher rpm as well. Not so much with those longer cans.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmitry100 View Post
    Hmm ok but isn't that because they're probably not as powerful as TP's version of the motors? Therefore not as much of amp hogs... I don't imagine it's because they're more efficient in any way... cheaper materials and all I'm sure.

    You can quite easily achieve similar speed results with a TP 4050 or even a 4060... (It's been done before).
    I had a TP 4050 at 2050kv in my Genesis. It blew up my 180a ESC on 6S after about the 3rd run. It's still a 4083mm can, and pulled way too many amps for that application. I can run a SSS 4082 2000kv without breaking a sweat, and still get 73 mph out of it, which is similar to what the TP would do.

    It definitely has something to do with not being amp hogs. They are less powerful motors I have no doubt, since their amp ratings are lower than comparable sized motors. They are also noted as 6 rotor, but not 6 pole. Though that has been called into question as well.

    Either way, my fastest boats now run these motors, and they run cooler than anything I ever had. Its amazing to pull your boat out of the pond after a long fast SAW run, take off the hatch and find the motors at 95F, the ESCs and lipos barely above 110F. Honestly, my stock 4S Aquacraft boats run hotter temps than my HPR does.

    If you ever have the chance, try out one of their motors. In the past I would never have considered them until members of my RC group were getting these great results. Now I'm a true believer now.

  7. #37
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    Hmm. I see some german SAW guys running SSS motors... but their more beefier ones though.

    I looked up the specs for the 4074 SSS and it says they're 6 pole... is that true?

    What kind of props were you running with your 2200kv's on the hpr ?

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmitry100 View Post
    Hmm. I see some german SAW guys running SSS motors... but their more beefier ones though.

    I looked up the specs for the 4074 SSS and it says they're 6 pole... is that true?

    What kind of props were you running with your 2200kv's on the hpr ?
    I don't think they are 6-pole, but maybe 6 rotor on the stator? My box says "6 rotor". Not sure what that means to be honest.

    I know that Keith Bradley sold them on his website as their "Black Motor". But after he called his supplier, he could not confirm what timing they should be running and he stopped selling them.

    For the HPR, I am running Octura X447 L&R rotations.

    My Genesis is running the 4082 2000kv with M445 (73 mph), and my Pursuit also running the 2000kv with a Octura X642, doing about 65 mph. Both boats I can prop them up even more, though I am fine with the balance they have now.

  9. #39
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    So there is still no one that has ran this 160 pro?

  10. #40
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    Yea, we got a bit off topic there.

    I assume that ESC would be good for someone in a specific type of racing class where weight was a factor. We really don't do a lot of racing in SoCal do to the lack of lakes around here. Just mostly SAW runners in ocean water.

  11. #41
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    I have two of them. Haven't messed with them yet.
    Noisy person

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    I have two of them. Haven't messed with them yet.
    Cool let us know how you like them. What do you plan on running them in just out of curiosity?

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD Eracer View Post
    Actually my choice of SSS motor had nothing to do with the price. At least not based on the motors. They are the same price as similar sized Leopards, and about $20 cheaper than a comparable TP.

    What we discovered with the SSS motors, specifically the 4074 2200kv and 4082 2000kv, is that they have allowed us to run them on 6S while using 180a ESCs. You can't do that with Leopard or TP motors of similar size and kv without smoking the ESC or getting high temps.

    That's where the savings comes in, because I can get a 180a ESC for $85, while the Swordfish 240 is $250. That's a big difference in price. If I could run a similar price Leopard or $20 more expensive TP I would have. But these SSS motors have been outstanding for our applications.

    Like I said, I have an HPR that runs twin 2200kv motors, will do 90 mph, and come back in with motor temps just above ambient temp. You won't find a Leopard or TP motor in a 40mm can at 2200kv that will do that with a 180a ESC on 6S.
    Kind of curious about the SSS motors
    do you have a running video of this boat?
    I would love to see some passes
    Jesus is King .......NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brushless55 View Post
    Kind of curious about the SSS motors
    do you have a running video of this boat?
    I would love to see some passes
    Sure, I'll see what I can do about some vids.

    In my group, we have two HPRs that are running these motors, along with a Ariane II, a 41" Shocker Cat, C1 Flowmaster, Genesis and Pursuit.

    What's more impressive than the speeds are the low temps on the motors, ESCs, and lipos. My buddy who has a heavily modified C1 Flowmaster is going about 90 mph with these motors, and when it comes back in after a long run, his temps are usually below 100F!!! It really defies logic and what past experience has taught us.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD Eracer View Post
    Sure, I'll see what I can do about some vids.

    In my group, we have two HPRs that are running these motors, along with a Ariane II, a 41" Shocker Cat, C1 Flowmaster, Genesis and Pursuit.

    What's more impressive than the speeds are the low temps on the motors, ESCs, and lipos. My buddy who has a heavily modified C1 Flowmaster is going about 90 mph with these motors, and when it comes back in after a long run, his temps are usually below 100F!!! It really defies logic and what past experience has taught us.
    Looking forward to it !
    Jesus is King .......NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  16. #46
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    Absolutely, at least of both HPRs and the C1. They are always there every weekend. This weekend we will be at a freshwater lake which has a speed limit because a sailboating club has a weekend permit for our normal saltwater pond.

    By next Sunday I should have sum pictures & video of SSS powered boats doing some insane running.

  17. #47
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    So could just be really good clones/knockoffs of Castles/Neu?

  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmitry100 View Post
    So could just be really good clones/knockoffs of Castles/Neu?
    Someone actually thought they were machine wound versions of TP motors. In some cases they use the same end bells and cans.

    They are all made in China, they could be coming out of the same factory in different levels of spec and quality.

    On a side note, I have never seen a motor go bad yet out in the field that wasn't due to user error, such as a pinched water line for example. Not a Leopard, TP or SSS. I've had instances where motors have been soaked in sea water for over an hour before I could get to it. One of my motors was flooded numerous times with salt water over the years. And still runs like new. The only thing I did was flush and soak them with fresh water, then spray the insides down with CorrosionX, and they were perfect again.

    These brushless motors are usually very robust and reliable even at the low end, at least for me they have rarely been the weak link to any of my drive-trains.

  19. #49
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    I just got one of these new v4 esc's in the mail. I will be installing it in a PX300 tunnel because of its low profile. I run the servo and esc exposed in the stern because they are waterproof, and I don't care for cable steering, too much room for slack. I did have to order the LCD program box because the LED card will not handle all the programmable functions on the new esc. I will post results after first test.

  20. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by covedweller View Post
    I just got one of these new v4 esc's in the mail. I will be installing it in a PX300 tunnel because of its low profile. I run the servo and esc exposed in the stern because they are waterproof, and I don't care for cable steering, too much room for slack. I did have to order the LCD program box because the LED card will not handle all the programmable functions on the new esc. I will post results after first test.
    V4 esc? Do you mean the 160 pro?

  21. #51
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    Yes, MX, I contacted hobbywing and they refer to the new 160 pro as a V4 model.

  22. #52
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    Cool let us know how you like it

  23. #53
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    Still haven't put connectors on them. Been too busy to mess with them.

    I wanted to try them on a P limited setup for a short burst once you're at full chap so to speak. The more I think on it though the less optimistic I am that this will be practical. I could totally see me not being sure which position it's in and my dumb a$$ plowing through a turn at high timing. Then trying to climb out at the highest amperage the boat sees and............bzztbzztbzzzzt. We all know the sweet sweet sound of a dropped phase off the motor. I struggled with a third channel on a scale canard wing. I could never be sure where I left it last.

    Has anyone messed with setting one of these up? You're supposed to be able to control the timing with the third channel. I can't figure out how to do that with my Spektrum. The instructions on the radio are not very clear and Spektrum tech has opted to ignore my request for guidance. I need one of the thumb buttons to basically trigger an on/neutral/off. They're three position buttons so push left for off, push right for on kind of thing would be perfect. Could be I'm a dim bulb but I just can't cypher it.
    Noisy person

  24. #54
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    Yea i dunno about the whole 3rd channel timing thing... having auto timing probably would make it obsolete.

    Comes off a little ghetto to say the least, or "Over engineered". Would of been better if they focused on improving ESC performance (better cooling and what not).

  25. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by covedweller View Post
    I just got one of these new v4 esc's in the mail. I will be installing it in a PX300 tunnel because of its low profile. I run the servo and esc exposed in the stern because they are waterproof, and I don't care for cable steering, too much room for slack. I did have to order the LCD program box because the LED card will not handle all the programmable functions on the new esc. I will post results after first test.
    After unboxing, I see that the reduction in overall height is made up for in a longer wider footprint. Really long! I am in the process of reworking the rear bulkhead on the tunnel I plan to install it on. There is no longer an on off switch, that is the turbo channel now. Also gone are the inline capacitors, there are 3 large ones on the power in end of the esc. I will post more with progress.

  26. #56
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    Well, I tracked down the program box. When you plug it in it goes into a mode where it is "connecting to ESC" and there it stays. Forever.
    Noisy person

  27. #57
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    I think a longer/wider design is better as it has more surface area for additional cooling. Anyone experiment with this yet? A tad bit of Artic Silve adhesive (or just mix appropriate amounts of epoxy and aluminum oxide), tubing, and you're good to go...

    TsDavis, have you tried using any sort of button combinations? Try pressing each button one at a time, all of them at the same time and so on... see if that changes anything. I've had a program box that only worked after pressing 2 particular buttons at the same time-- its weird but thats how they sometimes make them... not very user friendly at all at times.

  28. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    Well, I tracked down the program box. When you plug it in it goes into a mode where it is "connecting to ESC" and there it stays. Forever.
    From OSE website- Notes: This will not work with the standard Seaking program box. Requires pn# ker-100pro Multifunction LCD Professional Program Box.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  29. #59
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    This is what Hobbywing shows on their website and is the one I bought.

    http://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?i...ilter_attr=564
    Noisy person

  30. #60
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    I just downloaded the software that goes with it. Pretty slick. Reminds me of the old Castle link stuff. Only downside is that there are predetermined timing setting. Not a giant deal though. I wanted to see if my programmer had the latest firmware. It does. I don't have a speedo in hand to try it on.

    This thing will also check your cell voltage. You can plug your taps in just like an EOS unit. Doesn't give percentage but does give you per cell voltage and such. That's kinda cool too.

    I'll screw with it some more this evening.

    I should have mentioned. I did run one this pasted Saturday. Timing was a tick high for a limited boat at 15 degrees but I though the throttle was nice and smooth. I was running in 33 degree water so no real data of value.
    Noisy person

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