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Thread: New Seaking ESC from HobbyWing

  1. #61

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    Hello Terry

    I must have been searching and reading, I misted your last post before I made this post.

    I don't if you tried it this way or not.

    I found this information in the ESC manual not the program box manual.
    http://www.hobbywing.com/products/en...ingPRO160A.pdf

    It says that you have to plug in both receiver plugs into the program box.
    Also from reading the program box manual, I think you need a battery and a motor plugged into the ESC also. - Using the battery plug to turn on the ESC.


    Larry
    Last edited by TRUCKPULL; 04-11-2016 at 04:49 PM.
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  2. #62

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    I think you found my problem Larry. Good eye sir. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
    glue sniffer

  3. #63

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    Out of the box, the program box needs a firmware upgrade to work for boats. Its on hobbywing website. Three wire esc plug goes in far right plug single wire goes in center plug.

  4. #64

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    Okay, here's what I found.

    Plugged the esc in the right way this time. Plugged in a battery pack to the ESC. Program box says "upgrade software". So I take the next step and plug the box into the laptop and run the Hobbywing link software. It reads the ESC like it knows whats going on. I go to the firmware upgrade button. It does it's thing. Upgrades the firmware. From the software I can change anything I want and apply it. I unplug everything and try the prog box on it's own without the PC. Still says "upgrade software". If I take that next step and connect to the PC it reads the settings and they are where I left them.

    Everything is set the way I want it but I'm clearly missing something. I suspect I missed an upgrade button for the box itself but I don't have time to keep screwing with it. After Atlanta I'll mess with it some more.

    I've had great luck with Hobbywing thus far so I'm pretty optimistic about this one. If we could just get them to make an HV over 130 and maybe a 250amp LV.
    glue sniffer

  5. #65

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    Well, we've had some opportunities to race a few of these. The function is just as we would expect. Runs just like all the Hobbywing ESC's do. Predictable. Being thin it fits places a 180 wont. It does take up a larger footprint though.

    I don't think this new unit is constructed as well as the others. I strap these down in my limited mono just in case. So nothing moves around in there. The case broke on it one of these. Once that happens, even a whiff of water and it's not going to work anymore. Think I'm going to go back to 180's.
    glue sniffer

  6. #66

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    Well, we've had some opportunities to race a few of these. The function is just as we would expect. Runs just like all the Hobbywing ESC's do. Predictable. Being thin it fits places a 180 wont. It does take up a larger footprint though.

    I don't think this new unit is constructed as well as the others. I strap these down in my limited mono just in case. So nothing moves around in there. The case broke on it one of these. Once that happens, even a whiff of water and it's not going to work anymore. Think I'm going to go back to 180's.
    I was just about to ask about these speed controls and then saw your comment

    could you tell us why the 180's are better in your opinion ?

    thanks
    Jesus is King .......NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  7. #67

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    The function is pretty much the same. I didn't notice any difference between them at the trigger. I don't think it's necessarily "better". It's just that the construction of the 180 is tougher in my opinion. I beat the crap out of my stuff. That's why I rarely sell anything. I expect a failure electronically not physically. I broke a Turnigy180 last summer pumping too many amps. It still functions but I can't push it even a little. I've even run them under water. Not recommended but it survived. Other than that I've never had one fail due to amperage or mechanical damage. This new one I've had in the water about 2 weeks and already the case is broke and the speedo is shot. It's not like I drove into a wall with it. I didn't crash the boat. Flipped sure but everything was strapped into what I would consider a low performance boat so how can the case have broken? Weird.

    The turbo function is a neat idea but for ovals I don't think it's very practical. Extra timing more often than not just makes heat anyway. To race with it you'll have to remember to click the timing up once your full throttle and running free. Then remember to kick it down to turn. Then kick it up once you are running full boogy again. Too soon......more heat. More heat, more heat, more heat........aaaand fr'shizzle my motor is baked. So I'm driving a line, working the throttle, watching the other boats, racing them, don't jump the start (pit man says I better tighten it up)............oh and now fiddle with the timing 24 times per heat. Ugh. I ain't that good.

    I'm not sure better is the right word. It's probably not fair to condemn the whole new line due to one guys experience. For me, the 180 is 20 more amps for about 8 more dollars maybe.
    glue sniffer

  8. #68

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    Edit.....I broke the caps off of an Atomic version of the 180. I think I was crushing the whole unit with it being to close to the canopy. I had bought this one second hand from a local and he had relocated the caps via long wires. Really goofy. So I relocated them back to where they belonged. I apparently didn't do a very good job. That's what cost me P mono in Atlanta.
    glue sniffer

  9. #69

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    Awesome thanks man !
    Jesus is King .......NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  10. #70

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    Quote Originally Posted by grsboats View Post
    We are lucky to have reliable budget esc's like the 180A's....have used them since the V1 with sucess even with motors with high kv's on 6S/7S. Gill
    Is the turnigy marine 180A basically the same esc?

    Thanks

  11. Default

    yep
    GO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
    www.grsboats.com.br

  12. #72

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    Thanks bud

  13. #73

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    Quote Originally Posted by golani4455 View Post
    Is the turnigy marine 180A basically the same esc?

    Thanks

    It's just a rebadged version, however it has certain advantages over the SeaKing branded 180...

    - Better capacitor banks
    - 1 year warranty through Hobbyking, easy replacement if you have a problem. Seaking you will need to submit quite a bit of info and their warranty is only 3 months.
    - About $30 cheaper than Seaking.

    So it's cheaper, has a longer warranty while being easier to submit for RMA and comes with better capacitors. I don't know why anyone would buy the SeaKing over the Turnigy.

  14. #74

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    I was gonna go ahead and order 2 for my zonda boat but they currently out of stock at hobbyking.

  15. #75

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    Hi

    Do you think the seeking 160A pro is equal in performance to the 180A?

    Thanks

  16. Default

    I can't say too much about tje 160 as I never used it but the 180 is a good unit.Gill
    GO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
    www.grsboats.com.br

  17. #77

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    Ok cool, I was gonna order the turnigy marine 180A but they are still on back order. And I just found a good deal on this 160A pro for $87 shipped so I thought I would go for it.

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