New Spartan owner with some questions

[Tbone77]

I just picked up a used Spartan and have a few questions:

1. The esc is burnt out. I called Traxxas and an exchange replacement esc is $95. Thinking that it may be better to install a Seaking or Turnigy esc. Any opinions on this?
(motor is the stock one that came with the vxl6s system).

2. The boat came with a beat up plastic prop and a nice X440 brass prop. From what I read the stock prop is 42mm and the brass replacement should be X442. I've also been told to run the aquacraft 4266 prop. Any advice on this?

3. The hull is separating at the seam, I assume this can be bonded and sealed? Would like some suggestions on what adhesive to use for this.

4. I have a new drive cable and new drive strut. The strut I got is the stock replacement as the original one was worn way out of round. Can the wear of the drive strut bushings be reduced or eliminated by regular greasing/cleaning/regreasing or is the wear unavoidable? Also looking for recommendations on grease for the driveline. I assume that a marine grease of some sort would work but is there a concern for excessive drag if over greased or incorrect grease is used?

5. Is there a good guide for setting up the boat?


I've read a bunch online about these boats but it's tough to determine what's mandatory to get it running reliably and what upgrades are just to improve on the stock performance. I'm planning to run on 4s at first but will definitely stepping up to 6s.

Thanks

[SpartanDriver]

I have 3 boats I use the stock esc it is rated up to 32 volts at peak. look on E Bay you can find a esc traxxas for less I would stick to a traxxas easier on radio setup. The motor is a 1650kV. I use 4 poles Leopard brushless 3674 2200KV motor (Max Current: 90A Battery Cell Count: Max 27V 2200kv Max Watts: 2400W) with either a 48mm 1.6/3 blade or a 51mm 1.6/3 blade both rev up to a good 70mph+ depending on chop I run 22.2 volt batteries 5000amh I get a good 10 to 15 minutes I also add weight to the rear of the boat (two dead Lipos). make sure you clamp the canopy down and go with dual water ups of choice.
You can look me up here, to see what I have done so far. I don't use tape I made hatch clips to hold down the covers. I use blue water proof axle grease for boat trailers works well, do add some to the stuffing shaft at the back of the boat it will slow any water getting into the boat and get a splash guard it is amazing how much water gets into the boat when the boat goes backwards lol. As far as the hull goes just use silicone of type to seal where the separation is it will do, not much you can do unless you buy a new hull. I have replaced two so far (silly me boat and concert don't mix) lol. As far as guide mine is setup on strut 1mm up from the factory setting (if you don't have the book traxxas sells them) trims are set level with the hull gives a real nice roaster tail I have no chine walk or torque issues at all. Boats stay wright on the water edge and is just a little wet, it doesn't bounce like most do, a clean run with a lot of fun. This is one of the most misunderstood boats on the market when setup right it is a great boat to play with.
Hope the info helps

[MG1234]

I would tape the hatch ,it doesn't fit well as it is and blowes off then your boat sinks ,the stock ESC dosent last long when you work it ,I went with a seaking,buy a bigger prop than the stock plastic ,if you buy the same size it will run the same ,no gain,I started with a 445, buy marine grease at an auto supply store ,remove the shaft after each day dry it and grease it don't let it sit wet it will rust,re tape ,at your hardware there is a red vinyle tape that looks like duct tape but it's plastic ,works really good because it's wide ,I tape the entire lid ,if you go upsidedown your boat will fill with water ,oil you motor bearings every couple of times out ,