Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 61 to 90 of 227

Thread: Largest Motor/ESC Combo In JAE Mini Sprint

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riversidedan View Post
    ok so which one would you advise on the outside of the ski, silicone or epoxy?
    Epoxy is best!

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wa
    Posts
    103

    Default

    well ya know what , the more I look at it the more am doubtful about getting it to drip inside, so will have to do with sealing it from the outside, if that makes any sense

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riversidedan View Post
    well ya know what , the more I look at it the more am doubtful about getting it to drip inside, so will have to do with sealing it from the outside, if that makes any sense
    You drip epoxy in the inside the ski channel and let it fill in the ditch where the drive tube lays inside the hull and it will flow to the back on the inside where the shaft tube exits the back. Put in enough to reach the top on the inside of the ski and level with the hulls floor. Then let the tub lay on a flat table level it (the hull) and the epoxy will level out and cure. 30 min epoxy is what I used. Keep checking it every 3 min to be sure it's level and does not move. Once that is dry you are supposed to do the outside spot you are referring to. This will do a few things, add strength to your drive line and never move, give strength to the bottom of the hull, seal the exit side of the drive tube in the rear where it exits the hull/ski.
    Last edited by SweetAccord; 09-25-2015 at 10:37 PM.

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wa
    Posts
    103

    Default

    ok I hear ya and we gotta couple things going on Im concerned about, #1 if I dump glue in the ski its gonna be real hard to install the collect on the motor cuzz rear sponson tube is in the way Ive already tried it, but could be wrong? that means the stuff tube wont be able to move in order to put the collect on........aside from that was thinking I could just put some tape over the outside of the ski to stop the glue from dripping out, whatdoya think?

    BTW I made the servo removable and is siliconed to the floor just incase "servo floor not glued in yet"
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    Much better on the rudder support. You are supposed to tack the drive tube down with CA glue once it's all straight so it won't move. Use very little as a lot is not needed. Yes tape the back, take servo out so not in the way. You can do this two ways;

    1. Make enough epoxy for whole channel. Pour in the epoxy and let it fill in the ski channel, start with the rear and then place hull horizontal to let the epoxy flow to the back to seal in the read ski that is deep in the rear end of the hull. Then lay tub flat and lay more in there so it's all filled in.

    2. Make enough epoxy for just the rear area. Pour a little of the epoxy and let it fill in the ski channel, place hull horizontal to let the epoxy flow to the back to seal in the read ski and let that part dry. Once dry, make enough to do the rest of the ski channel, then lay tub flat and pour in the ski channel to fill in the rest up to the motor to the rear.

    #2. May be easier for you, but on my first attempt I did #1 and was worried but epoxy flowed evenly front to back in one shot and came out nice. I poured front to back and went back and forth like pouring honey and it will lay down evenly I promise. Don't be scared. Just watch how much you pour in that it does not go over the tub floor level is all. Less is more in this case!
    Last edited by SweetAccord; 09-25-2015 at 11:15 PM.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wa
    Posts
    103

    Default

    ok but how am I spose to hookup the collect/motor with the drive tube glued in??
    like I said tried hooking them up but had to move the tube around, ohwell will find a way
    Last edited by riversidedan; 09-25-2015 at 11:25 PM.

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    Install the motor, install wire drive, with collet and drive line installed, line everything up. Then tack down the drive tube. Remove everything, motor and collet. Do the above #1 or #2.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wa
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Ha, that's where I was mistaken cuzz I don't have the motor yet but now I see your point>>>>>>>>>dope slap

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    Yes! LOL. You need it!! Can't really move forward then. Can't align anything up.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wa
    Posts
    103

    Default

    no motor yet and still tweaking boom deminsions to get it square but its coming along
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by riversidedan; 09-30-2015 at 06:24 PM.

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    Looks good!

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wa
    Posts
    103

    Default

    thanx man will be back with more questions BTW whats the normal AUW weight for these boats?
    Last edited by riversidedan; 09-30-2015 at 06:49 PM.

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    Less than 2 lbs I'm sure is ideal and can be achieved. The first one was built I think is tad heavy as I did epoxy inside and out per instructions and is 1.9 lbs, 861 grams in running trim. The second one I built, and learned from the first one, built it for speed and lightness, so I did thicker balsa support bars on the inside frame, and not epoxy the inside to ease off on weight. I have not weighed it but I can easily feel and tell it's a lot lighter than the first one.

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riversidedan View Post
    no motor yet and still tweaking boom deminsions to get it square but its coming along
    I don't seem to see the overhangs on the sponsons? Can't tell in the pic, but did you shave them even? Not per the spec again. Page 23, " Note that these overhangs don't get sanded off"

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wa
    Posts
    103

    Default

    your right looks like I spaced it out , back to the shop and should be an easy fix, thanx
    Last edited by riversidedan; 10-01-2015 at 01:42 PM.

  16. #76
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    GB
    Posts
    2,726

    Default

    Mine is 625-650g (22-23oz) RTR depending on whether I run a <110g Naviga pack or a <140g pack for local racing. Mine is built from the kit to the kit instructions epoxied inside and out, painted in 2 colours onto a silver paint base and raced for 4 years with several repairs adding a little weight. I cant get stock (3/16?) carbon tubes here in the UK so when I broke my first set I sleeved the brass down to 4mm and run 4mm solid rods, I didn't fill the ski with epoxy just a little thickened with microballoons on the end to hold it in place and seal it and a dribble underneath it.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  17. #77
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riversidedan View Post
    your right looks like I spaced it out , back to the shop and should be an easy fix, thanx
    Welcome.

  18. #78
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wa
    Posts
    103

    Default

    So are those edges on the sponsons only on the front 1/2 ahead of the step ??
    Last edited by riversidedan; 10-01-2015 at 07:12 PM.

  19. #79
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riversidedan View Post
    So are those edges on the sponsons only on the front 1/2 ahead of the step ??
    They are on the rear on both and on the rear of the transom of the hull also.

    Peek at these pics:

    http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uH6QxRcCdU...s-IMG_1818.jpg

    http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-liMqup6QRV...s-IMG_1825.jpg

    The bottom of the sponson is longer has a 1-2mm lip, it's not an error in design or cut. It's the ride pad(s) of the rigger.
    Last edited by SweetAccord; 10-01-2015 at 08:23 PM.

  20. #80
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wa
    Posts
    103

    Default

    b4 I screw up again check this out and tell me if it looks right, BTW had to use 1/8 lite ply
    Attached Images Attached Images

  21. #81
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riversidedan View Post
    b4 I screw up again check this out and tell me if it looks right, BTW had to use 1/8 lite ply
    If you are just adding this to the bottom, I don't know how it will run as the AOA is not the same as designed. You can try, I hope it's ok, not seen anyone built it this way before. If you wish to just add to the sponson, the rear is good. Front is not flat but I guess you will just fill it in like you did on the hull too, so yes that is better than before. I hope she runs well for you.

  22. #82
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wa
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Aoa?? tell me what I need to make it right, I don't quite get ya, is the 1/8 ply to thick? what I have pictured is just a mock up to see if its right, will then fill in the empty spots, is that all?

  23. #83
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    GB
    Posts
    2,726

    Default

    There is no need to overlap the sides like that, you have the right idea with the overlaps on the bottom, although the front sheet could come back a couple of mm to fully overlap the bevel on the rear sheet. AoA is angle of attack, running a 1/8" ride plate will lift the front up but not the back resulting in a higher angle of attack on both the sponsons and the ski, it will tend to make it faster on flat water but more squirrely to drive and not handle rough water as well. thinner ride pads would be better, 1/32 ply, glass, carbon, ABS, etc, also liteply is pretty soft for sponson bottoms and will get dinged easily, if it is really all you have then glue them together over the sponsons without gluing them to the sponsons, and epoxy coat them separately, then try running the boat with and without them to see what works best for you.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  24. #84
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    3,112

    Default

    I say RUN IT! if your happy with the performance don't worry about it.

    what is the worst case; you buy a new kit for $100 bucks? Then you would have one to lend to a buddy and do some mini racing!

    Have Fun,
    Ball

  25. #85
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    I just weighed my V2.0 that was my second build for lightness and speed and it's 522 grams, which is 1.151 lbs, no battery all else in running trim.

  26. #86
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wa
    Posts
    103

    Default

    ok heres what Im understanding>>>>>>>>> find some thinner material and attach as shown in the pic below using a 2mm over hang on the front edges of the sponson, and fair in the front part

    think I found a perfect solution and found some 1/16 FG that will be just right...........about 2 mm over hang on the sides from the step to the front,check out the pic
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by riversidedan; 10-02-2015 at 06:58 PM.

  27. #87
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riversidedan View Post
    ok heres what Im understanding>>>>>>>>> find some thinner material and attach as shown in the pic below using a 2mm over hang on the front edges of the sponson, and fair in the front part

    think I found a perfect solution and found some 1/16 FG that will be just right...........about 2 mm over hang on the sides from the step to the front,check out the pic
    That looks perfect! Sand and paint.
    Last edited by SweetAccord; 10-02-2015 at 08:47 PM.

  28. #88
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    GB
    Posts
    2,726

    Default

    You don't need the overhangs on the sides unless you are going for a very low power setup.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  29. #89
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NativePaul View Post
    You don't need the overhangs on the sides unless you are going for a very low power setup.
    Correct and I don't think he is, that is why I mentioned "sand & paint" as that's what it looks like he has done initially and this was just a lets check first before making it permanent. I hope you (riversidedan) are making it fast as that is just sad to make a rigger a low power setup.

  30. #90
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wa
    Posts
    103

    Default

    will get it figured out and thanx fo the help

Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •