Your last pic, you didn't sand the tub before gluing down the front skid plate? Are you planning to level that?, you have a big gap in there. You should.
Your last pic, you didn't sand the tub before gluing down the front skid plate? Are you planning to level that?, you have a big gap in there. You should.
it sez to leave leave that part sticking up to shed water is that not right?? also I plan on filling that gap
Accord is correct.
That instruction is on sheet 11 of the instructions. They want to you sand in a bevel on the aft sheet allowing the front to sit flat with a sharp trailing edge...
Yes, as longballlumber stated. Two things, 1. It is to be level with the tub, so the AOA matches the design specs, and 2. it is the hardest part of the build I felt. It takes a lot of time to sand that area to get it at the right angle. Do take the time to make it flat and even. It's the main part that the front of the rigger the water rides on to get the rigger on plane.
Strengthen the ply rudder bracket, otherwise it will snap if you start pushing the speed.
that's what the pic shows on page 19 is this not correct? is sez to leave the front plate edge flat at the end
another question>>>>>>>>> someone said to reinforce the ply rudder piece, how many have cut that off and used the metal rudder extension that came with the kit??
Last edited by riversidedan; 09-22-2015 at 03:26 PM.
It's difficult to see in your picture because it's so fuzzy, but it does look like there is a gap. I found a different picture that helps I hope. circled area is where you should have sanded and the red outline is the skin that gets glued on.
the question is; from a side view is there a GAP between the front skin (or sheeting) and the tub sides?
am aware of the gap just waiting to fill it in, but does the end sticking up where the water sheds look right?
Also like Martin said, if you plan to run a hot motor and do high speed turns, re-enforce the rudder.
this help? like I said that gap will be filled on both sides
Last edited by riversidedan; 09-22-2015 at 08:45 PM.
Yes that helps, but again, this is still not how it's supposed to be built per the specs of the plans as the AOA is off. Will it effect the hulls attitude? Not sure, I built per the plans. It's up to you if you do not wish to build it per the plans. It is to be flush with the hull not laid on top and then filled in. I'm sure the JAE designer(s) would have done it your way if it was right or better, but did not for a reason. A lot of designing went into this hull, but again it's up to you.
well then will just have to get it right, heres something else that doesn't make sense and have read it 10 times! the plans say to put the sponson rib with the 1/8 holes on the right inside foam sponson, but howbout the rib that has the holes for the dowls ?? I don't get it
never mind was a bit tricky till I looked on pg 28 and figured it out
Last edited by riversidedan; 09-22-2015 at 11:55 PM.
I would cut the front bottom sheet off and refit it as per the instructions if you can, i doubt the way you have done it will noticablt affect the running of it as it is only a small AoA difference in a part that doesnt often toucht the water when up and running, but it would have a lot more glueing area for strength.
I followed the written instructions you have there and did it the opposite way round to how you have it in that photo, and would do so again. The screws go through the turnfin and the small holes on the inside of the sponson and into the dowels, all the force on the turnfin is then trying to pull the large dowels through the small holes which is impossible. The way you have it there it would be possible (though unlikely) for the force on the turn fin to pull the dowels out of the sponson (the one with the big holes goes on the other (out)side of the sponson). However it is not critical, the online instructions say you can do it either way, and actually recommend it is done the way you have it in your photo for ease of building.
Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.
Yes that is correct. You got it. You can add a rudder reinforcement like Martin suggested also. If you look in my gallery you can see how I did mine with spare wood left over from the kit. Zipkits should just add that to the design as the wood it there and just have to shape it a little to make it work.
your white rigger looks real good, how come no water kooling?
FYI to all these are actually Scorpion motors: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=25677
I ordered two and they say Scorpion on them. These are great outrunners! Enjoy!
sounds good and my question is, what does ESC amp size have to do with a ESC not being water kooled?? I had assumed all marine boats had to have the ESC/motor kooled, am I wrong?
anyway making progress but the right sponson needs tweaking, don't worry I just threw the sponsons on for the pic
Last edited by riversidedan; 09-23-2015 at 09:15 PM.
If the ESC is rated higher that the motor rating/pulls in amps, and the ESC does not over heat for the full time of the run, you don't need to water cool it. Plus it's a airplane ESC anyways, they are not water cooled they are air cooled but since it does not heat up and is over rated why need water cooling.
I gotta say after much sanding tweaking and getting everything square its fianally coming together but did run into some problems along the way that were my fault. Anyone thinking about this kit will not be disappointed! For a mere $100 you get everything except motor, esc,servo and radio, everythings their.
still have some things to do but very happy with the kit and wont hesitate to buy another
the scale sez a bit under 8 oz dry
Last edited by riversidedan; 09-25-2015 at 12:43 AM.
Your photography has come a long way in a short time as well as your building skills.
Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.
I agree with Paul. Looks good! Before you finish her up, do enforce the rudder a little. Add a piece of triangle or straight dowel between the rudder and the rear transom. Below is a pic of my version 2 as on my first one I did it on the outside but then realized it was overkill for my type of running. The other way is less weight and will provide rudder support but depends what you are doing on the water with it. https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hmentid=136685 and https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hmentid=136676. You can see I added a square block between the rudder and transom that is level with the rudder to give that little area more support. You can do it on the outside or the inside. Outside will be stronger for the best support, inside will be less stronger but is all you need if you are not doing high speed turns and just straight runs. You also can add bearing in the drive line. It's not that hard to add in.
thanx guyz and you prolly didn't know Ive been building models for around 40 years and have had some sucsessful boat experience around 2000, then the airplane fever hit me again, now its back to these very neat fast electrix! Thank goodness I ran across the great Mini rigger kit so that's what got me started again, and yes the triangle piece would be a good mod. Am also interested with that stuffing tube bearing thing and have some sitting around that would prolly fit, also curious about that wire drive thing and wanting to know the advantages,see ya again with more questions and thanx for the help.
another question>>>>>>>I think the manual sez to dump some epoxy into the inside of the ski where the stuffing tube fits to make a fillet so the water wont get in, well Ive already glued on the ski so wondering if I could make the fillet outside, or if Im lucky drip some glue inside the ski where the tube in then keep working the tub so it wont get glued in, or howbout smearing silicone on the outside to seal the hole, get the picture?
I did wire drive for a few reasons. The main reason was not having to remove it to lube it. I run a lube tube I made down the copper shaft tube and add lube or oil. I also like the collette on a wire drive as it holds better with less tear on the motor coupler. Also a wire drive has way less mass so the centrifugal force can reach higher speeds and does not compress under speed, one less thing to worry about binding.
Last edited by SweetAccord; 09-25-2015 at 07:48 PM.
Yes!! Add in both places and seal off. Pour some in on the outside if can't on inside area just for support alone, + it will water seal off that area. That area is under stress/load and needs to be strong and sealed off. It's the last part that exists the hull and holds/supports the shaft spinning at 35xxx RPM+.
As for bearings, you want the following: 1. 1/8 x 1/4 x 7/64 flanged and two of the same unflanged or you can also do 3 of the 1/8x1/4x7/64 unflanged and place 3 in there like I did. Either way works. If and when I ever remove the drive line again I may put a flanged in but it's not critical as the 3 unflanged are held in by the existing shaft tube. Amazon has these bearings. Boca bearings are nice too. Be sure to spray with any type of corrosion resistant spray to help make them last.
ok so which one would you advise on the outside of the ski, silicone or epoxy?
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