Blackjack v3 runs to hot on 6s

[waterproof]

Hello.

First run i used the boat for about 2 minutes, then checking the temp.
After 7 minutes it got this tempratures that is ok:

Esc 48c /118F
Motor 48c / 118F
Lipos 32c /89F
Battery connectors ec5 40-44c/ 104-111,2F
But today i tryed it again and it was very hot! Only different thing i did was to adjust the prop littlebit higher so the sponsons rest on the table.

After 6 minutes it was VERY HOT.
Battery Connectors showed 100C but when i tryed again it show 80C/176F
Motorcables 72C/161F
Esc shows first about 70C/161F and when i mesured again it was 58C/136F
Lipo 50C/122F

The tempratures falls very fast when the hatch is off. This time i runned it with more trottle over time, and this time it was way hotter than the first time.

82C/176F is way to hot for the Connectors, When do the soldering melts?

What could i do now? Could the soldering on every cable or the esc have taken damage already?
Should i return the boat to the store?
The wierd thing is that the v2 with 80A esc runs mutch cooler.

Not a issue with the water cooling system, waterline flows fine and the flex shaft is in the middle of the motor screw..
It sure runs smooth and fast, but when its just seconds before something melt it not help so mutch..
Will the timing on 7.5 work better?
What is normal max tempratures? And when do the connectors melt or the soldering job on each cable be loose?

I also remember that when i start from zero speed the boat was "Heavy" at back like you have air around the prop so you must give more trottle for get the boat flat up and run. What could that be?
It not acting like that first time i run it, the strut was stock poisision and now the strut is litte higher so the sponsons it flat on the table.


Happy 4 july to all in America :)

[waterproof]

Have looking for issues now and the strange thing is that the flex shaft was almost empty for grease and the little grease that was left is black and you could see it on the paper, almost nothing left on the shaft.
I Regrease it before the run with a lot of grease on the shaft.. You could also spot a black color rear on the shaft, unsure if its because of heat or is just have that color.. On the pics inside the boat you can see the grease is there, and not in the driveshaft system, why do that happen?
Any wrong of the strut pipe posission?
The black spot on flex is where the strut is, unsure about it since it looks like the black pattern is something from the factory since it have a Sharp spot from where its gold and where the black spot is.

Strange that the flexshaft didnt leeak water when it was so "dry" after run
IMG_2911.jpgIMG_2912.jpgIMG_2913.jpgIMG_2914.jpgIMG_2908.jpg

[kfxguy]

The way to adjusted to strut may be making the boat run wetter, and in the nose of it being pushed down. Make sure the prop isn't slightly angled down. It may need a degree or tow of positive (pointed up). If it's cavitating a lot you may have the strut too high. Also when you move the strut, your drive dog to strut clearance will change, the cable shrinks under load so it may be hitting the strut.

[waterproof]

Hi, i have adjusted the strut just a littlebit up since it was running to wet out of the box. I had 2mm gap between the strut and drive dog :)
So i think this is not the issue, but thanx for trying to helping me, it could be a mystery and every part and things could be a issue so we have Clear this two thing off the list :)

[waterproof]

Todays tryout is stock boat with the same strut height, sponsons flat on the table with the strut. Timing 7.5.

It helped to take the timing to 7.5 on everything but not the motor connections.

Weather is hot 27c/80F where the sun not shine.
Water was 24c/75F

3 minutes runtime:

battery connectors 45c/ 113F
motor connectors 68c/154F
Esc on capitors 54c/129F
motor 50c/122F
lipo 35c/90F

Just taped the hatch and run it for 1 minute 30 seconds just to see the motor cable been hotter or not.

Motor connector 83c/181F
esc on capitors 60c/140F and 51c/141F on the rest of the esc
battery connectors 55c/131F
motor 57c/134F
Lipo 40c/104F

Its just not my lipo eighter and the battery Connector seems fine now? But it to hot temprature on the motor connections. How hot could it be before it melt or damage the esc?
What is the max temp of good temp?

Since the boat is not 6s ready this version eighter im dissapointed.
If i buy a miss Geico 1500kv motor, then the heat will be gone on the connectors?
What is different/better with 5s 2000kv motor vs 6s 1500kv?
It would run 33000rpm with the Geico motor, but would it be 45mph fast like it should run?
37000rpm on 5s with the 2000kv motor.
What about a 1750kv motor? The New proboat impulse came with a 4082 motor, maby to big for Stock flex?

I would like to get some advice to what i should do.
Keep the New 3s batteries and run it with lover kv, who motor should i look for?
Any motor that have the same size on the Connectors like the Stock one?
I Could also buy another batteries, but i will try to not use so mutch Money since i just bought the boat and 2x 3s 5200mh 35c batteries that cost 100 Dollar each but i im willing to do whats right.

[Leadfingers]

I am having similar problems running 6's. after a couple of short runs, the motor connectors 165F and the esc leads about the same 165F.
Keep us posted, good luck.

[oscarel]

Is this stock and does it have a 2000kv motor? If so, 6s is way too much and that's probably the reason you're getting things hot. Also, proper after run maintenance (greasing shaft) is necessary. What you described in your first post about the black grease is normal. This in not an issue for the hobby shop, it's normal maintenance and running outside what the boat was designed for is probably not warrantied. Also, once you go back to an appropriate battery count for the kv try marking the strut where it's at now, then moving it up as far as it will go and level. If it cavitates, lower in 1-2mm increments until it stops. Moving it all the way up should raise the bow when it runs.

[waterproof]

Stock motor is a 6P 2000kv 36x62mm With a 120A esc. The proboat say it 6s capible.
So the grease is just fine and nothing wrong wrong With my drive system? I always regrease after each run.
Do you mean the grease is like this because the motor have to mutch kv or is this normal?

I have couple of alternative from what they stock in my country now:

Buy a 2s to use With my other 3s to make 5s. Would the heat help a lot on the connectors?
Remember the small motor cable on impulse 31v2 on 6s was dam hot also. A bit better on 5s but i dont know since this new motor have 2000kv.

Run it with 6s lipo and change motor to one of this:

Proboat miss Geico v2 motor 3630-1500Kv, 6-pole
Leopard - LBP3660/3Y-1720kv
TP Power - 3640-9D-1600KV TP Power - 3640-5Y - 1550KV
TP Power - 3630-13D - 1600KV
TFL Motor 3650/1500KV

What should i do?
The price would be almost the same, not mutch different for price of a lipo or a new motor, the TP motor cost a bit more than a lipo. But tp and proboat Geico motor is a short type motor.. Easier to just change a battery of course but i want the same speed almost and im affraid it will be to hot even on 5s?

[oscarel]

Cheapest option would be a smaller prop. The manual says it comes with a 2.5 X 1.6 prop so something much smaller would help with temps.

As long as you grease after each run you should be fine. Also, a lot of the questions you had are answered in the manual. The esc switch and how lvc work are in there. I wouldn't run until lvc starts though, over time you will ruin your lipos. For most esc's on/off throttle will cause heat and running for 6 mins is a long time in the boat world.

I would say something in the 1500-1600kv range would be preferred for 6s. 1800-2200 is what's run with 4s.

[oscarel]

Also, there's a lot of good threads here but also have a look at this one.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2300607

[JimClark]

Setup is most likely to be quite different between 4s and 6s

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

[Heath M]

What size prop are you using?
6s on a 2000kv motor is a hot set up. Your turning 44400kv, ideally you want to be around 30000 to 35000 kv.
120amp esc is small for this set up to.

[waterproof]

What size prop are you using?
6s on a 2000kv motor is a hot set up. Your turning 44400kv, ideally you want to be around 30000 to 35000 kv.
120amp esc is small for this set up to.

Im using the Stock prop http://www.proboatmodels.com/Product...odID=PRB282006

It stand 2,5" 1,6 But its not 2,5" wide, i measure it to 41mm from edge to edge.
What does 2,5" means then? Looks like all of proboat use this size on the other same size boats.

Yes 44000rpm is insane, but i trusted proboat since this is Version 3 of the boat with new better motor and esc...
Why would they not just deliver it with 1500-1600kv and let many customer be happy and not have issues on the holidays..

What about 18.5v? It would be 37000rpm. Realy wonder if that would run a lot cooler on the motor connections.

[kfxguy]

In the op's defense, it's stated that this setup is ok on 6s. It was tested extensively by proboat to put that on it. Now take into consideration that out the box before he started jacking with it, he said it ran just fine. In my mind, the problem is not the boat, it's the user. He did something to cause this. Plain and simple. This boat runs just fine on 6s if you don't go messing with it. Now he's got to put it back the way it was stock and it will be fine. It also says you need 50c or higher batteries.

Waterproof.....if this was my boat this is what I'd do:

Put castle 6.5mm green connectors on it
Shorten all the wires as much as I can
Put 6.5mm castle bullets on the motor
Put the strut back where it was stock.

I know you say it should be good to go out the box....it was until you tampered with it. If you would have left it like it was, it would do as it was designed. I'm not sure your reasoning for moving the strut (go faster maybe) but there will usually be a trade off when you go messing with things. If you put it back to stock settings, make sure it's greased, make sure your using the recommended batteries and stock prop...it will be fine. If you want more speed, your gonna have to do some upgrades....starting with the connectors....it's that simple.

[Heath M]

Im using the Stock prop http://www.proboatmodels.com/Product...odID=PRB282006

It stand 2,5" 1,6 But its not 2,5" wide, i measure it to 41mm from edge to edge.
What does 2,5" means then? Looks like all of proboat use this size on the other same size boats.

Yes 44000rpm is insane, but i trusted proboat since this is Version 3 of the boat with new better motor and esc...
Why would they not just deliver it with 1500-1600kv and let many customer be happy and not have issues on the holidays..

What about 18.5v? It would be 37000rpm. Realy wonder if that would run a lot cooler on the motor connections.

I'm not sure what the 2.5" means if the prop is only 41mm. 2.5" = 62.5mm
I'd say 5s would be easier on the internals than 6s.

[waterproof]

In the op's defense, it's stated that this setup is ok on 6s. It was tested extensively by proboat to put that on it. Now take into consideration that out the box before he started jacking with it, he said it ran just fine. In my mind, the problem is not the boat, it's the user. He did something to cause this. Plain and simple. This boat runs just fine on 6s if you don't go messing with it. Now he's got to put it back the way it was stock and it will be fine. It also says you need 50c or higher batteries.

Waterproof.....if this was my boat this is what I'd do:

Put castle 6.5mm green connectors on it
Shorten all the wires as much as I can
Put 6.5mm castle bullets on the motor
Put the strut back where it was stock.

I know you say it should be good to go out the box....it was until you tampered with it. If you would have left it like it was, it would do as it was designed. I'm not sure your reasoning for moving the strut (go faster maybe) but there will usually be a trade off when you go messing with things. If you put it back to stock settings, make sure it's greased, make sure your using the recommended batteries and stock prop...it will be fine. If you want more speed, your gonna have to do some upgrades....starting with the connectors....it's that simple.

I have not messing with anything, raise the strut 2 mm from stock so the sponsons hit the table and the boat rest on the strut, the guys that run the proboats cats recommend this to get it stabile and run lighter.
Raise the prop should do so the boat run cooler because it runs lighter. Out of the box the strut is little to low so the boat runs little to wet.
I did it because i want cooler temperatures and it not reach 45mph like the strut was.

Like you said it works fine the first run, its maby because i was easy on the trottle, after i get tip about to run more with full trottle i tryed to run with more trottle and then everything was hot.
Timing was stock on 15, and now it is 7,5 and it help but not on the connectors.
I always regrease for every run.

Thank you for the advice, the wires from esc to motor is long and zipntied under the front of the hull.
It got 5,5 motor connectors from stock but its a good idea to shorten them and try 6.5mm.

[TheShaughnessy]

6s to do 45? Should be easy as pie. A lot of us get to the 45 mph mark on 4s. you may just need to limit run time

[Brushless55]

6s to do 45? Should be easy as pie. A lot of us get to the 45 mph mark on 4s. you may just need to limit run time

I'm in the 50-51mph range with my Lucas Oil on 4s

but his one sounds like its running wet
possibly the batteries are a little to far forward ???

[crispyspa]

I'm not at all impressed with the V3. I sent my V1 back due to the hull splitting apart between the forks at the seam. Proboat sent me a V3 to replace. The V1 was my first boat but I had it running 55+ on 6s turning an Octura x440 while being nice and stable. I tried tuning the V3 the same exact way and i have one heck of a time making 45 on 6s

[waterproof]

Here is a update.
Motor wires will be hot on 6s. It is not an issue since it works. I also lower the strut almost back in stock posission and it help a bit on the connectors. Now it is around 55-60c and it could also show higher temps up to 80 but most of the time they are 55-60c.

Now i have run it on 6s around 17 times and its work very good all the time.
Esc are around 45-50c and same with the motor. So the bj v3 is 6s ready :-) motor wires is not a issue.
They will not melt even they reach 75-80c and i have not reed about someone that have burned the esc on this boat.

Crispyspa, i reach 50mph on a good day with my stock blackjack.
I dont know the v1 but v2 is mutch more poor, not so mutch fiberglass and it must be blueprinted to not blow over at full trottle on 6s.

The version 3 is a way different boat, it runs very stabile.
I think the boat run more wet since you dont get the same speed.
What is your setup?

[crispyspa]

Everything is stock, 2000kv motor and the 120 amp ESC. Timing I assume is/was at 15. 6 cell. Stock prop with the bottom of the strut about an 1/8 above the pad. I tried lowering it, but to no avail. The thing with the version 3 strut is that you cannot put any angle on the prop because the slot doesn't give enough room. I hogged out the slot to give more adjustment and I reprogrammed the ESC timing to 7.5 to try out an x440 prop.

By the way, a Turnigy program card works on the v3 120a ESC.