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Thread: Burnt up 180A v3 hobbywing ESC?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by mihelone View Post
    I use a 2s 800 mah lipo, its just a receiver and a servo to power...its ok for a rc boat.
    I use 800mah 2S up to 1200mah 2S but, high C rating so they can be charged fairly fast and handle the demands of almost any servo.

    Zippy 1000mah 20C are nice or similar. Don't go super cheap on ebay with no name lipos. Steve sells some I think?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  2. #32
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    Ok cool. So Im pretty sure this thing is fried. I got a capacitor and soldered it in. ESC powers up but the led blinks red/beeps every 2 seconds, and the motor jerks slightly when it blinks. Bummer lol

  3. #33
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    Im looking on hobbyking and noticed the v3 180a has an extra cap bank on the wires with what looks like 5-6 caps
    and mine had 2 anyone know what this is? Thanks
    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...r_Cooling.html

  4. #34
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    Have you contacted Steven on OSE yet? He is really helpful with these matters.
    Government Moto:
    "Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."

  5. #35
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    I have not contacted him, but I already ripped the caps off of the main unit so unfortunately I think Im SOL at this point lol.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mxkid261 View Post
    Long story short my spartan ESC finally started giving me issues after a year, so a month ago I purchased a 180A v3 hobbywing from the OSE store. Then about 2 weeks ago I purchased a Rivercat hull from Travis and decided to use the ESC for that. Well I had to try it out Lol so Ive ran about 8 times with it in the spartan and possibly burnt it up today. Boat cut out after about 5 minutes, got it quick with my jetski and when I pulled the top off there was a very small amount of smoke. Capacitors look burnt or something. Motor timing was 3.75 degrees on stock castle motor. Am I out $120 or is there any warranty on these? Thanks

    Five minutes is an awful long time to run anything with a hotter set up. Have you ran this set up checking heat every minute so you know you can push this that far?
    I try and avoid paste eaters.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mxkid261 View Post
    Im looking on hobbyking and noticed the v3 180a has an extra cap bank on the wires with what looks like 5-6 caps
    and mine had 2 anyone know what this is? Thanks
    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...r_Cooling.html
    Wow you are right, good catch! It is strange HW would let Turnigy sell their esc with improvements for less money then they do. I think it is pretty clear to me at this point the hw version needs some help in the capacitor department.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mxkid261 View Post
    Ok cool. So Im pretty sure this thing is fried. I got a capacitor and soldered it in. ESC powers up but the led blinks red/beeps every 2 seconds, and the motor jerks slightly when it blinks. Bummer lol
    A slow blinking Red is the low voltage cut-off (but no beep) according to the manual. Did you test with charged packs? Also blinking Red with beep can mean it is in throttle calibration mode. There is still hope!

  9. #39
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    Yes I tested it with charged packs. I guess I try rebinding or something?? I ran it about 5 times before it did this and for around 8-10 minutes and temperatures were never really that hot.

  10. #40
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    I would like to think that this ESC should be capable of running longer than 5 minutes but maybe Im wrong? I beat the living crap out of my spartan for over a year always on 6s and never had a hiccup up until a month ago so thats why I bought the hobbywing 180, and this was with 10-12 minute runs sometimes 3 sets of packs in a row. I find it hard to believe I wouldnt be able to do the same with a 180a esc but again maybe Im completely wrong.
    Last edited by Mxkid261; 07-08-2015 at 01:20 PM.

  11. #41
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    Did you remove the older caps before you installed the new ones? Many times when caps blow, they effectively become shorts.
    Government Moto:
    "Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."

  12. #42
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    domwilson: Can caps ever blow or get screwed up in any way without changing form or getting leaky, etc? I ask because a leg on all 4 of my stock caps on my SF 200A 8s look like they have either burnt and shorted or bent to the point of ripping the legs in half... which I find hard to believe that I could mess them up that badly when repacking/retaping the ESC. Especially since it happened to all 4 of the caps. Though... I resoldered them back-- the ESC works fine and has an additional big cap bank. I noticed this sometime after a meltdown of 2 tp4050 motors... this ESC was the only one without an additional cap bank (the other ESC had the additional one) so I'm starting to think it might actually be a good idea to just replace them with new ones.

  13. #43
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    mxkid261: I have had a similar episode with a Seaking180 ... except the ESC literally blew up and the pressure ripped through the front of the carbon fiber hull blasting into my leg lol. But anyways... my point is that it seemed like it could have been caused by the motor shorting and overheating. These ESC don't seem as bulletproof as people make it seem to be. Perhaps check out your motor and your soldering on the plugs.

  14. #44
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    This is the link for the video with the osprey I am talking about with all the mods (replace caps, external bec).

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9Zam3OEoac

  15. #45
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    Domwilson yes I removed all 4 old caps before soldering in 1 new one to bench test. Dmitry that must have been quite the pop LOL. I have a feeling the pos castle motor maybe took it out. I hooked up the vxl-6s and everything powered up as normal.

  16. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmitry100 View Post
    domwilson: Can caps ever blow or get screwed up in any way without changing form or getting leaky, etc? I ask because a leg on all 4 of my stock caps on my SF 200A 8s look like they have either burnt and shorted or bent to the point of ripping the legs in half... which I find hard to believe that I could mess them up that badly when repacking/retaping the ESC. Especially since it happened to all 4 of the caps. Though... I resoldered them back-- the ESC works fine and has an additional big cap bank. I noticed this sometime after a meltdown of 2 tp4050 motors... this ESC was the only one without an additional cap bank (the other ESC had the additional one) so I'm starting to think it might actually be a good idea to just replace them with new ones.
    Yes. Electrolytic caps can dry out over a period of time or heavy duty cycles. In addition, After you replace the caps with similar or higher values, I would still investigate why they blew in the first place. Perhaps check the drive train for any binding. Your strut adjustments, weak batteries, too long battery wires, etc. These all can contribute to this failure.
    Government Moto:
    "Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."

  17. #47
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    domwilson: Well, the main reason was that my shocker flipped and the throttle failsafe was not setup correctly since the throttles are set to reverse on that radio... so both of the motors were at full throttle (50k rpm) for like 5 minutes by the time I can get to it... and they melted along with the whole drive lines and tubes. Thankfully the ESC's were fine except for the cap legs on one of them which may or may not be related to the incident. The ESC's were brand new and had no other use before that though.

    So better safe than sorry and just replace them then?

  18. #48
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    Yes. Even with a cap tester, I still would.
    Government Moto:
    "Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."

  19. #49
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    Hi domwilson, same sea king 180. I thought I had it under control but I noticed my caps get hot at times. Not sure if it driving style or what. Batteries, esc, and motor seem fairly cool but the caps are noticeably hotter. Will not having enough capacitor cause this and would it be beneficial to replace the 2 390uf caps with 1000s? How many would you use and not be overkill? (32" mono, 4092 1480kv 5s & 6s)

  20. #50
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    Yes you could try the larger caps. But I would look at why the caps are working so hard. Do you have a different, higher capacity, batteries you can try?
    Refresh my memory, What batteries are you using? What size connectors on the battery and motor ends? Can you take a pic of the insides of the boat?
    Government Moto:
    "Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."

  21. #51
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    Ok. I've got popped caps on my v3 as well. System was running fine with no real heat anywhere and a pretty conservative setup. Just so I'm clear. I can remove the 2 popped caps on the body of the esc and seal off the holes. Then remove the caps on the leads and install a new cap bank, and this *may* fix the esc? Then stop using the internal bec also.

    Are the 220 amp swordfish esc's any comparison to the 180v3?
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  22. #52
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    Iron-paww, I am not sure anyone has been successful yet removing the on board in the v3. I guess unless you are going to pursue warranty you don't have much to lose trying it. The op did remove his but it sounds like his esc is still doa.

    Domwilson, for batteries I use series 2s and 3s 7200mah 60c from SMC with ose 6mm bullets. I only use 3000mah to 3400mah after about 4 minutes. On paper I should be okay I think. I have just installed an external BEC with a 1000mah 2s. Curious to see if that helps any. I'll try to get a picture posted.

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