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Thread: What have you done to your " BLACKJACK 29" lately?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leadfingers View Post
    I drilled out the rudder inlets and the outlet on top to make them larger, along with a larger water lines and the splitter, not sure about pressure but it did increase the volume of water. I like having the water coming out on both sides of the boat, easer to see. I am going to try the stock connectors first and see how they do, upgrade later if need be.
    Ok, Sounds like a great upgrade!
    How is your strut adjusted?
    I maby think that the boat would use less amp if it in stock posission?
    Stock was the top of the strut plate goes in the same line as the top of the rudder mount..

    Have read about that now, and my first stock run on 6s gave me good temp, but i saw it looks like it run to wet or have the strut to long negative since anyone says theas 29 proboat cat like the strut to be about 1-2mm over the rear of the sponsons..

  2. #32
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    The caps are just too small on it mine got pretty hot a couple times before they went.

  3. #33
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    Put it this way I regret not just ponying up and getting the swordfish pro+ right away Lol

  4. #34
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    Today i tried 6s and im happy with the temp! But i think it should run a bit faster.
    I took the strut back to the stock posission, also lower it a bit vs have the strut flat on a table with the sponsons.
    Its about 1/8" or 3mm lower than when its flat with the rear sponsons and sure this help a lot to the motor connectors.
    This was the issue and the stock timing on 15, the boat runs cooler on 6s vs 5s with higher strut!
    Always run 7.5 timing.

    Temp on 6s after 3 min:
    Motor cable 55c
    Esc 55c
    Esc capitors 50c
    Lipo 28c
    Motor 40c
    Battery connectors 47c

    After this 3 minutes i run it again for 4 minutes:
    Motor connectors 55-60c
    Esc capitors 52
    Esc 50-55c
    Lipo 38c

    My thought is that the small upgrade as changing the directions of cooling lines, timing 7.5 and stock strut posission make it mutch safer to run on 6s, but i see that it could run faster, if i raise the strut from stock the heat will come.
    Any tip to make it run light and easy without raising the strut from stock?
    Lipo 5200 3s was almost at rear but i could put them littlebit longer back.
    Last edited by waterproof; 07-16-2015 at 01:06 PM.

  5. #35
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    Sounds good, waterproof.....we will get it figured out sooner or later. I tried to run mine yesterday with the strut set back to factory settings and stripped the collet, I had the updated flex shaft, but new Aeromarine collet I got was to long and I can't use it without moving the motor back or cutting off the stuffing tube and flex shaft and I'm not sure about doing either.....................any advice? I tried to order the short collet, but they are out of stock at OSE.
    Interesting thread below on the water pressure/flow thing. I learn something new everyday about this hobby, that's what makes it fun and interesting.......anyway I'm down and out until I can fix the flex connector.

    Mxkid, thanks for the info on the cap banks......looking forward to seeing your new build complete, good job!

  6. #36
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    You could try to cut the shaft or get someone to do it for you.
    Can you use the stock flex system?

    I have run it 4 more times and it still work, but the yellow motor connectors was little hot the last time.
    Have used it 8 times total on 6s now.

    Just wait for my stock balanced and sharpen prop arrive from rcchiefhobbies.
    Looking forward to see how it goes with your boat with 180A esc and stock motor.
    Sure it works now, but i want to adjust the strut in every posission and not get very hot connectors.

    I also change out the cooling lines the same time as i set the strut to stock posission, but the cooling line change dosnt help so mutch on the connectors?
    Could just raise the strut and try again but im affraid to burn something, have you check the temps after you set the strut back to stock posission vs raising it a bit?

    What is your experience with the battery posissions on stock strut posission?
    The 5200mh 3s all way back and it runs fast, but its bump a bit. Not very mutch and it have never blow over yet. Want littlebit less bumping before im happy and its not easy to eliminate it.
    Last edited by waterproof; 07-18-2015 at 12:08 PM.

  7. #37
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    When I did the waterline upgrade, I used the small ID tubing on the exit lines from the motor and ecs, so it would keep some pressure on them, but you are right not much help, heat wise, with the connectors. I guess the stock electronics are going to run HOT 185F +if you keep them.

    If I shorten the tube, I would have to shorten the flex shaft also. just not sure if this is a good move or not, in order to use the larger collet..............anyway the BJ is down for now, hope to get her up and going again next week.
    Just keep playing with the battery placement, you will find a happy spot......good luck with the new props, keep us posted.

  8. #38
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    Yes sure :-)

    Many buy a raw flex and cut it to the lenght they want, i dont know how you could do it.
    But if you get the parts soon its more easy to just wait :)

    What type of lipo do you use? I maby want to change mine out for some dinogy 65-120C, just to see if it get more power.

    The speed is ok, i dont have gps but its around 45-50mph i think, on the YouTube videos it not looks like mine is slower than 45-50, would be nice to have a gps.
    If the 180A esc keep it colder i will order it, are you going to upgrade the seaking v3? Or would it be fine stock from offshoreelectrics?

    What do you think about fan cooling on a rc boat?

    Could use a castle motor fan on the wires or esc, easy to plug it in to the rx, but i have never seen that before on a boat. This is just an idea and maby someone in here know more about that will help or not.
    Tfl hobby also have cooling plate for esc, could mount the wires around the cooling plate maby.
    Would have been nice with two water pickup but i dont want to drill a hole in the hull.
    Last edited by waterproof; 07-18-2015 at 05:12 PM.

  9. #39
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    For those of you with hot connectors -what connectors are you using? The stock connectors do get hot. It is just a function of physics. High current with resistance = high temp. You could try switching out to 6mm or larger bullets. They have less resistance so will run a little cooler. In turn it will help the whole system.

    Edit: Just realized this is v3. What are stock batt connectors on v3?
    Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing not to use it in a fruit salad.
    PB BlackJack 29 / AQ Motley Crew / Tenshock Mini ECO / Phil Thomas Stealth

  10. #40
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    Stock battery connectors is ec5.
    They work fine for me without getting to hot.

    I dont know if it worth the job to change out 6 connectors to 6 since it just littlebit bigger than stock.
    Would maby help a bit but the version 2 had almost the halv of size and they also get the same hot temprature.

    I have run it many times now on 6s after i set the strut to stock posission and that helps on the connectors.

    Now i have take a empty coolingline around them so they dont hit the roof inside the hull and so they not are too close so they get alone, think that also help so they dont lead the temp or collecting temp.
    Last edited by waterproof; 07-19-2015 at 03:09 PM.

  11. #41
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    I got help from Chief in here to sharpen and balance a new stock prop, thank you Chief :-) Very happy for your help.
    The prop arrived just after one week, i must say wow what a difference!!
    It almost run smooth even i had the batteries all way back, before i must have them almost at the front to not get it to bounce very fast, i think it give more torque, and maby 3-4 more mph.
    It is a must to give your stock prop a good work! It was very different to drive it vs a stock prop out of the box.
    Now it jumps more perfect and i like the way it handles.

    Im still run 6s for around 6 minutes with mixed trottle.
    The esc got a few less degrees after i got the new prop, but the water was also little colder.
    Motor connectors is around 55-60c but the black one reach 80c on todays run.
    Maby going to order a seaking 180A but om not sure.
    Have you got your new esc yet leadfingers?

    Could also get a 1500kv proboat motor.
    Anyone that know how the speed would be with v2 1500kv vs stock 2000kv motor?
    It do works today but i like to be more safe..
    Last edited by waterproof; 07-24-2015 at 03:26 AM.

  12. #42
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    Hey Guys - Sorry to jump in to this thread - But I wanted to see where the best place to sell my Blackjack 29 might be? I have a MG29 and a Shockwave, and I just don't need three boats. Any help or pointers would be awesome. I looked in the FE main list and didn't see and FS/WTB threads.

    Thanks!

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gopherboy6956 View Post
    Hey Guys - Sorry to jump in to this thread - But I wanted to see where the best place to sell my Blackjack 29 might be? I have a MG29 and a Shockwave, and I just don't need three boats. Any help or pointers would be awesome. I looked in the FE main list and didn't see and FS/WTB threads.

    Thanks!
    Sorry - I eventually figured it out! - https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ck-29-for-sale

  14. #44
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    IMG_0525.jpgIMG_0528.jpg

    i used to run my bj3 on 6s all the time, never had a problem, I just lower the timing on the motor and do not run the batteries to death, I believes that is the problem with all you folks, set a timer on your radio or your cell for around 8 minutes and problem gone.

  15. #45
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    Yes, timing on 7.5 helps on everything.
    What timing do you use?

    I got 77kph/47,8mph on a gps today, was a bit Wind and not flat water.
    Hope to reach 80kph next time.

    This speeds is with this setup:

    Strut in stock posission
    Timing 7.5
    Sharpen and balance stock prop from Chief in here (it is a must and give you a few mph and mutch better handling)
    5000mh 3s 35c lipo almost at rear in the battery tray, could only get a finger between the battery and rear of the tray.

    Water temp was only 14.5C and everything runs cold, low temp even on the motor connectors.

    Is it other here that have a gps and could tell the setup on the boat? :)

  16. #46
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    What is the logic behind thinking a 180 amp esc will make the connectors on the motor be cooler than a 120 amp esc?

  17. #47
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    Todays run i hit 79km/49mph on stock setup with s/b stock prop and the strut is still in stock posission.
    Have now run it about 15 times on 6s and i have good temps on esc and motor, the motor connections have sometimes 60c and other times 80c, it realy works just fine on 6s if you just have 7.5 timing and stock posission on the strut, if you raise it you will get hot electronics.

    Any other in here with stock blackjack/ miss geico with a gps that could tell the setup and speed? :-)

    Now i want more speed but i also understand this is around maximum speed in this size of hull.
    I maby want to try a x440 octura s/b how will this be vs the stock? Is the stock prop also 1.4 pitch?
    It seems like my 35c goes a bit faster the first minute on a full charged battery than rest of the runtime..
    Last edited by waterproof; 08-02-2015 at 01:51 AM.

  18. #48
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    in my BJ v2 I installed an os 150a esc and a 3674 2200kv motor and an x642 s&b prop on 4s 5000mah 50c hoping for around 50mph

  19. #49
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    bj29.jpg
    i run 440/3 with a leo 3674 1900kv with a turnigy 180a with timing set at 3.75, OSE strut and .187 OSE shaft, on 6s runs low 60's all day long with temps no more that 130 degrees. I'm very happy with it!!!

  20. #50
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZoCHt49sIg Leopard 4082 2000 kv, Seaking 180 esc timing at 3.75. X642 S&B Prop on 4 s

  21. #51
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    IMG_0221.jpg Allmost done. Turnigy180, Poseidon1515 2200kv, Revo 5000mah hv gopacks, ABC 1615-17 prop. Still need to blueprint the sponsons but want to run it first.

  22. #52
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    I bought my BJ29 back in November 2016 and have never had any issues with heat on 6S. The only problem was after a couple of months wanted more speed so I bought a Zelos 36 Twin that is an absolute blast. Since I have boat to play with I decided to upgrade the power a bit. I've only made the motor mount and the speed control/servo/radio mount so far out of 3mm and 2mm CF plate. I have a laundry list of other upgrades to go. I've only been into RC boats for a about 6 months and advice would be helpful. I do plan on cooling system mods and hull blueprinting/refinishing also.

    Here are a few pics

    IMG_1065.jpg
    IMG_1066.jpg
    IMG_1057.jpg

  23. #53
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    Great looking work, keep us posted .

  24. #54
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    Looks great. That Voracity motor is going to scream, but I wonder if you're going to need to run your batteries further back than the trays allow to compensate for the heavier motor.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  25. #55
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    I played with the CG when I was laying out the components, putting the esc behind the motor instead of in front kept the CG real close to stock with the batteries in the middle I hope to have enough adjustment when I get done. I also slotted the motor mount to allow some adjustment there also. Here are the planed upgrades:

    1. Finish coat the inside of the hull with a coat of West Systems 105 dyed black.
    2. Replace factory flotation in the front of the hull with a 2 part pour in expanding foam. (this along with the epoxy should make the hull stronger, i hope)
    3. 187 flex cable
    4. Rudder with dual water outlets and an overhaul of the cooling system.
    5. Blueprint and refinish hull.
    6. Props - I have a CNC 1.6 de-tongued in 42.44.46 and 48 mm's to start.
    7. Throw in a Futaba receiver.

    Again any suggestions are welcome

  26. #56
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    an epoxy coating by it self will add more weight than extra strength. If you do any damage to the front half of the hull it will be nearly impossible to make a repair with the 2 part foam in there.

  27. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheShaughnessy View Post
    an epoxy coating by it self will add more weight than extra strength. If you do any damage to the front half of the hull it will be nearly impossible to make a repair with the 2 part foam in there.
    Good Point - If this anything like my other R/C habits there will probably be damage.

  28. #58
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    Looking good. Interested to see it run, should rip with that combo. I like pool noodles instead of the foam. If they ever need to come out its easier than 2 part foam lol

  29. #59
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    IMG_1262.jpg
    Finally got a chance to do the CF inlay on the hull and mock up the internals. After hull blueprint and paint and I hope to get it on the water before it gets to cold, work seems to find a way of getting in the way of projects like this.

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