Shocker 2nd Rebuild - Video

[kevinpratt823]

Yeah I've never tried to vent mine either, I've got a couple of Hyperions that will air swell the wrappers sometimes. I just deal with it and they return to normal when they cool.

It is not AIR that causes the swelling, there is plenty of info out there that will scare you out of doing something arguably reckless like I did. Give this thread a read for example-http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1258876

From that thread-"Actually, the gas will be Hydrogen, and possibly some amounts of Hydrogen Flouride, which is very nasty stuff. Hydrogen gas is flammable. Hydrogen Flouride gas is not, but it reacts with moisture (say on your skin) to form Hydroflouric Acid, which is about as bad as it comes."

Also-"Did you know that when outgassing it can develop a static charge which will create a "torch" flame."

[dmitry100]

Is it ever a good idea to tightly pack the lipos when mounting them in the boat? I've been using a bit of foam to pack them in between the sponsons.
I figured the lipos need some space to expand and started using less foam for more wiggle room and some velcro.... so that they aren't packed in too tight.

Definitely will need to get myself some lipo sleds...

BTW... So this lag I'm noticing is it mostly the doing of the SF Esc's ?
It did seem like the farther the boat went out the more lag I started seeing. It becomes barely controllable.

A radio that comes with some temp and voltage telemetry would be super useful to get the most of the lipos too.
What radios are you guys using that work well in distances?

[kevinpratt823]

Many have great experience with spektrum, and I love it in all my cars, but I finally caved because it would constantly cut out in certain areas at both ponds I run in. Switched to Futaba and haven't lost range yet, amd I'm traveling pretty darn far out.

[dmitry100]

Are you using the Spektrum marine receivers too? How you tried their telemetry before?

[tlandauer]

It is not AIR that causes the swelling, there is plenty of info out there that will scare you out of doing something arguably reckless like I did. Give this thread a read for example-http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1258876

From that thread-"Actually, the gas will be Hydrogen, and possibly some amounts of Hydrogen Flouride, which is very nasty stuff. Hydrogen gas is flammable. Hydrogen Flouride gas is not, but it reacts with moisture (say on your skin) to form Hydroflouric Acid, which is about as bad as it comes."

Also-"Did you know that when outgassing it can develop a static charge which will create a "torch" flame."

Yup, def has to be careful and knowledgeable to handle this stuff. I will do more reading. Thanks for the link.

[kevinpratt823]

Are you using the Spektrum marine receivers too? How you tried their telemetry before?

I was using marine rx's, my (4) MR200's are in the swap shop now if interested. Plenty of people swear by them, but there's just something funky in a couple little "holes" at my pond, loses signal in the same spot, but can travel twice as far in other directions...
Never really used the telemetry, and honestly never really cared to. I time my runs, usually 3 minutes, and check it all when it comes back.

[flraptor07]

It is not AIR that causes the swelling, there is plenty of info out there that will scare you out of doing something arguably reckless like I did. Give this thread a read for example-http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1258876

From that thread-"Actually, the gas will be Hydrogen, and possibly some amounts of Hydrogen Flouride, which is very nasty stuff. Hydrogen gas is flammable. Hydrogen Flouride gas is not, but it reacts with moisture (say on your skin) to form Hydroflouric Acid, which is about as bad as it comes."

Also-"Did you know that when outgassing it can develop a static charge which will create a "torch" flame."

Thanx Kevin, good read! I too had the same issues with Spektrum and no problem at all with Futaba on the same lake.

[iridebikes247]

Pack temperature is fine. Also it looks pretty warm where you're running the boat, leave the boat outside for 20 minutes with the hatch off and take a temp gun to everything you'll see stuff gets hot just being outside.

Anyway the boat looks great, sucks you had to go through that lengthy process of fixing all of that bs. When it comes to lipos swelling is normal, you have a high amp setup. Most of my batteries swell a tiny bit after a run but go down within an hour or two. If a pack STAYS puffed after a few days then you may or may not have a problem. When performance starts to suffer by more than a few mph then its time to retire a pack EVEN if it looks fine.

Nailing it from a dead stop is really hard on everything but seeing as you didn't have much room a dragster launch would probably be the only way to get good speed at that place.

[dmitry100]

So one of my stinger's stabilizer mounts got bent, screw from a motor mount got loose which resulted in some breakage in the flex-- which isn't bad since it didn't unwind and it's near the collet so I soldered that portion of it. Hopefully the flex won't blow up...

Got my Futaba 4PLS today so hopefully I'll have some better speed readings from some good distance runs.

[dmitry100]

Any of you guys have any idea how to remove the bushings on the 3/16 OSE drives?

Thinking to throw some Boca bearings on there... or would any potential speed or temp gains be marginal? What do you guys think...

[dmitry100]

My flex shaft just snapped like 1 minute into my run... was hoping to test out my new radio and gps!

I'm assuming these flex shaft assemblies aren't repairable with any loctite right? :/

[srislash]

I haven't had to try yet but I think you could clean up the parts and do over. I would clean them really well though. Without grinding. I think if you put them in the oven at the release temp(stated on product) and worked quick you could get it out(Loctite).

[dmitry100]

Guys... What kind of props should I try next? Some CNC 3 blade's perhaps or some decent B/S Octura x447 or m447's ?

[srislash]

If you go to 447's then adjust your drive positive a touch. Another option would be some CNC 1.6 props

[dmitry100]

Should I go with octura m447's or x447's ?

Currently I'm using the CNC 448's ... drives are neutral and I am noticing more lift overall than the 445's.
Why would it be better to adjust the drives positive a bit rather than adjusting batteries further up to keep nose down?

Though it seems like as soon as I start adjusting drive positive... things get a bit warmer.

[srislash]

Can you find a 645 or 646 in CNC?

And when you say lift do you mean the nose? If so get weight forward or give a touch of negative to the drives.
A X6 series will also settle that nose down on top of being faster. I had great luck with the 648 CNC's.

[kfxguy]

There's some new abc props that just came out. I've been having good results with them. There's a new 1616-10-50 that comes in left and right. It's 40.6mm and 1.6 pitch. Those would be a good choice. I got an email from the owner of abc to give him a call Monday. I was asking about the 43.2mm versions if he was going to offer them in left and right rotation versions. So that might be an option. He does has some 45mm versions but I think they may be a little much for your setup.

[dmitry100]

sirislash: I'll see if maybe fightercat has some. I think i might of saw some on there.
Yea, by lift I mean the nose. Is what what you mean when you say lift or something else?
I'll see if I can find those 645's and try them out. Thanks.
BTW, have you had any luck with the 3 blades CNC's?

kfxguy: Where did you go to buy those abc props from?

Maybe I should try adding more voltage with the smaller props ... 7s

[kfxguy]

sirislash: I'll see if maybe fightercat has some. I think i might of saw some on there.
Yea, by lift I mean the nose. Is what what you mean when you say lift or something else?
I'll see if I can find those 645's and try them out. Thanks.
BTW, have you had any luck with the 3 blades CNC's?

kfxguy: Where did you go to buy those abc props from?

Maybe I should try adding more voltage with the smaller props ... 7s

If you can sharpen and balance your own, check the ose store. If not check with Dasboata

[srislash]

sirislash: I'll see if maybe fightercat has some. I think i might of saw some on there.
Yea, by lift I mean the nose. Is what what you mean when you say lift or something else?
I'll see if I can find those 645's and try them out. Thanks.
BTW, have you had any luck with the 3 blades CNC's?


Maybe I should try adding more voltage with the smaller props ... 7s

Yes I mean the nose.
I am sorry for the previous post as I meant negative on the stinger to hold the nose down.
But if you can accommodate the batteries an inch forward that may do it(it may take more). The ABC props may want to lift it even more. But I would have concerns about the ESC's at that point as well.
I have had good results in the past with the CNC 3blade(on my old Shocker actually).
I just reread your thread and realized you are essentially running the same RPM range as I am in the Fantasm with the same model motor. Sooo, I am wondering if you have everything good and secure in the event of a lift off? The batteries can sure get moved around.

[flraptor07]

There's some new abc props that just came out. I've been having good results with them. There's a new 1616-10-50 that comes in left and right. It's 40.6mm and 1.6 pitch. Those would be a good choice. I got an email from the owner of abc to give him a call Monday. I was asking about the 43.2mm versions if he was going to offer them in left and right rotation versions. So that might be an option. He does has some 45mm versions but I think they may be a little much for your setup.

+1 on the ABC Props I really like them too, I've found it takes a lot less work to get them S&B than the Octuras. They just seem to work better for my setups.

[kfxguy]

+1 on the ABC Props I really like them too, I've found it takes a lot less work to get them S&B than the Octuras. They just seem to work better for my setups.

The new ones yes. They few I've checked so far were balanced out the bag so if you take the same material off when sharpening you'll be close

[dmitry100]

But since ABC props are not exactly S/B then CNC's would still be a good option for testing then?

I mean sure I'd pay extra for some S/B ABC's for the best prop after I'm done testing... but I have a feeling that will be in a while lol.

srislash and kfxguy: What are you guys using for GPS? I can't seem to find a good one that isn't like $200+
I bought a TomTom GPS watch for like $100 and it's worse than my $50 one (so I'm returning it).

[kfxguy]

Garmin forerunner 101 or 201. You'll have to get one used off eBay more than likely. The have a super fast refresh rate. Small and accurate. Don't buy any props just yet. Let me get back to you tomorrow after I find out what is going to be available. Then I'll point you in the right direction.

[kfxguy]

Found them in the ose store.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...7-45%282%29CLR


If you want 40mm it will be the 1615-17-45cll and 1615-17-45clr

You want 43mm it will be 1715-17-45cll and clr

Pm Dasboata and see if he can s/b them for you. These props are worth the trouble and expense over cnc ones.

[srislash]

But since ABC props are not exactly S/B then CNC's would still be a good option for testing then?

I mean sure I'd pay extra for some S/B ABC's for the best prop after I'm done testing... but I have a feeling that will be in a while lol.

srislash and kfxguy: What are you guys using for GPS? I can't seem to find a good one that isn't like $200+
I bought a TomTom GPS watch for like $100 and it's worse than my $50 one (so I'm returning it).

I use an Eagle Tree setup so that would be your $200. Or just about but gives you many future options

[dmitry100]

kfxguy: Thanks for the info man. I'll definitely give those a shot. They are some mean looking props too.

So you're saying as far as the testing goes I shouldn't bother with CNC's and just go with the ABC's S/B ?
if you're saying they're already balanced... then it sounds like sharpening and any small amounts of balancing myself shouldn't be too hard with the help of a cheap Prop Balancing stand?
I've read up a tutorial on it and it seems rather straight forward-- aside from the fact that a face mask doesn't even help when sanding and profiling them so people use oil, etc.

[kfxguy]

kfxguy: Thanks for the info man. I'll definitely give those a shot. They are some mean looking props too.

So you're saying as far as the testing goes I shouldn't bother with CNC's and just go with the ABC's S/B ?
if you're saying they're already balanced... then it sounds like sharpening and any small amounts of balancing myself shouldn't be too hard with the help of a cheap Prop Balancing stand?
I've read up a tutorial on it and it seems rather straight forward-- aside from the fact that a face mask doesn't even help when sanding and profiling them so people use oil, etc.

I use small files dipped constantly in water or oil. I also use a respirator. Hopefully what I'm doing is good enough, if not then I'm in trouble. They are pretty close out the bag and yes you could do them yourself. I'd recommend 1715-17-45 left and right and they are in stock in the ose store. Those are 43mm.

[dmitry100]

Ok cool. I'll definitely get them then. Hopefully I don't screw them up.

[dmitry100]

Ok cool. I'll definitely get them then. Hopefully I don't screw them up.

Should I also get the 40mm version (1615-17-45cll and 1615-17-45clr) in addition ?

Darn it ... it seems OSE doesn't have the counterclockwise version of the 1715 prop.