FDM 32 V-Hull Build - Need Build Advice

[Tamelesstgr]

Looking to get some holes filled that I will not be using. Should get the flood tube set this week as well. Servos I got from the Swap and Shop are a little taller than the stocker I mocked everything up with. I'll have to make another set of servo uprights, but that's ok.

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[Tamelesstgr]

Got the holes filled and the flood tube epoxied in place, up next is setting the motor mount rails in place.

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[Tamelesstgr]

Finally took the plunge and epoxied the motor rails into the hull, feels really solid

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[Tamelesstgr]

Taking the paint off this hull is
Wet sanding is taking forever, my fingers might be nubs soon
I've tried oven cleaner, it helps only a little, paint is very thick

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[Tamelesstgr]

Slow Progress, decided to spend some time on the modified hatch covers. Glued these up and cut an opening the same size on the bottom side of the hatch. Epoxied them to the hatch, and I will probably coat the entire underside of the balsa to make sure it's water tight. I will also lay some light fiberglass cloth on the vertical part of the engine cover and overlap the ABS hatch just to make sure there is no chance for separation during a flip or flexing of the hatch. Pretty happy with how they are turning out.

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[Tamelesstgr]

Like the look over the previous engine covers

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[T.S.Davis]

If you check with Fine he may have the scale looking drivers for that kicking around.

[Tamelesstgr]

I've got them, debating whether or not I should try and find a little more scale looking drivers, probably won't have them in the cockpit for power runs.

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[Tamelesstgr]

Finally got a chance to jump back on the hatches since I will certainly need my cover if I intend to run soon. Worked out pretty well I think. Opened up the holes to match the wooden hatches and epoxied them to the ABS hatch. Then I added 2 layers of some thinner fiberglass that draped over the wood and ABS to kind of tape them in place with some lighter finishing epoxy. Now I have added 2 coats of the finish epoxy to the raw wood. This finish epoxy sands so much nicer than the thicker stuff I use for mounting motor mounts etc.

I wonder how many coats are needed before final sanding for paint? I want to do a leak test and then fill the underneath part of the wooden hatches with expanding foam or maybe stryafoam to be sure the hatch doesn't sink.

Thoughts?

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[Tamelesstgr]

Here is what I ended up with for my steering. Still trying to decide if I should add the left side steering rod, or just leave the right side alone? It's a 4-40 rod. I'll have to disconnect in order to be able to move the rudder out of the way to pull the flex after each run. Kind of a pain, but I may address the offset rudder later.

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[Tamelesstgr]

First side of parallel battery harness with spark arrestor. Soldering is not my favorite thing, need more practice, but joints were prepped with flux and are solid.

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[Tamelesstgr]

Any thoughts on what I can do to secure my 6s battery packs? I have seen folks epoxy the battery strap right to the hull. I don't think a traditional tray will fit in the space I have. I could make 2 fiberglass pieces the straps could loop around and epoxy those to the hull.

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[Tamelesstgr]

Some progress being made, epoxied in the steering linkage tubes and positioning of the dual cooling lines.

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[Tamelesstgr]

With my EagleTree eLogger I can log three separate temp probes. Unfortunately there are not any air holes in the endcaps of my Leopard 4082 that would allow access for a temperature probe. I pulled off the end bell and located a spot to drill an access hole I can get the thermistor close to the windings. I used a backer to protect the windings from the drill bit. Also made double shure no shavings are inside the motor.

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[Tamelesstgr]

Concept for Paint and Graphics

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[Tamelesstgr]

Seriously frustrated this week. The 200 amp logger isn't working, The spark arrestor I built does not arrest the spark on 6s. Thinking about selling all this MISC stuff and just getting a Zelos 36 or something.

[Tamelesstgr]

Made some progress with a solution for securing my battery straps, and fabricated some aluminum tabs to secure my hatch. Added 2-part foam to my hatch and sanded everything in prep for paint. Finally!!

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[Tamelesstgr]

Onto the main hull color, Gloss Orange

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[Tamelesstgr]

2nd Orange coat, going to let this cure about a week.

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[Tamelesstgr]

Painted the hull bottom and hatch, starting to apply decals, getting closer


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[Beaux]

Nice looking boat, won't be long now.

[Outboard]

What type of paint did you use?

[Tamelesstgr]

Rustoleum Painters Touch, but I won't be using that anymore, I'm going to try Lacquer.

[Tamelesstgr]

Decided 2 coats of clear is sufficient for now, want to get this thing wet after over a year. Starting to put all the pieces together.

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[Tamelesstgr]

Switched the rudder mount to the Starboard side of the bracket giving me just enough room to sneak the flex cable past the rudder. When I had it setup inline I would have to disconnect the rudder blade and pushrod each time I have to grease the flex. Bent and cut a pushrod, and installed all the hardware on the transom, getting closer!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3s5XLpDTyM

[Tamelesstgr]

99% buttoned up, need to cut a slot in the flex shaft to secure the drive dog, program esc, and leak test. Travelling this week for work, so a little bummed I have to wait some more to see if I am successful.

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[Tamelesstgr]

Some Before and After

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[Tamelesstgr]

Came up with an offset rudder solution this weekend, but now I can't get my Seaking 180 to respond. Have previously hooked up 3s and 6s batteries to test that the servo is working correctly and that the end points are where I want them. So I got all that settled and went to pulg my EagleTree unit in along with the 6S2P and nothing is happeneing, no beeping form the ESC, no motor movement. I had plugged a battery in earlier in the day and it was fine. The lights on the EagleTree also were on. I have since pulled all the EagleTree items out for the time being, still no response from the ESC. I reset all the stock parameters on the Traxxas TQi controller I am using, that didn't help. I am going to try the throttle range calibration tonight. I hope I don't have a dead 180. Caps all look good on the esc and on the cap bank.

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[Outboard]

Rustoleum Painters Touch, but I won't be using that anymore, I'm going to try Lacquer.

Why is that?

[Tamelesstgr]

In my experience the Enamel paints take too long to cure fully. You must recoat within 1 hour or wait till that coat is fully cured (sometimes even after 4-5 days I would get peeling / cracking when trying to recoat)

I have heard and read that Lacquer you do not have to wait for curing to take place, but I have not tried it for myself yet.