Because with many years of racing, thousands of laps, pushing the envelope, winning, setting records, and breaking some really expensive crap in the process........ we've learned a thing or two. Sure technology has advanced. You bet. Thank goodness. Wasn't that long ago we were maxed out at 70amps for a speedo. A thermal was a flame out. We've rode the train with the rest. However, physics hasn't changed. It's the great equalizer. The Q sport 2 lap record was set in the fall at less than 30000 rpm. Is that the old school way?
Let's do some quick make believe math.
I'm guessing the amps were over 180 but lets pretend that this setup was only 180 amps.
3.7(volts) x 6(cells) x 180 (amps) = 3996 watts. So that's 1.8 times the rating of the motor. That's of course assuming 100% efficiency.
What if it was only 150 amps. Still 3330 watts. 1.5 times the motors rating. Really? These are the setups you sport guys are recommending? This will burn up a less experienced guys stuff quick. Then they're out of the hobby. This I find frustrating.
42000 rpm are SAW numbers. SAW setups require more attention to detail than just slap it together and go. Something as simple as a grub screw sticking out too far can throw the drive off balance..........have some more amps with your amps. A drive dog that is square at the front.......more drag.......more amps. A water cooling pickup that doesn't appear as though it would pick up any water........no cooling.....so more heat...........which makes........wait for it........more amps. How about simply a thorough debur and polish of the flex cable? Should be done on a SAW boat. I buff mine on a polisher.
Put any of these together with a setup that's already likely past it's limits and you will have a failure. Little things are magnified at high RPM. You got it right or you got it on fire.
Who's taking the time to teach these little tid bits to a newer boater when you guys recommend these high RPM setups?
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