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Thread: 220 pro plus waterproofing

  1. #1
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    Default 220 pro plus waterproofing

    Would it be ok to silicone the ends of the heat shrink to aid waterproofing?

    Also I have noticed a lot of heat from the end of the esc, as when I remove the lid, the boat is full of steam?. batts and motor are fine. 4082 m445 2200 kv.

  2. #2
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    I was wondering myself


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  3. #3
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    silicone? makes everything slippery--tried it on the house sump pump to stop a leak and when you tighten the clamp it slips off----i would not try it.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveM View Post
    Would it be ok to silicone the ends of the heat shrink to aid waterproofing?

    Also I have noticed a lot of heat from the end of the esc, as when I remove the lid, the boat is full of steam?. batts and motor are fine. 4082 m445 2200 kv.
    I would worry about my job of sealing it 100%, the trapped moisture will eventually kill the ESC. That would be my main concern.
    Just my $.02
    Too many boats, not enough time...

  5. #5
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    Swordfish Pro Plus 220A is painted with a thick layer of water-resistant coating in factory, it's ok to protect ESC from spill water.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for all the input. I did notice the coating. But why all the steam? I've pressure checked the esc to make sure it's not leaking. And the end by the capacitors is quite hot.

  7. #7
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    Sometimes the "air" in your boat has high moisture content, it will steam up.

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  8. #8
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    Use a temp gun to check the temp on the caps. I will be uncomfortable if it's more than 160 f.

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  9. #9
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    You should see if you can shorten the wires between the battery(ies) and the ESC, also adding a cap bank will help lower the temp on the cap. They are now working over time. Check if the top has any bulges.
    How is your driving style? Constant on and off, part throttle will contribute to high temp. These techniques should all be avoided.
    How long do you run non-stop?
    Too many boats, not enough time...

  10. #10
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    No bulges on top of the esc. I will look into adding a cap bank as the caps did feel quite hot, but not as hot as 160f but will temp next time. I don't think I could run with shorter lipo leads as per set up.

    Due to winds conditions at present, I can only really run whole of throttle 10% of my run time at present, mid 60% and low-mid 30%. So if the slower speed is heating up the esc, why do two of my friends T3's still stay cool? (extra cap bank maybe?). I won't run again until I get one!

    I only run one set of lipos so run every 40 minutes for approx 5 minutes, and this is it's third run (and 5 mins is long enough with the new set up!!). Lipos are coming in warm after 5 mins, and at 3.9v per cell).

    Thanks Dave.



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  11. #11
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    If you have to have slower speed, the only sensible way is to use a smaller prop. Driving partial throttle is deadly for the ESC. May be your friends' T3 has a smaller prop or lower kv motor. This is a common misconception.

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlandauer View Post
    If u have to have slower speed, the only sensible way is to use a smaller prop..

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    Thanks. I would have not thought of that.

    One runs the same set up as me, and the other runs an etti 2600 on an x442 4s2p and gets away with it.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlandauer View Post
    If you have to have slower speed, the only sensible way is to use a smaller prop. Driving partial throttle is deadly for the ESC. May be your friends' T3 has a smaller prop or lower kv motor. This is a common misconception.
    How would driving partial throttle be deadly to the ESC? I'm not sure why driving it slower would hurt it more than full throttle and so on. Maybe I'm not understanding what is considered to be partial throttle...

  14. #14
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    Resistance. Heat. Fire!

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmitry100 View Post
    How would driving partial throttle be deadly to the ESC? I'm not sure why driving it slower would hurt it more than full throttle and so on. Maybe I'm not understanding what is considered to be partial throttle...
    The ESC is like a valve attached to a giant reservoir , any partial opening or constant opening-and-closing of the valve is hard on the mechanism because it has to bear a tremendous amount of pressure. If you open it fully water will just flow evenly at the rate afforded by the given size of the valve.
    This is the best non electrical engineering jargon that I am capable of giving, it may make a lot of people laugh but it helps me to understand.
    The caps are like shock absorber for the valve, they work really hard and the more absorbers you put in there the happier they are and could be more helpful for the valve.
    To answer you from another thread, a cap bank will not increase the amp rating for the given ESC. It will help the ESC to run cooler and prolong the life on the FETS, also distributing the work load on the caps that come from the factory.
    Too many boats, not enough time...

  16. #16
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    Yea but going slower = less amps and less voltage right? I normally like to make a few rounds at a slower speed (partial throttle?) so that it cools the boat down after a speed run... Should I not be doing this? Better to let it sit still to cool off for a few seconds, rather than going partial throttle in this case to cool it down?

    I figured partial throttle is like a normal thing lol.

  17. #17
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    Amp draw can go up or down when there are sudden changes in the water, speed change itself and the hull's attitude all affect the current draw. Data log will show the current draw goes higher when the boat is turning even though the driver maintained same throttle position. Partial throttle is giving command to the motor to work less and it will seek less current, but the FETS are working just as hard if not harder to govern that partial throttle command.
    Note that slower speed doesn't mean the ESC is giving less voltage to the motor. Neither the ESC nor the motor see lower voltage just because the RPM is lower.
    It is often a misconception: voltage does not kill the ESC, it is either the constant high amp draw or extreme spikes that produce heat that kills the ESC.
    I have seen SAW racers do a bit, they coast carefully after an one-way run and time it to turn around for the other direction. They are just trying to not add extra heat during this turn around rather than cooling off. ( It may, however) Mind you when I say they coast it is very slow speed and gentle on the throttle. And the distance is short, just a U turn so to speak, if you want to chill it in slow motion, consider this: the slower speed is not going to pick up enough water flow, so it is in a way self defeating.
    just my $.02....
    Too many boats, not enough time...

  18. #18
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    From Wiki:
    "Regardless of the type used, an ESC interprets control information not as mechanical motion as would be the case of a servo, but rather in a way that varies the switching rate of a network of field effect transistors, or FETs. The rapid switching of the transistors is what causes the motor itself to emit its characteristic high-pitched whine, especially noticeable at lower speeds. It also allows much smoother and more precise variation of motor speed in a far more efficient manner than the mechanical type with a resistive coil and moving arm once in common use.

    Most modern ESCs incorporate a battery eliminator circuit (or BEC) to regulate voltage for the receiver, removing the need for separate receiver batteries. BECs are usually either linear or switched mode voltage regulators.

    DC ESCs in the broader sense are PWM controllers for electric motors. The ESC generally accepts a nominal 50 Hz PWM servo input signal whose pulse width varies from 1 ms to 2 ms. When supplied with a 1 ms width pulse at 50 Hz, the ESC responds by turning off the DC motor attached to its output. A 1.5 ms pulse-width input signal drives the motor at approximately half-speed. When presented with 2.0 ms input signal, the motor runs at full speed.
    Brushless ESC
    ...................

    The correct phase varies with the motor rotation, which is to be taken into account by the ESC: Usually, back EMF from the motor is used to detect this rotation, but variations exist that use magnetic (Hall Effect) or optical detectors. Computer-programmable speed controls generally have user-specified options which allow setting low voltage cut-off limits, timing, acceleration, braking and direction of rotation. Reversing the motor's direction may also be accomplished by switching any two of the three leads from the ESC to the motor."


    In a nut shell, the ESC is like a switch, it controls the motor's RMP by switching it on and off .
    Too many boats, not enough time...

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