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Thread: Starting 1/8 scale T5 build, need critique of my proposed setup

  1. #181
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    you could go to coulon park tomorrow at noon and run with Classic Thunder
    "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
    Billy Graham

  2. #182
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    1. I set the strut to a slight negative angle, about even with the sponson bottoms.
    2. Sealed the top and bottom area all around the strut with silicone.
    3. I made sure to use a good amount of small zip ties around the areas where cables would be close to the can of the motor
    4. sub hatch sits nice and flush and is almost ready for tape (still have 1 more connection to make before hitting the water obv)
    5. And just a shot of how she looks now, in my friends pigsty of a garage xD

    1. 20151231_134518.jpg2. 20151231_134623.jpg3. 20151231_135609.jpg4. 20151231_140021.jpg5. 20151223_054817.jpg

    ugh, 4 out of the 5 pics are upside down, good lord thats getting annoying!!
    BIG BOY HYDROPLANES----My first RC boat and build project to boot: (and more content in my profile gallery!) ---- https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...proposed-setup

  3. #183
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    ok im not necessarily going to say the third time wasnt the charm, because I decided against putting the boat in the water at the literal last moment, however i suffered some more growing pangs......

    Okay, I could REALLY use some insight now.... The issue that sabotaged my first two attempts was the flex shaft collet. I was a little confused as to how I am supposed to use soldering to enable the Octura coupler I got here off OSE to somehow get enough bite on the flex shaft to not suddenly lose grip upon going full throttle....You can say I solved the issue, as in I can run the boat now without having to worry about that, however it is clearly far from ideal. I plan to buy a "big dog coupler" from Jeff Wohlt and I figured I might as well get another flex shaft too, so I figured what the heck with using some loctite and a tad bit of CA to ensure it doesnt come loose this time.

    But then that obviously leads me to my next issue, which is lubrication. I have the fitting there in the pictures, and I have a product I got here off OSE for lubing flex shafts, that comes in a small syring bottle. Its not very thick stuff, and by squeezing the very small tip into the fitting clamping the stuffing tube down is not very efficent to say the least.... I have been just dripping lube into there for a while now and waiting for it to eventually overflow but it just seems like im almost making no progress, however I dont see any leaks at all anywhere else along the stuffing tube, strut or prop shaft. I assume the flex shaft should be practically submerged in oil inside the stuffing tube, correct? I really didnt feel comfortable walking to the lake as I would pulse the throttle and id feel a ton of vibration and metal rubbing, so clearly I didnt have enough lube. So say the flex shaft should indeed be submerged in oil, how exactlly does this oil somehow disappear and need to be refilled? (prob a stupid question lol)

    gosh piano wire and teflon sound real nice right now..... *sigh*

    I guess its probably all for the better though, because im going to go to Coulon tomorrow!
    BIG BOY HYDROPLANES----My first RC boat and build project to boot: (and more content in my profile gallery!) ---- https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...proposed-setup

  4. #184
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    hey guys, I have finally taken the boat out for some driving! Actually, in all honestly the title isnt entirely accurate, as this was my third overall trip to my local lake. However I only drove the first time for a minute before bringing her in to check temperatures, and then I ended up calling it a day. The 2nd trip to the lake, I accidentally forgot to tape over the drainage holes in the back of the hull and thus it sort of hampered its performance as you could imagine..... boneheaded mistake.

    Today I finally was able to have a more relatively successful run. The boat still needs some fine tuning and obvious cosmetic work, but its been about 10 months since I started this build and I am very happy to culminate in what happened today :)
    I think I ran the batteries too low, as the boat seem to really slow down alot. That, and I am getting far too much water in the back section of the boat, I need to make a more proper hatch for that section that can be sealed off or something of the likes. Also, I think this propeller is far too small, ill probably go with an x455 or x457, try out both 2 and a 3 blade.'

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mtr...ature=youtu.be
    BIG BOY HYDROPLANES----My first RC boat and build project to boot: (and more content in my profile gallery!) ---- https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...proposed-setup

  5. #185
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    Hi Nic, still sounds like water coming in around the strut. Put water back in the area of the strut and see if water drips off the bottom of the strut. IMO having negative angle in the strut is wrong. I never built a scale hydro with negative angle, you want to lift the transom. If you haven't got the boat running good yet, I wouldn't go crazy with props. 452 or 455.
    Did you go out on new years day and talk with the CT guys? It's nice to hear you finally got the boat in the water.

  6. #186
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    Evening Nic....Good video on your run with the new boat. Looks like you could have almost used running lights on it...LOL
    I'm with Leonard's take on things....Do some testing first to see if you can locate where the water maybe coming in at. I was getting a small amount in the rear compartment also. Turned out to be a bad seal around the rear hatch. As I had indicated on my tests the boat was very difficult to get out of the water and running very wet. I lowered the strut to 1" 1/16 (started at 1") and tweaked about 1 to 2 degrees of positive angle. (Same Prop) WOW....what a difference. Popped the nose up out of the water and in turn lifted the rear to get it riding on the prop.
    Some of the best advice though was when I finally got it over to the club pond and had help from other 1/8 scale guys. We tweaked the depth a little more to about 1" 1/8 same angle. Then we started testing some other props. Make sure to always be making small adjustments.....believe me it only takes a little to make a big difference.

    I know there is a lot more to do. Just not sure its fast enough for completion yet. But we'll get it there. But I highly recommend getting with some of those fellas that have the experience. They can sure eliminate a lot of headaches and show you a lot of different tricks. One was because the boat is slowing down a lot into the turns we will be taking about 3/4" off the bottom of the rudder to shorten it up. Thinking its just to much drag and thus not only slowing the boat down but also slowing the turn rate when it slows down like that. The boat definitely turns better when at a higher speed. This was noted by one of the guys as it would go into the turn very well, but thru the center and out of the turn it would slow and not keep the same turn rate or float out in turn 2 and turn 4.

    On the oiler....I have the STS systems on mine and it works out great. I saw one of your pictures and the fitting was just the metal barbed fitting. Make sure you have a small say 1/2" piece of tubing secured to the fitting. I plug my refill bottle right to it and apply pressure to force the oil into the stuffing tube. Doesn't take much and definitely doesn't take long to refill.

    Hope this helps a bit....Hope to see more video's soon and with more light....lol

    PS. Finally got back to work on my GSX380 and parts are starting to flow in...lol Also started a P-Sport boat that is in the middle of framing...should have a thread up soon if you would like to follow..

    Later man....:)
    Last edited by Speed810; 01-13-2016 at 08:10 PM.

  7. #187
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    Ya, I forgot to mention a few critical things.... I indeed sealed the strut pretty darn good with silicone all around the top and bottom of the slot for it, as I did adjust it to be about neutral with the rear shoes before the video, and I re-siliconed it afterwards. However, I had lost my small roll of hatch tape that I got here on OSE, and I was using bland office tape as a replacement!! I used this for the back drainage holes, for the sub hatch seal, and to tape the rear tray cover down in place too.... So im sure this contributed to the excess water. I even got a little bit inside the hull with the electronics! Im hoping this is indeed from the tape and not a potential leak somewhere.....But I did go onto Allrc1.com and ordered some 3M clear waterproof tape, according to Bill, its some of the best stuff and most of the racers around here use it. Ill be waiting to get that before I hit the water again! I think when I got home and hooked the batteries up to my icharger, I think I had only used about 65% if I remember correctly. The extra weight from all the water buildup, along with the negative angle of the strut is probably what caused me to slow down so much toward the end??

    I never made it up to Renton on New years day so I have yet to garner any veteran perspective from anyone seeing the boat in person.... But ive spoken to a few guys on facebook, one of whom in particular works not too far from me so I should be seeing him this week, looking foward to that Still feel like more electric-oriented racers in 1/8 scale are a little harder to come by. But overall im looking foward to the whole tuning process and getting my kinks out, however im still pleased overall with where the boat is at :)

    Speaking of the oiler and flex shaft, do you guys use a specific oil/grease combination, or just typical stuff usually used in automotive applications? The stuff I bought initially was for RC applications and was really expensive.... dont want to go that route again. Why is it that nobody in this section of boats uses teflon liner? seems to work well with guys overseas in their large hydros and alot of SAW guys that ive seen too.... just curious.

    Im glad I mentioned the potential prop change and got your guys advice on that, as I wasn't very keen on buying another propeller at the moment, least of which a pre-balanced and sharpened one (I saw an Octura x455/3 runs about 70$!). Certainly something I need to learn to do myself.... and I already have an x452/2 to start with. So will a 3 blade reduce top speed a little in exchange for acceleration? It seems like I dont see too many people using 2 blade props on hydros, but maybe thats just me....

    Ill definately get another video uploaded ASAP, hopefully the weather permits and once it does, ill be sure to get out there much earlier while the sun is still shining :) Ive actually been considering purchasing a GoPro, which would mean I could setup some better videos without necessarily requiring somebody to come with me to do the recording. Ill probably take her to the water for a few more sessions and then ill remove all the gear from the boat and get back to work on the primer/paintjob. I may have to order a new set of wings as I havn't been very satisfied with my current setup, and ever since the debacle where I had to rip out the old brackets from the hull and re-epoxy them in, its just gotten alot worse....

    Thanks again for everyones help, couldn't have done it without you. OSE RULES!!!
    BIG BOY HYDROPLANES----My first RC boat and build project to boot: (and more content in my profile gallery!) ---- https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...proposed-setup

  8. #188
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    Just wanted to post a small update....

    Ive made some changes to the interior of the hull, and some of the components setup. It turns out that the real reason why the boat was slowing down so much just halfway through the run in the video, was because the entire motor mount assembly had broken loose! The square carbon floor that the motor mount was epoxied to, actually in its entirety had a pretty subpar bond to the floor to say the least. So I tore it all out and made myself a far stronger and also more efficient mounting configuration.

    Also, I have a video of what I consider to be my first REAL successful session:

    https://youtu.be/ZfvvggSNmf8

    Its nice, I didnt even have any water flowing through the motor mount and the motor still came back nice and cool, I feel comfortable moving up to a slightly bigger prop, just need to choose what one to get..... Im going to perhaps tune just a little bit more and do a few more runs before I remove all the components again and get back to finishing her up cosmetically so I can wrap this project up once and for all! I actually found some guys at a local auto body shop that are itching to paint one of these, so im excited for that!

    Thanks!20160121_233329.jpg20160121_233551.jpg20160121_233620.jpg20160129_181300.jpg20160130_081838.jpg
    BIG BOY HYDROPLANES----My first RC boat and build project to boot: (and more content in my profile gallery!) ---- https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...proposed-setup

  9. #189
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    Looks a lot better Nic....Like the new video.
    Also looks like a nice upgrade to the motor mount.

    Keep us updated on how the finishing goes.

    Mike

  10. #190
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    Looks like it's running real nice, was that WFO or just running it easy? I gotta get my 1/8 out and run it soon, you might have motivated me. lol Here's the last time I ran it, it split the hull at the seam. I fixed it a while back but haven't run it since. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQVFAPL1MFs

  11. #191
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    Weird, could have swore I replied earlier but apparently I never hit the button.

    Thanks for the reply, your appreciation means alot. Im pretty fond of your ML 40" hydro, I even bookmarked the thread you made after you had it finished because I loved the pictures so much. Used it as motivation toward my own build, so I guess I can be ecstatic if I was able to return the favor!

    It was close to WOT virtually, however its really starting to bug me how much power I am losing for some reason only about a minute and a half or so into the runs, each time now. Im sure its probably something simple that Im overlooking or unaware of as a new boater, but then again I havnt gotten any insight shed yet. Also another big issue, is a small bit of water entering near the front of the tub near the batteries, as the bottom of the batteries keep having small droplets of water underneath them after removal. Would this water potentially cool down the batteries a little bit and effect performance? Im going to go to town now epoxying that whole area in every seam and nook and cranny where water could even enter the slightest bit, and im also going to go around and do this for the inside and outside of the sub hatch lip before something really bad happens.

    After flipping the boat upside down today as well I was able to get an actually good look at where I have had the strut set, and I think I need to set it a little bit deeper for a little bit more lift. Especially considering that I dont even have the back tray and wings on yet. Also, I havnt installed a rubber seal where the rudder pushrod enters through the transom, so thats letting alot of water in all the time.

    CottageBoater was kind enough to sell me his HET Typhoon 1170kv motor with the HRC water jacket for a hell of a deal, so im excited to give that a try. That will enable me to hold off on getting a bigger prop and using 10s, I can just stick with what im already using. However as far as the 4035 goes, im certain I would want to spin at least a 455.

    Ive also decided what boat ill be painting as and found a local body shop owner who is going to be painting for me. Extremely excited :)
    BIG BOY HYDROPLANES----My first RC boat and build project to boot: (and more content in my profile gallery!) ---- https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...proposed-setup

  12. #192
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    Keep the prop shaft/strut level and raise it, that will loosen up the boat.

    What angle is your turn fin.

  13. #193
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    That all sounds great, I think your speed problem is that you just need to put a little bigger set up in it. The set up you have now is pretty mild, great for getting it dialed in but it could use more. The 1/8 I have, has a Leopard 5698 1100kv on 10s 2p with a SF 250 pro plus ESC and a V955 3 blade prop but the boat is pretty heavy too @19.8lbs. RTR. It's good for about 70mph. Have you weighed yours yet? I can't wait to see yours all painted and on the water. I bet it's gonna look killer!

  14. #194
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    Its not so much an actual speed itself that has me concerned, as obvious tuning can always improve performance, its moreso the odd decrease in top speed just a minute or so into the run. I havnt even ran the batteries well under 50% yet! At first I was thinking that I am simply driving too long even despite the really short runs, but thats clearly not the case when I get home and check them. I mean, you guys can see it to right? the first two laps, and especially the very first, seem much faster than the rest.

    The boat was just under 15lbs in the video RTR, so thats with alot of bodywork left to do and without the rear tray and wings. I imagine these Hyperion motors are probably not quite the same level of quality or performance compared to the actual Scorpion counterpart. It sure seems like im the only one using this motor, as everyone else still have their scorpions. If I had the chance, id go back and do a few installations different so that I could have a little more versatility with the components I can use. But oh well :) Im sure this Typhoon motor will be more than satisfactory! And thanks for the compliments Raptor, when I first bought the hull I knew such a tiny fraction about hydros overall that I didnt necessarily realize what I was getting. I dont have any regrets and ive even contemplated buying another T5 from Phil in the near future. However in the beginning and even until now, the aesthetic quality and scale appearence have been really important to me, most specifically convection and current design implementations. For example, I love Phils design of the entire underside of the hull, very similar to the full size boats, but the rest of the hull is no where near the scale accuracy quality in regards to updates with current boats that it can technically run as. Then again, ive got a hull from Steve at RCBC, and the scale detail is fantastic top to bottom, he really nailed it all over..... but the entire underside is extremely bizarre and totally against my philosophy of how it should be designed.... In the end I did alot of bodywork and mods to make this hull appear much more acceptable to my standards, and now with the full size boat im going with, its going to be fantastic! ive gotten alot of questions too as to what hull this is and where I got it. I hope that none of them go to Phil to purchase his T5 thinking its going to be just like mine! A few people thought it was a wood hull because they recognized Phils cowling and cockpit but then seeing the hull being so different assumed it was scratch built .

    ill be sure to keep this updated! Thanks so much for your interest and information Raptor!

    Quote Originally Posted by Doby View Post
    Keep the prop shaft/strut level and raise it, that will loosen up the boat.

    What angle is your turn fin.
    Nah, I ABSOLUTELY NEED to lower it, as the boat is just a total juggernaut uncontrollable beast and needs to be tamed.....

    haha just kidding. I totally thought it was the other way around, ill certainly raise the strut then. I actually need to go and cut off some of the back end of the strut as well so that the drive dog is just about even with the transom, as its sticking back too much at the moment.

    The turn fin is a VC curved fin from Dick Tyndall, pretty much a near mandatory choice for this hull as the only bracket you can use (unless you can manage making your own, i imagine very difficult) is from him. Not sure if you know, but his fin is just mounted perpendicular to the floor.

    20151231_134452 (1).jpg
    BIG BOY HYDROPLANES----My first RC boat and build project to boot: (and more content in my profile gallery!) ---- https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...proposed-setup

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