A couple more pictures Phil took :
20150323_182153.jpgmyhydro4.jpgmyhydro3.jpg
Senior Member
A couple more pictures Phil took :
20150323_182153.jpgmyhydro4.jpgmyhydro3.jpg
Senior Member
Hi Nick....
As you I'm new to the RC FE Boat scene....LOL But I have been learning a lot here on various forums as I build my Miss Elam.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...uild-Miss-Elam
The boat is actually one of ML Boatworks Extreme 171 kits. Its actually been a dream to build. Its being powered by the NEU 1527 1.5Y on 10S, ETTI 220 Pro ESC.
As others have said it seems to be the race package that has been proven and makes the boat quite competitive. Most of my hardware was from Speedmasters except the turn fin that was crafted by Dick over at Virginia Craftsman. Canopy, Turbine tray, dummy turbine and wing strut assembly is all from Steve at RC Boat Co.
Even though I have been an RC aircraft builder and flier for ages...this is a whole new ball game for me, but the folks here on OSE have been great to learn from.
I also understand your concern of missing some detail that can cause a bigger problem down the line with the build or when operating the boat. Mine exactly!!
But I have found that asking a lot of questions and reading a lot of different forums (even other sites) will give you the answers your looking for.
BTW....I just ordered a set of graphics from Mike at Thunder Boat Graphics. He is great to work with, but he is very busy with the business. He does a lot of other graphic jobs other than RC Boats. It is looking like it will be 3 to 4 weeks for my graphics, but call him...you should be able to get your order in. I believe he just hasn't had the time to even update his web site yet....LOL He also races and builds, so he is also a wealth of information.
Good luck on your build....I'll be following. Feel free to ask anything....even though I am a newbie also, I might have the answer but I won't give ya made up one....LOL I'd just refer you over to one of the other veterans if I'm not sure.
Mike
Senior Member
Hey thanks! I have been following your thread for some time now, I actually spoke with Mike over at ML for a little while about potentially buying that same extreme framing kit, but Im not the greatest wood craftsman and have never built anything of that calibur, so I was hesistant to follow through with it. In the end, I ended up going with a fiberglass hull.Originally Posted by Speed810
I heard that the Accu-tech 1/8 scale turn fin I bought doesn't actually work or mount with the T5 hull, so I need to purchase a difference bracket, I was going to go with the Virginia craftsman one.
But your hand makes me feel a whole lot better going forward, even if you are indeed rather new to this like I am, your several steps ahead of me with your build and Ill probably end up picking your brain quite a bit if you dont mind :) Ive already gone through your thread several times, haha.
I know I stated earlier that im going to go with the Miss bud, but again now im undecided. I need to find out to what extent I can actually have painted onto the hull, and what im willing to turn to vinyl and decals for the rest of the graphics. Theres a certain few boats that I really really like, however the complex paint schemes lead me to think I should go for something else. Also, this may sound petty, but I sort of want to avoid any teams that have already been done by Pro Boat. Lol, the custom aspect of this is important for me to convey.
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So I actually ended up purchasing a Leopard 5698, along with a Swordfish hv240amp ESC. There was a really good deal in the swap shop for the combo, already wired with a water jacket, so I couldn't pass it up. Hopefully I dont have any problems with the controller, its refurbished. The motor is brand new however. Its already been shipped out and I should receive it tomorrow. I also finally got confirmation from Kintec that my package from them has shipped.
I also just placed an order here on OSE for some of the last remaining hardware ill need to stay active in the build, and ill make another order or two for the subsequent required hardware and radio gear as the build progresses. My budgets a little tight at this point so I dont want to purchase anything non-essential. But heres everything ive got and also ordered so far:
Hardware components:
The hull (will be here on Tuesday)
Accu-tech rudder assembly
Accu-tech scale strut assembly with bushing
Accu-tech turn fin assembly
1/4" flex shaft with 3/16 step down (just ordered from OSE)
Octura Large Drive Dog for 3/16" Prop Shafts (just ordered from OSE)
Octura Coupler Flex Hex 8mm to .250 (just ordered from OSE)
Teflon Liner for .187 flex cable (just ordered from OSE)
5/16" and 11/32" Brass stuffing tube (on its way from Kintec Racing)
Leopard 5698 with 5650 water jacket (on its way, should be here tomorrow/Monday)
Swordfish hv240amp ESC ( on its way with motor)
Aluminum 56mm angled motor mount (just ordered from OSE)
Senior Member
You really can't run teflon liner for a .187 cable when your using 1/4" cable :) I don't know of too many guys that run liner as we use 5/16" tubing greased well for 1/4" cable. You want to use 11/32" brass tubing glued in the hull and then 5/16 tube for the shaft. Remember that the 5/16 tubing runs from the back of the strut to within 1/4-3/8" of the coupler on the motor. What KV is that Leopard btw? You can use the accutech skid fin mount if the sponson transom is 90 degrees to the ride surface, if the transom is angled, then you will have to use a Virginia Craftsman mount. I do hope your motor mount supports both ends of the motor. This would be the mount I would suggest as it also provides a place for the speed control. You don't have much room once you get all the gear laid out.
001.jpgparts 241.jpgose-80927_c_medium.jpg
Last edited by Agitator; 03-29-2015 at 06:55 PM.
Senior Member
darn I knew I should have just gotten that mount, but I was being cheap and didnt want to spend that much. The motor mount doesn't have any extra support, but I could probably craft something myself if needed. I wasnt aware that teflon tubing isnt mandatory, I thought it was something thats always used! ill probably just buy that motor mount instead, that way when I get the ESC and motor in the mail, all Ill have to do is just drop the whole assembly in. The 5698 is the 835kv model, what Lipos should I buy?
But ya, I purchased the 11/32 brass tubing specifically for the exterior reinforcement, I had noticed the discussion in Speeds Elam thread and figured thats a good idea. Do you guys just use a dremel/rotary power tool for cutting the shaft and strut slits? This has been probably my biggest concern, id really just hate to mess up this hull ive invested so much in. Ive made mistakes in measuring or angles and alignment before with custom computer chassis and cases that really resulted in a ton of frustration and extra work, I really want to avoid that kind of thing with this.
Senior Member
Hey guys! my hull is here! here is some pictures....
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Senior Member
few more
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Now that majority of all components and hardware are here, I am going to start all the prep and modifications to the hull. This is where I basically need the most help obviously, so ill ask as many questions as I can and post as many pictures as I can. Hopefully, I can get some helpful info and tips from some local builders, im going to attempt to contact a few, and if they aren't too busy and dont mind me picking their brain, ill be up and running in no time :)
So I plan to go to the local hobby store or hardware shop and pick up some lite plywood or Balsa, and some styrofoam so I can add some flotation and doublers to the cowling, and I have also been thinking of using some small circle magnets to attach it. Then I want to craft a bulkheads at about 8-12 inches from the transom of the boat, and another running across the center of the cockpit. Then ill epoxy a wood square stick on each side of engine well to form a lip, and make a flat cover to seal off the compartment from the rest of the boat, and ill be able to start accomodations for the motor, stuffing tubes and shaft assembly. Does this all sound okay?
Is there any specific order in which I should go about each assembly? like should I mount the motor and such before cutting and mounting the stuffing tubes/flex shafts?
Im also pretty concerned about the rear wing setup. I really want to have the angle and attitude of it to be absolutely perfect, and im a little confused in reading the instructions Phil sent me on how to craft the tabs. I was thinking of just buying some of the carbon fiber tabs that Steve has at rcboatcompany, but they are pretty pricey and seem to be a better option before the actual hull is built lol.
Last edited by nichismo; 04-02-2015 at 06:14 AM.
Senior Member
Nick you can use a drill to make slots but the dremal tools will cut a line. Be careful if using the dremel tool dont let the bit chatter or you will make a ragged hole.
The botttom of the wing verticals can be slotted with the drill or dremel just about 1/16 of glass to cut thru, use the drill to mill out the foam core for the tabs to fit into.
You can make the wing mount tabs with some 5 ply 1/8 plywood that is strong enough. The tabs fit thru the deck slots and sit on the bottom of the hull, they are at an angle. assemble the horizontal onto the verticals to check how they fit before glueing. Cut on the marked lines and epoxy the bottom and at the deck line.
Mount all the hardware first then worry about the motor position to get the balance close. You can position the batteries or add weight to the sponson tips in the flotation foam tubes if needed.
Mount the strut then the motor, cut the shaft slot and gule in the tube. Do it this way so you are aligning the shaft to the motor not the motor to the shaft, it will come out centered perfectly.
Senior Member
thanks Phil! I was actually going to text you today and give my thanks again for boat, it really is wonderful and im very excited to go to work on it.
So ill probably get the holes for the stuffing tube, rudder, and strut assembly cut today, and whatever else I have time for. For the stuffing tube slot, I was thinking of just using the 11/32" drill bit and drilling 2 holes and then just using either a dremel or razer saw to remove the material inbetween. I suppose ill have to take a conservative guess on the space inbetween and then adjust from there. I have almost all my hardware EXCEPT for the motor mount, should I wait to receive that before I cut the stuffing tube hole, so I can cut the appropriate size relative to the angle of the motor? or can I proceed with a general idea?
When drilling, do I need to clamp some sort of support underneath to keep the holes from burring? Also, im worried about keeping the hull stable when I go to work.
May I give you a call sometime this weekend?
Senior Member
I would wait for the motor mount before figuring where the slot would be cut. work on the strut rudder mounting first. there alot of things to do waiting on the mount.
Senior Member
Okay, will do. I just ordered this mount here off OSE, and the rest of the supplies and tools that I may need until I begin with the radio equipment.
ose-80974_medium.JPG
im going to get started on the holes for the rudder and strut assembly. Ive loosely assembled them to give me a good idea of placement. Im going to cover the back transom and floor with some masking tape, and then use a pencil to make a mark through the mounting holes of the brackets.
Senior Member
Looks like a good mount you can slot the floor and epoxy it into the foam core. I pretty sure the hull is marked for the centerline for the strut and the driveshaft.
Senior Member
I always use a smaller drill size than the hole I need, and then sand or file it larger until the part fits. Using too big of a bit has a tendency to cause a much larger hole/slot than you need, then you have more to fill/repair. One key element to building 1/8 scales.............patience. Always measure 3-4 times before you cut, and plan ahead. I also use brad-point drill bits as they don't generally cause chips around the hole edge. And drill slow, not wide open.
Senior Member
gotcha, I recently used a step drill bit for the first time, as I needed to make 6 holes 22mm each in diameter, in 2mm thick aluminum. I thought it was going to much easier than I eventually realized, but the real problem was my own lack of patience, and also preparation. Even though I only needed 6 holes, I ended up drilling about 14 of them as practice before nailing the important ones on the actual piece. I was so suprised how much just spraying some extra lubricant, and going as slow and precise as possible went toward how far the drill could take me before stalling.
The holes for the rudder and strut brackets are rather small though, do you still file or sand those ones? or do you just start with a small center punch perhaps or indent, and then maybe drill 1 or 2 holes before the final size? Im assuming you guys all use loctite on all the bolts and such?
oh, indeed it is marked! I didnt bother to flip the boat and look underneath :)
Im still going to wait until the motor mount gets here, but would this perhaps still be an accurate guideline even with an electric setup? Man im still suprised how big and heavy this motor is! Probably just because its my first FE build, but man I can definately see how these bad boys can muscle up some rooster tails.
Senior Member
Nic...
Use something sharp to mark the hole. I don't think a center punch will do it. You can even use he head of a 16D nail you might have sitting around. You'll be surprised that it will make a nice small start indent in the glass. Then drill that with say a 1/16 or 3/32 bit then drill it out to the size you need. If I'm between bits (say it was a metric bolt) I would rather drill to the small side and file the hole slightly until the bolt fits in smooth. I don't like there to be a lot of slop in the hole especially on a boat where your wanting everything sealed up. (Of course your going to use a marine sealant when permanently mounting the rudder and/or strut)
Mike
Senior Member
actually don't even own a center punch I usually just take one of the smaller drill bit and pound it 5 times or so with a hammer, but ive never worked with anything even remotely close to being as unorthodox as this. I need to find a way to secure it without damaging the hull, especially working on the transom.
I'm actually going to mount the motor and ESC assembly in virtually identical fashion to how you did yours, I really liked your approach as its both simple to craft and will be strong and easily positioned when securing. I'm just going to have to drill holes in the rails as it appears my mount doesn't have any.
I also forgot to ask earlier in how I can easily fashion the grease fitting/inlet. id rather purchase something like one of the brackets or oiler blocks here on OSE but they seem to be always sold out of the 5/16 sized ones. Id rather not solder a smaller piece of brass tubing straight onto the main tubing.
Senior Member
Hey Nic...
I'm going to go with Phil on the mounting of the motor. Actually you could go two ways that would be plenty strong. Looking at the tub area and as Phil had pointed out it appears the boat has a reinforced foam core where the motor mount is placed and where the stuffing tube will go down through the hull. As Phil suggested is to cut slots through the top glass coating into the foam core the length of the rails. I would drill a series of 3/16 holes in the rails so when you epoxy the rails into the slots you will have a stronger bond. You could also add some 3/16 or 1/4 sq birch stock on each side of the slots for more bonding area to the rails.
My particular installation was taking a piece of 1/8" ply cut to the width and length of the rails. I then cut small maple blocks and positioned/epoxied them at each hole/slot in the rail. There are 3 on each side. Now this is where you could decide to permanently mount the rails to the assembly with epoxy and glass cloth or if you want to be able to remove the mount down the line as I did...You can bolt the rails to the blocks. I opted to use brass inserts threaded for 6/32 cap screws. The blocks were center drilled first to 3/32 to center the holes and then drilled out to accept the inserts. The inserts were epoxied and twisted into each block. The blocks and ply platform were then covered in glass cloth and thinned epoxy. After the assembly had cured it was then centered on the boat centerline and epoxied in place.
The drive line stuffing tube was then installed. As others had suggested I used an 11/32 log tube which makes it easier to remove the 5/16 stuffing tube if it became damaged etc. I also used the OSE 11/32 shaft tube sealer/oiler. The 5/16 stuffing tube protrudes through the 11/32 about 1/4", but allows the sealer to seat right up against the 11/32 perfectly.
Hope this helps
Mike
Senior Member
Ok, I'm just a little worried about making a clean cut in the hull for the rails and not going too deep, my rotary tool is pretty cheap, I wish I had an actual dremel.
When you mention the wood stocks to add to the rails, do you mean they would sit down inside the slot ?
So you recommend against your method for my particular hull, is this because of the belly pan I have or the foam core inside? Or both
Senior Member
I'm thinking with a little work and patience's you could use a razor saw to cut through that top layer of glass. I don't think its probably that thick. I think it might be difficult to cut with any dremel just because of where you need to make the cuts. The birch sq. stock would be epoxied on the outside edge of each slot. So instead of gluing into say an 1/8" deep slot you add say 1/4" to that by using some 1/4" sq birch.
No...I'm not saying not to use my method...It is your choice and either will work...Just my method may be a little bit more work intensive. I just chose this method because I wanted to have the option to remove the whole mount in case I wanted to try a different motor....etc.
Hatch work Sketch:
Last edited by Speed810; 04-03-2015 at 10:12 PM.
Senior Member
Phil, when you mention in your instructions, "green" and "red" finishing pads, what are these? im confused as to whether these are sanding blocks or applicator /foam pads of some sort?
id like to start prep to the hull while im installing hardware and such so that its ready to paint as soon as I have all the components accommodated. I also need to do a little light sanding to the back transom, as I noticed when trying to test mount the rudder bracket that its not yet level enough.
Senior Member
I believe Phil is referring to scuffing finishing pads. 3M makes a lot of different abrasive pads for scuffing and buffing hard finishes....fiberglass, plastic, metals....I use them on my bowling balls to give them different finishes based on the lane conditions....LOL
If they are the same pads I'm thinking of they are like 6" X 6" colored pads about 3/16 to 1/4" thick...They almost look like a pot scouring pad. The different colors are designating different abrasive qualities. Lowes or Home Depot have them. Not sure about Walmart and places like that. These would work great on the fiberglass hull to prep it for prime and paint.
Make Total Destroy
Yup.
3m red pads are for prepping for primer.
The gray pads are for paint prep.
The gold are for scuffing things like raw plastic. They are the least abrasive
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There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...
Senior Member
Nic,
Here is a close up of the motor mount plate I made for my HRC mount.
Senior Member
Thanks so much speed, that's extremely helpful. USPS tracking although very unreliable states that the amount will be here on Monday. Once it Does I'm Going To Take A Day Off From Work and go to town on this boat! I've decided I'm just going to model it after the 2000 miss bus as its intended. Going to call Mr McKnight at TBG and hopefully get an order in. I also spoke with Steve at RCBC about a stabilizer kit and canard brackets.
which epoxy do you guys recommend I purchase? Just JB weld? Should I get a quicker settling or focus on strength, or perhaps I'll just get a few. I need to make a trip to home Depot or hobby lobby and purchase all the supplies I need.
Also, Speed, when you said you got a better bend in your brass shaft tubing by hand, did you heat it up at all? Or just use pure force?
Senior Member
The only epoxy I use is West systems with 205 hardener. I get mine from Aircraft Spruce-best price and fast shipping. Order the pump set for it as well. What have you planned out for a water-tight box to seal up the batteries, motor, radio, etc?
Senior Member
Screwing that motor mount to the wood blocks looks like the best way, you can take the whole mount out if needed to.
You can use some light grit sandpaper to prep the hull for primer, 120 be ok. You will hav to use some courser grit to finish some of the hull seams. Use some red filler that uses the hardner to fill any gaps you may find.
Senior Member
Me and speed have been discussing how I'll seal off the engine well, and Phil thoughtfully provided some helpful insight with the included instructions. I'm going to install a couple bulkheads in the tub, and then a lip along the top of the walls With some 3/16" square birch. I'll then run 1/16" ply on top of the birch with a little overhang, then attach more ply underneath so that I can make a flat cover sit flush on top of that to be easily taped up Before hittin the water.
I'm going to buy some heavy fiberglass or cf cloth to reinforce the bulkheads and engine mount. Im still having a little bit of trouble deciding where I'll place the lipos. Also that reminds me, how do you guys suggest I mount my steering servo? Should I purchase a water proof one and mount it closer to the transom underneath the turbine tray? Or inside the engine well? Sideways or flat?
And thanks phil, I just picked up some wet dry sandpaper last night, I still need some more though. I couldn't get any of the high grit I needed for polishing my hardware.
Do you think I could just use some glazing putty? Like bondo?
Senior Member
Lipos should go as far forward as possible, mount the servo in the compartment, use one of the mounts carried by OSE, I mount mine upright.
Resampled952012-12-239516-53-0795843.jpg
servo-mount-3_medium.JPG
Senior Member
okay. I was considering putting a lipo pack inside the actual hull through the tub wall holes, and theyd probably be parallel with the motor or just a tad farther up, but im just going to place them inside the engine well to be sure they will be in the safest, driest position. What is the perspective on mounting a servo straight up vs sideways? if any
Is it worth laying carbon fiber fabric or kevlar throughout the tub in a fiberglass hull like how the wooden builds are? or am I better off only adding what I need essentially and nothing else?
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