Starting 1/8 scale T5 build, need critique of my proposed setup

[nichismo]

Potential Hydroplane Setup for ⅛ scale, 8s to 10s. Need prop recommendations and any other tips and information would be greatly appreciated. :)

Hardware:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdr-012 -
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...-SPDS-011-250R

ESC:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=hef-HB80200L

Motor:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=leo-5698 (910kv)


Other Potential ESC choices:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...king-130-hv-v3
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=etti-e064
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=etti-e065

I really only chose from what is available and in stock here at OSE, as I would like to purchase the motor and ESC in particular at the same time from one source, as I am hoping that I could have the soldering and watercooling setup for me so I can just "plug n play" when I receive them.

I am new to electrics and this is basically my first build. I dont really need alot of speed, I dont plan to race anytime soon, I basically would like to shoot for 45mph minimum, 50-55 being ideal. I just want it to be reliable and not too expensive at this point, as acquiring a good scale hull set me back much more than I woud have liked, but im pretty excited for it nonetheless. I have a scale T5 from Phil Thomas coming in the next couple weeks.

[JMSCARD]

How big is this boat length and width wise? If you're looking for a budget setup, you can also look towards large outrunners.... heli types as they are high speed (rpm) motors and work well in 1/8 projects, obviously coming to mind is the 4035/800 scorpion or hyperion motors... they will def achieve what you're looking for and more speed wise, in fact on 8s you should be in the 50mph range.... and reliable as well with low amp draw.. heck you can use a HV80 turnigy esc and be good to go! you can youtube 4035/800 1/8 scale and see lots of hydros in the 1/8 size using this very setup... long known reliable, low cost, and sounds great ta boot!

[nichismo]

How big is this boat length and width wise? If you're looking for a budget setup, you can also look towards large outrunners.... heli types as they are high speed (rpm) motors and work well in 1/8 projects, obviously coming to mind is the 4035/800 scorpion or hyperion motors... they will def achieve what you're looking for and more speed wise, in fact on 8s you should be in the 50mph range.... and reliable as well with low amp draw.. heck you can use a HV80 turnigy esc and be good to go! you can youtube 4035/800 1/8 scale and see lots of hydros in the 1/8 size using this very setup... long known reliable, low cost, and sounds great ta boot!

Well ive already paid and ordered the hull, it should be here late next week hopefully. Its 44 inches long, im not so sure about the width however. At this point, the build is pretty much long past the overall "budget" stage, the main reason I use the term budget at this point is that ive already got the general consensus of typical hardware for this caliber boat, however this boat by no means is constructed with the intention to race competitively (at least not right away), so I figured with a slightly lower standard I could save a little money. I wasnt intending on getting this specific hull (although I been dreaming of it for some time), and on top of that I wasn't ever planning on buying this size of hull if I did indeed acquire one (Ive been wanting a 1/10). But I caved.... lol

So most people I have seen with 1/8 scale modern hydros are usually utilizing Neu motors 1512 and up, and 240a ESCs on 10s lipo, I really dont need that much speed, and I cant afford that anyway. The hull and scale aesthetics were more important than the speed, that being said I would still like to get to 50mph. The components I just listed, vs the setup I suggested in my OP is probably a 250$ difference or more.

Im mainly concerned with the prop and ESC. I have no idea where or what kind of prop to purchase, and I also am not very wise to speed controls. If I just want 8s and a Leopard 5692, is a Hv swordfish 200amp like the one in my OP sufficient? I might as well just buy a more expensive and powerful ESC anyways, so I dont need to do as much work to upgrade my motor down the line.

[JimClark]

This link from RCU's site should be of help http://www.rcunlimiteds.com/#!fe/c1pdy
they for the past couple of years have run 1/18th scale electrics and this is their setup

[Make-a-Wake]

I built a 50 incher several years ago and ran it on 9s2p with a Castle 2028, hit 60 mph.

The 5698 on 8s2p will power it fine and should get you around 50 if that is enough for you.

If you haven't already ordered the motor you may want to consider the 56110 for a few bucks more

[nichismo]

I was actually considering the 5692 so that I could get a better quality ESC, ive been told by a few people that If possible to opt for an Etti or Seaking ESC rather than the swordfish ones.

I guess the prop I end up using will be a pretty influencing factor? I seriously dont know anything about props, should I buy a balancer and balance my own? so that I can perhaps fine tune my setups? or should I just buy a pre sharpened and balanced one from here on OSE?

[JimClark]

Nicholas where do you plan on running your boat?

[leonard feeback]

Nicholas, pay attention to Jim's post and go the RCU web site. They give you a very good starting point for what you need without wasting money in the wrong parts. Their site also has people you can probably get in contact that live close to you

[Make-a-Wake]

I was actually considering the 5692 so that I could get a better quality ESC, ive been told by a few people that If possible to opt for an Etti or Seaking ESC rather than the swordfish ones.

There isn't a Seaking that will power that motor that I am aware of, the swordfish is a very good ESC, that's what I used in my Hydro, a 240 12s.

Ryan made this thread several years ago, I referred to it a lot when I was new to boats, very informative

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/spee...ere-first.html

[nichismo]

Nicholas where do you plan on running your boat?

Well I live in NE tacoma, which is basically Federal Way. Locally, ill probably be stopping by Steel lake and 5 mile lake which is just a very short drive from my home, but I plan to make the drive up to Renton and Seattle as much as possible, I just love Lake Washington and Coulon beach :) So many memories growing up when my dad moored his boat near Rainier beach. Every time we drove over to Coulon to get Ivars and Kidd Valley, I always loved looking at the Hawai Kai III and Miss Bardahl boats hanging inside. Then Id always hope to see some people potentially driving their boats inside the square pier.... Finally I can be in the other shoes!! Im extremely excited for Seafair this year too!

I look forward to meeting as many other hydro drivers as I can

Nicholas, pay attention to Jim's post and go the RCU web site. They give you a very good starting point for what you need without wasting money in the wrong parts. Their site also has people you can probably get in contact that live close to you

Will do, Jim seems extremely experienced and educated with hydroplanes, Ive spent alot of time checking out his photos and gallery on Smugmug, all beautiful Jim

So perhaps Ill aim for a 240amp minimum for the ESC? Perhaps Ill spend a little more then so I have more headroom for upgrading the motor later.

I have no idea how to solder and do the wiring either.... So I really wanted to purchase everything from here on OSE so I can just basically strap everything in and get going!

Im going to actually change the hardware I had listed in the OP, and im going to opt for the 1/8 scale hydroplane hardware package from Accu-tech, minus the zenoah motor mount it comes with. I really like the scale strut they offer.

Im so excited to get this hull guys!! I really want to get my parts before the hull gets here so I can get to it. Im still trying to decide what paint and team Im going to choose. I was thinking the U-21 Miss Seattle/Beacon plumbing driven by Villwock. The yellow and red is pretty simple to replicate and wont require to many decals either. But im still tempted to just go for another Miss bud.... haha

[leonard feeback]

The T-5 hull you have coming won't do the U-21 Beacon Plumbing without changing the deck over the sponsons.

[JimClark]

Leonard it might work for one of the older Beacon Plumbing but not the current hull

[nichismo]

ill probably just make a 2001 Miss Bud then.....

Do you guys know of anything articles that have a full walkthrough of a boat assembly? Like I am still unfamiliar wiith alot of the smaller processes and details, like drilling a hole for the stuffing tube and flex shaft (I have a thread bookmarked for this one however so im not too concerned with that), and cutting a slot out inside the boat, near the transom for the strut, and proper placement of components.

I noticed OSE has rail motor mounts for NEU 1521+ size and up motors that are basically for mounting on nitro engine rails, My hull will have I believe speedmaster .67 mounts built in. Heres a picture of Phils most recent T5:

1926255_843107775728513_5168377093765732495_o.jpg

Id like to maybe use something like these but I cant find one for the 5692.

Also, which ESC would be a better choice in the long run?

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...-HBF1300L-lite - Swordfish Pro+ 300 amp Lite version
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=etti-e065 - Etti HV 220A Opto PRO II Navy Competition

[Agitator]

If this is going to be Electric, I don't think you need nitro motor mounts.

[nichismo]

If this is going to be Electric, I don't think you need nitro motor mounts.

of course not, I wasn't intending on only using nitro motor mounts. its more so that Phil has his T5 hulls usually equipped with speed master mounts for .67 glow engines, just like the picture I posted above. I just would like to possibly integrate those to mount my electric motor somehow if I could, just to perhaps keep the internals a little but cleaner.

Phil does known that I'm going to be building an FE however, so maybe he'll actually skip that part.

[nichismo]

The miss beacon plumbing from this video isnt the practical same hull?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AArltTNRaA

[nichismo]

just put the order in with Accu-tech for the 1/8 scale hydroplane hardware package, minus the Zenoah/nitro engine mount. I purchased the 1/4 bushing for the strut too. I was going to get the flex shaft from there as well, but it was cheaper here on OSE and they were out of stock with the stepped down ones.

So I ordered:
http://www.accu-techrchardware.com/SRASRC-100.html - Tapered single pickup short rudder assembly
http://www.accu-techrchardware.com/ASSA-100.html - "Authentic" scale 1/8 hydro strut assembly
http://www.accu-techrchardware.com/HTFARC-100.html - hydro turn fin assembly
http://www.accu-techrchardware.com/SB-100.html - 1/4" shaft bushing

next make an order here on OSE for the Leopard 5962, ETTI 220amp opto pro ESC, and the carbom fiber 56mm motor mount with the cover plate that can hold the ESC on top. once I have all those things installed and the boat painted then ill be pretty darn close to her maiden voyage!

I spoke with Phil the other day too, and he informed me that he was going to leave out the normal speedmaster engine mounts he normally has in the hull, so the engine well will be ready for any electric motor mount. As soon as the hull arrives, ill be sure to start taking plenty of pictures and upload them here.

[Agitator]

The hull you are getting is not the same as the 2014 Beacon-it doesn't have the step between the deck and sponson-see photo. Of course, it's your boat, so you can do whatever you choose. Once you get the hull, then you will have to build a watertight compartment for all the electronics. On FE hydros, the 'normal' set-up is batteries as far forward as possible, motor and scu, receiver and steering servo. You will probably need a radio battery as well.

beacon2_7188588_ver1.0_640_480-1.jpg

[nichismo]

aww thats a bummer, so then it would not be race legal? I really love the thought of just doing the miss bud, and it would also be an easy replication, but its just so common and unoriginal. What other boats does the T-5 make?

So do some people have areas cut out from inside the sponsons? or at least partially? where should I add floatation? have people ever made shelves of some sort inside the cowl? so maybe something perhaps could sit up there above other components and save space?

[Agitator]

Ideally, you don't want any of the electronics where they will get wet. You also want the weight as low in the hull as possible, so no, nothing hanging in the cowl.. You can add flotation in the sponsons, using pool noodles or two part expanding foam. The hull you are getting will build any of these boats-this is RC Boat Companies list. You can get the graphics from http://www.thunderboatgraphics.com/ and the paint scheme plans from http://www.newtonmarine.com/index.php
I realize you said you don't want to race, but you are going to have ALOT of $$$$ tied up in electronics/batteries/motor, so you really need to think of all the electronics have to be in a water tight/waterproof section. Look at some of the other 1/8 scale builds here and you will get a good idea of how much protection we put in our electronics bay. Ask Phil how he would suggest building a box for a FE boat, he is a wealth of information


2000-04 U-1 Miss Budweiser (T-6)
2006-09 U-5 Formulaboats.com
1998-04 U-1 Miss Budweiser (T-5)
2006 U-7 Formulaboats.com II
2001-09 U-16 Ellstrom E-Lam Plus
2010-13 U-96 Spirit of Qatar
2007-13 U-6/U-1 OH Boy! Oberto
2002-10 U-3 Coopers Motorsports
2003-05 U-8 LLumar Window Films
2006 U-37 Miss Beacon Plumbing
2007-08 U-37 Beacon Plumbing
2009 U-37 Bello's Pizza
2009 U-37 Glacier Energy Presents Miss DYC
2009 U-37 Hoss Mortgage Investors
2009 U-37 Renton Coil Springs
2010 U-37 Miss Peters & May
2011-13 U-11 Miss Peters & May
2010 U-21 Albert Lee
2011 U-21 Lakeridge Paving
2011 U-21 Tapout
2012-13 U-88 Degree Men
2013 U-5 Graham Trucking
2012 U-17 Red Dot

[nichismo]

oh I do want to race, im just not in a hurry. I really would like to get a NEU 1527 and 10 or 12s Lipo but I simply cant spend that much money, im already being set back farther than id like. I didnt realise how expensive lipo batteries are, aside from the hull they are going to be practically the most expensive component of the boat, and thats only at 8s! Im still a tad overwhelmed by the amount of information out there, but im really just mainly concerned with the smaller in and outs of building a boat from scratch. Im worried about overlooking something minor that ends up having severe consequences, like perhaps not getting the dimensions right on holes or cuts in the hull for hardware, or picking the wrong prop and damaging my ESC, or not sealing the stuffing tube well enough and water getting into the hull after a run or two.... I dont know. Another hobby of mine is building performance computers, they always are overclocked and have full plumbing watercooling systems. Ive made several systems now, but when I made my first few custom rigs, there were numerous small mistakes I would make, or even just time wasted due to techniques and methods that I used due to my lack of experience. Now that I ended up biting the bullet and buying such a nice hull, I feel as though with this boat im trying to build the equivalent of my latest boutique computer build, and attempting to skip the whole learning process. I just have doubt about whether it can really be done..... I can learn and research with the internet and OSE has been awesome, but like I said, i feel a tad bit overwhelmed.

I had looked on Thunderboat graphics, but on their front page it says they arent taking any orders due to trying to catch up from back logs of orders last year. Do you know if they are taking orders again? I have talked with phil a decent amount, but I feel a tad bit awkward trying to pick his brain at times, last few texts I sent asking a few questions, he never responded. Jim clark has been an awesome help though, hes giving me the privilege of a visit and taking a look at my boat soon after I get the hull and hardware. Thankfully, im in a pretty good spot on earth for RC hydroplanes :)

Thanks for the list BTW! I had no idea I had this many to choose from! SWEET

I may go with the Formulaboats.com, this one has been a favorite of mine for a while

https://www.flickr.com/photos/928240...57634294141409

the neon green Peters and May has also been perhaps my favorite looking hydro but Im afraid a paintjob that flashy may just bee too costly or come out subpar.

this miss beacon plumbing looks just like that one, it must be the 2006 you listed:
183342_G.jpg

[Agitator]

The Beacon photo I posted was taken in 2014-same paint scheme-completely different hull. No ThunderboatGraphics is not taking orders at this time, but will be back up fairly soon. Remember, that some of what we use comes from small 1 man operations, but they also have a real job too. Some items can take time to get, so patience is needed.

[nichismo]

Well ive been employed with my familys small business franchise for almost 10 years and I also build and design custom performance computers that I sell afterwards, simply because I have a passion for that and I have to satisfy my desire to tune and build them, otherwise my own computer would always be in pieces. So im well aware of their scale of business operations and why they provide their services in the first place, I wasn't complaining or being impatient, I just felt that your suggestion implied that you weren't aware that they aren't taking orders at the moment, which is fine. They seem to be the best and I have no problem waiting. But thanks for the recommendation and list of boats!

Phil told me on Thursday that he had finished all the pieces and extras, and just had to finish the main hull body before it will be shipped out. The process should have been about 2-3 days and he said he would start on friday or Saturday, so hopefully it will ship out today! I also had him make a salt water scoop for me.

I think im going to change my motor and go with a Neu 1527 instead, a friendly member here has a very lightly used one that he can sell to me for a good price, I just need to get an ESC and my radio gear and such and then ill be almost ready to go. My hardware order from Accu-tech is set to arrive today, and then I just placed an order with Kintec racing over the weekend for a 1/4" flex shaft with a step down to 3/16" for the prop shaft.

[Agitator]

I think you will find a large portion of those of us that run 1/8 scales use a Neu 1527 1.5Y on 10s. Seems to be about the best 'bang for the buck'. I also have a couple that run Scorpion 4035/800 on 8 or 10s. I just ordered ML Boatworks 1/8 Winston Lobster boat (extreme frame) that will run Neu 1530 /1100. Totally aware TBG is not taking orders as I still have decals I've been waiting for from him. I might suggest you try one of Jeff Wohlt's 'Big Dog' couplers. http://rcraceboat.com/
BTW, No one can have too many "Bud" boats, I have the T-4 twin wing, the '72 round nose, and will start later this month on a new T-6 from Ml Boatworks. Once you start, there is no going back, so welcome to the dark side .

[Luck as a Constant]

BTW, No one can have too many "Bud" boats .

This!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nichismo]

I think you will find a large portion of those of us that run 1/8 scales use a Neu 1527 1.5Y on 10s. Seems to be about the best 'bang for the buck'. I also have a couple that run Scorpion 4035/800 on 8 or 10s. I just ordered ML Boatworks 1/8 Winston Lobster boat (extreme frame) that will run Neu 1530 /1100. Totally aware TBG is not taking orders as I still have decals I've been waiting for from him. I might suggest you try one of Jeff Wohlt's 'Big Dog' couplers. http://rcraceboat.com/
BTW, No one can have too many "Bud" boats, I have the T-4 twin wing, the '72 round nose, and will start later this month on a new T-6 from Ml Boatworks. Once you start, there is no going back, so welcome to the dark side .

lol, you just made my decision! Miss bud it is :) and honestly, ive just sort of knew from the start I would go with it, I just already had an attachment due to seeing inflatable miss bud hydros all over the place during Seafair and around gas stations and such growing up as a little kid, its only natural that I would want one as an RC.

So I finally got some pictures for you guys too! Phil completed my hull today, along with the Saltwater scoop, and hes shipping it out tomorrow. myhardware.jpgmyhydro.jpgmyhydro2.jpg

[Agitator]

Accu-tech make the best hardware I have seen, it's all I use anymore. Have fun polishing it all out. Be VERY careful with the strut as the 5/16 brass stuffing tube must be a very tight fit. You will find the hole in the strut too tight to install the tube, so you have to slowly and carefully open it up. I mount the strut in a bench vise, and use self adhesive 400 grit sand paper on a 1/4" dowel in a drill so you get the full length of the strut at the same time. Take your time and fit the brass tube often so you don't go too far. You did get the bronze bushing for the shaft didn't you? Going to be interesting to watch this build as I will be starting mine about the same time. Had to order the snorkel and tail feathers from RC Boat Company, already have the cowl and a fresh cut ML Boatworks Extreme frame kit. I already have my graphics though, bought them here on the forum. Take LOTS of pictures and ask questions. I have some good pictures of the T-6 with the saltwater intake I took in Tri Cities.
I can also help with some 'jewelry' for the back when you get to that point..

parts 439.jpg

[nichismo]

Accu-tech make the best hardware I have seen, it's all I use anymore. Have fun polishing it all out. Be VERY careful with the strut as the 5/16 brass stuffing tube must be a very tight fit. You will find the hole in the strut too tight to install the tube, so you have to slowly and carefully open it up. I mount the strut in a bench vise, and use self adhesive 400 grit sand paper on a 1/4" dowel in a drill so you get the full length of the strut at the same time. Take your time and fit the brass tube often so you don't go too far. You did get the bronze bushing for the shaft didn't you? Going to be interesting to watch this build as I will be starting mine about the same time. Had to order the snorkel and tail feathers from RC Boat Company, already have the cowl and a fresh cut ML Boatworks Extreme frame kit. I already have my graphics though, bought them here on the forum. Take LOTS of pictures and ask questions. I have some good pictures of the T-6 with the saltwater intake I took in Tri Cities.
I can also help with some 'jewelry' for the back when you get to that point..

parts 439.jpg

Woah! that is badass.....

I was going to purchase the dummy turbine and stablizer kit from Rcboatcompany, but they are pretty expensive so well see. This is actually my first scratch build aside from helping a friend of mine with his VS1 and its my first FE build in general. Im a little worried but everyone here has been really helpful, and I live in a fantastic community for hydroplane building.

and yes, I did purchase the bushing as well. I would have bought the rest of the shaft assembly but they were out of stock on the stepdown shafts, so I purchased one along with the 5/16" brass stuffing tube from Kintec. Thanks so much for mentioning that, its literally exact tips like that that the whole reason I made the thread here in the first place.

What compounds should I get for polishing the hardware? Ive never polioshed metal before, but I polish plastics and acrylic all the time with my computers' plumbing systems.

[Agitator]

The dummy turbine from RC Boat Company is NOT the correct pipe for the Bud. For the later boats that use the same hull as the T-6, they are correct, just depends on whether it is bell style, or straight pipe. For my T-4 I used actual 3" thin wall aluminum tubing, and a ton of polishing. For polishing all your hardware, and this is just how I do it, is to start with 320 wet/dry paper, wet with a little dish soap to start taking all the machine tooling mark out. When doing the skid fin, and rudder, you should do these on a flat, hard surface as you will be sharpening them as you clean them. Keep going using 320/400/600/1000 and then I use 'Blue Magic' metal polish cream for a final polish. When you have perfect resolution and it it looks like a mirror, you are done. Be careful, as the leading edge of the fin and the rudder 'should' be razor sharp. I'll put up some pics of these later. RC Boat Company now makes a turbine tube for the T-4 that I ordered, so I don't know yet how it will look when done for the T-6. Here are photos of the pipes. First is the RC Boat company bell tube on my 2010 U-96 Spirit of Qatar, next two are my T-4. The T-6 is the same, just not cut at such an extreme angle.

001.jpgparts 437.jpgparts 155.jpg

[nichismo]

Damn, do you have any full pictures of your SOQ? Ive always like that hydro as well. But I had been thinking of crafting my own turbine, it just seemed like something that could easily be done for far less than the 100$ its gonna take for me to get the RCboatcompany one. I really like the stabilizer kit they offer though, so well see for that one. What are the exact differences between the T-4, 5. and 6 anyway? ive always been curious, you seem like quite the hydro expert! Those boats look amazing, especially that twin wing.