DF pirate 35 build

[Luck as a Constant]

Well, I'm back in. Just bought a hull to start. No idea what I'll be using for hardware or electronics. I sold all my stuff last year to start fresh, so I need everything.

When the hull gets here I'll post some pics, but for now I'm looking for any input.
I really want to build a fast efficient boat that has good stamina. The plan is for 6s2p. That's about all I know at this point.
Also I do prefer a stinger drive to a strut. Any thoughts?
I've never done a boat this size so I do need some guidance on this one .



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[Make-a-Wake]

I'd go stinger, I'm still a big fan of the Castle 1717(45 x 85mm, 1580kv) on 6s2p, although other options would be a Leopard 4092(40 x 92mm, 1480 or 1730kv), a Neu 1527(40 x 102mm, 1500kv) or a TP4070(40 x 100mm, 1640kv) all on 6s2p of course. a T180 should handle it but a swordy 200+ amper would be nice.

[Luck as a Constant]

yeah i was looking at the xo1 motor there...
as far as the stinger goes, I've done monos with both a stinger and a strut. honestly, i didn't see any benefit to using the strut. in fact, all the strut did, was take up more space back there. ill probably go stinger, but it seems to be out of stock at ose.
other than ose and kintec, are there any other sources for hardware?

[Fluid]

What do you want for speed and run time? Running 6S is a good choice for efficiency, speed and run time as long as you don't go too wild with high speed.

Depending on on the desired speed a 40x82 to 40x92 motor with a Kv between 1200 and 1400 would work. Too many folks get hung up on high rpm when it usually means higher amp draw and not much more speed.

It is tough to beat the SpeedMaster .40-sized stingers and rudders. The problem with stingers is the lack of much adjustability. An example - last week a club member was having trouble with his new 6S mono, it was a bit unstable in the turns and had a bit of chine walk on the straights. He raised his strut by a bit over 1/16" and solved the problems. It is literally a different boat and is now an awesome handling oval racer. This kind of adjustment is usually tough with a stinger, often requiring remounting it higher or lower on the transom. But stingers do look a lot better than struts and once set up they are great. Plus a strut may be tough to fit on the Pirate's transom.

Whatever you decide, good luck with it. Should be a great boat!




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[Luck as a Constant]

thanks for the input jay \m/

speeds i would like in the high 50's hitting 60 if possible. but more so, i would like a fair amount of runtime and cooler temps, so i would be willing to sacrifice speed to get there. I'm just not sure what reasonable expectations are in regards to speed vs runtime...

as far as the stinger vs strut goes, i feel like i need a flooded chamber with a strut to get any up down movement. at least thats how i built my df26, causing motor placement to be kinda stuck. I'm really not sure where to put the motor on this thing. I've in the past always had them way up front. in any event, If i am to do a stinger, i would be mounting it up a few mm for the bottom. maybe even 1/4"? i think on my Titan 29 i had it up 4mm or so and that boat ran awesome. much nicer look too.

[Make-a-Wake]

I get right at 60mph with my 39" mono on 6s2p running the Castle 1717, stinger, and x548 on 6s2p......................never gets hot. Runs perfect. You can set it up to run low-mid 50's, that may be a better "zone" for that hull.....................but you know how we push 'em

[Luck as a Constant]

I get right at 60mph with my 39" mono on 6s2p running the Castle 1717, stinger, and x548 on 6s2p......................never gets hot. Runs perfect. You can set it up to run low-mid 50's, that may be a better "zone" for that hull.....................but you know how we push 'em

Castle motors are great aren't they? seriously, for the money they're awesome. never tried a TP.
Whats the difference between the x01 and the 1717 tho?

[Luck as a Constant]

has anyone tried these? http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-83022
they look glorious

[Make-a-Wake]

Nothing except the Car version is 1650kv, Your hull isnt as wide as mine and needs a prop in the 42-45mm range imo so a few more rpms wont hurt. I did mention a 4092 1480kv if you want a bit lower.

[Luck as a Constant]

Nothing except the Car version is 1650kv, Your hull isnt as wide as mine and needs a prop in the 42-45mm range imo so a few more rpms wont hurt. I did mention a 4092 1480kv if you want a bit lower.

thanks for the reply :yes way:

i did notice ose sells a cooling jacket for a 1717 and xo1 motors separately tho.... there must be a size difference?

[Make-a-Wake]

I dont think you need that much trim tab width, those will take up 5" of your transom as well...............these may be an option



http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80925

[srislash]

Yay, I am so down with this build. IMO XO-1 motor on 5s for sportin'. My 1580kv 1717 runs pretty good on 5s with 447 or so prop. I also run on 6s with same prop mind you.

I am running these tabs and only needs bit of them to level it out.
Guess I should add that I have the DF 35"

[Luck as a Constant]

I dont think you need that much trim tab width, those will take up 5" of your transom as well...............these may be an option



http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80925

or these sexy EDIT http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdt-502

[Make-a-Wake]

or these sexy EDIT http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdt-502

Whoa! some serious machinery there, freakin thick...................... the width is much more appropriate

I'm gonna look up your hull to check the width, just curious......

[Luck as a Constant]

i used these on my titan 29 and they worked quite well.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80070
titan is 10.5 wide
pirate is 10.25 wide

[tlandauer]

or these sexy EDIT http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdt-502

Whoa! some serious machinery there, freakin thick...................... the width is much more appropriate

I'm gonna look up your hull to check the width, just curious......

I used them with my MHZ LizardXtreme, love them. I think for looks you can't go wrong, I would not use them if I am racing. I think it has more drag.

DSCN2984_2444.jpg DSCN3002_2462.jpg

Does the Mean Machine look familiar?? You walked me thru with my build!

[Rocstar]

or these sexy EDIT http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdt-502

I used these on my Sniper. I really like these tabs.

Tabs.jpg

[Luck as a Constant]

I used these on my Sniper. I really like these tabs.

Tabs.jpg

would these be overkill for my boat?
as far as i can tell theyde be just about the rite size

[Luck as a Constant]

I used them with my MHZ LizardXtreme, love them. I think for looks you can't go wrong, I would not use them if I am racing. I think it has more drag.

DSCN2984_2444.jpg DSCN3002_2462.jpg

Does the Mean Machine look familiar?? You walked me thru with my build!

Thanks Tim for the input. they look killer....
nice mean machine :yesway:

[Luck as a Constant]

someone help me pick a rudder.
i would like the dual water pickups, but are they too big?
basically theres the speed master 40
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdr-010
the 1"
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdr-013
then the dual rudders, which come both tapered and straight blade
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=ros-spdr-011a

my question, do i want straight or tapered?
and since it appears the dual pickups rudders are inly 1/4' wider and .25 longer, will it rally make a difference?
thanks

[Make-a-Wake]

I always get one longer than I think i may need, easy to cut 'em down...........cant add to them. I like running longer rudders anyways, keeps it on a tight line and corners better imo

[flraptor07]

I use the Speedmaster dual pickup one on a lot of my builds and usually end up cutting it to length depending on what I put it on. You can get the center mount bracket for it too.

[Make-a-Wake]

If it were my boat I would get this:

http://offshoreelectrics.com/proddet...=ros-spdr-011a

[Luck as a Constant]

If it were my boat I would get this:

http://offshoreelectrics.com/proddet...=ros-spdr-011a

but why tapered over straight? I'm not sure what difference it makes...

[Luck as a Constant]

also, 4' or 5' of setback?
given I'm planning a speed master stinger, which measures 3.25, i figure the prop will add an extra inch. will lining the rudders front edge up with the prop be better than having the rudders leading edge behind the prop?

[Make-a-Wake]

I think if you are going longer like the one i linked, that tapered takes a bit of drag away........may be wrong. I like my rudders set back farther than most folks, but many, many fast, solid boats have run them with the trailing edge of the rudder even with the prop hub.

[flraptor07]

You want the leading edge of the rudder ahead of the prop usually try to go with trailing edge of rudder even with leading edge of prop, because you want the leading edge of the rudder in clean water. And with the rudder offset to the right side when you turn right on a oval race course it deflects the rudder wash away from the prop. This way the prop stays in clean water too.

[Luck as a Constant]

Ok thanks fellas


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[Luck as a Constant]

The hull should be here finally tomorrow. Cripes USPS takes 4 days to deliver a hull 20 miles away. Unreal...

So, I'm looking at the castle and nue motors ...
As far a nue goes... Is a 1521 not enough?
The 1527 would require what esc? Are the sf esc ok?
Which one would handle the 1527?
Same goes for the castle 1717 or x01 What esc would be good?
Thanks...,


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[Make-a-Wake]

The Neu 1521 is plenty enough. A 1527 is complete overkill in that hull. The 1521 is a bit Larger than a 4082 Leopard and more efficient, I would put it right there with a 4092 Leo powerwise. The 1577kv would be great for 6s2p and I would get a 200a+ ESC.